Landfalls in Paradise
04 March 2011 | Isla de Providencia, Colombia
Sunny, Air Temp 88F, Water temp 80F, Wind NE@5-8
Easy Rider!!!
Yesterday, our third day on the water, we watched as Isla Providencia rose out of the seas looking like a scene from South Pacific. The tiny island (two miles wide, four miles long) is mountainous and covered with lush tropical vegetation with small colorful buildings clinging to the shore hidden under palm trees.
As we approached, the seas dropped behind the reef extending six miles to the north of the island. Our charts (both paper and electronic) noted the area behind the reef as a "good anchorage" so we motored in. But we quickly realized that the charted depths and the reality were very different. So we turned around and continued in to Ste. Catalina harbour, another seven miles down.
Entering, we tried unsuccessfully to untangle the confusion of buoys. Some were charted, some not. So to be sure, we went one way and Seabird another. Both of our courses crossed reefs on the charts, but both of us found lots of water. Rounding up into the small harbor, we were surprised to see a fleet of ten other cruisers anchored from all parts of the globe. But tired, we just had dinner (roast Cornish Hens with new Jamaican potatoes and green beans and a cold Chardonnay) and turned in. This morning, refreshed after a good sleep, we called "Mr. Bush", the agent for clearing in. He told us he would be out at 3:00 pm, so we have lots of time to do things like this blog, cleaning up after a passage, etc.
In addition to Seabird, a Dutch boat arrived this morning and is waiting to clear in. They left Holland, cruised the coast of Brazil, Argentina, passed around Cape Horn, and up the west coast of South America. Their plan is now to do the east coast of North America, the North-west passage, and back through the Panama Canal to complete a figure-8 trip around North and South America. Very ambitious. We were congratulating ourselves on our progress, but it is mild by comparison.
One thing I found time to do while waiting for Mr Bush was contemplate our charts. Our paper chart, the latest edition, is taken from a survey by the Royal Navy, done in 1835. I knew that as we approached. But I thought I could rely more on the electronic charts with the latest in buoyage shown. Then I realized that the electronic charts were just a replica of the paper one, converted from fathoms to feet. I guess coral can grow in 176 years, accounting for the difference between the charts and reality. And I have no idea where they got the information for the buoys. Some are accurate, some don't exist in reality and some that do exist aren't shown. Oh well, It just means we have to be careful.
We are looking forward to heading ashore. Reports from other cruisers sound good. we'll stay here for a couple of days then head for Isla San Andres just 60 miles south of here.