The Pace Changes
02 December 2010 | Man-O-War Cay, Abacos, Bahamas
Sunny, Air Temp 82F, Water temp 79F, Wind N@10-15
Small sailboat built on Man-O-War Cay
We crossed the Little Bahamas Bank on Saturday (Nov 27th) from Mangrove Cay to Spanish Cay. The day was a beautiful day with warm winds blowing us eastward towards the Abacos. During the crossing we had taken lots of spray aboard meaning that in the sun, it had been reduced to a heavy layer of salt everywhere. We had forgotten just how salty things get here in the tropics, so we were glad to see a squall heading our way. Twice we slowed down to ensure a good rinsing. By days end we were just a few miles off Spanish Cay where we decided to call in to its marina. Tied up, we stretched our legs for the first time in three days. We were tied up with three other sailboats that had crossed with us. Next morning we checked in with Bahamas Customs, all done in the marina's bar. No question of her coming down and climbing down on to that little boat! With our Bahamas courtesy flag flying, we headed out in the fresh easterly breeze, down past Powell Cay, Manjack Cay and finally past Green Turtle Cay. We sailed out into Whale Channel, sometimes impassible for days when strong onshore winds build the swells into a "rage" with seas breaking completely across the channel. But today's light winds meant only a 3' swell and 2' wind waves, very comfortable. Back in Loggerhead Channel and we were into the Sea of Abaco, a large protected body of water created by cays and the offshore reef and the island of Great Abaco. In the shallow water, the clean sand reflected through the bright turquoise water, so clear that we watched the anchor settle into the sand 20' below us in Fishers Bay off Great Guana Cay. Ashore we walked across the cay and strolled the empty beach. Next morning we rented bikes from Dive Guana and toured the cay from south to north. In the north we found a new development under construction. With a huge marina dug out of the middle of the cay and buildings under construction everywhere, we wondered about how long it would last. The Bahamas are littered with failed mega-projects like this, leaving a great scar on the land as the ruins crumble slowly. Next morning we were off to Treasure Cay, across the Sea of Abaco. In the light easterlies, we drifted across the water, trying to stay in the shade. Anchored in the basin, we went ashore to explore. Although not too busy, it is a large development on what is claimed to be one of the ten best beaches in the world. Although I can't be called an expert, I can't argue with the claim with 10 miles of white sand beach forming a gentle arc on the warm and calm waters of the Sea of Abaco. We had lunch (cracked conch and grouper sandwich) on the beach, then wandered up the shore, wading in the warm waters. We're exploring where to leave the boat here for heading home for Christmas. We got a reasonable quote from Treasure Cay, and headed in to Marsh Harbor's Conch Inn. We fueled up, having missed fueling in Florida before we left, taking on 57 gallons of diesel, and got a quote, about the same as Treasure Cay. Leaving Marsh Harbour, we set sail for Man-O-War, just a short three miles across the Sea of Abaco. Here we picked up a mooring and went ashore. We settled our plans. We'll leave the boat on a mooring with Edwin's Boatyard II (not to be confused with Edwin's Boatyard I). They were just re-launching a 60' motor yacht, and preparing to take out a 50' Hinckley, so they appear to be a reputable yard. Now we can arrange flights. But in the mean time, we'll cruise the area for another week or so.
I have added a couple of albums to the photo gallery.