Verboska, also known as "Little Venice"

How many people does it take to Med-moor? Answer, 11. One dock master, three on the boat and 7 people ashore watching and commenting! We are improving... I think, but as we watch others, nobody does it the way you see it on YouTube. Docking is always an adventure!
The Croatians are an interesting people, and it takes time to understand their ways. Over the years they have been over-run by just about everyone... Greeks, Romans. Turks, Austrians-Hungarian, Napoleon, and Hitler just to name a few.
At first they seem gruff and dis-interested in you. But if you engage them in conversation, everything changes and they are actually very friendly and willing to help. I think part of it is social and part language. If they don't have something to say to you, that's what they say... nothing. No casual conversation, no eye contact. And part is the nature of the language. To our ears it sounds "rough". And the conversation is always at full volume, only going up, never down. The national pastime seems to be smoking... everybody, young and old smokes! And heavily and everywhere. Every restaurant table have ash trays on them. So when dining out, you have to select a table upwind of all the smokers.
We stayed in Verboska for two nights. During the day we rented bikes and rode over to Stari Grad, another beautiful town with history dating back to pre-Christian times. On the road over we saw ancient stone walls and Greek and Roman settlement ruins dating to 1500BC.
Next morning (Thurs Sept 26th), we set out east for the town of Sucuraj at the east end of Otok Hvar. In brisk south-easterlies we beat 20 miles down Hvarski Kanal and rounded the tip of Hvar and motored into the tiny harbour. The dock master signalled us to do a side-tie rather than the stern tie normally used, and a good thing too as in the brisk winds and chop, it would have been an entertaining event. Although protected by a breakwater that prevented the swell from rolling in, there was an impressive chop that gave us a very uncomfortable night. Ashore, the village, well off the tourist path, was the usual scenic Croatian village. The main employer seems to be the ferry terminal from the mainland. We were the only visiting boat in the tiny harbour. We wandered the streets and alleyways and selected one of thethree restaurants for dinner. We had an excellent meal with prices significantly lower than in the more popular spots.
After a very disrupted sleep in the choppy harbour it was time to re-assess our plans. Our plan was to get as far east as the town of Korcula and then begin to work our way back towards Split. But the harbour of Korcula is open to the north and with a Bora (strong northerly wind that can blow for days), we reluctantly gave up on the plan and decided to retreat to Verboska with its excellent protection. So in a double-reefed main, we flew down the Hvarski Kanal back to Verboska in a "sporty"sail. Safely tied up, we hunkered down for the Bora.

MED MOORED IN VERBOSKA


Well, after a few years, I'm back on line. It's not that we haven't been sailing, but we have been cruising in BC in much the same waters that I have already written about. But this fall we set our sights on new territory, the Dalmatian coast of Croatia.
We flew from Halifax to London where we spent two days seeing the sights. Then from London to Zagreb, Croatia's capital where we spent two days touring and met up with our sailing partners, Pierre Lefebvre and Christian Bergeron, our neighbors from Whistler.
After a visit to two national parks, we headed for Split, the home base for our charter.
We spent two days viewing the impressive old city including Diocletians Palace with its maze of tiny streets and walkways including exclusive shops and small cafes.
On Saturday we headed for Marina Kaštel where our charter company, Croatia Yacht Charters and our boat, a Hanse 46 was located. Saturday was spent checking in (showing our newly acquires cruising certification), loading our gear aboard, shopping for supplies and getting a few boat problems attended to.
Sunday morning we were off, but far from alone. We left with literally hundreds of other charter boats. Before leaving, we watched a few other departures to ensure a clean exit from our Med-mooring at the marina.
After a short stop at the Blue Lagoon where we had our first taste of the crouds, we set sail for a small family run restaurant in an isolated cove on the south coast of Otok (Island)Solta in Uvala (Bay) Jorja. After learning that a mooring in Croatia is not the simple mooring ball of North America, we were finally settled. A mooring in Croatia involved being tied fore and aft on both sides... 4 lines holding you firmly in place. Dinner was a few plates of seafood of various types. And at dinner, we learned that many places in the islands accept cash (Euros) only. So we suddenly counted our cash to be certain we weren't embarrassed.
Monday morning dawned with light SE winds. Dropping the mooring in a cross wind was a bit of a challenge to avoid a boat directly ahead of us, but we got away cleanly. And a bit easier that picking it up.
Out of our anchorage we had the sails up and headed for Uvala Veli Dubroska, an anchorage about 14 miles away. After a beautiful sail, we motored in and found a spot to anchor among a mixed group of boats, some cruisers, some locals out for a day rein swimming and other larger boats of touring visitors.
After watching a departing German sailboat rip the bow pulpit off a Croatian motor yacht, we wondered if Europeans are required to undergo the same lengthy courses we took.
We launched the cheap flimsy dinghy, Pierre fought with the outboard for a half hour before conceding defeat and Jeannie and Christiane rowed ashore for a swim.
Morning dawned with a black cloud heralding a nice rain squall that sent us scampering out of our anchorage that had become a dangerous lee shore. Another nice sail to the beautiful and well protected village of Verboska where we tried out first Med-mooring, luckily in flat calm waters. B plus.
I'll post more pics when I have a good internet connection.

August 15th - 26th
If this is your view off your bow, you know you are not having a good day.
From Port Harvey, we ran down Johnstone Strait in calm winds and a flooding current. But it wasn't until we entered Race Passage that we felt the effects where our speed picked up to over ten knots. Through Race Passage, we headed up Mayne Passage and took a berth at the Blind Channel Resort.

Blind Channel Patio

We re-stocked from their store, mainly ice for our still non-functioning refrigerator. Then, after a hike on their excellent trails, the main event... Dinner. Blind Channel Resort in well known for its restaurant and we were not disappointed.

Dinner at Blind Channel

Plans for the following day were to head for Small Inlet in Kanish Bay. But just as we were turning in, we passed through a small tide line with some small sticks and seaweed as the propeller began to make a pounding sound, and shuddering. We had obviously picked up something. After a few failed attempts to free it, we resigned ourselves to a tow. We called the boatyard at Campbell River who gave us the number for Rob Sumner at CR Marine Assist in Campbell River, 15 miles away. Within an hour we were underway and by late afternoon found ourselves back in Discovery Harbour Marina for another unplanned visit. In the evening I located a diver and next day we were off again at noon, no permanent damage, except to my wallet!

Ready to dive

Propeller Freed!
From Campbell River, we enjoyed a beautiful sail up to Von Donop, then through Hole in the Wall to Waiatt Bay.
Here we met Howard and Lynn Bradbrooke. In the morning we hiked up to Newton Lake, a vigorous hike, for some swimming, well Howard and Jeannie. Lynn and I just watched.

Hiking up to Newton Lake

And after two nights, we headed back to Squirrel Cove to wait out some bad weather.
From there we headed for Cortes Bay for two nights and a vigorous hike up the Easter Bluff trail.

With Howard Bradbrooke on top of Easter Bluff, a vigorous hike.

From Cortes Bay, we enjoyed a spinnaker run to Texeda Island Boat Club, a favorite stop, and another the next day to Pender and dinner at the Painted Boat Restaurant to celebrate a great cruise. Next evening we were back in our slip at the Vancouver Rowing Club, cruise over.

Lacey Falls, Tribune Channel

July 30th - August 14th Cruising The Broughtons
Our route up Havannah Channel led into Chatham Channel. I had forgotten how strong the currents in the channel could be, and we entered facing a 4 knot flooding current. It seems strange to me that Chatham Channel floods S-E, but it does. So it was a slow trip through the narrows keeping the range markers aligned in the narrow channel. Out into Knight Inlet, we turned north-east and motored up into Tsakonu Cove. With only a few crab pots to keep us company, we edged up to the head of the bay. Although it is reported to shoal rapidly at the head, we were anchor in 25' at low with lots of swinging room if the wind pushed us further in. Jeannie set off on her paddleboard while I annoyed the Pink Salmon feeding on the profusion of bait fish. But I did no harm to the salmon stocks. We landed in the dinghy on the shore, but the dense woods were too much to try to work our way through, so we just stumbled over the rocks for a while. There is one old log dump that might provide better walking, but its landing looked too rough.
Next morning we motored down Knight Inlet to explore the profusion of islands at its mouth. This area is the designated Broughton Archipelago Marine Park. Past Village Island, we turned into Eliot Passage, passing the Village Island anchorage. This is the location of the landing to visit the abandoned Mamalliculla village. Although we later learned that landing was permitted, we weren't certain, so carried on past. Down into the Mound anchorage where we met our first fellow cruisers. In a large anchorage capable of holding a dozen boats, we anchored, sheltered from the rising north-west wind. Although Mound Island is reported to have trails, we couldn't find any. But with the open forest, we had excellent walking. The small campsite for kayaks was empty, as was the small shell beach.
Next morning we had another unsuccessful search for the elusive trail, and hoisted anchor just after lunch.
Up past Village Island, across Knight Inlet and through Spring Passage, we slowly edged our way into the "Seabreeze Anchorage". The anchorage is not actually in Seabreeze, but inside two unnamed islands to the east of Seabreeze. With room for only one or two boats, we dropped anchor in 20' and excellent holding in mud.
This was our first time in the area, so we launched the dinghy and set out exploring. Health Bay seemed a bit open for our liking, but in Health Lagoon we found significantly more water than the charts indicate, an excellent anchorage. Back at the boat, Jeannie got the paddle board out while I attended a few jobs. One was to replace the controller on the refrigeration as it had stopped again. Job done, no luck. So the search for ice would require serious planning. Obviously the compressor had failed.
Next morning we headed out towards Lagoon Cove Marina where we had a reservation for two nights. One reason was ice! Also, its a nice stop, although their famous happy hour of prawns on the deck was a Covid casualty. Retracing our route from yesterday, we crossed Knight Inlet and ran down through the well-named Beware Passage. Although open for most of its four miles, the southern end requires some very sharp "visual piloting". Safely through, we anchored for lunch in Potts Lagoon where we found three other cruisers. Then an afternoon sail up Clio Channel to Lagoon Cove. Although not empty, it was far from full. Speaking with the owners, they said that business was well down, but they had only been "shut out" a couple of nights.
After two nights and ice replenished, we were off again after another walk ashore. Across Knight Inlet, we entered the spectacular scenery of Tribune Channel. With its towering cliffs plunging straight down 1000' into the water, we just admired the beauty as we motored north. In late afternoon we motored in to Wahkana Bay, a well protected circular bay about a half mile in diameter. Although just over 100' deep in most parts, we found a 45 foot spot in the south east corner with good holding. We shared this anchorage with one other boat and three kayaks, just setting up as we took the dinghy over to the mouth of a stream with a short trail to stretch our legs.
Next morning we headed across the inlet and tied up at the floats of the Kwatsi Bay Marina. With the help of Anca Fraser, owner, we were tied up, the only boat on the dock. Settled in, we took the dinghy across the bay and hiked up to a nearby waterfall.

Kwatsi Bay Falls

Then a tour of the bay and it was Happy Hour. We spent a very pleasant evening sitting talking with Anca and her husband, Max Knierim. This summer their business was down by 80% due to the Covid restrictions. They started the marina 25 years ago, spending every summer there. It is now for sale. We can only hope that the new owners will maintain it in its pristine wilderness.

Max and Anca

Although our ice would last a few more days, there wasn't much else in the refrigerator, so it was time to head to Port McNeill to re-supply. So we cast off heading down Tribune Channel, Hornet Passage and into Cramer Pass. Passing empty docks at Pierre's Echo Bay Resort, normally full and busy, we were reminded again what a different summer it is.
We were headed back to the Mound Island anchorage, arriving to an empty anchorage just as the heavens open up on us. But after a soggy anchoring, we settled in as the sun returned. Next morning we headed out Whitebeach Passage into Blackfish Sound. We had checked the current tables and planned to enjoy a nice lift from the ebbing current. But as we headed into Cormorant Channel at the eastern tip of Malcomb Island, we found ourselves in some excellent tide rips, pushing us in every direction. But in light airs, we slogged through, safely tying up at North Island Marina at noon.
Port McNeill is an excellent place to re-supply. Grocery store and BC Liquor Store are just 10 minutes from the marina, and the grocery store allows you to use their carts to carry your supplies back to the marina. And the marina can re-fuel you from any slip... very convenient!
From Port McNeill we enjoyed a beautiful sail back across Queen Charlotte Sound into Fyfe Sound, Raleigh Passage and into Laura Cove for the night. This is a small anchorage, one of the most popular anchorages in the Broughtons. But we found just two other boats moored, and settled in out of the freshening breeze.
Next morning we were off to Turnbull Cove, a favorite anchorage in the north-west corner of the Broughtons. Just outside the entrance we dropped our prawn trap again. Although we had no luck to that point, we decided to try one last time. Inside the cove there were two other boats anchored. In a normal season we would expect to see twenty or more boats here. But its a half mile in diameter with excellent anchoring depths and holding, so it is rarely a problem to find room to anchor.
Today, no problem! We dropped the anchor for a three night stay. Ashore, we took the short but steep hike up to Huaskin Lake for some warm fresh water swimming. We met the family off one of the anchored boats and began chatting. We soon learned we had friends in common. They had met Cabot and Heidi Lyman (who live in Maine) in French Polynesia while they were cruising. We met them in Roatan when cruising the Caribbean!
Next morning we checked our prawn traps...Success! That evening Kevin and Joanne joined us again, with another fresh Chinook, so we feasted on fresh seafood that night.

Kevin has the appies ready for Happy Hour


Fresh Chinook Salmon for dinner!

The following day, we ran through Kenneth Passage into MacKenzie Sound and down to check out the very elegant Nimmo Bay Resort. Luckily they weren't serving dinner to cruisers this year. Lucky because the prices are as spectacular as the setting.
After another dinner of prawns in a garlic cream sauce, we were ready to begin our trip back south. We retraced our steps past Laura Cove and into Simoon Sound for the night. In the morning as we left, we met a bear swimming across the entrance, a good mile of open water.


We have no idea what possessed him to do it, but he was just calmly swimming.
We were headed for Kwatsi Bay where we were surprised to find a full dock, just room for us, but no Max and Anca. It turned out that Max had fallen the day before and injured his wrist, requiring a trip to Port McNeill. We sent Anca a photo of their full dock, their best night of the season.


We left Kwatsi Bay next morning, not before pulling up another full prawn trap. A short run up Bond Sound where we anchored just yards from shore, and explored the Ahta River. It is reported to be one of the few remaining watersheds of old growth timber and an important salmon breeding ground.
Because of our tenuous anchorage, we only spent a few hours here. Then back through Chatham Havannah Channel to Port Harvey where we anchored for the night, our Broughtons cruise over.

Sunset in Lagoon Cove

July 27th - July 29th The Back Route
It was time to go. The forecast for Johnstone Strait was for light south-westerlies for three days. And we had been checking conditions at Fanny Island for the last few days, seeing light morning winds, so conditions looked good.
From Von Donop to the Yucultas is 16 miles. With slack at 11:05, we set out up Calm Channel motoring in a warm sunny morning. No matter how many times I check the current tables, I always feel a sense of relief when I see other boats heading in the same direction. By the time we reached the beginning of the rapids, we were third in a line of six boats travelling north.
Through the Yucultas and Big Bay entering Gillard Passage, we could sense the beginning of the ebb. From Gillard Passage to Dent Rapids is just 2 miles. However, slack at Dent is 30 minutes earlier than Gillard, so as we passed through Dent, we could feel the current building. But all was well as we were swept into Cordero Passage, with the strongest rapids behind us.

Sealions in Gillard Passage
Today we were headed for Chameleon Harbour in Nodales Channel. Heading down the channel, we decided to look into Hemming Bay on the east shore of East Thurlow Island. We were interested in hiking up to Hemming Lake, however the profusion of "No Trespassing" signs discouraged us.
Inside Chameleon Harbour, we looked into Handfield Bay. It can accommodate two or three boats in excellent protection. But we decided to anchor just outside, setting the anchor in the lee of Bruce Point in 25' and excellent holding in mud. A short walk around tiny Tully Island, and it was time for dinner.
Next morning we were off to a late start, retrieving an empty prawn trap as we headed back up Nodales Channel to Cordero Channel,. Passing through Green Point Rapids two hours after slack, we were swept through with a 2.5 knot current boosting us. By the time we turned up Wellbore Channel into the Whirlpool Rapids, we were just at the end of the ebb, with less than 2 knots pushing us north towards Forward Harbour.
In Forward Harbour we found two other boats already at anchor. By days end our fleet had swelled to seven. Taking the dinghy ashore, we found a trail across to Beesborough Bay, looking down into Johnstone Strait nine miles to the west.

Beesborough Bay Beach
In the evening I hoisted a crab trap full of undersized crabs, all tossed back.
One last check of the weather, and we were in bed early. Next morning, we had the anchor up at seven and underway down Sunderland Channel, passing tiny Fanny Island as we ran out into the glass calm of Johnstone Strait. Just before noon, we turned in to Havannah Channel, passing Port Harvey and the former Port Harvey Marine Resort. Although the marina is closed, boaters are welcome to tie up.

Sunset in Prideaux Haven

July 10th to 25th Desolation Sound
We left our berth at the Rowing Club at 1000 hrs, catching the outgoing current to sweep us out the harbour northward. In English Bay, we found a bumpy ride as the light north-west breeze fought the outgoing current. But our plan for the day was just a short 20 miles to Plumper Cove, where we picked up a mooring and settled in. In the warm sun, we took the dinghy ashore and hiked the park trails.
Next morning we were off north again, destination Pender Harbour. In mid-afternoon, we were anchoring in Gerrands Bay, a first for us. With our outstation dock full, we decided to explore this area. Although we have been in Pender Harbour many times, we had never looked into this small protected bay. Circled with docks, and a few anchored boats who had obviously seen better days, we were one of only two cruisers. We thoroughly explored the area by dinghy, including a short walk to the shore-side trails of Francis Point Provincial Park.
After a leisurely start to the morning we took the dinghy over to the public dock at Madiera Park and topped up our grocery supplies. Back aboard, we got underway over to John Henry Marina to top up fuel and propane. Well stocked, we motored out into Malispina strait in early afternoon into more light northerly winds. No sailing today. Our destination, Ballet Bay, was just 12 miles away. Entering, we found the anchorage nearly empty. In a "normal" mid-summer, this anchorage can easily have 20 boats in it. But today, we found only two other boats. We had read about a trail ashore leading to Hidden Basin, so set out to try to find it. Although not well marked and obviously not well used, we did work our way through to a recently graded road. Not sure which way to go, and concerned about trespassing on private property, we wandered for a while, then decided to retreat and do more research.
Next morning we headed north again, and again in light northerlies. Late in the afternoon, we motored into Tenedos Bay only to find it too crowded for our liking. With the closed border, we expected to find much more room, so headed out again. Heading for Prideaux Haven, we rounded Otter Island and peered in at the tiny anchorage between it and the mainland. We found excellent anchoring depths, but after repeated anchoring attempts resulted in kelp balls on the anchor, we gave up and headed on. Again to our surprise, Prideaux Haven was far from empty, but there was room for us to anchor comfortably for the night.
Next day we headed for Roscoe Bay, but not before carefully checking the tides to be sure we had sufficient water to get across the bar, which shows 2' at a zero tide. Safely in, stern tie secured, we waited for the arrival of our Whistler neighbours, Kevin and Joanne in their Osprey, Ocean Fog.
Next morning we all set off for a day of fishing, returning in the evening with a beautiful Chinook for dinner.

Joanne preparing dinner!

From Roscoe Bay, we headed across to Squirrel Cove where we stayed for three nights, hiking and fishing. But we were also heading ashore daily for ice as our refrigeration had died. That required some impressive cooking, as all our frozen food had melted. So we had plenty of lunches prepared!
After a few failed attempts to diagnose the problem, we decided to head to Campbell River for some professional help. This was our first trip to Campbell River, and we were impressed. Securely tied up in the Discovery Harbour Marina, we arranged for a refrigeration mechanic.
Ashore we found a very impressive waterfront development with everything the cruising sailor could need... groceries, wine/beer, restaurants all within a 3 minute walk from the marina. And also a boatyard with a 60 ton travelift!
After a couple of hours poking and sniffing, the technician decided that the controller was faulty, causing the compressor to shut down. I had a spare that I was ready to install when it came to life, so decided not to tempt fate, and off we went, enjoying an excellent sail in 15 knots of wind back to Cortes Bay.
Fully stocked, we were looking at the currents in Cordero Channel. So next morning we headed north to Von Donop inlet to stage for our run through the rapids.

July 20-26

After Kevin freed our prop, we headed for shore. We spent the balance of the day and the next morning re-stocking and preparing for our visitors. Our grandsons Ben and Ethan were arriving for a week cruising with us. With their appetites, that meant lots of food, so that the cupboards and refrigerator were all full by the time they arrived in mid-afternoon.
Plans for the week were to head slowly from Pender Harbour across to Nanaimo and down through the Gulf Islands and meet their parents in Sidney.
After dinner, we were invited ashore by Evie and Rolly's neighbors for a campfire and marshmallow roast, a great start to the cruise.
In the morning we headed out of Gunboat Bay, through Pender Harbour and across Malispina Strait to Jedediah Island. Just a 16 mile trip, we rounded the southern tip of Texeda Island up Bull Passage and into Boho Bay where we anchored for the night. We chose Boho Bay for its shelter from the forecast north-west winds. By evening we had been joined with just six other boats in a large anchorage, lots of room for all. Anchored in 60' of water, we were glad of our chain counter, allowing us to be certain that we had he proper scope out. After some instruction, Ben and Ethan were handling anchoring duties. Arriving in early afternoon, we launched the dinghy and headed for Sunset Cove on Jedediah Island. Ashore we walked the paths looking for the wild sheep, left from the last permanent residents of the island. We saw lots of signs of sheep, but they kept out of sight as we crossed the island.Our only sightings were some bleached bones of a long gone resident.



Back in the dinghy, Ethan took over the controls and took us back across Bull Passage to Boho Bay.


There was talk of swimming, but only Ben managed to get wet, and just barely.


Next plan was put out the crab trap for the night using the head of Joanne's Chinook from the previous week (kept in the freezer).
Next morning we hauled a trap full of rock crab. But they were all too small to keep, so with great care to avoid the snapping claws, we dropped them over the side.


Anchor up, we headed down Bull Passage and around the south-west tip of Lasquetti Island. We headed SSE across Georgia Strait for Nanaimo. Like our trip north our course crossed the weapons testing area WG. Calling Winchesley Control, we were given permission to pass through. In a fresh SE wind, we were close hauled for the entire crossing, with just 2 tacks needed to lay the entrance to Nanaimo Harbour.
With the sails furled, we motored down the narrow Newcastle Island Passage lined with marinas and literally thousands of pleasure boats. At the southern end of the passage, we rounded up into the mooring field in Mark Bay where we picked up a mooring for two nights.
Newcastle Island is yet another of the many provinccial parks complete with mooring field, marina and dinghy dock. Ashore, Newcastle Island has a campground, small canteen (complete with ice cream), bike rentals and miles of trails.
At low tide, we walked the shoreline, checking out the tidal pools and skipping rocks.


Next ice cream and a game of checkers on a large outdoor board.


Next morning we rented bikes and took a trail around the island, a 2 hour trip.


Across to the Dinghy Dock Pub for supper, then ashore again on Newcastle Island for ice cream for dessert.


Next morning we were headed down into the gulf Islands. From Nanaimo, getting into the Gulf Islands requires passing through Dodd Narrows. Dodd Narrows is yet another set of tidal rapids that can only be transited during a 15 minute interval around slack. And to complicate this one, it is frequently used by tugs towing large log booms to the mill in Nanaimo Harbour.
Checking the current tables showed slack at 0956 hrs. With six miles to the narrows from our anchorage, we dropped the mooring just before nine. We have finally learned to trust our calculations and not rush out of the anchorage when we see others begin streaming out.
Arriving at slack, we made another "Securitay" announcement of the VHF to assure we wouldn't meet any surprises in the very narrow passage, and we were through and into Stuart Channel.
The Gulf Islands are a group of islands along the south-east coast of Vancouver Island. Sailing conditions inside the islands are distinctly milder than on Georgia Strait, and we enjoyed the light winds and sunshine sailing as we slowly made our way down from Stuart Channel into Clam Bay for lunch. In the dinghy we motored through the very narrow cut between Thetis and Keuper Islands into Telegraph Harbour. At the north end of the harbour we watched two model sailboats tack back and forth across the harbour. They are tethered to wire below the surface that they follow to one end, tack and sail back. Ashore at Telegraph Harbour Marina, more ice cream servrd. Then back aboard Estelle and
across to Trincomali Channel and into Montague Harbour, another provincial park with mooring field and dinghy dock. We anchored just outside the mooring field and dinghied ashore to the park for a hike.
In the morning, we went back ashore with Ethan's fishing rod and a "stick" rod for Ben. Our targets were the tiny bait fish that swam around the dock. We secured bait by cutting off a very sticky and slimy tube worm under the float. Two hours later we had caught and released countless tiny fish




Then, off again, this time to nearby Ganges on Saltspring Island.
Mid July is peak boating season in Ganges, one of the most popular destinations in the Gulf Islands. Rather than try to find space in the marina or crowded anchorage, we anchored in nearby Madrona Bay with just three other boats in the large anchorage. From our anchorage to the Ganges dinghy dock is just over a quarter mile, yet boaters seem to insist on crowding into a tiny anchorage as close to the dock as possible, leaving us lots of. room next door... not sure why.
Ashore for dinner at The Tree House and after... ice cream.


It's been an ice cream trip. Only in Boho Bay, with nothing ashore, did we miss a day.
Next morning marked the boys last day aboard. We raised the anchor and set out for Van Isle Marina in Sidney. Out in Captain Passage, we hoisted the sails and enjoyed a light air sail through Moresby Passage past Portland and Coal Islands where we rounded up and dropped the sails. Motoring in to our assigned slip, we were secured to the dock at 1620 hours, cruise over.
Next morning we walked up the dock to meet Andrew and Meghan and we were left with a strangely quiet boat.

Sunset in Bull Passage, Jedediah Island

Well, it is now well past time to bring this blog up to date on our 2019 cruising activities. As I write, I am waiting in Whistler for skiing conditions to improve. It has not been the best season, but I still have some how not found time to write.
Basically, our 2019 cruising season can be divided into Three more or less different cruises.

July 7-20, 2019
Our plans for an early start to the cruising season were obviously not a reality. A renovation project at home meant that we had a myriad of decisions to make, involving many trips from Whistler to Vancouver for selection of more things than I could imagine. But by early July we had had enough and headed off, relying on cell phone and email to make any more necessary decisions.
On July 7th, we finally backed out of our slip at the Vancouver Rowing Club and headed out. Plans for the trip were Princess Louisa Inlet, followed by meeting our Whistler neighbours Kevin and Joanne Fogolin in Desolation Sound for a few days of fishing.
Although our destination was north from Vancouver, we headed across the Georgia Strait to Nanaimo, a better sailing angle. After a beautiful sail across the 35 miles of Georgia Strait, we were picking up a mooring at Newcastle Island Park. Ashore, we stretched our legs in a short walk, then back aboard for dinner and bed. It felt great to be cruising again!
Next morning, after a call to WG Control to confirm we were allowed to transit the WG weapons testing area, we were off. As forecast, the wind had swung to the south-west, giving us a nice broad reach on our NNE course to Jedediah Island.
Last spring, we had a few jobs done at our friends Strait Marine. We replaced our primary chain (200') with 300' for better security in the deep anchorages. And we also installed chain counter/remote windlass control. So now, we can not just raise and lower the anchor from the cockpit, we know how much chain we have out, excellent additions for the challenging anchoring conditions in many areas.
At Jedediah Island, our destination, we tested the new system out anchoring in Bull Passage and were pleased with it, giving us real confidence in making certain we have the proper scope out.
Ashore we walked the paths of the island, with the wild sheep keeping well away from us. We have been here a few times before, but always enjoy its feeling of remoteness. And although it can attract lots of boaters, it never seems crowded.

Overlooking Home Bay, Jedediah Island

Next morning we were off to Pender Harbour to stock up for the remainder of the trip, meaning ten days of supplies. We anchored in Gunboat Bay, off the dock of Evie and Rolly Rolston, Whistler neighbours.
Ashore next morning, Evie took us up to her vegetable garden and with that we had all our vegetable needs for the trip! They they loaned us a car for more shopping in nearby Madeira Park.
To enter Princess Louisa Inlet means navigation the narrow but turbulent Malibu Rapids right at the mouth of the inlet. We chose our day by studying the current tables to find a day with slack current in late afternoon, giving us time to make the 45 mile trip in one day. So it was late afternoon when we approached the rapids. Because there is a curve in the rapids, you can not see the entire rapids before entering, so we called a "Securitay" on the VHF announcing our plan to enter. And luck we did, as a boat already in the rapids out of sight responded telling us they were exiting. So after they sailed out, we began our entry. Although not exactly slack, we were safely through followed by two other boats that had been waiting outside when we approached.
Although we didn't have time to look at it, we swept past the Malibu Club Young Life Camp, a luxurious camp perched on the rocks overlooking the rapids.




Inside the inlet we stared in awe. At its widest Princess Louisa Inlet is just over half a mile. From the rapids at the mouth to Chatterbox Falls at the head is just under four miles. With cliffs soaring straight up over a mile, the effect is spectacular.






At the head of the inlet, there is a dock with a few short hiking paths ashore. Motoring up the inlet, we tied up next to a boat we had met in Pender Harbour a few days before, so we had helping hands to take our lines. Much of Princess Louisa Inlet is a provincial park, but not all. Dock fees are by donation, and a park ranger comes and goes from time to time. There are rules posted about garbage and noise, all seemingly adhered to on the honour system.

In two days, we kayaked around, hiked the small trails including one beside the falls with a sign warning not to go further or you might risk death, as others who ignored the sign did. We heeded the warning.

After two nights, we dropped our lines and motored down the inlet to a small mooring field with a dinghy dock and some larger hiking trails. We also took the dinghy down for a tour of the Malibu Club where we were warmly welcomed.
Next morning it was time to catch the morning slack at the rapids and head down towards Georgia Strait. In light airs we motored down Queens Reach, Princess Royal Reach and Prince of Wales Reach before heading in Sechelt Inlet to Backeddy Marina.
Backeddy Marina is well named. It is just one mile in Sechelt Inlet and two miles above Skookumchuck Rapids, the strongest rapids in BC. So currents at the marina can be strong. But the marina staff are well versed with docking and with their guidance, and three men on the dock, we were safely tied up in late afternoon.
We quickly hiked up to the nearby West Coast Wilderness Lodge to try to make a reservation for dinner, but too late, so we settled for breakfast the next morning.
It was now time to head for Desolation Sound to meet Kevin and Joanne, so we left the dock and across Malispina Strait to the docks of the Texeda Island Boat Club, where we tied up for the night.
Next morning we were off to Squirrel Cove on Cortes Island to meet Kevin and Joanne. We stayed in Squirrel two nights and went fishing during the day.

Lunch while fishing

Joanne celebrated her birthday (a significant one) by catching an enormous Chinook Salmon that we had for a birthday dinner.

Joanne's catch



Dinner with Joanne's catch


Nice Rockfish

Next morning it was time to head back to Pender to meet our grandsons Ben and Ethan for a week cruising. As it is a bit too long for a single day, we again headed for Sturt Bay (home of the Texeda Island Boat Club) for the night. But this time, the club floats were all occupied, so we anchored in the north-west corner of the very sheltered bay. With six other boats in the small anchorage, we found a spot for our anchor and tied off to shore to reduce our swinging. Although this is a common technique in this area, we have not yet really mastered it, but are improving.
Next morning we were off down Malispina Strait in light following winds, prompting the spinnaker to come out. In mid afternoon we pulled in to Gunboat Bay and dropped the anchor. Backing down we nicely wrapped the dinghy painter (line) around the prop just as Kevin and Joanne motored in. As I prepared to dive on the prop, Kevin insisted on doing it. An hour later, with a very cold and tired Kevin, we were back in operation!

A cold Kevin!