Rum Cay Days!
23 February 2007 | Rum Cay, Bahamas
Jim Lea
We had a nice evening at Conception, arriving in late afternoon on Wednesday. When we were there previously, there were only a couple of boats. But this time we sailed into the West Bay anchorage where we found about 8 boats anchored as well as a large motor yacht, about 350' in length. Although we feel it was relatively new (less than 10 years) it looked like something out of the early 20th century, with its clipper bow, fantail stern and rakish masts that seemed to be ornamental. But it was very pretty, and we took a few photos. Its name was Haida V, which we thought odd, as the Haida were (or are) an indian tribe on the BC coast. Arriving in late afternoon, we walked on the beautiful beaches for a short while then returned to the boat for our dinner. Then yesterday (Thursday) we set out for Rum Cay, sailing in a 12-15 knot (ideal) following breeze. The anchorage at Rum Cay is filled with coral heads, but our chart showed a sector light as a navigation aid, so we set a course to approach it in the white (safe) sector. As we approached, we furled the sails, put on the motor and headed in. Suddenly, the motor slowed down on its own from 2500 to 2000 rpm. Nothing else. We tried it and it ran back up, but no reason for the sudden change. I checked the engine, all well, and sat and thought. Finally we decided that we had picked up something in the propeller, and slowed and put it in reverse. And sure enough, out spurted a chunk of netting and twine. We had installed a cutter on the prop last summer that is designed to cut things like that, and I think that it did its job, cutting us free of the major part, and leaving only a small hunk wrapped. Problem solved! So we returned to our approach on the white sector, except that we never did find the light. Apparently it was privately maintained and hasn't been operational for a few years. So we felt our way in to Rum Cay between the coral heads that infest the area. In the anchorage we met up with a boat we had been in Calabash with, a Hunter 33, Big Rosie (named after his wife, I think). We had chatted with them in Calabash, and when leaving, we chatted on the VHF that we would give them some mahi-mahi (this was before we began to fish). So when they heard us on the VHF talking with Tabitha, who called to say good-by just as we were reeling in, they reminded us of our promise. So we went over with some fish after we had anchored. The owner was proud to show us his brand new boat, complete with a very impressive list of problems. On board with him were two people, a retired naval captain and a girl from Huntsville Ontario, both of whom had just completed offshore sailing courses and were crewing on Big Rosie through an organization that matches up boats looking for crews and crews looking for boats. They were the marine equivalent of The Odd Couple, and it was a bit unusual chatting over a drink. Back on board, we had another mahi-mahi dinner, this time with a tapanade (olive flavored) sauce. Just as good as last nights. But we will freeze the rest, and take a break for a few days. Today (Friday) we woke to a reggae beat and a ship's horn blasting out! It was the mail boat from Nassau with people aboard come home to celebrate Rum Cay Day. As they sailed close past us (we may have anchored in the channel, but they went around us) the partiers all waved and carried on dancing. On our way ashore, we went over to chat with another Canadian boat that arrived just at sunset. They are from Vancouver. When we told them we were going skiing at Whistler next week, they asked if we would take a note to their daughter who works at Chateau Whistler. We said "Of course!". So we now have a small package for personal delivery to Canada! Ashore the music was blaring by 8:00 am, and we went ashore to "Who Let The Dog Out" blasting out, and immediately bringing to mind Karl Smith in Belize a few years ago. Karl, you would have loved it! Things slowly heated up through the morning, and when we were walking to the local marina, we were picked up by a group of the Nassau revelers. We chatted with them, and when they heard we had fresh fish, begged us for some. So we later brought some ashore for them. At noon, we went into a local restaurant and had a great lunch of we're not quite sure what, but excellent. In the afternoon, the official program began, starting with an invocation by the local minister. It was impressive, with her voice starting at a quiet level, and rising to a crescendo with arms flung aloft. Then we ended the 15 minute invocation with The Lords Prayer. Very impressive! Then a string of politicians (they're all the same everywhere), and an excellent school choir and band, led by a volunteer teacher from Toronto. It was great fun. In the evening when we headed back to the boat, we were serenaded by "Party 'till The Break of Day" blaring across the water. And I expect it will be literally true! But Rum Cay is the nicest Bahamian Island we have visited yet. It is very small, 5 miles by 2 miles with a permanent population of 60, bolstered now by 40 construction workers working on a new resort. Whether or not it sees completion is anyone's guess. It would be a real loss to see the cay change, but if it improves the lifestyle of the residents, then it is hard to argue with it. We were planning to leave tomorrow as there is some heavy weather coming, but now we are thinking of staying here for it. The protection will be pretty good, and we would like to see more of the cay before we leave. Tomorrow will tell the story!