Wind, thy name is Treachery!
30 May 2007 | Tennants Harbor, Maine
Jim Lea
Yesterday (Tuesday) was a tough day! What had been forecast as N-W 15 that should have given us a nice beam reach as we ran N-E up the coast of Southern Maine, turned into a north wind that was both gusty and shifty!
We set out from Isles of Shoals at 7:00 am as we wanted to make good time, planning to take advantage of the (expected) N-W wind, and motored out of the anchorage in the filling wind. And it did fill from the N-W as we hoisted sail and set our course. But no more than an hour later, it had clocked to the north and was blowing 25 knots.
We tucked in two reefs in the main, and furled some jib to get under control, only to have the wind drop to 5 knots! Reefs out, close hauled, wind back up! Reefs back in, and the wind recovers for a while, then drops, leaving us wallowing in a short steep chop. And so went the day. Finally we decided to motor-sail into shore, to get out of the chop.
As we headed to shore, we began to look for alternative destinations, as it was apparent that we wouldn't make Five Islands that evening. Closing on the shore, where we were in the lee of the land, and flat water, we found ourselves off Kennebunkport, summer home to George H. W. Bush! But at noon, it was too early to head in.
Inshore, in flat waters, the wind seemed to have gained some stability, so out came the jib, off went the motor, and we headed E-N-E, close hauled. Our first potential anchorage was Cape Porpoise Harbor, a fishing harbor. I would like to visit there some time, but the sailing had become good and it was still early. Next we passed Biddeford Pool, another stop that interests me. Still early, we decided that in the flatter water we would push on to Casco Bay where we had a number of options for the night.
As we came up on Cape Anne and began to wind our way through West Cod Ledge Channel, back came the wind. Reefs back in, we pushed on.
By now we were getting tired, it was late afternoon, so Jewell Island became our destination. Clearing Cape Anne we were able to lay the entrance to Jewell close hauled in the dropping breeze, so out came the reefs (for the last time) and, sailed up in what ended as a beautiful, but exhausting day.
Coasting into Jewell, a beautiful anchorage just six miles from downtown Portland, we were amazed to see we had the anchorage to ourselves. And so ended the day, sitting in the cockpit in the warm sun in a flat calm snug anchorage.
This morning (Wednesday), we started out early as we want to get as far east as possible. We would like to be at the boatyard on Mount Desert Island (MDI) on Friday, and tomorrow's weather does not sound helpful for heading east; north-east winds 15-20 with gusts to 30. So we may not make much, if any progress tomorrow. That would make it very difficult to get to MDI by Friday, meaning we would not be able to talk with the yard manager until Monday.
We set out this morning early, hoping to get to Penobscott Bay tonight. Then if we can make any progress at all tomorrow, we may be able to do it.
In the flat calm and bright morning sun, we motored out of our beautiful anchorage and turned east. Crossing the mouth of Casco Bay, we passed familiar landmarks where we have spent three summers cruising. As we cleared Cape Small, Seguin Island and its towering cliffs came into view. Passing close to its southern tip, still in 200' of water, we bore off to clear Damariscove Island, passing the mouth of the Kennebec River, then the Sheepscott, where we kept Estelle during our first summer.
Then as we headed across Muscongus Bay, Monhegan Island came into view. We have always wanted to visit Monhegan, but somehow have never made it. Perhaps this fall. at Old Man Ledge, we headed north-east, entering Penobscott Bay. Running up the bay, we passed Tennants Harbor, our intended anchorage for the night, continuing on through Muscle Ridge Channel and out into the upper bay.
Across the bay, passing Fox Island Thoroughfare, we dropped the sails and motored into Pulpit Harbor, a favorite of ours, where we picked up a mooring belonging to "Glide" who we met last fall in Beaufort N.C. They are currently in the San Blas Islands in Panama, so won't be needing it for the night! All day we saw only three sailboats and two motorboats, excluding fishermen. Sailing season is still a few weeks away here.
The forecast for tomorrow is not encouraging. Unless it improves, we will be spending the day here. But as we learned yesterday, forecasts aren't always right, so we'll just get up and see. One long day would have us in MDI, where our boatyard is.