The Low Country
07 November 2010 | Charleston City Marina, Charleston S.C.
Sunny, Air Temp 72F, Water temp 66F, Wind N@10
After two days in Bald Head Island, it was time to move on. Its a great spot, but winter can close in even here, and its reminding us.
On Thursday (Nov 4th) we left for a short sail down the coast to Little River Inlet. Winds were light but it was good to be sailing again and it is only a 30 mile hop. Bald Head Island is at the very mouth of the Cape Fear River, so minutes out of the marina we were setting our course for Little River. In the cold northern air (from Canada, as NOAA Radio puts it), we were bundled up like the Michelin Man.
We met Seabird just outside the river mouth and set sail on a course due west. We have cruised with them on and off every year we have been cruising, and today was our first meeting of the year. They left Maine later than us and we finally met up.
After a quiet day sailing, we were approaching the inlet when a squall hit us... blinding rain and winds of 30 knots. Seabird was wise enough to have furled their sails before it hit, but not me. We wanted to continue sailing as long as possible, so now I struggled to get things under control in a blinding rainstorm. But all was well and we motored in the inlet in mid-afternoon to anchor in nearby Calabash Creek.
Getting in to the creek was a bit of a chore as it was dead low tide. After two failed attempts, sliding onto the mud and backing off, we were safely in. Arriving in mid-afternoon there was only one other boat there, so finding room was not a problem. But the plan to go by dinghy up the creek to the village of Calabash was canceled in the still pouring rain.
By evening it had stopped, so Bruce and Nancy came aboard for a long-awaited reunion. We spent a great evening reminiscing and planning this year's trip. By late evening the anchorage was so full that I was on deck asking someone not to anchor so close to us.
Next morning we were off down the ICW through Myrtle Beach, a boring stretch, but for which you are rewarded with sailing down the beautiful Waccamaw River. Here we motor-sailed down the quiet river, running through Prince Creek, an offshoot where we saw turtles sunning themselves on logs and an alligator slowly swimming along the bank. He just stopped and stared at us as we slid past.
After a long day we slid into the quiet waters of Jericho Creek, one of our favorite anchorages. In the dusk, out of the breeze we enjoyed the quiet of the evening in the cockpit until the cold night air chased us below. Next morning we woke to the coldest morning yet. In the boat it was 44F or about 7C! For some reason, I always get elected as the one to get out and turn on the heater. But the boat was soon toasty warm and a breakfast of burritos coffee and fruit made all well.
We sailed down to the mouth of the River, Winyah Bay and into the village of Georgetown. We anchored and went ashore for a short walk to stretch our legs and find some supplies, fresh grouper and yet more shrimp, then off to the Kudzu Bakery. If you ever find yourself near Georgetown South Carolina, don't pass it by. The Kudzu Bakery is one of our favorite stops along the coast! And unlike poor Bellhaven, Georgetown seems to be prospering, with its front street full of shops all looking prosperous.
Back aboard, we took advantage of the still falling tide to sweep us out Winyah Bay, back into the ICW and through the marshes of the Cape Romaine Wildlife Refuge. At dusk we motored in the still cold north wind into Awenda Creek, rounded up and dropped the anchor with nothing but marshes to be seen for miles.
Next morning was another chilly morning, but the strong north wind was dying, so by the time we were tying up our lines in Charleston, we were beginning to remove some of our layers. We'll stay here two days. I have some projects... my favorite, an oil change, re-commission the watermaker (we don't use it in coastal cruising, but I want to check it out before we head offshore), and some sight-seeing, and dinner out. Charleston is a beautiful city with restaurants to match! From here, we plan to head off down the coast directly to Florida somewhere, depending on the wind.