Folkboat moored off Hog Island
September 3rd, Prettymarsh Cove
In mid-morning, we had enough water to clear the bar and leave The Mud Hole. With still a couple of hours of current opposing us, we headed out and along the coast towards Northeast Harbor on Mt Desert Island.
With our course S-W and in a SSW wind, we hoisted the main and began to motorsail. But after a few minutes we decided to tack south and sail far enough offshore to lay our course. So an hour later we tacked back and enjoyed a nice afternoon sail with the current now pushing us westward. In the late afternoon light, we dropped the sails and motored in to Northeast Harbor where we picked up a mooring for the night. Ashore we stretched our legs and bought a few supplies for supper, then back aboard. In the morning we motored around to Somes Sound to the John Williams Boatyard. We stopped for the day to allow the yard to re-install our Lombardini genset, back from the supplier where it was shipped to correct the third major problem in the first year. Lets hope for better performance in future.
The stop also gave us the opportunity to use our car to re-stock with supplies.
Back aboard, we just motored up to nearby Somesville Harbor for the night.
Next morning we were off for more cruising in the beautiful late summer weather. In the morning calm we motored out the Western Way and past Bass Harbor Head and into Blue Hill Bay. Our plan was to head for Blue Hill, but with the light airs, we slowly worked our way up the bay, and were off Prettymarsh Harbor in mid-afternoon. Here we anchored, landed for a nice walk, then a short dinghy exploration trip and the day was over.
Blue Hill Bay
September 6, Pulpit Hbr.
From Prettymarsh Cove, we had another drifter and in mid-afternoon were tied up at the Kollidgwidgewaulk Yacht Club. We filled our water tanks then picked up a mooring for the night. With a late afternoon high tide we were able to dinghy in to the Blue Hill dinghy dock. It dries out at low tide and is accessible only at half-tide or more. We strolled through the town, finding yet more essential supplies, and a few non-essential, leaving the dinghy dock just as the bottom began to make its presence known.
Next morning we got an earlier than usual start, about 9am, to try to catch the last of the falling tide as we sailed down Blue Hill Bay. In light headwinds, we just motored, through Sand Island Passage and into Jerricho Bay. Then into Merchant Row, we rounded up and motored into the McGlatherty's Island anchorage. McGlatherty's is a favorite stop, and we headed ashore to hike the trails for a couple of hours. Lots of boats, sail, kayaks, and motorboats.
The picture is of the grave site of the last known inhabitants of McGlatherty's. It must have been a very bleak existence.
From McGlatherty's we headed out into East Penobscott Bay and enjoyed a nice breeze until mid-morning, when it died leaving us being swept out the bay. So we motorsailed into Fox Island Thorofare and anchored for lunch off the pretty village of North Haven. After lunch we went ashore and wandered its quiet streets for an hour.
Leaving the thoroughfare the wind returned giving us a nice brisk sail to Pulpit Harbor. Rounding up in the now 20 knots of wind, we ran in finding a dozen visitors like us, a surprise for the late season. We picked up a vacant mooring and headed for shore again.
In the breezy evening, our new Dickeson BBQ proved its worth, holding its flame in the windy harbor. Nights are now closing in early with temperatures dropping quickly, so that we are now eating dinner below most evenings, and starting the mornings with the Espar.
Our good cruising buddies Nancy & Bruce Montgomery, Bucks Hbr.
September 9, John Williams Boatyard, Somes Sound
From Pulpit Harbor, we headed out for Bucks Harbor at the top of Penobscott Bay. We set out with 2 reefs in the main as the forecast was for 25 knot southerlies. Out on the bay we found a very different picture. We quickly shook the reefs our and worked our way north between the islands in warm sunshine and a 10-15 knot breeze. By noon we were drifting off Hog Island and anchored for lunch. Its name doesn't suggest its beauty with a wide sandy beach and gently sloping shore.
Nice powerboat,moored off Hog Island
The breeze never returned so we just motored the last 5 miles to Bucks Harbor where we met with our old friends, Bruce and Nancy Montgomery. They had driven from their home near Bath to have dinner with us.
We met them ashore, wandered the deserted roads, sat on the veranda of the now deserted yacht club and talked, reminiscing about past shared adventures. We traveled with them to Jamaica, Panama and through the Western Caribbean, so had lots to talk about. The warm evening meant dinner in the cockpit, Chicken Teriyaki with fresh local vegetables and Nancy's delicious cookies with fruit for dessert. As they left, we still had lots to talk about, both past and future adventures. They will be heading south again this winter while we head to Whistler BC for a winter of family and skiing.
Wooden Boat School Dock House
Next morning we motored out into a flat calm Eggemoggin Reach, so we just motored down the reach. We decided to head into Center Harbor for lunch where we picked up a mooring and took a harbor tour in the dinghy. Center Harbor has a reputation as the wooden boat capital of the USA east coast. And it is well deserved. It is also the home of the famous Brooklyn Boatyard, formerly owned by Joel White and now run by his son, maintaining its reputation for high quality work on wooden boats. The evidence was there in the harbor as the gleaming paint and varnish sparkled in the sun.
After lunch we ran out around the Torry Islands and in to Ridley Cove, home to The Wooden Boat School. We picked up a guest mooring, dinghied ashore and walked up to the School's workshop where Jeannie's brother Fraser was taking a course in traditional dory construction. Taking a break, Fraser showed us around the School. Then we went into their very interesting store where we failed to resist the urge to purchase some very nice mementos. Then we toured the rest of the School's facilities, and headed to the boat for dinner with Fraser.
This was the last evening of our cruise, and it could not have been nicer. Another warm evening, and we sat in the cockpit watching all the activity in the harbor as three windjammers came in to anchor and small Hershoff 12-1/2's drifted among the moorings. A beautiful end to a great summer of cruising.
Wooden Boat School Anchorage
Wooden Boat School Anchorage
Wooden Boat School training boat
Wooden Boat School
Jeannie and her brother Fraser Robidoux at the Wooden Boat School
With Fraser at the Wooden Boat School workshop.
Next morning, we woke to a thick fog, and groped our way the 25 miles back to Northeast Harbor. Just as we arrived, the fog lifted, allowing us to tie up at Clifton Dock and top off the fuel tanks for winter. Then the short run around to Somes Sound, where we drifted up the Sound to the boatyard. Cruise complete.
So Estelle is now away for winter and we are spending the beautiful fall in PEI, then off to BC for the winter.
Next summer, Plan A is Nova Scotia and Newfoundland.