Off to Eluthera!
02 April 2007 | Exuma Sound, Bahamas
Jim Lea
Well, the trip up to Orange Creek on Saturday was not a quiet sail. Although the winds were light when we set out, and forecast to stay light, we had two reefs in both the main and jib quite quickly, and shot up the coast of Cat Island averaging 7 knots. Another great sail. When we anchored it was apparent that the anchorage wasn't as protected as we expected it to be. But we put out lots of scope (anchor chain) and I went out with the dive bucket (a glass bottomed bucket that you can look through) and checked that the anchor was well set. We dinghied ashore, to find the store (reported to be Cat Island's best) closed, as was the laundromat, but both scheduled to open in the morning. So we went for a stroll up the road, and quickly saw all of Orange Creek's sights. We guess that there are about 25 to 30 people living there. And guess who comes from there??? Sidney Poitier!! But he wasn't home. Back aboard, we were able to BBQ for the first time in weeks, in the lighter winds. So we had steak with baked potatoes and, to add some Bahamian flavor, plaintains. But although the wind was down, there was a swell coming in to the anchorage that made for a rolly night. In the morning (Palm Sunday) we went ashore and found the store and laundromat open, so re-stocked our supply of fresh veggies and did a laundry. Then we went for a walk across a beach that was 2.5 miles of white sand with not a house or person on it. By late afternoon it was obvious that the swell wasn't going down, so we hoisted anchor and headed down to another tiny community (they are called settlements) called Bennet's Harbour. There we ran into Trumpeter, a Bristol 45.5 who we met in Thompson Bay. They are on roughly the same schedule as we are, but a few days behind, so we will probably keep bumping in to them all the way up to Maine where they keep their boat for the summer .But Bennets Harbour, although not entirely swell-free, was a lot better than Orange Creek, so we had a better night. For dinner, curried shrimp with basmati rice and more plantains, with another nice chardonnay. Today (Monday) we are off to Eleuthera, a sail of about 55 miles, so we left eatly (7:30 am). Just a few miles out is Little San Salvadore, or as it is now known, Half Moon Cay. It has been bought by Holland-American Cruise Lines, and they heve converted it into a stop for their ships. They have built a whole bunch of stuff ashore, and have sea-doos and stuff for the passengers to use. But there is only one anchorage, and they will let cruisers anchor, but not land if a cruise ship is in. So, as there was a ship in, we just sailed by, taking a couple of pictures. The anchorage would be exposed to the swell, anyway, so might not have been too comfortable. Passing Little San Salvadore (it seems every cay in this area was called San Salvadore at one time or another) we are now heading up to Rock Sound on Eleuthera. Eleuthera is a long island stretching about 100 miles in a north-westerly direction. We will spend a few days travelling up the western shore then into Spanish Wells at the top where we plan to spend a few days. Then a 60 mile jump across to the Abacos Islands. For dinner tonight, very fresh Mahi-Mahi! I caught one just of the southern tip of Eleuthera so we will have it grilled tonight with rice& beans and plantains.