Tales of Enchantment

also known as "Michelle and Vern's Excellent Adventure"

19 January 2021
11 November 2020 | Phuket, Thailand
08 August 2020
01 March 2020
17 November 2019
13 November 2018
29 August 2018
12 January 2016
27 December 2015
15 September 2015
25 June 2015
26 March 2014

Thailand bits and pieces

07 May 2021
Vern Noren
We have been "stuck" in Thailand for just over a year now. There are worse places to be stuck for sure. Phuket went 3 months without a new local case of Covid, then suddenly went from zero to 250+ in a matter of two weeks. The rest of the country is under severe restrictions in an effort to contain it again. Officials believe it all started with large groups of partying youths and other "socially entitled" in and around Bangkok. I just read the Thailand ranks 124th in the world for vaccine distribution.
It has not been boring. Since our last update several months ago we have become better friends with many of the locals, had $6,000 in damage to our boat, had our diesel engine commit suicide, and revisited my hippy days.
The photo gallery has many new pictures with no rhyme or reason to the assortment.

North Thailand

19 January 2021
Vern Noren
We took a 3 week trip to N Thailand to a region I have never been to before. Michelle toured parts of it several years ago when our son & grandson came to visit. The region is mountainous and mostly remote with many small towns and villages.

Many different ethnic groups live in the highlands, many with their own languages, customs, and beliefs. The weather is pleasantly cooler than down in Phuket, and things are a lot cheaper. Our most expensive hotel was $25/ night, most under $20, and the cheapest was $7/night with a balcony on the river.

Thailand Tales

11 November 2020 | Phuket, Thailand
Vern Noren
It has been a while since our last update and a lot has happened. We returned to the marina for a month to have some boat work completed and repairs made, then returned to Phi Phi for two weeks. There was a big festival starting in Phuket which we did not want to miss so we sailed back to Chalong Harbor and anchored for a week.
We were in a gray area with immigration, we never got visa’s when we arrived last March, just crew papers that said we could stay legally for 30 day, NO renewal, No possibility to get visa’s. We spent two months talking to immigration officials, visa agent’s, other cruisers, with no solutions. Complicating the situation the harbor masters were instructed not to clear out any yachts to leave the country until borders opened up. So one agency says you cannot stay, another says your boat/home cannot leave. Immigration policy changes every few weeks here so everyone remains confused. Eventually it got sorted out after many, many trips to immigration. Every 30 days we have to return to the main office and they will stamp us in for another 30 days until borders open, which could be mid 2021, no one knows. At least our stress is greatly reduced.
To make things interesting the following is how we spent the second night in Chalong.

After living on board 16 years, and cruising full time the last 11 years we had a new first. We have been anchored in Chalong Bay, Thailand for the last few days. Big anchor, 200 ft chain on a mostly mud bottom, 10-1 scope. We always back down at full throttle and our reversing prop give us almost full thrust. Around midnight, as another of many short squalls barreled through the anchorage Michelle went out to check wind speed and our position. All good. Ten minutes later the wind picked up again and when she checked this time we were less than 10 meters from a catamaran that used to be 100+ meters away.
For the first time ever we had dragged our anchor but this was not the time to celebrate. I took the wheel as she tried to get the anchor up. The chain jumped out of the bow roller toward the middle so now she is pulling it up across the teak front lip. As I struggled to gain some control and keep us off the other boat the anchor winch breaker kept tripping from the strain of the pull. Too noisy from the howling wind and rain communication was impossible and I could only guess which direction the chain was leading. Complicating the situation was the full awnings we had up. They hindered visibility forward and acted like sails, pushing us around with great force.
We finally got the anchor up and headed down wind behind all the other boats and dropped all 250 feet of chain, the 55lb Delta anchor, large snubber, and a prayer. We wrestled the awnings down, the wind dropped to about 20 kts, and we were happy again.
In hindsight I think the new awnings were the main factor in our dragging since it had never happened before and we have used this anchorage many times.
When we finally settled back down to finish a movie we had been watching my wife gave me a kiss and said we did that whole thing without yelling at each other, like that has ever happened.
Start to finish of our adventure was one hour. Since we did not damage anyone else, worked together smoothly, it was all sort of fun in a demented kind of way.

Still alive after Covid

08 August 2020
Vern Noren
After a long period of laziness I am updating our blog. The short story is about our Covid challenge. In mid March we sailed 200 miles across the Mallaca Straits and Andaman Sea to Northern Sumatra. Our intention was to join a group of other cruisers for an organized rally down the West coast. The day the rally officially began the Mayor of Sabang , our starting point, said he did not want us there because of the Covid scare. The next day there were guards at the port gates to keep us in. The following day the organizer told us the next rally stop told him not to come, and the one after that was still deciding.
Things were going downhill so we decided to drop out and went through formalities to clear out of Indonesia. Our new plan was to get to Langkawi, Malaysia as quickly as we could, 200 miles away. By the time we finished preparing to leave, Malaysia announced the closing of all borders. Our only other option was Phuket, Thailand, also 200 miles away. We were just hoping they would still be open. Thailand closed it's borders a week after we arrived. A week after that Phuket shut down the airport and were shutting down movement between provinces, with highway check points to assure compliance. Along with other shut downs of pretty much every thing.
We decided to go into a marina we have stayed at before so we would have easy access to a grocery store, boat supplies, ability to walk on land, plus see a few friends again. Shortly after that the marinas were banning all new arrivals. We were very lucky to make the right decisions. We know of many other boats that were stuck in anchorages and not allowed ashore. Arrangements were made to bring them food and supplies. The boats that continued with the rally were chased out of many harbors by police boats and scared locals. They were rumored to be carriers and few towns were willing to let them stop. Cruisers all over this part of the world were at sea when borders were closed. One family friend of ours has been stuck on their boat in Sri Lanka for 4 months now. Several other couples went up the Red Sea to the Med and were never allowed off their boat the whole passage, two months. Then a 14 day quarantine in the Med.

So any way, we are good. We spent 4 months in the marina which killed our budget. It is very expensive but at least we had unlimited fresh water and electricity. We got spoiled by being able to run our air conditioner. After the first 8 weeks the authorities started open things up slowly so we could move around Phuket. Despite the cost we were there long enough to make some new friends and felt like we were becoming a part of the local community.

Thailand did a great job containing the virus. Stay at home orders, mandatory masks, crack downs on big groups, contact tracing, temperature checks every where, and still continue. Alcohol was banned for 2 months. Thailand has not had any new local cases in 9 weeks. They just tested several thousand people would attended a crowded event, most not wearing masks despite the law. None of those tested had the virus.

Hey Ann Rowe Pramis, I can't find your email address

Check out the 2 new video links in FAVOITES section

02 March 2020
Vern Noren

We are still alive

01 March 2020
Vern Noren
Not much has happened since our last post but we thought we should update our blog anyway. Next weekend we start a new adventure. It starts with a sail from Phuket, Thailand to Sabang, Indonesia. We will sail down the Western coast of Sumatra, then up to Borneo. After a few months in Borneo we will join a small group to sail to NE Indonesia and work our way back to the S Pacific. We should each the Solomon Islands around Feb of next year.
Vessel Name: Enchantment
Vessel Make/Model: Island Packet 40
Hailing Port: Chicago
Crew: Vern & Michelle
Vern, originally from Chicago, has lived in New Orleans and the Nashville, Tn area. I have been sailing for almost 40 years, have logged over 15,000 offshore miles and hold a 100 ton masters license. I also work as a critical care nurse. [...]
Extra: We are currently finishing with upgrades and improvements to Enchantment in preparation for a 3-4 year cruise from Baltimore to New Zealand. Our cruising kitty will be fully funded and our departure date is set for Oct 2010 with a transit of the Panama Canal late February 2011
Enchantment's Photos - Bits and Pieces of our last few months.
Photos 1 to 75 of 75 | Main
We have spent a lot more time in Boat Lagoon marina than we wanted to.  At $1000/month we need jobs soon.  This is the entrance at low tide.  When the tide come in water gets 5-10 feet deeper.
Marina view,  we are on second dock
Home sweet home
Last Jan,  3 days before we were planning to leave we were hit by a 50ft power boat while inside reading.  I heard a  motor rev up,  a loud scream,  and a louder crunch as $6k of damage was done.  The engine controls on his boat malfunctioned.  We have since become friends and the poor guy is still having engine control and steering system problems on a boat he just bought
Bae is the sister in law of BiBi , the girl we get massages from.  We have bee going over to their fathers home on Sundays when the shop is closed to play games and discover new Thai dishes.  The colorful little semi sweet desserts are called luke choop,  made from mung beans.  Very nice.

Bae is the only one of the handful of family who come that speaks good English.  We use a lot of hand gestures, smiles, and laughter.  It all works out and we have an enjoyable time.
A neighbors house,  simple and comfortable
BiBi sitting on the left.  Downstairs cooking area. The only electricity the house has is a few solar powered lights.  A friend brings him a bag of ice every few days t put into the refrigerator  to keep things cool.
Once our boat damage was repaired it was time to sail again.  We left the marina expecting to be out 3-4 months.  First stop Koh Phayam,  a few miles S of the Myamar border.  Some times referred to as the Hippy island.  Full time population about 5-600.  Laid back atmosphere, slow pace,  friendly people.  The island is small enough you could walk all the roads in a single day if you kept a good pace.   Long uncrowded beaches,  a very small town, and no cars.
Being lazy is an art form,  you must practice daily to get really good at it
Koh Phayam is a local tourist destination for those wanting a no frill vacation.  WE met a young German travel that had been there a month,  his room cost less than $10/day  and a scooter rental about $100/month
Long pier out to a small Buddhist alter
This is the closest thing you will find to a car on the island
This or a scooter is the most common mode of transport,  a good scooter is about $3/day.
Sathanee restaurant is owned by a Russian lady who has been here many years.  She smokes her own hams and bacon.  Like many business owners here she uses what she can find or recycle to build and decorate.
Asuka,  from Japan, came for vacation and has now been here 8 years.  She owns this small Japanese bakery and restaurant
We were very lucky to arrive on the island for the first "Hippy Bar"party they had had in a year.  A lot of mainland tourists came just for the party.   Boats started gathering late afternoon.  We were the only cruisers in the bay for the 10 days we stayed.
Jim,  the owner,  has been building the bar for 10 years.  He told me it is always a work in progress and he likes it that way.
It looks like a pile of drift wood from afar.
It is definitely one of the most unique structures we have ever seen.  Free flowing with a welcome vibe.
any local craftsmen set up booths hoping for a sale but none were pushy.
You pretty much just made yourself at home some where comfortable and did whatever you wanted.  A fair amount of
With the light slowly fading the atmosphere starting taking on an energy in anticipation of the night.
Several live bands played until the wee hours of the morning.  We faded long before then.
Two days after the partying was over we upped anchor and headed for the Surin Islands marine park,  just 25 miles away.  That
We had a mechanic look at it and after seeing water come out of the exhaust ports decided the best course of action was to remove the engine and have it rebuilt from the ground up.  $5-6,000 we had not planned on spending but the engine was 22 yrs old with a lot of hours on it.  Locating parts was the most difficult job on an engine this old.  Some came from Singapore and Japan,  where the engine was made.  That was 4 weeks ago and we are now hoping to get the engine back in next week.  We looked into a new engine but it was much to expensive here due to import taxes, higher cost of living in Phuket, etc.  A new engine here was $20k+ installed,  same engine in Pangkor Malaysia, 200 miles away $13k,  but no way for us to get there.
So what do you do when live gets rough,  you eat of course.  We read about this seafood restaurant called Rim Pan.  Locally famous for it
Right on the beach with a cooling breeze that day.  It mad the 45 minute drive worth the effort.
We had read an article in the local newspaper by a food critic that praised the place.  Michelle decided we had to order everything he recommenced.  Total bill including 3 soft drink,  $32
Since we were going to be here for so long we rented a small car for 2 months to give us the freedom to get around on the spot.  At $270/month it is very affordable.

Samset Nangshe is a very popular lookout spot just off the island along the mainland coast.  You can walk up the 30 degree steep road for a mile,  or take a 4 wheel drive pickup truck bus for $1.50.  Easy to guess what our choice was.
The view is toward northern limit of  Phang Nga Bay.
Almost 73 and I