See more images in our Sights and Colors of Ensenada Photo Gallery here.


Dias de los Muertos figures, just one of the beautiful displays of local arts & crafts at Fausto Polanco. [Heidi saw the "no photos please" sign after she had taken a few, oops, sorry!] We've bought several gifts here and a tortilla warming basket for ourselves.

Though we'd originally planned to be in Ensenada for only 3-days, between weather delays and deciding to haul the boat out for some minor work, it's been almost 3 weeks now...If you've been following our blog at all, you will likely know that we've had several delays along the way. One of these days we may actually LEARN the lesson that the Universe keeps hitting us upside the head with: "Don't make plans! Just go with the flow..." Ok, ok, uncle! We are making the best of these delays and schedule changes, exploring the sights, and soaking up the COLORS in between working on boat projects.

We wouldn't want to stay in Ensenada too long--it's too cold for us (yes we're still wearing fleece and down jackets and smart wool shirts and socks... in Mexico, in January?!) but we are enjoying this town for all it has to offer while we are here.


The exterior of Fausto Polanco, formerly a hotel and municipal offices, now an amazing transformation into a local artisan and furniture shop. (http://www.faustopolanco.com.mx/Maya/). Check out the Mayan Collection of furniture on the website, FUN!

We've been getting our daily exercise by walking all over town, averaging 4-6 miles a day. We walk to the grocery store and produce market; we walk to get fish-tacos for lunch (with the peso being what it is today, lunch for two with drinks averages less than $4US total); we walk to get boat parts; we walk to get fresh tortillas every two days. Each time we head out, we try to take different streets, mostly avoiding the tourist areas and checking out the "real" Ensenada. Everywhere we walk, we take our cameras and stop to take photos along the way. Many of our photos end up in our Photo Gallery, not in the blog posts themselves, so make sure you check out the photo galleries that go along with each blog post for more photos and stories along the way.


We're in the PINK in Ensenada!

One of the things we needed to do as soon as we got to Mexico was to get a "Banda Ancha" (the Mexican version of a "my-fi wifi usb stick" to get internet on our laptops.) The Banda Ancha is only available to non-Mexicans, and currently costs about $30US for the USB stick, and another $24US for 3GB of data. You have to use that data up w/in 30-days (not a problem!) Once it runs out, you can go to any TelCel (Mexican phone/internet company) store, OR to any OXXO store (like 7-11 in the States), and re-charge your stick w/ another 3GB of data for $24US. 3GB is the most data you can purchase at one time. And believe us, 3GB doesn't last long when you're uploading/downloading photos for blogs or emails or Facebook. So we've taken to trying to do most of our Internet stuff from the Cruiser's Lounge at the marina, or an Internet Café (or Starbucks) where we can use their wifi for free with purchase of a beverage.

We initially planned to to meet up with Maryalice & Rick at the main TelCel office to purchase our Banda Ancha. Maryalice texted to say the line was an hour long and she would hold our place if we hurried, Rick bailed and went back to the boat. By the time we arrived, she was already up to the counter, and the back of the line was another hour long. As we went up to the counter to say hello, Maryalice asked the gal helping her if she could "ayuda mi amigos tambien?" (can you help my friends too?) She said sure, and so we jumped the Q and saved an hour in line feeling kind of bad about it, although we were still there for an hour getting our two computers set up.

We said we only wanted one USB stick to share between our two computers. "No es possible, necisitan dos." (That's not possible, you need two.) Ok, fine. Although we're glad we can both be online at the same time instead of sharing one USB stick back and forth (and we now have 6GB total instead of 3GB!), we're pretty sure we were taken...gringo-scam...as we've met other people who share one USB stick between two computers just fine. Huh...

Unfortunately with Mercury in Retrograde and all, Heidi's Macbook Pro started acting up right after TelCel installed their software on her computer, and she couldn't start it up. After spending 2 hours on the phone to Apple Tech Support, they recommended heading to the nearest Apple Store because her Mac was still under warranty. Nearest Apple Store?? Why that would be in Chula Vista, USA of course...


View of the coast between Ensenada and Tijuana.

Two Trips to the Dark Side...a.k.a. USA.


The Tijuana Boarder crossing with cars going into the US. 18,000 people a day (mostly day laborers) cross this border, making it the busiest border crossing in the world.

We never imagined we'd be heading back to the US only a few days after leaving there. Luckily we were able to catch a ride up with our new friends Don & Lisa on Windcharmer. It's about a 90-minute drive up the coast, and then about 1hr line at the border via car. If you have to walk across, it's a whole different story.


On our way to the Apple Store for the first time... Before our "Haircuts by Ali".

Lisa kindly dropped us off at the Apple Store where Apple messed up on Heidi's scheduled appointment and we waited for 4 more hours at a suburban shopping mall (similar to U. Village in Seattle.) NOT where we wanted to be hanging out. But it helped us practice our PATIENCE...and acceptance. And we bided our time getting two great haircuts from Ali, which we both badly needed. Kirk was afraid Heidi was going to take the scissors to him soon!


Lookin' Sharp after our "haircuts by Ali". This hair cutting experience was MUCH less traumatic than the one in Monterey.

Apple was only a little help, as the Mexican Wifi seemed to be the problem, but we couldn't test that theory out w/o being in Mexico, DOH! So we were sent home with "a few things to try." A Lyft ride back to the boarder, a quick walk across and "Bienvienedos", wahoo we got the green light!, and we were on the 90-minute first-class ABC Bus back to Ensenada complete with TV screens at our seat (playing the Big Wedding, dubbed in Español!) all for only $11. Twelve-hours round-trip, the gatos were happy to see us!


Anytime, night or day, this border is hopping ~ fellow cruisers who live in Ensenada just had an hour wait to cross at 0400!

Heidi's Mac worked great for about 5 days... then refused to turn on at all. Awesome! Another trip back to the darkside to Apple was in order. This time with no rides available, we took the first-class ABC Bus back up to Tijuana. We had been warned that it could take 4+ hours to cross the border on foot. For real? We couldn't imagine until we got there... could the pedestrian line have been a ½-mile long, or longer?! And no signage to direct anyone along the way...


Plenty to buy while you're waiting in line at the border to walk back into the USA.

We waited in line for about 30 minutes before a Mexican guy walked up and asked us if we wanted to go to the front of the line? Kirk wondered what kind of scam this was? Heidi figured not a scam, just an opportunity with a little baksheesh? So off we went following this guy through an unmarked door, down an alley and into a 15-passenger van. We weren't scared. For $6 each, we got to ride in the van with a bunch of other Gringos, and a few day-workers up to the front of the border-crossing line. Where we then sat and waited in the van for another 1.5 hours.


Hour 2 of our 3-hour wait to cross from Mexico back into US.

Suddenly the van doors opened and they motioned for everyone OUT, and run for the border. And RUN we did! Only to get into another line, where we waited for another hour. Fortuitously, we met our new friend Miles in the Van. Miles had been in TJ for some dental work, paying about 20% of what it would have cost in the states, and his dentist even graduated from Harvard! Once we finally got across the border (and through the Spanish inquisition from the US customs as to why we were returning to our home country with EMPTY backpacks!?) Miles offered us a ride to the Apple Store. You'll hear more about our new friend Miles in our next post...

This time they wiped Heidi's computer clean and re-installed the OS, leaving her to restore her files from Time Machine when we got back home. We were in and out of there much more quickly. Also took advantage of being back in the USA, by stocking up at Trader Joe's, Home Depot, PetCo, and REI. Now our backpacks were FULL.

Another Lyft ride back to the boarder, another quick walk across, "Bienvienedos a Mexico!" and another green light! We were SO GLAD to be back to the comfortable-pace of Mexican life. Another 90-minute first-class ABC Bus back to Ensenada (this time playing Downton Abby, dubbed in Español, SO FUNNY! Who knew that Mary and the Dowager Duchess knew Español so well? They do a remarkable job at matching character voices.)


Mariachi street band taking a break against a perfect store-wall backdrop.

Today we hauled Due West out for a quick bottom job, and our next post will update you on the ins-and-outs of getting boat parts in Mexico, hauling out (so far much better than anticipated!), and all the projects we've gotten done in Ensenada.

In the meantime please check out our Sights and Colors of Ensenada Photo Gallery to see lots more pix of how we've been spending our free-time, and what Tosh & Tikka have been up to!


Who us? We never get up on the galley counter when you're not home...Said Tosh & Tikka, never!

We are still a bit internet/email challenged so texting and phone calls are the best way to be in touch for now. Our US cell plan covers Mexico at no extra charge, so text or call any time! We may be slow to reply to email, but we do get them, and so much appreciate all of you keeping in touch!


It might not be warm enough, but the sunsets are still beautiful here!