This cruising lifestyle provides many varied and special opportunities and there is nothing better than a long stay in a new country. We are just loving NZ, and this new experience of being able to spend time with friends from home who are now Kiwi locals has been a real highlight for us both. As previously blogged, our friend Annie is one such Northland resident. She's a Kiwi by birth and on returning to her home country chose the Bay of Islands for her next life phase. We've been really enjoying having the opportunity to hang out and learn a little more about "her backyard" of Kerikeri which is a mere 30 minutes away from us in Opua.

Kerikeri (pronounced Kirry Kirry) is a vibrant country town, known for its art, craft and culture; for its agricultural produce and farmers markets; for great wine (the first grapes grown in NZ were planted in the region in 1819); and for its great food and boutique foodie products. It's a popular tourist destination "So Nice They Named It Twice" and is home to both the oldest wooden structure in NZ (the Old Mission House) and the oldest stone building (the Stone Store). Both properties sit at the ford of the Kerikeri River under the eye of the ancient Kororipo Pa. Well before the arrival of European settlers, the region was home to the Ngāpuhi people and the strategically located Kororipo Pa offers a extensive view of the river and the cove. The Iwi were skilled in agriculture and managed extensive food gardens in their large kainga; the arriving Europeans (Pākehā) mistakenly believing that Kerikeri meant "dig dig" although modern day consensus is that it means "bubbling or churning waters". Samuel Marsden, the first Anglican missionary to Northland, traded 48 axes for a parcel of land on the riverbank which became the site of the Mission House, the Stone Store, and a combined chapel and school. The remnants of a thriving kitchen garden and orchard still exist at the rivers edge, including the "oldest pear tree" in NZ. Along with Annie, we spent several hours exploring what the missionaries called Gloucester Town. Being conscious of the popularity of the area with cruise ship tours, we arrived at the Stone Store as they opened at 0900. This 185-year-old building has been a trading post since inception and today sells a variety of unique household goods, local produce and souvenirs. It also houses a very interesting small museum upstairs, well worth the hour or so to go through.

From the Stone Store, we walked out across the footbridge to view the river and the ford below. The footbridge was erected to replace the post WW1 stone bridge, which was lost after flooding in the 1980's - initially a controversial decision by the Far North Region Council but now a very much-loved thoroughfare. We then meandered through the old mission grounds, trying to identify the many gnarled fruit trees - so many heritage varieties, including quince and the good old Jonathon apple. There were breeding pairs of Pūkeko (the NZ purple swamp hen), with their broods of three and four chicks in tow, casually feeding along the waters edge and a large paddling of Pāteke (brown teal ducks) enjoying the cool of the river.

Passing by the old pear tree, aptly located in the grounds of the Pear Tree Restaurant and Bar, we headed up to Hongi Hika Recreation Reserve and the Pa. The start of the walking track, which follows the original Maori pathway, is marked by large warrior totems or Waharoa. After passing through these, the track takes you through towering gums and regenerating native forest, to the top of the Pa. The viewing platform situated there provides an amazing panorama plus several tourist boards with great information on the history of the original settlement.

History lesson over, we treated ourselves to lunch at the Marsden Estate Winery - a small boutique vineyard located on the outskirts of town with a stunning lakeside eatery. After completing the obligatory wine tasting - can highly recommend their sparkling rose - we enjoyed a superb lunch out on the restaurant deck. Everything on the menu is locally sourced and beautifully prepared and we were all wowed with our meals of choice. Definitely another "must go again" location for us!

There are several great wineries in Kerikeri and seeing as we were on a vineyard roll, we headed across to Ake Ake, a certified organic vineyard, to try their award-winning Pinot Gris and Sav Blanc - both excellent! Our last stop was at the very small Kapiro vineyard, where we completed a very entertaining tasting with the owner Kathy. This tiny boutique winery is situated amongst several kiwifruit orchards and produces small batch vintages of Pinot Gris, Rose and Syrah (and a very delicious Syrah Jelly, perfect with a cheese board). Another great day in Northland with a good mate!