Tales of Enchantment

also known as "Michelle and Vern's Excellent Adventure"

19 January 2021
11 November 2020 | Phuket, Thailand
08 August 2020
01 March 2020
17 November 2019
13 November 2018
29 August 2018
12 January 2016
27 December 2015
15 September 2015
25 June 2015
26 March 2014

Thailand bits and pieces

07 May 2021
Vern Noren
We have been "stuck" in Thailand for just over a year now. There are worse places to be stuck for sure. Phuket went 3 months without a new local case of Covid, then suddenly went from zero to 250+ in a matter of two weeks. The rest of the country is under severe restrictions in an effort to contain it again. Officials believe it all started with large groups of partying youths and other "socially entitled" in and around Bangkok. I just read the Thailand ranks 124th in the world for vaccine distribution.
It has not been boring. Since our last update several months ago we have become better friends with many of the locals, had $6,000 in damage to our boat, had our diesel engine commit suicide, and revisited my hippy days.
The photo gallery has many new pictures with no rhyme or reason to the assortment.

North Thailand

19 January 2021
Vern Noren
We took a 3 week trip to N Thailand to a region I have never been to before. Michelle toured parts of it several years ago when our son & grandson came to visit. The region is mountainous and mostly remote with many small towns and villages.

Many different ethnic groups live in the highlands, many with their own languages, customs, and beliefs. The weather is pleasantly cooler than down in Phuket, and things are a lot cheaper. Our most expensive hotel was $25/ night, most under $20, and the cheapest was $7/night with a balcony on the river.

Thailand Tales

11 November 2020 | Phuket, Thailand
Vern Noren
It has been a while since our last update and a lot has happened. We returned to the marina for a month to have some boat work completed and repairs made, then returned to Phi Phi for two weeks. There was a big festival starting in Phuket which we did not want to miss so we sailed back to Chalong Harbor and anchored for a week.
We were in a gray area with immigration, we never got visa’s when we arrived last March, just crew papers that said we could stay legally for 30 day, NO renewal, No possibility to get visa’s. We spent two months talking to immigration officials, visa agent’s, other cruisers, with no solutions. Complicating the situation the harbor masters were instructed not to clear out any yachts to leave the country until borders opened up. So one agency says you cannot stay, another says your boat/home cannot leave. Immigration policy changes every few weeks here so everyone remains confused. Eventually it got sorted out after many, many trips to immigration. Every 30 days we have to return to the main office and they will stamp us in for another 30 days until borders open, which could be mid 2021, no one knows. At least our stress is greatly reduced.
To make things interesting the following is how we spent the second night in Chalong.

After living on board 16 years, and cruising full time the last 11 years we had a new first. We have been anchored in Chalong Bay, Thailand for the last few days. Big anchor, 200 ft chain on a mostly mud bottom, 10-1 scope. We always back down at full throttle and our reversing prop give us almost full thrust. Around midnight, as another of many short squalls barreled through the anchorage Michelle went out to check wind speed and our position. All good. Ten minutes later the wind picked up again and when she checked this time we were less than 10 meters from a catamaran that used to be 100+ meters away.
For the first time ever we had dragged our anchor but this was not the time to celebrate. I took the wheel as she tried to get the anchor up. The chain jumped out of the bow roller toward the middle so now she is pulling it up across the teak front lip. As I struggled to gain some control and keep us off the other boat the anchor winch breaker kept tripping from the strain of the pull. Too noisy from the howling wind and rain communication was impossible and I could only guess which direction the chain was leading. Complicating the situation was the full awnings we had up. They hindered visibility forward and acted like sails, pushing us around with great force.
We finally got the anchor up and headed down wind behind all the other boats and dropped all 250 feet of chain, the 55lb Delta anchor, large snubber, and a prayer. We wrestled the awnings down, the wind dropped to about 20 kts, and we were happy again.
In hindsight I think the new awnings were the main factor in our dragging since it had never happened before and we have used this anchorage many times.
When we finally settled back down to finish a movie we had been watching my wife gave me a kiss and said we did that whole thing without yelling at each other, like that has ever happened.
Start to finish of our adventure was one hour. Since we did not damage anyone else, worked together smoothly, it was all sort of fun in a demented kind of way.

Still alive after Covid

08 August 2020
Vern Noren
After a long period of laziness I am updating our blog. The short story is about our Covid challenge. In mid March we sailed 200 miles across the Mallaca Straits and Andaman Sea to Northern Sumatra. Our intention was to join a group of other cruisers for an organized rally down the West coast. The day the rally officially began the Mayor of Sabang , our starting point, said he did not want us there because of the Covid scare. The next day there were guards at the port gates to keep us in. The following day the organizer told us the next rally stop told him not to come, and the one after that was still deciding.
Things were going downhill so we decided to drop out and went through formalities to clear out of Indonesia. Our new plan was to get to Langkawi, Malaysia as quickly as we could, 200 miles away. By the time we finished preparing to leave, Malaysia announced the closing of all borders. Our only other option was Phuket, Thailand, also 200 miles away. We were just hoping they would still be open. Thailand closed it's borders a week after we arrived. A week after that Phuket shut down the airport and were shutting down movement between provinces, with highway check points to assure compliance. Along with other shut downs of pretty much every thing.
We decided to go into a marina we have stayed at before so we would have easy access to a grocery store, boat supplies, ability to walk on land, plus see a few friends again. Shortly after that the marinas were banning all new arrivals. We were very lucky to make the right decisions. We know of many other boats that were stuck in anchorages and not allowed ashore. Arrangements were made to bring them food and supplies. The boats that continued with the rally were chased out of many harbors by police boats and scared locals. They were rumored to be carriers and few towns were willing to let them stop. Cruisers all over this part of the world were at sea when borders were closed. One family friend of ours has been stuck on their boat in Sri Lanka for 4 months now. Several other couples went up the Red Sea to the Med and were never allowed off their boat the whole passage, two months. Then a 14 day quarantine in the Med.

So any way, we are good. We spent 4 months in the marina which killed our budget. It is very expensive but at least we had unlimited fresh water and electricity. We got spoiled by being able to run our air conditioner. After the first 8 weeks the authorities started open things up slowly so we could move around Phuket. Despite the cost we were there long enough to make some new friends and felt like we were becoming a part of the local community.

Thailand did a great job containing the virus. Stay at home orders, mandatory masks, crack downs on big groups, contact tracing, temperature checks every where, and still continue. Alcohol was banned for 2 months. Thailand has not had any new local cases in 9 weeks. They just tested several thousand people would attended a crowded event, most not wearing masks despite the law. None of those tested had the virus.

Hey Ann Rowe Pramis, I can't find your email address

Check out the 2 new video links in FAVOITES section

02 March 2020
Vern Noren

We are still alive

01 March 2020
Vern Noren
Not much has happened since our last post but we thought we should update our blog anyway. Next weekend we start a new adventure. It starts with a sail from Phuket, Thailand to Sabang, Indonesia. We will sail down the Western coast of Sumatra, then up to Borneo. After a few months in Borneo we will join a small group to sail to NE Indonesia and work our way back to the S Pacific. We should each the Solomon Islands around Feb of next year.
Vessel Name: Enchantment
Vessel Make/Model: Island Packet 40
Hailing Port: Chicago
Crew: Vern & Michelle
Vern, originally from Chicago, has lived in New Orleans and the Nashville, Tn area. I have been sailing for almost 40 years, have logged over 15,000 offshore miles and hold a 100 ton masters license. I also work as a critical care nurse. [...]
Extra: We are currently finishing with upgrades and improvements to Enchantment in preparation for a 3-4 year cruise from Baltimore to New Zealand. Our cruising kitty will be fully funded and our departure date is set for Oct 2010 with a transit of the Panama Canal late February 2011
Enchantment's Photos - The Marquesas
Photos 1 to 49 of 49 | Main
First fish we landed,  a Mahi 4 feet long.
First landfall after 27 days at sea, Hiva Oha
We took an all day tour of the island which is beautiful.  Most natives fish for personal consumption but will sell to cruisers if they have enough.
The women still weave palm fronds together for roofs and walls.
Picture postcard perfect.
The coasts are rugged volcanic remnants
The sacred areas are where religious ceremonies were performed, the most sacred forbidden to women.  The Tiki’s were carved after a prominent person died to keep his spirit in the village.  If it was a chief, medicine man, or famous warrior the body would be left under a thatch roof for 6~9 months until it was mummified.  It was then placed in a ceremonial canoe and hidden in a cave for protection from raiders.
The largest Tiki in the Marquesas at 2 meters tall.
Ceremonial areas like this were open to all villagers.  The more important you were the higher up your sitting platform was
The smiling Tiki.  They know this was a female Tiki because it shows a tattoo on her chin,  traditional practice for the females.
When a commoner dies their skull was placed inside a sacred Banyan tree.  The rest of the bones were used for carving jewelry or weapons.
This rugged peak still houses several tombs of deceased important villagers.  The walls are almost straight up, a very difficult task to bury your dead here.
This artist uses modern tools on shells and cow bones to carve intricate jewelry.
Heading into Hana Vave on the island of Fatu Hiva,  the first island to 	be iscovered by the Europeans.  Many proclaim this to be one of the most beautiful anchorages in the world!!
Hana Vave anchorage
Hana Vave anchorage,  surrounded by tall peaks.
The village, population about 150.
The landscape is truly spectacular in its raw beauty
The churches in other countries are always interesting to visit.  On Hiva Oha the smaLL village churchs only gets a visit from a priest once or twice a year.  The rest of the time a villager will lead the worship service
Local craftsmen carve most of the church alters and stations using local woods.
Michelle must get in every waterfall pool we find
Copra production (dried coconut) is a common way to earn a few 	dollars extra.
Tapa cloth,  made by pounding either breadfruit tree or mulberry tree bark into a cloth like product.  This was how the early natives made what little clothes they wore.  Fatu Hiva is the only island in French Polynesia where Tapa cloth is still made.
This is the woman who made the items above.  Her daughter and son are wood carvers.
The coast of Fatu Hiva is rugged,  here a tunnel has been eroded through the lava wall.
Looking down at Baie Taiohie on the island of Nuku Hiva,  the administrative capital of the Marquesas.  Population @ 2000.
The community  had a benefit for the school with traditional music and dancing.  The younger kids were fun to watch even if they were more goof balls than dancers.  The older girls were very skilled.
The early Marquesan’s adorned their bodies with tattoos and perfected the art.  Even today all the men and women we saw have tattoos.  	Traditionally the first tattoo was received when the boy or girl reached 	the age of puberty.
Our guide told us that  all the traditional tattoos have significance and tell a story,  or honor the gods for good luck.  The upper part of his tattoo symbolized his marriage and the joining together of man and women.  This brings new life and the lower part symbolizes the birth of his son and daughter.  We never saw any “American” tattoos like 	devils, eagles, ships,  girly stuff.  We were never much for tattoos but they look natural on the Marquesan’s.  If you are going to get a tattoo you would want to get one here,  where they invented it.  I resisted the temptation  but many of our cruiser friends did not,  men and women alike.
Controller Bay, Nuku Hiva
Taipavai Valley and village.  In 1842 Herman Melville (Moby Dick) jumped off a whaling ship in Baie Taiohie and escaped to here.  The native cannibals kept him as their “guest” for several months before he escaped.  Here wrote a book about his adventures called 	Typee (his spelling)
Typee Valley
Looking out toward the anchorage.
It is a tough life
In Daniels Bay is a trail that takes you to the second tallest waterfall in the world, 2000 feet tall.  It is a 2 ½ hour walk each way and worth it.  At the trail head we passed this small village with 4 or 5 houses, 	and one telephone booth, and no roads in or out.  I’m not even sure if they had electricity.  The family at the first house offers a lunch of traditional dishes for $10.  They will also sell you fresh fruits at very 	cheap prices compared to in town.  Give them you order and when you finish your hike they will have it waiting.  We bought so much the husband delivered it to our boat for us.
Onward to the falls
We had to cross the river 4 times
Almost there
Sorry for the glare in the photo, I was shooting into the sun,  but you can see how tall it is.
We were lucky.  It is the dry season and the last 2 groups that went said there was no water coming over the falls.  We swam around to the base of the falls and actually saw the flow increase while we watched.
Leaning basic basket weaving while waiting for lunch
Inside view if their home,  very similar to another home we went into.  Simple, basic,  really all you need.
Lunch with our friends Jens & Evelyn, left,  and Tom & Kim at the far end.  Lunch was fresh water shrimp cooked in coconut milk, coconut bread, bread fruit,  a bread fruit pudding, several types of bananas cook In various ways, fruit salad, salad of native greens, fruit juice, and a few things I’ve forgotten.