Tales of Enchantment

also known as "Michelle and Vern's Excellent Adventure"

03 July 2023
17 June 2022
19 January 2021
11 November 2020 | Phuket, Thailand
08 August 2020
01 March 2020
17 November 2019
13 November 2018
29 August 2018
12 January 2016
27 December 2015
15 September 2015

03 July 2023
Vern Noren
We had been in Phuket,Thailand for 3 years after Covid began. We had been there several times before and now it feels more like home than any where else. But it was time to continue our cruising. Our plan was to join a group of boats sailing across Borneo, Indonesia and S to Australia. We decided to do a few things we had never got around to doing before we left. We had even considered retiring in Thailand but that would come later. This post is a random collection of photos from our last several weeks in Thailand.

Junkyard Theater.....Dedicated to Khun Poom

30 November 2022
Vern Noren
Junkyard Theater has a Cabaret dinner show every Saturday. The theater is behind the Grind Café which is almost completely hidden by bamboo and trees. Ten minutes from the marina, Michelle and I had driven past hundreds of times and never noticed it. A Facebook ad led us to make a reservation to see the show. It was awesome. At the end a woman came by our table and asked how we liked the show. Turns out her and her husband, and son are the owners of the theater. We talked for an hour and we were invited to meet her husband at lunch during the week. John, Judy, and I are all of similar age and experiences and we hit it off right away and become friends.

They moved from Australia to Bangkok 30 years ago and then here to Phuket 20 yrs ago. John has a commercial arts degree and under the theater area is his factory. He has many international clients of the 5 star hotel variety, with current projects in London, Bangkok, and the Maldives.

He opened up this theater a year ago when he realized that that were many talented performers on the island that were out of work due to Covid. He decided to hire a few to entertain at the restaurant which has since grown into a full theater group with about 25 performers and 15-20 support personnel. Lighting, sound, backstage hands, seamstress, stage manager, choreographer, etc.
The Underwoods are very generous with their success. The factory and restaurant workers get free lunches, many live free in various rooms scattered around the huge old building. The Underwoods have given financial support to employees with overwhelming medical bills and other needs. They are very warm and welcoming to everyone and if you are their friend you have an open invitation to "come anytime, just show up".

I came to the shows and rehearsal for a few months just to watch the dancers, they are sooo good. The break dancers are officially the Andaman Crew who have been in several international competitions and won a few trophies. The girls are just pretty to watch :-}.

Now for those that don't know me all that well I have always had a fear of public speaking. I was so nervous about getting up in front of people and speaking I would rather cut my hand off. Then came the John. He first encouraged me just to walk across the stage during one of the bigger street scenes. He wanted more people walking around like the real life Bangla Road. Ok, I can do that, just don't run. So now, 7 months later I am in 2 skits at Junkyard, and 4 spots at the Marriott. Except for Mango Massage I don't really have any speaking parts, which is fine with me. There are many I could take but I am happy with what I do, although I am tempted. John has offered many times to pay me but my parts are mostly trivial and I told him I am retired don't want a job. And Michelle said She is the only boss I am allowed to have!!

Still alive in Phuket

17 June 2022
Vern Noren
I just realized it has been a year since our last post. We are still in Phuket and not a lot new and exciting to report. The borders in Malaysia and Indonesia are open again so we will be leaving before the end of the year. Unless more unexpected things happen. We have said goodbye to friends and left Phuket for the last time four times now. Maybe number five will be more successful for us. We like Phuket a lot and have made many friends but it is time to move on.
I have added some photo’s we have collected over the past year. We hope you enjoy looking.

Thailand bits and pieces

07 May 2021
Vern Noren
We have been "stuck" in Thailand for just over a year now. There are worse places to be stuck for sure. Phuket went 3 months without a new local case of Covid, then suddenly went from zero to 250+ in a matter of two weeks. The rest of the country is under severe restrictions in an effort to contain it again. Officials believe it all started with large groups of partying youths and other "socially entitled" in and around Bangkok. I just read the Thailand ranks 124th in the world for vaccine distribution.
It has not been boring. Since our last update several months ago we have become better friends with many of the locals, had $6,000 in damage to our boat, had our diesel engine commit suicide, and revisited my hippy days.
The photo gallery has many new pictures with no rhyme or reason to the assortment.

North Thailand

19 January 2021
Vern Noren
We took a 3 week trip to N Thailand to a region I have never been to before. Michelle toured parts of it several years ago when our son & grandson came to visit. The region is mountainous and mostly remote with many small towns and villages.

Many different ethnic groups live in the highlands, many with their own languages, customs, and beliefs. The weather is pleasantly cooler than down in Phuket, and things are a lot cheaper. Our most expensive hotel was $25/ night, most under $20, and the cheapest was $7/night with a balcony on the river.

Thailand Tales

11 November 2020 | Phuket, Thailand
Vern Noren
It has been a while since our last update and a lot has happened. We returned to the marina for a month to have some boat work completed and repairs made, then returned to Phi Phi for two weeks. There was a big festival starting in Phuket which we did not want to miss so we sailed back to Chalong Harbor and anchored for a week.
We were in a gray area with immigration, we never got visa’s when we arrived last March, just crew papers that said we could stay legally for 30 day, NO renewal, No possibility to get visa’s. We spent two months talking to immigration officials, visa agent’s, other cruisers, with no solutions. Complicating the situation the harbor masters were instructed not to clear out any yachts to leave the country until borders opened up. So one agency says you cannot stay, another says your boat/home cannot leave. Immigration policy changes every few weeks here so everyone remains confused. Eventually it got sorted out after many, many trips to immigration. Every 30 days we have to return to the main office and they will stamp us in for another 30 days until borders open, which could be mid 2021, no one knows. At least our stress is greatly reduced.
To make things interesting the following is how we spent the second night in Chalong.
MIDNIGHT MADNESS

After living on board 16 years, and cruising full time the last 11 years we had a new first. We have been anchored in Chalong Bay, Thailand for the last few days. Big anchor, 200 ft chain on a mostly mud bottom, 10-1 scope. We always back down at full throttle and our reversing prop give us almost full thrust. Around midnight, as another of many short squalls barreled through the anchorage Michelle went out to check wind speed and our position. All good. Ten minutes later the wind picked up again and when she checked this time we were less than 10 meters from a catamaran that used to be 100+ meters away.
For the first time ever we had dragged our anchor but this was not the time to celebrate. I took the wheel as she tried to get the anchor up. The chain jumped out of the bow roller toward the middle so now she is pulling it up across the teak front lip. As I struggled to gain some control and keep us off the other boat the anchor winch breaker kept tripping from the strain of the pull. Too noisy from the howling wind and rain communication was impossible and I could only guess which direction the chain was leading. Complicating the situation was the full awnings we had up. They hindered visibility forward and acted like sails, pushing us around with great force.
We finally got the anchor up and headed down wind behind all the other boats and dropped all 250 feet of chain, the 55lb Delta anchor, large snubber, and a prayer. We wrestled the awnings down, the wind dropped to about 20 kts, and we were happy again.
In hindsight I think the new awnings were the main factor in our dragging since it had never happened before and we have used this anchorage many times.
When we finally settled back down to finish a movie we had been watching my wife gave me a kiss and said we did that whole thing without yelling at each other, like that has ever happened.
Start to finish of our adventure was one hour. Since we did not damage anyone else, worked together smoothly, it was all sort of fun in a demented kind of way.
Vessel Name: Enchantment
Vessel Make/Model: Island Packet 40
Hailing Port: Chicago
Crew: Vern & Michelle
About:
Vern, originally from Chicago, has lived in New Orleans and the Nashville, Tn area. I have been sailing for almost 40 years, have logged over 15,000 offshore miles and hold a 100 ton masters license. I also work as a critical care nurse. [...]
Extra: We are currently finishing with upgrades and improvements to Enchantment in preparation for a 3-4 year cruise from Baltimore to New Zealand. Our cruising kitty will be fully funded and our departure date is set for Oct 2010 with a transit of the Panama Canal late February 2011
Enchantment's Photos - Borneo
Photos 1 to 61 of 61 | Main
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Kuchinh water front: Kuching was one of our favorite stops.  A few days after our arrival the city celebrated their cultural diversity with a festival honoring the many different tribes and peoples.   We were told this was the first time in 20 years this festival took place.   The following pictures show some of the man traditional costumes of the tribes
Market shopping: Michelle & Claire searching for good produce.  Claire sails with her husband and 9 year old son.
Linda has been sailing on her boat Saraphin for 18 years
Every parade needs a few pretty girls to please the eye
Next stop was the small city of Miri.  Highlight was a day trip to Nia Caves.  Recently homo sapien remains were found here giving evidence of the area being inhabited 44,000 years ago.  This ferry boat takes us across the river to the trail head.
You can wade across the river,  if you are very brave or foolhardy
The cave today is a tourist attraction as well as a place where birds nests are harvested and sold to make birds nest soup.
The trail goes in for almost 2 kilometers
The locals that collect the nests climb these rickety poles to reach the nests,  not an easy way to make a living
After leaving Miri we stopped at "Turtle Island"   a marine park and protected area.  Thousands of sea turtles come here every year to lay their eggs.  This is the ranger station and the guys were very welcoming.   They fed us lunch and offered lots of beer,  which we don
They told us to return around 6pm and we should see some turtles landing later in the evening.  The captain of Enchantment ( me )  did not allow for the extreme tidal change and in 2 hours our dinghy was 100 yards away from the water.  Extensive rocks and coral prevented us from leaving.  So we had dinner with the rangers who then offered us a place to sleep as the weather had turned rough.  By midnight things got a little better and with their help we pulled the dinghy to a sandy area and got back to Enchantment
After the eggs are laid the rangers have less then 2 hours to collect them and place them in a hatching enclosure.  After that the yolk will tear away from the shell wall and the embryo will die.   After about 28 days the hatchlings are released after dark so the birds do not get them.  They will head for the light of the moon,  or any bright light.   Only 1 in 1000 will survive.   The rangers let us help release them but it was too dark for photo
Ready for a swim
We had a short stay in Brunei,  an oil rich nation and a curious mix of very expensive and very cheap things.  Food was average prices,  sim cards, taxis, marine supplies, accommodations expensive.  Fuel cheap,  health care maximum cost 75 cents US,  even if they need to send you to a major city in another country everything is paid for.  Overseas university expenses heavily subsidized.  Education free.  Crime is rare,  religions of all faiths are protected by law.
Much of the country is comprised of rivers and there are many "water villages",  the largest has a population of over 30,000.  We were invited to a newer village built by the government when their olf village burned down,  400 families live here.
Gongs are a traditional instrument and have a lovely sound
Demonstration of making rice noodles
The local ladies showing how to make shrimp crackers,  a favorite local snack
Concrete pilings and walkways make for solid construction and fire resistance.
Low tide,  when the water is higher the monkeys will swim from the rain forest to rummage through the garbage cans.
Inside the homes are modest but comfortable
Another style home is the "longhouse",  mostly used by the villages far from town.  The front of the building is one long enclosure which serves as a communal area. Along one side are doors leading to individual homes.  This modern longhouse is made of concrete and cinder block.  Most are made of timbers.
The largest mosque in Brunei,  built when the present sultan took office,  about 40 years ago.  He just turned 72,  has 4 wives, a palace with over 1750 rooms,  1000 cars including 500 Rolls Royce
The inside is fabulous
It is good to be sultan,  you have your own escalator.  He is actually pretty down to earth.  He joins locals in  bicycle rallys,  sport events etc.   Every year he opens the palace,  provides food and drink for all,  and you can meet him personally if you stand in line long enough.   Our local host has met him several times and been to the palace for a few events.   As an example if the sultans low key style our host said one day the sultan and the prime minister of Singapore were walking along the  park when a local ran up to him,  handed her purse to the Prime minister and asked for a selfie picture with him.  Bet our secret service won
We stopped by the sultans palace but our invitation got lost so we could only look at the driveway.  For security the palace has a large force of Gurkhas soldiers
The largest water village in Borneo.  The families live here by choice.   Even though they look shabby on the outside they have city water, sewage, electricity, etc.  and comfortable interiors
Fish from  your front porch
Numerous water taxis shuttle you from jetty to jetty,  each house has a unique address
On our way to visit a local home for tea
The inside is well appointed,  neat and clean
kitchen area
Water village Fire Department
And a Jail
After passing the water villages we headed 20 miles up river to virgin rain forest aboard local river boats
The trail eventually leads to the 995 steps you need to climb to reach the top of the observation tower
It is a long climb up
You can see the tower
From this point on the coast of N Borneo is prime smuggler and pirate territory.  Two commercial vessels were boarded while we were in the area.  ESSCOM  ( Eastern Sabah Security Commision ) does patrol the area and since we were a large group we had armed escorts 24/7  for the 2 weeks we transited the area,  and in our anchorages at night.
We were never out of there sight
Note the large machine gun at the bow
The highlight of the whole trip was probably the Kitabatangah River.  We traveled 50 miles up river along near virgin rain forest and protected wild life areas.  Many threatened and endangered species inhabit the forests.  Some are very rare and seldom seen,  such as black panthers, tigers,.  There are also many deadly critters,  mostly venomous snakes and crocodiles to invite you to dinner.

This is a Sun Bear,  the smallest bear in the world, still several feet long
Common Macaque monkey
Proboscis Monkey
And what everyone hopes to see,  Pigmy Elephants.   They are still quite large and dangerous if provoked.
Small crocodile
And for all you guys that think you are getting to old to do this stuff let me introduce you to Ian.  He sails out of Australia,  mostly single handed,  and he is in his LATE 80
 
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