Deep in Downeast Maine
26 August 2009 | Mistake Island Harbor, Maine
Sunny, Temp 72F, Wind S-E@5-10 kts
Bruce cooking lobsters in Mistake Harbor
On Monday we dropped the mooring in Somesville in a bright dry day. In a light north wind we ghosted down Somes Sound into Mt Desert Island's Great Harbor (which isn't really a harbor at all) and out Eastern Way to head down east. Its referred to down east even though the course is north-east, as the prevailing south-west winds mean you are sailing downwind. The expression comes from the days of sail and has remained in use since then.
Passing Schoodic peninsula marks the boundary to Downeast Maine, and denotes a marked contrast in the coast. Here the fabulous summer homes end, and far fewer cruisers sail the area as there are no facilities for pleasure boaters. And the climate changes... the area has on average 250 hours of fog per month in July and August, or about 1/3 of the time. But we had a bright day and enjoyed the cool but clear sailing. By late afternoon we were passing Petite Manan Island and its 250' high lighthouse and headed in Naragausses Bay to roundup behind Trafton Island.
Sailing up we were still in 5'-7' swells left over from Hurricane Bill, but deep in the bay the swell was broken by the many granite ledges and islands, so that in our anchorage we were in flat calm waters, except for the wakes of the passing fishing boats. And there are lots of them.
Tuesday morning dawned clear and warm, so breakfast in the cockpit was a leisurely affair, so that we were not underway until mid-morning. We motored a short way to Eastern Harbor, a small working harbor filled with fishermen and lobster pots. We found space to anchor, dropped the hook and went ashore to explore. A short walk brought us to South Addison, really just a collection of homes, some year-round and some summer homes. But the store our guide book spoke about had closed a few years ago. Back at the lobster pound, the only landing place in the harbor, we bought four 1.5 lb. lobsters for just under $20 and headed back to the boat.
Just after lunch the wind sprang up from the south-west, giving us a beautiful sail further "down east". We have learned that to make any significant progress, you have to sail with the tidal currents that run up and down the shore at 2 knots. So with a tide high in late afternoon, we quickly sailed up past the pink granite of Great Wass Island and by mid afternoon, we were turning in to our destination, Mistake Island Harbor. Weaving our way between the lobster pots, we dropped anchor in 18' of water. As it was at high tide (12') that left 6' at low. So with our draft of 5', we should have 1' beneath us at low.
Mistake Harbor is created by Mistake Island, Knight Island (each about 1/2 mile long and 200 yards wide) and a bunch of rocks and ledges that protect it from the ocean swell. We were a bit leery about the protection when we first saw it, but after anchoring, began to feel more comfortable. Ashore on Mistake Island (I have no idea where the name comes from) we walked the trail to the lighthouse, picked blueberries and watched a yellow-tailed hawk hunting over the moss and lichen covered granite.
Back aboard, we steamed our lobsters and had cole slaw and potato salad for an unbeatable dinner. Tomorrow, we'll explore some more nearby anchorages, Mud Hole, The Cow Yard and Roque Island.