Tales of Enchantment

also known as "Michelle and Vern's Excellent Adventure"

03 July 2023
17 June 2022
19 January 2021
11 November 2020 | Phuket, Thailand
08 August 2020
01 March 2020
17 November 2019
13 November 2018
29 August 2018
12 January 2016
27 December 2015
15 September 2015

03 July 2023
Vern Noren
We had been in Phuket,Thailand for 3 years after Covid began. We had been there several times before and now it feels more like home than any where else. But it was time to continue our cruising. Our plan was to join a group of boats sailing across Borneo, Indonesia and S to Australia. We decided to do a few things we had never got around to doing before we left. We had even considered retiring in Thailand but that would come later. This post is a random collection of photos from our last several weeks in Thailand.

Junkyard Theater.....Dedicated to Khun Poom

30 November 2022
Vern Noren
Junkyard Theater has a Cabaret dinner show every Saturday. The theater is behind the Grind Café which is almost completely hidden by bamboo and trees. Ten minutes from the marina, Michelle and I had driven past hundreds of times and never noticed it. A Facebook ad led us to make a reservation to see the show. It was awesome. At the end a woman came by our table and asked how we liked the show. Turns out her and her husband, and son are the owners of the theater. We talked for an hour and we were invited to meet her husband at lunch during the week. John, Judy, and I are all of similar age and experiences and we hit it off right away and become friends.

They moved from Australia to Bangkok 30 years ago and then here to Phuket 20 yrs ago. John has a commercial arts degree and under the theater area is his factory. He has many international clients of the 5 star hotel variety, with current projects in London, Bangkok, and the Maldives.

He opened up this theater a year ago when he realized that that were many talented performers on the island that were out of work due to Covid. He decided to hire a few to entertain at the restaurant which has since grown into a full theater group with about 25 performers and 15-20 support personnel. Lighting, sound, backstage hands, seamstress, stage manager, choreographer, etc.
The Underwoods are very generous with their success. The factory and restaurant workers get free lunches, many live free in various rooms scattered around the huge old building. The Underwoods have given financial support to employees with overwhelming medical bills and other needs. They are very warm and welcoming to everyone and if you are their friend you have an open invitation to "come anytime, just show up".

I came to the shows and rehearsal for a few months just to watch the dancers, they are sooo good. The break dancers are officially the Andaman Crew who have been in several international competitions and won a few trophies. The girls are just pretty to watch :-}.

Now for those that don't know me all that well I have always had a fear of public speaking. I was so nervous about getting up in front of people and speaking I would rather cut my hand off. Then came the John. He first encouraged me just to walk across the stage during one of the bigger street scenes. He wanted more people walking around like the real life Bangla Road. Ok, I can do that, just don't run. So now, 7 months later I am in 2 skits at Junkyard, and 4 spots at the Marriott. Except for Mango Massage I don't really have any speaking parts, which is fine with me. There are many I could take but I am happy with what I do, although I am tempted. John has offered many times to pay me but my parts are mostly trivial and I told him I am retired don't want a job. And Michelle said She is the only boss I am allowed to have!!

Still alive in Phuket

17 June 2022
Vern Noren
I just realized it has been a year since our last post. We are still in Phuket and not a lot new and exciting to report. The borders in Malaysia and Indonesia are open again so we will be leaving before the end of the year. Unless more unexpected things happen. We have said goodbye to friends and left Phuket for the last time four times now. Maybe number five will be more successful for us. We like Phuket a lot and have made many friends but it is time to move on.
I have added some photo’s we have collected over the past year. We hope you enjoy looking.

Thailand bits and pieces

07 May 2021
Vern Noren
We have been "stuck" in Thailand for just over a year now. There are worse places to be stuck for sure. Phuket went 3 months without a new local case of Covid, then suddenly went from zero to 250+ in a matter of two weeks. The rest of the country is under severe restrictions in an effort to contain it again. Officials believe it all started with large groups of partying youths and other "socially entitled" in and around Bangkok. I just read the Thailand ranks 124th in the world for vaccine distribution.
It has not been boring. Since our last update several months ago we have become better friends with many of the locals, had $6,000 in damage to our boat, had our diesel engine commit suicide, and revisited my hippy days.
The photo gallery has many new pictures with no rhyme or reason to the assortment.

North Thailand

19 January 2021
Vern Noren
We took a 3 week trip to N Thailand to a region I have never been to before. Michelle toured parts of it several years ago when our son & grandson came to visit. The region is mountainous and mostly remote with many small towns and villages.

Many different ethnic groups live in the highlands, many with their own languages, customs, and beliefs. The weather is pleasantly cooler than down in Phuket, and things are a lot cheaper. Our most expensive hotel was $25/ night, most under $20, and the cheapest was $7/night with a balcony on the river.

Thailand Tales

11 November 2020 | Phuket, Thailand
Vern Noren
It has been a while since our last update and a lot has happened. We returned to the marina for a month to have some boat work completed and repairs made, then returned to Phi Phi for two weeks. There was a big festival starting in Phuket which we did not want to miss so we sailed back to Chalong Harbor and anchored for a week.
We were in a gray area with immigration, we never got visa’s when we arrived last March, just crew papers that said we could stay legally for 30 day, NO renewal, No possibility to get visa’s. We spent two months talking to immigration officials, visa agent’s, other cruisers, with no solutions. Complicating the situation the harbor masters were instructed not to clear out any yachts to leave the country until borders opened up. So one agency says you cannot stay, another says your boat/home cannot leave. Immigration policy changes every few weeks here so everyone remains confused. Eventually it got sorted out after many, many trips to immigration. Every 30 days we have to return to the main office and they will stamp us in for another 30 days until borders open, which could be mid 2021, no one knows. At least our stress is greatly reduced.
To make things interesting the following is how we spent the second night in Chalong.
MIDNIGHT MADNESS

After living on board 16 years, and cruising full time the last 11 years we had a new first. We have been anchored in Chalong Bay, Thailand for the last few days. Big anchor, 200 ft chain on a mostly mud bottom, 10-1 scope. We always back down at full throttle and our reversing prop give us almost full thrust. Around midnight, as another of many short squalls barreled through the anchorage Michelle went out to check wind speed and our position. All good. Ten minutes later the wind picked up again and when she checked this time we were less than 10 meters from a catamaran that used to be 100+ meters away.
For the first time ever we had dragged our anchor but this was not the time to celebrate. I took the wheel as she tried to get the anchor up. The chain jumped out of the bow roller toward the middle so now she is pulling it up across the teak front lip. As I struggled to gain some control and keep us off the other boat the anchor winch breaker kept tripping from the strain of the pull. Too noisy from the howling wind and rain communication was impossible and I could only guess which direction the chain was leading. Complicating the situation was the full awnings we had up. They hindered visibility forward and acted like sails, pushing us around with great force.
We finally got the anchor up and headed down wind behind all the other boats and dropped all 250 feet of chain, the 55lb Delta anchor, large snubber, and a prayer. We wrestled the awnings down, the wind dropped to about 20 kts, and we were happy again.
In hindsight I think the new awnings were the main factor in our dragging since it had never happened before and we have used this anchorage many times.
When we finally settled back down to finish a movie we had been watching my wife gave me a kiss and said we did that whole thing without yelling at each other, like that has ever happened.
Start to finish of our adventure was one hour. Since we did not damage anyone else, worked together smoothly, it was all sort of fun in a demented kind of way.
Vessel Name: Enchantment
Vessel Make/Model: Island Packet 40
Hailing Port: Chicago
Crew: Vern & Michelle
About:
Vern, originally from Chicago, has lived in New Orleans and the Nashville, Tn area. I have been sailing for almost 40 years, have logged over 15,000 offshore miles and hold a 100 ton masters license. I also work as a critical care nurse. [...]
Extra: We are currently finishing with upgrades and improvements to Enchantment in preparation for a 3-4 year cruise from Baltimore to New Zealand. Our cruising kitty will be fully funded and our departure date is set for Oct 2010 with a transit of the Panama Canal late February 2011
Enchantment's Photos - Highlights of NE Indonesia
Photos 1 to 79 of 79 | Main
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typical taxi ride in Tolitoli
Michelle is always popular with the kids as she hands out candy
The gilr on the left is Seli,  one of our guides in Tolitoli and a teacher in this school we visited.  The man on the right is our other guide Faldi,  a teacher at another school.  We became very attached to them.
Seli
In remote towns the locals are surprised to see light skinned visitors.  They pretend to be shy ut they love their picture taken.
Picking out a shirt for me.
This remote village hosted lunch and traditional dances for us.
local home
Typical village home
The houses in this remote area have opening roofs to let in fresh air,   sun light.  This is the only area in Indonesia where homes are built this way
The mayor presented all the cruisers with mementos of our visit.  Locally I am known as a Swahmi ( husband )
Cruisers, dancers, and musicians
The mayor hosted us in his home for lunch.
They still use blow guns with poison darts to hunt food.  The animals have no fear of me hitting them.
Michhel learning how to make a local style broom
Coconut husks are used for fire to cook the sago palm sap into palm sugar
Families enjoying a picnic,  young people flirting, children laughing.  Take away the hijabs and you would think you were at a middle America town festival.   We were invited may times to join with families and sample m the food the brought.  As I walked around thoroughly enjoying the experience I had to wonder if donald trump even knows any Muslim
I kept telling her to behave but she is extremely stubborn
On a trip to a local farm we were invited to try corn chowder from the owners wife. I never thought of corn being grown in the tropics but it is a huge crop industry.   They use corn in main dishes,  chowders, soupd, drinks, desserts.
Our guides Seli and Faldi,  we look forward to seeing them again in a few days when we retunr to Tolitoli
The island of Saronde was where an  annual festival is held.  Talent competions,  music,  and boat races highlight the 2 day.
Festival dance group
Partnerstalent and skills competitions,  winners get a chance to work in the tourist department.  English is a prerquisite
It is very easy to meet loacl officials in the places we have been,  from mayors to provincial heads ( like a governor )   Try walking up to one of those in the States just to say hello.
Race boat at Saronde Festival
Raja Ampat snorkeling spot
Saronde beach
Lunch time for the cruisers
Festival competition
Center stage,  Amand is often
Michell swimmng with a whale shark.  Despite being 30 to 40 feet long they are very docile and non aggressive.   They eat mainly small fish or squid.
Michelle always likes to experience everything new
 Eti and Erfinna,  our guides in Bitung.  We stopped again  in Bitung on our way back toward Malaysia.  We had just got the anchor set when I got a phone call from Erfinna welcoming us back and telling us they  would be out in a short while with the forms we needed for a visa extension.  The next day they chauffeured us any place we needed to go with a smile and extra effort to find some difficult items.   There is no fee for any of this,  the government pays all the expenses
Eti,  one of our guides in Bitung is also an excellent singer.  She surprised us with several songs while we ate lunch.   She also coaches an adult choir that has competed internationally.  They took first place at a competition in Vienn a few years ago.
Bitung water taxi dock.  The area is bustling early and late afternoon with commuters and shoppers heading home.  We have seen as many as a dozen motor bikes on top,  along with much cargo and passengers.  You start thinking about the headlines " Overcrowded ferry capsizes in *** "  We took them on a daily basis to get from our anchorage to town.
Zoomba dance leader
Zoomba dancing every Friday morning on the main road in Bitung.
Even the mayor and his wife join in
Too cute to be camera shy
Traditional dancers at the zoomba dancing on Fridays
Shirly our guide and helper in Waisai.  Every where we stopped in Indonesia had a contact person to help in any way needed.  All thanks to Mr Raymond Lesmana who arranges these boat rallys in and arouind Indonesia.  The goverment expends a lot of time, effort, and money to attract cruisers,  and visiotrs in general.
Bitung Festival
Bitung Festival
Some peolpe nee3dtheir daily fix of heroin, cocaine, booze.  Michelle needs her daily fix of ice cream !!!
Festival booth for the marine park authority
Bitung Festival
Traditional dancers at Waisai Festival
Raja Ampat: Raja Ampat covers thousands of square kilometers and all of it is a marine protected area.  Raja Ampat is divided by the Equator.

Below taken fro Wikipedia


Marine biodiversity of Raja Ampat

According to Conservation International, marine surveys suggest that the marine life diversity in the Raja Ampat area is the highest recorded on Earth.  Diversity is considerably greater than any other area sampled in the Coral Triangle composed of Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands, and East Timor. The Coral Triangle is the heart of the world
This is a nudabranche,  about 2 inches long.  The frilly things on top are it
Green frog fish
Look m closely and you can spot an anenome shrimp in the tentacles.  The body is almost invisble
Yours truly down 60 feet sying hello to a frog fish
We saw dozens of turtles,  always a delight
Nemo and friends
Me lazing along at 70 feet down
Mud Shark,  also known as a Wobbegong.  pretty ugly
Upside down jellyfish
Another type of nudabranche
Another type of nudabranche
Sea cucumber
Box fish
Typical seaside village
Cuttlefish,  they look similar to squid and are a popular sea food in SE Asia.
Nudabranches
The most unique nudabranche we saw,  1 1/2 inches long
 
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