Showdown at Helen Reef Part 1 of 2
12 March 2012 | Helen Reef
Steve
We sailed fast, straight toward the three Philippino fishing boats. We were in the calm water just outside the reef and with the wind from a small rain squall we were hitting speeds of 10 knots. The three boats tried to steer out of our way, but I adjusted course and continued to run on a collision course. It was a sort of environmental road rage. I wanted to run those boats down and cut them in half. At that moment I wished that Endless Summer was a steel hulled boat rather than foam and epoxy.
Then the radio crackled, “sailing boat, sailing boat.” “This is the fishing boat calling.” “I am very sorry, very sorry.” “We went inside the reef because of the bad weather last night.” “I am very sorry, I apologize.”
I was surprised at myself for the force of my response, “This is the United States flagged sailing vessel Endless Summer!” “You are in violation of international law.” “This is a conservation area.” I demand that you withdraw your fleet immediately.” The captain of the fishing boat tried again to apologize and give a weak excuse for his blatant and deliberate fishing expedition into Helen Reef, the southern most and largest Palauan conservation area. I threatened again that the Palauan patrol boat was on its way and that he must withdraw his fishing fleet. Then I altered course and we sailed south for Indonesia.
Manjula and I had spent almost a week anchored in Helen Reef, a 10 mile long atoll with a tiny sliver of an island near the north end. The reef is a conservation area and is strictly off limits to fishing of any kind. These areas are essential if there is to be any hope of restoring the health and vitality of the world’s oceans.
We were on our way out of the atoll bound for Indonesia when we saw the three fishing boats. Two were inside the large lagoon several miles away from us. One boat was outside. This kind of fishing boat is unusual for the western eye. It is comprised of a long narrow hull about 60 feet long, with outriggers built out on either side. The craft looks something like a raft with laundry hanging from lines strung between bamboo poles and smoke streaming up from mysterious bubbling kettles somewhere near the stern section. These are the mother ships. Each one is equipped with 10 or 15 small launches that are shaped much like one of Sinbad the Sailor’s shoes. They are just big enough to fit two men. These launches do the fishing and bring their catch back to the mother boat for processing while they continue to fish.
Today, there were a dozen or more of these small launches working the reef. They were harvesting sea cucumbers, and anything else they could catch, including sharks. They don’t want the sharks for meat, just the fins. The shark is thrown back in to drown after all its fins are cut off.
Helen Reef has a resident ranger team primarily to tag green sea turtles, but also to patrol the large atoll for illegal fishing. But the rangers are only three men and one woman. They are unarmed, and the fishing boats are usually armed. In the past there have been kidnapping attempts, weapons drawn, and various other scary happenings when the fishermen have been confronted and chased out.