Roadway on Bald Head Island

"How else can I say it??? We're on the bottom!!" The woman's voice came over the VHF with more than a note of frustration and a slight french accent. They were a few miles behind us on a particularly shallow section of the ICW.
We left Norfolk Oct 24th, mile zero of the ICW and headed up the Elizabeth River. After 20 minutes we were waiting for our first bridge to open. A few minutes of shuffling in the current and we were through. Turning into Deep Creek, we headed for the lock that would lift us 10' up to the Dismal Swamp Canal. At the lock, Robert the entertaining lockmaster got all the boats in and properly tethered. Of the eight boats that came through the lock in mid-afternoon, only two of us carried on into the canal. We were headed for a small dock only a few miles into the canal. There we would spend the night and then explore the feeder canal and Lake that supply the water for the canal. Tied up in late afternoon, we took a short walk along the canal bank, then back aboard.
In the morning we were disappointed to be met by a dredge at the mouth of the feeder canal, preventing us from exploring. So we were off down the canal, watching the wildlife, deer, turtles, geese and ducks and a water snake as the leaves slowly drifted down on to the water.
We can see a change in the vegetation. Gone are the maples and oaks, replaced with southern species like cyprus and live oak draped with Spanish Moss.
At the southern end of the canal, we tied up and walked through the few buildings that constitute South Mills. Back aboard, we passed into the lock and dropped 10' into the head waters of the Piankatank River. In spite of the winds blowing 20 knots above us, the water surface was calm, protected by the trees. We motored down to a small cove just north of Elizabeth City where we anchored in complete protection from the rising winds. By the time we were settled the rain had started, then the thunder and lightning flashing and crashing all around us. It lasted through most of the night, so that we got up to a very clean boat in the morning.
Catching the 8:30 am opening of the Elizabeth City Bridge, we sailed down the Piankatank past Elizabeth City's free docks, filled with cruisers. We were the lone boat heading down, and by noon the rain had stopped and we were now beating into a headwind up the 25 miles of the Alligator River. It is wide but not deep, so that we never had more than two feet beneath the keel, and for much of the time, less. But the chart soundings seemed accurate. By nightfall we were ready to anchor and made the head of the river where the Pungo-Alligator Canal starts.
After a good sleep we were off again, but looking at a shorter day. It was a good day to do the canal, 25 miles with only one 20 degree bend at mid-point. It was another windy day, blowing 25 knots, but in the canal the waters were calm. Out into the Pungo River, we rolled out the jib and fllew down the river to Bellhaven.
Bellhaven has fallen on hard times, perhaps a magnification of the economic woes across the country. The streets were practically empth, and two out of every three shops were closed. Although we tried, we couldn't find anything to spend even one cent. The only signs of life were in the library where we were able to check email. Back aboard, we spent a bumpy night in the harbor, poorly protected from easterly winds. But the temperature has changed. It is now in the mid-80's (mid 20's C) and humid! So its back to shorts and t-shirts!
In the morning we sailed out the Pungo and across PamlicoSound. The river was filled with boats, many of whom have been hiding out in the creeks and marinas for a few days. So we joined the parade and worked our way south to the Neuse River. We pulled in to Broad Creek where we anchored in the lee of the land for protection for yet more winds in the night. Off in the dinghy to explore the creek, we ran across a couple in a 50' Hinckley yawl who we met two years ago. We pulled alongside and had a chat. Their boat is celebrating its 50th year, and they have been working restoring it. It looks beautiful!
The morning saw us heading out into the Neuse in, yet again, 25 knot winds, but this time behind us. During the night the temperature plunged, so we are now bundled up again. Odd for such a big drop not to have thunder storms with it, but all was quiet. Windy but quiet. We had a cool but merry sail up the Neuse into Adams Creek and the canal. So with furled sails we headed into Beaufort. We tied up at the Beaufort Town Docks for two nights. Its time yet again to re-stock, and we are in no hurry, hoping for a weather window to head offshore. In Beaufort we got our first taste of local fgresh shrimp, so we had an excellent shrimp and grits.
Here's the recipe:
1 lb shrimp
3 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp chopped onion
1 clove garlic, chopped finely
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp olive oil
Add all but the shrimp to a pan, sautee for 10 minutes. Add the shrimp, sautee 5-7 min until opaque. Don't over-cook.
Cook grits according to package instructions.
Serve shrimp over grits.

We were planning to head out to Cape Lookout and head off directly to Charleston, but the weather won't cooperate, so on Halloween we headed off down the ICW again. By evening we were tied up to Casper's Marina in Swansboro. A nice quiet small town, we walked the streets, decorated for the evening celebrations. Then back to the boat for dinner of spicy sausage with pasta:
2 tbsp olive oil
1/2 lb hot Italian sausage, casings removed
1 large sprig rosemary
1 fat garlic clove, finely chopped
1.5 lbs ripe plum tomatos, diced (sub 14 oz canned tomatoes)
1/4 cup green pitted olives, sliced
1/2 lb pennee whole wheat pasta
Warm the oil in a large skillet or wok over medium heat. Add the sausage and rosemary. Break up the sausage while cooking until browned and cooked through, 5-7 minutes. Add the garlic, cook 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and stirr occasionally, cooking until they have broken down and turned into a sauce., 10-15 minutes. Stir in the olives and cook five more minutes. Meanwhile, cook the pasta. Add in cooked pasta, season with salt & pepper to taste, toss and serve.

Tuesday (Nov1st) was a long and boring day, as we knew it would be. It was a day of running from one bridge to another, each opening only on a schedule. So as soon as we passed through one, we would be busy calculating the speed we had to maintain to make the next opening. And we missed one, only opening once an hour, by ten minutes. So it was six pm when we passed through the last one and pulled in to the Wrightsville anchorasge. We were accompanied in by two other boats. One was Scrimshaw, from Hamilton Ontario. It was Scrimshaw that had run aground earlier in the day. They got themselves off, and caught up to us and passed us, only to run hard aground again. They called us on the VHF to tell us which side of the channel to take. Again they got off. As we headed to the last bridge, they asked if we would lead the way in to the mooring as there is another shallow spot in Motts Channel, leading to the anchorage. But we all got safely through and anchored, ready for another windy night.
Tuesday saw us up and off again, headed for one of our favorite stops on the ICW, Bald Head Island. Again the wind was blowing, 20-25 knots, but again at our backs. We motor-sailed down the ICW until out into the wide Cape Fear River, where we finally sailed down, running at 9 knots in its strong tidal currents.
In the marina we're settled in for two nights, hoping the wind will cooperate for a run overnight to Charleston. Right now its iffy until later in the week. We'll see. In the mean time we can explore this beautiful spot.