Into the Dismal Swamp!
12 October 2006 | Norfolk Va
Jim Lea
Pretty cat boat in St Michaels
Yesterday we motored out of Indian Creek in a very hazy morning, and continued south. Again the wind was light, so we motored until mid morning when the wind began to rise. But it never really developed, so we motorsailed the whole way to Hampton Virginia. We had intended to go into an anchorage that was highly recommended, but it was a considerable distance off our route, and the weather forecast for today wasn't great, so we continued on right to Hampton, putting us on the doorstep of the Intracoastal Waterway which begins in Norfolk Harbor. We found a nice anchorage in Hampton's very cozy harbor, up by a city dock with a visitor's center and dinghy dock. We were anchored off the Hampton University, founded just after the Civil War for the education of the recently freed black slaves. It has obviously prospered and has a large and beautiful campus. We went ashore for a walk and came back with a few delicious Italian desserts purchased from a nearby restaurant. They finished our dinner of filet mignon and greek salad nicely. I forgot to mention yesterday that we held our Thanksgiving dinner one day late, as I forgot to put the chicken on to roast on Monday. So we had it (the oven isn't large enough to hold a turkey) last night.
This morning I attended to a few maintenance jobs, starting three and finishing two, before setting out for Norfolk and the Intracoastal. To reach Norfolk Harbor, up which we would motor into the ICW, we had to cross the very busy Hampton Roads. We listened on the VHF to a number of "sailboat off such-and-such , this is United States Navy Warship mumbles. Please alter your course to..." and we would look around to see if it was us. But luckily, not. After traveling down the harbor (or up it, I guess) into the Elizabeth River, we took a cutoff into the Dismal Swamp Canal. I have heard two very different explanations for the name. One is that the word 'dismal" was a former description of a swamp. The other description is that upon seeing it, someone's unsuspecting bride said she had never seen such a dismal swamp. In any case, George Washington surveyed the original canal, and his slaves dug a major portion of it originally. It has since been widened and deepened (6' min), but follows much the same route. In its primitive way it is really quite beautiful. We arrived at the northern lock (there are locks at each end, as the canal is about 10' above sea level) and went through with six other boats. Then we just tied up at a free dock just inside the lock, got out our bikes and biked around. In the evening we met a couple who tied up after us who both work for the Smithsonian Institute, and we went aboard their Morgan 44 for a drink and some munchies. Then home for Tuna and salad. But I dropped one of the pieces of fish (Jeannie's) overboard, so it was a light dinner. But we had Spumoni left over from last night for dessert.