01 June 2016 at 0515
We leave in light winds from Gallipoli in company with Sassoon, destination to the south side of the Gulf of Toranto and down the west coast of Italy to a marina in Crotone being a cruise of 70 miles.
Accompanied by, always welcome dolphins
Passing several Gas platforms just of Crotone.
Do not know if you can make out all of the coastal power windmills, thousands of them! Visual pollution!
We quickly ran out of wind and discovered that Sassoon can motor faster than us by about a knot, grrr! However, we arrived at 1600 just after them and found a really good berth amongst 4 other other visiting yachts.
So then it was off to visit this town that was once, long ago, famous for its beautiful woman, its art and it's architecture. It all fall into ruins so that just one column remains of its temple and there is little left to reflect it's ancient fame. It was all very friendly and welcoming and weI enjoyed being there immensely. It turned out to be a good stop for fresh food and a good rest.
03 June 2016 1300 Departed Crotone still sailing south with Sassoon, Destination Rocella Ionica a distance of 65 miles. 1645 We anchored Elixir off a headland Le Castello Bay at dusk and proceeded to not enjoy the swell that was running. 0030 Up anchor and head off in the pitch black as it had got way too uncomfortable and the wind was building ominously. It was not long before we had fully reefed our mainsail and had wound our genoa into just a small triangle as by now it was blowing 40 knots. We barrelled through the night and by the time dawn broke the wind had eased considerably and Jenny expressed pride in the fact that just the two of us had handled the stormy conditions well but she was however glad it was behind us now. 0915 Entered the marina at Rochella Ionica to find Sassoon there also. This marina offers free bicycles, just a donation expected, so Jenny and I enjoyed visiting the town and having coffee at a sidewalk café. Big discussion with Sasoon as we wanted to go to Malta but they had a marina booked on the east side of Sicily so that they could fly back to Australia for a month so we wished them well and said our goodbyes.
05 June 2016 We sail for the west coast of Sicily and watch Sassoon getting smaller and smaller and finally disappear over the horizon on their way westward to the Straits of Messina. We on the other hand faced a 90 mile sail to Riposto which is close to Mount Etna. 1700 Moored in Marina dell Etna after a tiring but exhilarating day of fast easy sailing.
06 June 2016 Plan reassessment, we discovered that the refugee problems south of us around the base of Sicily had become so great that it would be most unlikely that we would be able to sail through those waters without coming across real desperate people that we would not be in any position to help. The horror stories circulating around the Marina were such that we decided to abandon our plan to sail to Malta and instead go through the Straights of Messina and then sail North up the East coast of Italy. So as easy as that we changed our itinerary and destiny for the next few months.
Just Leaving dell Etna
We anchored in this Bay overnight with several other yachts and superyachts
There is always some R & M to be attended to even in these magical spots
Etna is well behind us now.
Entering the Straits of Messina between Italy and Sicily
07 June 2016 0500 We Leave Del Etna and attempt to sail north west for Messina but hit strong head wind and choppy seas meaning that we were only making 3.5knots. So anchored for shelter close to the shoreline in Taormina Bay along with other cruising yachts and three large superyachts. Next morning we had good wind so we left for Reggio Di Calabria in Messina arriving after a trying but reasonably quick passage at 1030. Reggio Di Calabria is located at the start of the Straights but is quite exposed and one must make sure that the yacht is very secure before leaving it to go to shops. The shopping however was as good as we have had anywhere so we took the opportunity to fully stock up on both essential stores and happy hour delights.
09 June 2016 0815 Departed marina after filling with water but no fuel was available as the fuel dock was out of service. We then passed through the narrow Straits of Messina with all its underlying strong currents and vicious cross winds without seeing any whirlpools or mythical multi-headed monsters as feared by seamen over the centuries. So without ceremony we departed the Ionian Sea and entered the Tyrrhenian Sea, long famous for its wind changes and vicious sudden storms. We turned North into a foul current and a mild sea that appeared empty of yachts except for us. We sailed north without incident until 1615 whereupon moored in a lovely little marina called Tropia. Just in time to enjoy Happy Hour.
10 June 2016 0600 Departed northward again to anchor at 2115 in a bay by Cape Palinuro.
We got a bit of a fright at that time as we passed into what appeared to be a whole lot of very small mooring buoys all around us, we did not see them until we were right among them, well then the mooring buoys took fright ad flew off, it was of course a flock of seabirds that had stationed themselves there for the night. We found that we did however have nylon wrapped around our prop that was slowing our motor speed considerably. Ted went over the side for a dive the next morning and cleared the nylon after struggling with a sharp knife for some time.
11 June 2016 1015 Motored out of the bay that was surrounded by high cliffs and with the wind at just 2.5kts we resigned ourselves to a day of the drumming of the Volvo as it pushed us through the water at 6knts. It was a very relaxing and beautiful trip close inshore all the way up the Italian coast and it was not until 2000 that we entered the marina at Salerno. A very tired couple of puppies I must say. The marina was a tacky affair of plastic pontoons that joggled wildly even when just walking along them. It was also situated right in the main shipping harbour so was constantly subjected to wash and waves from passing vessels, however, it appeared safe enough, if a tad uncomfortable. Over the next few days we visited Pompeii and Naples by train, it seemed that it would be easier to get there using such transport that it would be by going by yacht and indeed it was.