A Glimpse into the Past
31 January 2012 | Ali Tupu
Sunny, min 74F, max 85F, water temp 79.5F, Wind NE@12-18
Funeral Procession
Yesterday we went ashore on Ali Tupu, the small island we're anchored off. We went in the morning because we knew there would be a funeral in the afternoon and didn't want to impose on it. Ashore we met the head priest, preparing for the funeral. Their religion is a sort of mixture between Christianity and their traditional one. The funeral was to be held in a Baptist church, and we provided some white paint to paint the cross. We also donated some bug spray for the ceremony (having been asked for it). Then we met the village Interpreter. About 70 years old, his english was excellent, learned when he worked for the American administration at the canal. I assumed (wrongly) that his title as Interpreter referred to his being able to greet and interpret between the locals and us visitors. He told us about the island, took us around it (200' long, 100' wide), showing us how they have been building it up to combat the rising ocean levels. We visited the school (vacation time here) and had a very informative visit to the island's "Congresso". The Congresso, held Monday and Friday evenings, is open to every villager. But the Sailar (Chief) is in charge. Inside the Congresso, benches were formed in a square with a clearing in the center where a hammock for the chief is slung. When the congresso meets, important issues are raised and discussed. The Silar's decision is communicated through song while in his hammock, and the "Interpreter" then interprets the Sialar's decision to all present. The Interpreter has a special seat, of which he is justly proud, having held his position since 1959. Sialars are elected for life by a free vote by all villagers. Inside the Congresso, Alberto showed us the fermenting "Sugar Wine" made yesterday, for an upcoming celebration. We think it is a sort of presentation into adulthood of village girls who have reached 12 years of age. The "wine" ferments for 9 days, then everyone gets to drink a cup. "Lots of talking" laughed Alberto. Like most villages, Ali Tupu is located on a small island just off the mainland. Huts are built on land that individuals "build" by gathering soil from the nearby mainland and collection coral boulders to form a breakwater. Alberto (the Interpreter) seems to be well off with three houses... one for sleeping, one for cooking and one for day-time use. And he is constructing a fourth... "just in case". When he came to the island, there were just three families and 22 people. Now the huts are spilling over the edges, crowded close together. Diet seems to consist of fish, small reef fish or the occasional small tuna, rice and local fruit (papayas, bananas, pineapples), yucca and a few vegetables. The local Tienda (store) held nothing fresh. In the afternoon we kept away out of respect. The graveyard is on the mainland, half a mile up a small river (their source of fresh water). In early afternoon we watched the procession (two large pangas with outboard motors) head across. The women were all traditionally dressed with bright red scarves. The priest was in the front of the lead panga, chanting his way across and up the river. Funerals are extended affairs here. The church ceremony was held shortly after one o'clock, and by two they were on their way to the graveyard. But the interpreter told us that it would not be until 5:30 pm that the body, wrapped in a hammock, would be lowered into the ground; 5:30 pm is a special hour for the Kuna. In mid-afternoon we went ashore on the mainland for a walk, and could clearly hear all the chatter, men, women and children, practically the entire island, as they waited. As Alberto told us, they are a traditional island, but he can see changes coming and wonders what the future holds. We do too.