Getting the tide right was key to the next leg. Ideally we wanted the significant stream along the south of the Isle of Man to be running west, but much more critical was to arrive at the mouth of Strangford Lough, which is famous for its vicious tides, at the beginning of the flood. We slipped at 0915, and in a flat calm motored out past the “chasms” cliffs, around the Calf of Man and inside Chicken Rock and its towering lighthouse, where we set a course of 310º. We saw a small whale or perhaps a white-sided Atlantic dolphin, followed after a while by a larger whale, probably a minke, which surfaced and blew several times. Later on, we spotted a few harbour porpoises.

A gentle breeze of around 8 knots allowed us to cut the engine at 1430; we were in no hurry. In fact we arrived abeam of “Bar Pladdy” south cardinal buoy an hour or so too early, so we switched on the engine and plugged in against a swirling 3-knot tide for 4 miles to the narrows off Portaferry, by which time it was slack. We anchored in Audley’s Roads in 11m depth (at high water), putting out a generous 50m of chain because we weren’t sure how strong the tide would run. It was such a lovely evening that we had supper in the cockpit, which was followed by a very peaceful night.

There was a grand house on the shore which, after a bit of research on the internet, we realised was Castle Ward, a National Trust property. It is a little quirky because the front half, both externally and internally, is built in the Classical style, to the first Viscount’s taste, whilst the rear is in the Gothic style preferred by his wife. We took the dinghy to the quay next morning and went for a walk along the coastal path while we waited for the property to open. We looked around the extensive grounds first, which was followed by a very amusing tour inside the house by a guide. It was a shame, though, that we had to leave before the end because we were anxious to catch the tide.

We left at 1330, bang-on slack water according to the almanac. Within minutes the tide was swirling to seawards at about 5 knots, popping us out at the safe water buoy half an hour later, a third of the time it took to come in. I wouldn’t fancy trying this with a strong onshore wind. Today, the sea was glassy calm, and we began to wonder whether the Irish Sea has ever been so benign for so long! We had 40 miles to cover, so were forced to motor for most of the way, eventually arriving at the Abercorn Basin marina in Belfast at 2200, just as the sun was setting.

The marina is right alongside the Titanic “Experience” building. Bizarre, is it not, that the subject of Belfast’s most popular tourist attraction is a tragic sinking? We felt we had to do it nevertheless, and left with the impression that most of the visitors were celebrating the movie rather than commemorating the real lives that were lost. In many ways, the liner’s Cherbourg tender SS Nomadic and the WW 1 light cruiser HMS Caroline were the more interesting exhibits. Next morning we took a guided walking tour of the City centre, and in the afternoon a bus ride with commentary around the periphery, including the Falls and Shankill Roads. We were frankly shocked that the city is still divided by the so-called Peacewall and decorated with the murals of balaclava-wearing men toting guns; and that the police use armoured vehicles for their every-day patrols and most schools are still segregated between Catholics and Protestants.

On our way back down the Lough, we encountered a fleet of keelboats heading towards us which, much to our surprise, turned out to be RS Elites competing in their national championships. We recognised several of the crews as friends from Hayling Island Sailing Club, who were equally surprised to see us! We stopped at Bangor marina for the night: a convenient place to buy fuel and provisions. It also proved to be a pleasant town to explore on foot, especially the walled garden of the castle and the promenade past the Royal Ulster Yacht Club. It was another amazingly sunny day; people kept telling us that it’s not normally like this!