We spent one night in Laguna Grande which is spectacularly beautiful. The stars are so brilliant the constellations jump right out at you. Feeling secure that the boat was performing satisfactorily, we left around 4 a.m. for Tortuga. It was a calm day on the sea with little wind so we kept the motor running.

Tortuga is a flat, dry, scubby island with little vegetation. It's greatest attractions are the beaches, crystal clear water and snorkeling. At our first anchorage there was an airstrip, one lane wide, of packed sand. We're told locals from Caracas use it mostly on weekends. Other than a Coast Guard station and a few ramshackled fishing huts it was quite deserted.