Down the Coast
08 September 2007 | Ebencook Harbor, Maine
Jim Lea
Yesterday (Friday) we left Bucks Harbor and motor-sailed down Penobscott Bay. With the light wind in the south, we were just able to keep the sails filled. But the swells out of the south from stronger winds a few days ago meant that we did a lot of plowing into waves, and made it slow going. To get out of the swell, we headed into a sheltered passage, down Owls Head Channel and, tired of the rolling, we headed into Dix Harbor for lunch. It isn't really a harbor at all, but a sheltered spot between three islands. We picked up a vacant mooring and had a great fish chowder we bought in tiny Bucks Harbor the previous day, and some foccacia bread. One of the islands we were anchored beside was once the site of a major stone quarry. But today all that is left to remind a visitor of the past is a huge granite block wharf and a flooded quarry. It must have been a very difficult life for the stonecutters in such a remote place. After lunch, we headed back out into the swells, and passed Port Clyde, our initial planned destination, and sailed out into Muscongus Bay, which seems to us to have the highest density of lobster pots in Maine... and that takes some doing! Half way across, we dropped anchor in Harbor Island, a beautiful and remote spot where we have stayed with Sarah in past. But it was too late to go ashore, so we just tidied up (we have not yet really gotten everything properly stowed). Then we had supper, pan-fried halibut with a (fresh) peach salsa, and.... you guessed it, a nice cold chardonnay. Then this morning, the last day of forecast winds that were on our nose, we headed out and plowed through the other half of Muscongus Bay, past Pemaquid Point, through Fisherman's Passage and sailed quietly into Boothbay Harbor. Our first stop was to re-fuel, and took on 79 gallons of diesel. Then we picked up a mooring at the yacht club (a favorite stop for us) and took the dinghy into town. I did some internet stuff, Jeannie shopped, and we wandered around doing touristy things. Back at the boat, we dropped the mooring, headed up Townsend Gut (which separates Southport Island from the mainland)and passed through our first bridge of the season into Ebencook Harbor. It's not really a harbor, but consists of a large open body with three fingers cutting deep into Southport Island. And we ran into the most easterly one, Love Cove, which is the only one not filled with moorings. We anchored, then took out the dinghy for a spin. Some day when I can't think of anything to write, I'll write about the new dinghy. Great!!! A quiet evening of grilled salmon with couscous and greek salad.