The Voyage of S/V Estelle

Cruising the British Columbia Coast

30 September 2018 | Vancouver Rowing Club
10 September 2018 | The Laughing Oyster, Okeover Landing
08 September 2018 | Von Donop Inlet, Desolation Sound
08 September 2018 | Port McNeill, BC
08 September 2018 | Port McNeill, BC
16 August 2018
16 August 2018 | Turnbull Cove, BC
15 August 2018 | Pierre's Echo Bay Resort
15 August 2018 | Kwatsi Bay Marina, The Broughtons
15 August 2018 | Potts Lagoon, West Cracroft Island, BC
05 August 2018 | Kwatsi Bay
01 August 2018 | Big Bay
01 August 2018 | Von Donop Inlet
27 July 2018 | Lancelot Inlet, Desolation Sound Marine Park
09 July 2018 | Vancouver Rowing Club
04 June 2018 | Whistler BC
08 February 2018 | Whistler, BC
19 November 2017 | Vancouver, BC
04 August 2017 | Van Isle Marina
25 July 2017 | San Juan Islands, Wa USA

Desolation Sound Cruising, Part 1

01 August 2018 | Von Donop Inlet
Sunny, Hot, Light Winds
Wootton Bay Anchorage

After a night in the crowded anchorage of Squirrel Cove we decided to seek out quieter quarters, not an easy task in Desolation Sound in mid-summer.
Captain George Vancouver might have been a great explorer and accomplished navigator, but he did not have much of an eye for beauty. Either that, or he was deeply depressed when he named Desolation Sound. On June 15, 1797, he was drifting down what is now known as Lewis Channel, with no bottom in range on a rainy night and wrote: "This area afforded not a single prospect that was pleasing to the eye, the smallest recreation on shore, no animal or vegetable food." The waters were too deep for anchoring and with the steep shores, no prospect for sustaining a settlement ashore. Finally, drifting up Teakern Arm, he found an anchorage and an endless supply of fresh water ashore in the falls at its head. Here he based his surveys of what is now known as Desolation Sound and the Discovery Islands.
Our plan for exploring the area was much simpler, thanks to Vancouver's work and that of the Canadian Hydrographic Service.
Waking in the warm morning in Squirrel Cove, we decided to take the dinghy over to the Squirrel Cove General Store to top up our supplies. Not a superstore, but still with a good variety of fresh and frozen produce, plus a quart of 2 cycle engine oil, we left with bulging bags.
But one night in Squirrel was enough. We decided to seek out quieter anchorages, and ventured south into Malispina Inlet (not to be confused with Malispina Channel) and up into Lancelot Inlet. Although the anchorages we passed had boats in them, we glided into the Susan Islets anchorage to find it empty. Anchoring, we called our friends Kevin and Jared Fogolin, neighbours in Whistler, to tell them where we were.
Kevin and Jared were arriving for a weekend of fishing to celebrate Jared's completion of a course in forest fire fighting. Soon we were all having dinner aboard Estelle and discussing the fishing strategy.
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Estelle in Susan Islets

In the morning, Kevin and Jared were off fishing. We had a more casual start and did some exploration by dinghy through nearby Theodosia Inlet. We found another nice quiet anchorage with only one boat in it, and a logging camp base on the shore. A short walk and we were back aboard and getting underway in another hot sunny day. We agreed to meet Kevin and Jared somewhere closer to their fishing areas, so headed down Lancelot Inlet in the light airs, exploring the anchorages as we passed.
Although not our favorite anchorages, we decided that Squirrel Cove was the best anchorage to meet kevin and Jared, so we spent the morning quietly sailing back northward. Pulling in, we were pleasantly surprised to find the anchorage just about empty. With the anchor set, we went in search of a trail through the woods to nearby Von Donop Inlet. After a few false starts, we tied the dinghy to a tree and set off. After a rough 2.5 km we were looking out on another beautiful anchorage. As we stood looking at the scene, we were met by another couple who had also hiked over. In chatting, we discovered that they too owned a Bristol like ours. An older model, it still had many of the same characteristics as ours. And we soon discovered that we had cruised the same areas on the US east coast and Bahamas. After realizing that we had been chatting for 45 minutes, we contacted Kevin to tell him that we were late and would be back at the boat shortly. Kevin replied that they were still fishing, no luck so far... pasta for dinner!In the evening, Kevin and Jared launched their paddleboards and explored the anchorage and a small lagoon draining into Squirrel Cove through a tiny riffle.
Next morning we all set off fishing. Running just a few miles up Lewis Channel, we began fishing at the mouth of Teakern Arm. Kevin's boat has all the necessary equipment, downriggers, etc. Trolling up and down, we hooked a few dogfish which we released, then "the Big One" hit the lure. After Jared fought it to the boat, Kevin netted it and we had dinner. A few minutes later, we had a second, larger chinook salmon in the boat, our quota for the day.
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Fish for dinner!

Back in Squirrel we had a late lunch and Kevin and Jared were off again in search of ling cod.
Jeannie decided to give Kevin's paddleboard a try. I set off in the dinghy to accompany her. Paddling on her knees, she decided that she wanted to try it standing. In the dinghy I tried to stabilize the board for her, but not to be. After a few minutes of wobbling, she decided to carry on kneeling. As we were trying to get her up, another dinghy approached asking if we needed help. We thanked him but said we were fine. He asked if we were the ones on the boat with the Charlottetown registration. When we said we were, he said his grandfather had been a doctor in Charlottetown and he spent summers there. When he said his grandfather's name was Tidmarsh, I looked at him and said "Hello Gordon, it's been a long time!" In fact more than 50 years. I had known him from sailing in Charlottetown in my teens! So Jeannie paddled off and we drifted through the anchorage talking. It can take some time to cover 50 years.

Back aboard, we had the best fish I think I have ever tasted... fresh Chinook salmon on the BBQ with Kevin's "secret" rub. An excellent day!
Next morning, Kevin and Jared were off again. We agreed to meet in Von Dono Inlet, an anchorage on the north side of Cortes Island. We had not been there except hiking over from Squirrel and looked forward to it.
Another trip to the Squirrel Cove General Store to top up our supplies and we were off... drifting north in Lewis Channel. Rounding the top of Cortes into Sutil Channel the wind died, so on came the engine. And as we headed for our anchorage we watched a pod of humpback whales cross our bow. Inside, we settled down into another beautiful anchorage. We anchored near Canti, who we met on our way north in Texeda Island.
Settled in, we launched our new inflatable kayak and toured the anchorage. I put on my bathing suit in case of some sort of "operator error", but, all was well.
After that, not satisfied that we had done oursselves enough damage, we tackled the paddleboards again.
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As evening closed in, Kevin and Jared rafted up after another blank day. More pasta for dinner. We had cold salmon, again excellent, but that was the end of the fish.
In the morning, Kevin and Jared headed off for a few hours of fishing then the trip home. Reports were that they caught their limit, so they went home happy. Leaving Lund at 2 pm, they were back in Squamish at 6 pm.
We met with Paul and Kirsty from Canti and went ashore for a hike, trekking 2.5 km to the head of a small lagoon off out inlet. A short rest and we headed back. An afternoon of kayaking and swimming in the heat, and it was cocktail hour (not that anyone drinks cocktails). In the afternoon, Gord Tidmarsh and his wife Carol also came into the anchorage, so we convened a cocktail hour on Estelle with Paul, Kirsty, Gord and Carol. Great fun.
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Tomorrow, off to Gorge Harbour for fuel, supplies, and to meet Howard and Lynn Bradbrooke on Swift Current.
Comments
Vessel Name: Estelle
Vessel Make/Model: Bristol 41.1
Hailing Port: Charlottetown, PEI
Crew: Jeannie & Jim Lea
About: Flag Counter
Extra: After cruising the east coast of North America for 10 years, from Nova Scotia to Panama, it's time for a change. Estelle will be cruising the coast of British Columbia and Alaska beginning in 2017.
Estelle's Photos - The Voyage of S/V Estelle (Main)
14 Photos
Created 5 August 2018
5 Photos
Created 1 August 2018
62 Photos
Created 10 July 2018
28 Photos
Created 19 November 2017
Our cruise of the Gulf Islands and San Juan Islands in May & June, 2017
84 Photos
Created 21 July 2017
Our first BC cruise, from Pender Harbour to Strait Marine in Steveston BC
26 Photos
Created 27 April 2017
Estelle's arrival in Vancouver
8 Photos
Created 31 October 2016
63 Photos
Created 28 July 2016
Our first year cruising... Exumas, Bahamas.
11 Photos
Created 28 July 2015
69 Photos
Created 24 July 2015
17 Photos
Created 31 May 2015
8 Photos
Created 12 April 2015
25 Photos
Created 4 December 2014
3 Photos
Created 30 November 2014
20 Photos
Created 20 November 2014
5 Photos
Created 20 November 2014
13 Photos
Created 13 November 2014
20 Photos
Created 9 November 2014
Pics of our trip from Mount Desert Islans to the Saint John River in July 2014.
64 Photos
Created 14 August 2014
15 Photos
Created 9 May 2014
60 Photos
Created 20 September 2013
18 Photos
Created 3 April 2013
50 Photos
Created 14 January 2013
104 Photos
Created 12 December 2012
40 Photos
Created 1 December 2012
23 Photos
Created 10 November 2012
19 Photos
Created 25 October 2012
14 Photos
Created 13 March 2012
47 Photos
Created 6 March 2012
59 Photos
Created 1 March 2012
70 Photos
Created 27 February 2012
107 Photos
Created 21 January 2012
Nov/Dec 2011
48 Photos
Created 17 December 2011
San Blas Islands
4 Photos
Created 17 December 2011
58 Photos
Created 17 November 2011
23 Photos
Created 29 October 2011
22 Photos
Created 26 October 2011
49 Photos
Created 10 May 2011
52 Photos
Created 29 March 2011
18 Photos
Created 18 March 2011
18 Photos
Created 18 March 2011
Feb, 2011
67 Photos
Created 11 February 2011
33 Photos
Created 7 February 2011
34 Photos
Created 4 December 2010
33 Photos
Created 4 December 2010
62 Photos
Created 17 November 2010
39 Photos
Created 15 November 2010
41 Photos
Created 31 October 2010
25 Photos
Created 4 October 2010
17 Photos
Created 4 October 2010
15 Photos
Created 3 October 2010
13 Photos
Created 1 October 2010
9 Photos
Created 1 October 2010
14 Photos
Created 1 October 2010
Some photos at John Williams Boatyard as we prepare for departure.
7 Photos
Created 14 September 2010
Our trip to various BC ski resorts Jan-Feb 2010
69 Photos
Created 7 February 2010
August/Sept in Maine
58 Photos
Created 29 August 2009
Our trip from Norfolk Va to Mount Desert Island, June 20th to July 7th, 2009. Gerard Watts aboard as crew!
89 Photos
Created 8 July 2009
11 Photos
Created 26 April 2009
65 Photos | 2 Sub-Albums
Created 22 March 2009
65 Photos | 2 Sub-Albums
Created 11 February 2009
43 Photos
Created 29 January 2009
42 Photos
Created 29 January 2009
5 Photos
Created 23 December 2008
27 Photos
Created 22 December 2008
Our trip from Maine to Miami
108 Photos
Created 19 December 2008
Pics from Jan to June 2008, Bahamas to Maine
50 Photos
Created 18 June 2008
Trip south from Maine to Bahamas, Sept-Dec 2007
42 Photos
Created 26 December 2007
14 Photos
Created 25 December 2007
4 Photos
Created 21 August 2007
These are pictures of The Hermitage on Cat Island, Bahamas. It was built single-handedly by Faather Jerome who was sent out by the Church of England to rebuild churches destroyed in the hurricanes in the early 20th century. He then converted to catholicism and built a number of Roman Catholic churches until he sought and received permission to build this hermitage where he spent the remainder of his life.
10 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 24 June 2007
1 Photo
Created 24 June 2007
21 Photos
Created 23 June 2007
3 Photos
Created 12 June 2007
These pictures were taken while on Long Island, Bahamas, in February, 2007
6 Photos
Created 11 March 2007
This album contains some photos of our time in the Jumentos Islands, in the Bahamas
11 Photos
Created 11 March 2007
3 Photos
Created 11 March 2007
9 Photos
Created 11 March 2007
4 Photos
Created 11 March 2007
19 Photos
Created 11 March 2007
18 Photos
Created 11 March 2007
13 Photos | 2 Sub-Albums
Created 11 March 2007
9 Photos
Created 11 March 2007
5 Photos
Created 11 March 2007
18 Photos
Created 11 March 2007