When Hurricane Jimena was forecast to be the first tropical cyclone to veer northward into the Sea of Cortez hundreds of worried cruisers began monitoring the storm several times a day. We checked the track daily and when she hit cat 5, the most intense category for a hurricane, we were relieved to see that a high pressure ridge over northwestern mainland Mexico was pushing Jimena over to the Baja side of the sea.
Monday August 31st the storm had chosen a path for the Pacific side of the Baja peninsula. We breathed a sigh of relief. The sheer size of the storm had us concerned that we might get some storm swell or that even perhaps an edge of the storm could graze San Carlos with 30kt winds and some rain. We had contemplated hauling Estrella if this storm was going to be a direct hit and putting her up on stands in the Marina Seca in San Carlos. This would cost us a couple hundred dollars but dry storage is generally considered the safest place to be during a cyclone. Marinas are often considered safe, unless they are poorly protected in which case its safer to anchor out. A marina is only safe if it doesn't break apart and send large boats and concrete docks slamming into you during the storm.
On Monday we spoke to Francisco at the Marina San Carlos office and he confirmed our belief that there were many slips available. There were 5 slips to choose from on B dock but Francisco warned us that they would fill up as the storm approached. I didn't want to go into the marina if we didn't have to. We already spent close to $600 in marina fees and I knew if we went in we'd have stayed a while.
Tuesday morning we awoke to Carla from Tambaran calling Laura from Palawig but identifying herself as "Marina San Carlos".
"Palawig, Palawig, Palawig, this is Marina San Carlos." She said
"Um, Tambaran? This is Palawig." Replied Laura.
"You wanna go to one-eight?"
Like everybody else out here we eagerly followed to eavesdrop on them. Carla told Laura that she could bring Palawig into B16 and Chuck from Pura Vida would take B14. We had our eyes on B14 so this was a wake up call. Kris and I discussed the merits of not going in. If the storm was intense our worst case scenario was that we could flee for marina real and just take an empty slip by the condos there. There is a private community of homes that have docks and many of the homes are either for sale or belong to non-boat owners. The downside to that would be that we'd have no power hook up and might have some drama if something goes wrong. Another option would be to just hold out and take one of the more expensive 50' slips in Marina San Carlos. But it started to sound like all the slips would be taken if we didn't act.
I called Francisco and asked him how many slips he had left and he told me we could move into slip B5. When I asked what else he had he reiterated "B5" so I quickly snatched it up and we started pulling the anchor up to go in.
NOAA still had us very confident that the storm would pass so we didn't go crazy stripping sails and making the boat "hurricane ready."
I furled some more sheet around the genoa and left the big reacher up. The nice thing about a furling reacher with a spectra luff is that it can come down without unfurling the sail in any weather.
All day we watched as the marina filled up and people frantically pulled their sails off and lashed their mainsails down with copious amounts of rope. Stripping dodgers, biminis, and full boat awnings. The professional mexican crews of all the sport fishers and charter boats were tying every piece of rope in San Carlos to every hard point on the boats and creating spiderwebs of lines to the dock.
I was still confident that we didnt need to prep for an actual hurricane. My hubris might have been a result of our surviving Henriette and this storm being forecast to miss us and be "only a tropical storm".
The rains started and brought 30kt winds, I decided to take down the reacher, took two seconds and it was down. As the winds increased I added a couple more docklines. Really that was the extent of our prep.
We have been really pleased with the newfound dryness we have enjoyed as a result of replacing our teak decks with fiberglass. Sadly we should have torn up our coachroof as well. The chubascos were short-lived downpours but by the time this torrent had been dumping on us for 8 hours our coachroof was showing its leaks. The butterfly hatch was dripping, 2 through bolts for the traveller and much of the eyebrow were dribbling merrily into the boat. Kristina had the wherewithal to stick little containers under the leaks. Our mainmast is still lacking a mast boot, a fact we had happily ignored until it became a little shower into the boat right by the bed.
The inside of the boat was soaking wet and the winds were starting to whip up to a gusty tropical storm force. I doubt the winds got up past 50 knots but the duration was unbelievable. At 0200 I woke up and decided to check the National Hurricane Center site to find out where Jimena was and much to my amazement the storm track showed that her current location was across the sea over Mulege on the Baja peninsula. It also showed that the storm was going to turn left and head out into the pacific and die.
I scrolled down to the radar image because despite what the National Hurricane Center was telling me I was pretty darn sure there was a tropical storm over our heads. The Infra Red Radar picture showed clear skies over Baja and an enormous red storm over the top of San Carlos. I always knew that they could be wrong about the path of a storm but I never, for one moment, considered that they could post an incorrect current location when the radar image so clearly contradicts their tracking model.
Since our slip in the marina was well protected from the easterly winds and the rain was just soaking our boat I attempted to go back to sleep. The following morning I awoke before Kristina and took a hike with Laura from Palawig (a dock neighbor) and we hiked up to the newly constructed road to take pictures of the anchorage and see what the night had wrought. Much of the gravel road had washed out and was a river. In fact the door to B dock had a 2" deep waterfall running through it.
We were sad to see that a couple of abandoned boats had gone up on the beach but glad to see that the occupied ones were still safe and sound.
It turned out that the storm parked itself 40 miles offshore from San Carlos and inundated us with 27 inches of rain in 24 hours. 50% more rain that the record set in 1940. When we drove around to survey the devastation we were shocked. People on their boats in the Marina Seca San Carlos storage yard reported a 4' deep river coursing through the yard. Boats were knocked over (though 98% of the boats in dry storage were fine) the road to San Carlos proper was an impassable rapids. All of the power lines and poles down the beach side of the road were down, streetlights were down. The upriver side of the road was blocked by downed trees. The devastation was significant and the storm would last another whole day before subsiding.
That night Our friends John and Veronica in MV/Sea Quest, an 83' decommisioned wooden coast guard cutter had drug their anchors and when they tried to fight the forces with their massive engines the silt clogged their cooling water intake on the port engine. Their windlass requires their generator to run and the generator wouldnt start due to pump failure from silt so they couldnt pull up their anchoring gear and had only one engine to work with. They managed to lasso a vacant mooring with their anchor chains using the power from the starboard engine and much to their relief they held fast 100 yards shy of the rocks. A most impressive performance considering they had been awake for over 24 hours by this time.
By the time the storm subsided we had been subjected to strong winds and torrential rains for 40 hours. After getting hit the 2nd time there was even a rumor that Jimena was coming back again. Thankfully we were actually done. On our side of the sea San Carlos, Guaymas and Empalme got hit very hard with flood waters. The Marina Seca had much mud and damage from the storm. Thankfully there were remarkably few fatalities in Guaymas and as far as I know none in San Carlos.
In the aftermath of the storm left San Carlos without power, water or even cellular service. It was plainly obvious why when you saw all the power poles knocked down and the devastation c aused by the flooding.
Seemingly the instant the rains subsided there were 100 CFE (Mexican power company) trucks along the road. Within 24 hours they had restored power to most of San carlos, within 36 all of San Carlos had power. They were amazing. We went to survey the destruction in Marina Seca San Carlos and had to hike in from the main road since the path to the yard was now a very wet riverbed. We got to the yard and were shocked to see the facilities had been inundated. Some boats had fallen off their stands, some headsails were shredded. The most amazing thing wasnt the amount of boats knocked over or damanged, in fact remarkably few had fallen over at all. The most amazing thing was how well 98% of the boats faired. We walked into the work yard, which had taken the brunt of the torrent, and found a british fellow who was aboard his boat through the storm. He told us about the four foot deep river that raged through the yard. He pointed at the wrecked security gate and told me how he had removed his mast two weeks ago and it was rerigged and sitting on sawhorses ready to be re-stepped when Jimena came and pinned it across the entrance to the yard. He held out little hope that his mast would be recoverable. While we were having this conversation a bulldozer was tearing apart the other wrecked fence that led to the work yard.
Meanwhile, Kristina ran around taking photos to send worried friends. It was still pretty dangerous in there. I had been walking on solid river sand when I suddenly stepped both feet into soft mud and sank up to my knees. Trying to keep my flip flops attached to my feet was difficult but I managed to pull myself out. Kristina got herself similarly stuck while shooting photos of the dry storage yard but was able to free herself. It was clear to us that we couldnt really survey this destruction or get pictures to our friends until some of the cleanup had been done. The mud was impassable in many areas.
The road to Marina Real opened up so we went to check on our friend Tony's boat, Sweetie. The drive there was pretty treacherous the road was washed out and you had to go the wrong way on one way streets that were fairly flooded and filled with debris. We got to Marina Real and discovered that most of the boats there also fared well. They hadnt done as well as Marina San Carlos but mostly they had shredded headsails with the exception of one hunter BNR rig that had shredded it's headsail and toppled over into the mast of the neighboring boat. Tony's boat was just fine his neighbor on one side had a shredded dodger and the nearest sailboat on his other side had a very shredded headsail.
We went back a day later to check on a friend of Tony's boat and while it had no damage at all we could finally see the destruction that the concrete docks had suffered. They were twisted and cracked. The rebuilding process for Real will be a long one since I assume they'll need to get vacancies to rebuld the twisted docks..
We tried to go to the Ranchitos area to check on Tony's trailer in the storage yard and the road was washed out. we were directed to the detour up a steep muddy hill and though a misunderstanding I turned the 19' van at the wrong street and got her stuck deep in the mud. I was amazed to see that there were truckloads, literally truckloads of young men marauding around the disaster area. Some people might think this kind of thing might cause young men to loot or take similar advantage. These truckloads of men were basically the first response team. Just loads of young men looking for something that needs to be lifted or pushed. A truckload of them literally tried to lift the massive van out of the mud. It was amazing. These men asked nothing in return for their help and were far from alone. There were truckloads everywhere.
We had stood on the side of the road hoping somebody in a 4X4 might pull us out. One nice gringo couple gave me a ride to the fireman's house but he wasnt home. A short time later a big dually pickup truck drove up with 4 or 5 mexican kids in the back. They asked us if we had any food to give to the hungry chldren who were evidently trapped at the school up the hill. Sadly we didnt but the fellow said he would come back with tow chains when he got those kids dropped off. Sure enough he and his wife showed up 15 minutes later and easily pulled us out of the mud. He asked for nothing in return and I really wished we had something to repay them with.
If we do anything for somebody else and refuse payment they have Nickel and his wife to thank.
Over the next couple of days the crew at Marina Seca San Carlos really leapt into action. Kiki Grossman emailed al the customers and they had many crews working on getting the mud out. After 30 inches of rain there is a considerable risk of flooding inside boats and she had crews working to pump them out almost immediately. We personally checked on some friend's boats and sent them emails with photos of their boats. Pretty much everybody came through this well.
The lesson we learned is that Hurricanes do what they want regardless of the forecast. We already knew that but most importantly we learned that its actually possible for them to be wrong about the current location of the storm. I always assumed they used sattelite images to report the current location but its now clear they rely on models for that data as well and as we are all painfully aware, models are not infallable.
A final note about the Mexican Government's response to the disaster. They were totally on top of it. They attacked this disaster with zeal and competence. Interestingly in the wake of the disaster it became illegal to sell alcohol in the entire state of Sonora. the government evidently prohibits alcohol during a state of emergency. One cruiser asked a police officer about the prohibition and he stated simply that they just didnt need any more problems to deal with than they already have and that the banning of alcohol is standard operating procedure in the wake of a disaster. We dont really drink so it had no impact on us personally but you better believe there were more than a score of gringo cruisers highly distressed at the lack of beer.
A local cruiser/Ex-pat got permission to attend a town meeting with the general in charge of the disaster clean up and reported on the loca VHF radio net the following morning. He said the general was everything one ever wants out of a disaster manager. No politics, all answers and all of his answers were the same, "yes". He told the people that water would be restored to San Carlos in the next 2 days and power was already largely restored. Somebody asked about profiteering and told him they had seen somebody selling garafallons of fresh water on the roadside for 30 pesos each and he demanded to know where they had seen that and told everybody that profiteering would be punished agressively. Water would continue to sell for 7 pesos/5 gallons and that they were patrolling the area heavily keeping a wary eye out and that any suspicious activity would be dealt with harshly and quickly.
Basically this dude was a rock star and as far as I can tell in the wake of this disaster, he delivered on all of his promises.
The gate to G dock, this hearty fellow actualy climbed through there
Here he is doing it.
We bailed the dinghy hourly for 3 hours before we just removed everything from inside and let it ride on it's floatation.
This river is flowing through the dry storage yard to the left and into the sea to the right.
the awning on this boat gives a good idea of the winds. Not hurricane force but strong enough.
Video of those floodwaters, sorry about the audio the diving case for the camera amplifies raindrops
Many people stored their valuables in facilities like Guardian here never imagining for a moment that their valuables would be safer on the boat.
Strong enough flow to move heavy machinery. had it not been for that island the sea would have claimed this road grader.
In the background you can see wrecked boats littering the bay.
Restless was one of many to have shredded jibs at marina Real
A few shredded headsails and maybe one or two knocked over boats were about the entirety of Seca Real's damage.
This Hunter's BNR rig toppled over into it's neighbor's rig no doubt after much coercion from it's shredded headsail.
The chunk of road missing out of the lower road to Marina Real
Wreck strewn beach
Wrecked Ketch
The first store to open after the storm. They had no power and the floors were very wet.
Long line to get to the girl with the cash tray and the pocket calculator. These people deserve big credit for opening up.
My adorable wife striding along through the inpromptu parking lot in front of the only open store in town.
Captains Club and Tequilas both had their big signs fall over.
Fallen power line in front of the Oxxo near the marina. Fortunately the lines were discharged since people were stepping on them and crawling over them to go to the Oxxo
There used to be a big stone sign there. It fell over in the river.
This picture shows the riverbed that ultiimately became a raging rapids and took over the workyard.
This mud is several feet deep in places.
Good representation of most of the boats, they were fine.
Barnacle fell over but most of the boats were fine. For what it's worth it was reported that Barnacle didnt appear to have any structural damage. I suspect the river swept it off it's stands and as the water receded barnacle was slowly lowered onto the soft mud.
Again here, most boats okay
largest boat to fall in Marina Seca San Carlos
nice boat too
This picture shows how many boats stayed upright.
Kristina got herself stuck and insisted that I attempt to come save her. I had to get back into impassable mud to demonstrate to her that I couldnt physically come to her, this pic shows how deep the mud was.
You can see a section of the poor fellow's mast under the mud in this picture.
Electric company rocking the party.
The twisted docks at Marina Real
John on Sea Quest said this boat, Kelskivy broke free of it's mooring and turned 180 degrees gaining a lot of speed before slamming nose first into these rocks.
More wreckage, by the time I got inteh dinghy to take these pictures 50% of the wrecks had been refloated or otherwise removed.
this boat went ashore with an elderly gentleman named Stan aboard. When the Mexican rescguardo maritimo decided it was too dangerous to attempt a rescue a brave cruiser went to his aid in a dinghy. Not saying the mexicans were wrong, just that the cruiser was veyr brave.
I used to follow the blog of this family in 2003 when I was an aspiring cruiser. dont believe the same folks own her now but a sad ending for sure.
Triple Bummer
Fortunately the plastic part of this dumpster seems to have spared Misty Sea any damage.
We made rice pudding at the end of this storm to appease the hurricane gods. We just happened to have made a batch when we survived Hurricane Henriette in 07 and figure we might as well not tempt fate this time.
We departed Portland Oregon September of 2006 with high hopes but due to breakdowns and failures we returned home to earn money and stayed for 18 months before returning for the refit of doom.