The Circumnavigation of Shelter Island
21 September 2007 | Coecles Harbor, NY
Jim Lea
Give this mark a wide berth!
On Wednesday, we left Coecles Harbor about 11 am, after exploring the harbor by dinghy. We went up to the only marina in the area, filled the dinghy with gas (it uses a lot more than our old 6 hp) and then set out for Sag Harbor, about 5 miles away. In the light winds, still from the east, we just motored around Mashomack Point on the southern head of Shelter Island, and across to Sag Harbor. In the light winds, we anchored outside the breakwater, as the tiny harbor was full of moorings with no room for anchoring, and there were no spare moorings. Anchor well set, we took the dinghy in to the dinghy dock at the Sag Harbor Yacht Club, and wandered through the town, which is really just a village. With the warm sun and hint of fall, we just took our time strolling main street, stopping for ice cream, then posting a few cards, and the standard shopping stop. By mid-afternoon it was time to leave for our anchorage for the night. Back aboard, we raised the anchor and headed up the Shelter Island Channel to West Neck Harbor, about half way round Shelter Island. As we looked at the chart for details for entering, we realized how narrow the entry was. But it was deep, about 20' under our keel as we brushed by the sandbar on our port side. The green (portside) mark is firmly planted in the sand, about 20' from the water's edge. Inside, we found three other boats anchored, with room for at least 50, so we easily settled in to our spot for the night. Safely anchored, we dinghied to the nearby beach for a walk, then settled in for the night. Again the evening was warm until sunset, when it cooled quickly. For dinner, we had grilled tuna (from Block Island) with a spicy peach salsa, sweet potatoes and fresh green beans. The beans were excellent, but not close to the ones Dave Ashby gave us this summer from his garden! Thursday morning I was woken at six am by the anchor alarm. Getting up to check (it goes off if the boat moves more than 0.02 miles, or 100') I saw that the wind had finally swung (as forecast) into the west. And with it, the temperature on the last day of summer rose so that for the first morning, we didn't need the Espar! Breakfast in the cockpit (fruit with yogurt and granola, toast, coffee) we again wandered the beach, and then off on the next leg of our circumnavigation. This time our stop was Derring Harbor, a small village on the north end of the island. Shelter Island (about 5 miles each way) is tucked between the north and south necks of the tail of Long Island. So there is a ferry link from Greenport on north neck to Derring, and from the south shore to Sag Harbor. So we passed between the three ferries running constantly on their 10 minute runs between Greenport and Derring, turned into the tiny harbor, and called the Shelter Island Yacht Club for a mooring for our short visit. Ashore we looked at their fleet of 12 Etchells, reminding us of the fun we had racing in our fleet at CYC. Then we headed in to the village, taking some pictures of the elegant gingerbread homes, then buying a few supplies, including some excellent Morbier cheese. Then after wandering the village, headed back to the boat, and off on our final leg of the circumnavigation. Hoisting the main on the mooring, we motored out of Derring Harbor, and pulled out the jib to complete our circumnavigation by sailing the last 8 miles back to Coecles Harbor. Back in Coecles Harbor, we picked up a mooring from the Rams Head Inn, an old, elegant inn on the shore. They put out 12 moorings for the free use of anyone coming in for dinner, as we planned to do. For dinner we started with a warm goat cheese tart, and for a main course, I had duck, and Jeannie had ravioli with crab and lobster in a mushroom sauce. Both were excellent! and for dessert, a compote of local berries and fruit. And for wine, we sampled some local Long Island wines. There were only six other tables occupied, and we recognized boaters at two others. Back aboard, we settled in for a quiet warm night for the last night of summer. Today we'll head over to Three Mile Harbor and explore it to complete our cruise of the tail of Long Island. Then tomorrow, across to Branford Conn to visit Anne and Dave Miller.