Photo: The Espíritu Islands are the real gem of the Sea of Cortez...

La Paz is a nice place, there's no doubting that, the harbour sits forty miles or so up on the east side of Mexico's Baja Peninsular and is considered by most sailors to be the gateway to the fabled Sea of Cortez.

This eight hundred miles of smooth sea that's landlocked on three sides had been the subject of much conversation between ourselves and American sailors ever since we'd sailed our way south from Alaska, eventually reaching the San Juan Islands to the north of Seattle's Puget Sound in Washington State. In the truly sublime North American harbours of Port Townsend and Friday Harbor every sailor it seemed had spent some time or other in Mexico's most well-known sailing destination.

As we then made our way south down the US Pacific west coast, their enthusiasm and perfunctory advice grew in intensity, we were not under any circumstances to miss out the Sea of Cortez...

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Read more about the mishaps and mayhem of Nellie, The Ship's Cat