After first sighting land early on Saturday morning it took us a very long time to get up the fjord and into Hammerfest. With our diesel gone and variable winds (which eventually died) it was quite a struggle and we didn't get in until late evening. But how good it was to step ashore and walk on land! We'd missed the nice hot meal but had a beer to celebrate and finally got some sleep. The major highlight on Sunday was having a desperately needed long hot shower which was followed by good food then beer at the pub :-) So glad I'd saved some clean clothes for when we arrived on land. It was nice to see trees again (don't think we've seen any since Iceland!) which were looking very autumnal. On Monday it was time to depart and after doing some sail repairs, shopping (yes fresh food!) and topping up the diesel we were on our way to Tromsoe. Everyone we met in Hammerfest was kind and helpful, we were also given a delicious apple cake by one of the harbour staff. Thank you! The passage to Tromsoe was comparatively very short and it was such a change to be sailing in coastal waters and the fjords rather than open seas. Quite different to be seeing other boats about too as there wasn't much traffic between Cambridge Bay and here! We arrived in Tromsoe in the late afternoon on Tuesday and departed again on Wednesday afternoon for Bodø. The passage took us about 36 hours and the scenery was just spectacular! We made it in just before the wind picked very early on Friday morning and we're hoping we can get away again soon. This feels like the hardest part of the journey now, knowing we are so close but still so far away from finally making it back to the UK.