Estelle sailing up Penobscott Bay to Castine
In spite of the sun, the temperature on the water has dropped, signalling the end of summer here in Maine.
On Sunday in Port Clyde we reluctantly decided to turn around and begin the trip back to Somes Sound where Estelle will spend the winter. At either end of our cruise we leave destinations not yet reached... Roque Island at the eastern end and Monhegan Island at the western end. But they will be there next year.
We sat ashore on the dock of the Port Clyde General Store in the warm sunshine discussing plans with Seabird. Although the day was fine, the forecast was for the winds to turn to the north-east with cooler temperatures by Wednesday. So reluctantly (and not without a few tears shed), we parted company with Seabird. They continued west towards their home port, Woolwich, on the Kenebec River, while we turned eastward to begin our trip back to Mt Desert Island.
Dropping the mooring in late morning, we watched Seabird slip south into Muscongus Bay, while we headed out into Muscle Ridge Channel and up into Penobscot Bay. In the light breeze, we motored, sailed and motor-sailed as the winds came and went. By early evening we were off Pulpit Harbor where we have anchored many times, so we headed in. Although there were fewer boats than mid-summer, we were surprised to see as many as we found, including about a dozen cruising boats. We picked up a mooring belonging to friends and quickly hurried below as the evening began to cool down.
Monday morning the warm sun was back and after breakfast we dropped the mooring and picked up the fresh (and cool) southerly breeze blowing up Penobscott Bay. We sailed up to Castine, another favorite stop and picked up a guest mooring at the Castine Yacht Club. A quick call to The Pentagoet, an excellent inn and restaurant assured us of dinner. Then ashore we wandered about the historic town.
We have been here before and always enjoy walking the streets lined with historic homes dating back to before the American Revolution. Castine has been controlled by the French, English, Dutch and Americans in its colorful history, some holding it more than once. And there are plaques telling about the details of battles fought at various points in the town. It was from Castine that some United Empire Loyalists dismantled their homes and barged them up to St Andrews in what was then Nova Scotia (now New Brunswick). Castine has probably been preserved more by accident than intent, as its importance dwindled as shipping and travel by sea was replaced with road and rail, leaving it well off the main routes.
The Pentagoet Inn
Dinner at The Pentagoet was excellent, as usual, and we were back aboard for another quiet night. We run the heater every night to kept us warm.
Tuesday morning we motored out of Castine Harbor in the morning calm. By the time we were in Eggemoggen Reach, we felt the breeze filling in and began what would be our last sail for the season. Down the Reach, we flew across Jericho Bay, through York Passage, across Blue Hill Bay and into Mt Desert Island's Great Harbor, all familiar territory now. Sailing up into Somes Sound, we felt the breeze die as we ghosted up to the boatyard. Tied up for the night we quickly hurried below for the night. On Wednesday morning, I drove Jeannie in to the airport in Bangor. She flew to Montreal for a meeting, leaving me to clean out the boat for winter storage.
Since this is the first winter in three years for storage, it was quite a job to get everything out... a two day job, in fact. Its odd but things just seem to come aboard and none leave. By Friday morning, I had taken six large bags to the dumpster, two crates of food to the boatyard lunch room and had stuffed our car to overflowing, so that when we left, the boat was riding noticably higher and the car lower.
Even the boatyard crew said it was odd to see us coming out this time of year. But after last winter's trek, it's time for a break. In three years of cruising we have sailed over 11,000 nautical miles, and Estelle needs a rest and some recovery time, as do we. So we're all tucked in for winter and will be ashore until next summer when we plan to push our horizons further still. No more blogs until then, but I will be posting more photos as time permits.