Cruising with Eurona

04 September 2014 | Richards Bay
07 August 2014 | from Inhambane
23 July 2014 | Bazaruto Archipeligo
17 July 2014 | Bazaruto Archipeligo
12 July 2014 | Benguerra Island
01 July 2014 | Bazaruto Archipeligo
30 June 2014 | Pomene Bay
27 June 2014 | Pomene Bay
22 June 2014 | Mozambique
17 June 2014 | INHAMBANE
11 June 2014 | INHAMBANE
09 June 2014 | Inhambane lagoon
09 June 2014 | Inhambane lagoon
31 May 2014 | INHAMBANE
31 May 2014 | INHAMBANE
01 May 2014 | INHAMBANE
30 April 2014 | INHAMBANE
28 April 2014 | INHAMBANE
26 April 2014 | Maputo

Mozambique trip summed-up.

04 September 2014 | Richards Bay
Lyn Christie
September 2014

Our chance journey of SERENDIPITY
Experiencing sheer DIVERSITY
Only memorable ALACRITY !!!!

It is great to be back in South Africa, with EURONA lying happily in her moorings once again, in the marina of Richards Bay .
The weather was glorious on arrival and stayed fine for a few days. Then all hell broke out again...... the weekend brought rain and gale winds of 45 knots, which came rushing up the coast and into the interior straight from the South Pole !!!
Returning to a First World Country, has advantages such as the things we so easily take for granted ....... Water-on-tap, plug-in-electricity, fresh milk eggs and all other produce available non-stop at any walk in super market. Even just the ease of communicating in your own language is wonderful.

Be this as it may, one just appreciates the very basic way of life that others lead, with so little to contend with. Living on the yacht, not always experiencing ideal weather and the hassel with a rubber dinghy to ferry goods to and fro from shore and back to yacht, far distances to coastal shopping spots, we also just had to make do with much less eg ; to conserve and work sparingly with water, prepare meals on the fire braai or make sushi, when gas ran out. We relied on sailing only when the diesel was low, created culinary concoctions from locally caught fish, vegetables, fruit and coconuts. When daily requirements such as toiletries ran out, we went without!!
At least we learned to communicate in Portuguese !
"I think that I will not trouble myself for wealth when I can be so cheaply enriched" Thoreau (after a journey to some Indian Ocean islands)

Our visit to Mozambique, being a Third world Country, and still experiencing civil unrest, was an eye opener.
Although Mozambique is recovering from their past challenges, everyone is just trying to irk a living fishing or selling their vegetables and wares to feed their families.
The region is so clean and refreshing with strong proud people, always eager to assist.
The after mirth of the war has left many of the locals disabled because of the devastation of land mines remnants of the recent war.
These legless and limbless victims , are intergraded back into the community and they hold jobs. We saw an armless man helping the fishermen walking and splashing in the water, chasing the fish into the arc of the hand drawn gill nets, which the other youths pull into a circle to capture the fish and then transfer them onto a waiting dhow.
You don't see any beggars or hobos or any dirty streets, markets or shops. The domestic areas are also clean and orderly.
It only seemed to be the officials, that have attitude and try to extort visitors for money bribes or booze, instead of encouraging tourism!
We hardly came across any other yachts in the areas we mentioned on our blog , which is a great pity. We really recommend other catamaran yachties,(as momo-hulls will unfortunately have a problem with the shallow sand banks and strange moorings ) to visit these regions, as it is such an inexpensive way to reach and stay in these clean and protected estuaries, islands and bays.
We wonder where our lives will take us on our next adventure. What lies in store?
For now we are planning a few land trips and excursions to the Kruger Park, Botswana ,Namibia and Cape Provence on TERRA FIRMA.

My only regret..............arriving back to "first world area".....................
Noise and smells return, as well as the vibrations and rumbles of many other vessels.
One is starkly aware that the city and industrial glow of light....... will blank out the stars.

We look forward to plan our next voyage and once again set out sails in the direction of some exotic far off destiny.

HOMEWARD BOUND

07 August 2014 | from Inhambane
Lyn Christie
HOMEWARD BOUND

We shoot through the splashing foam
Like an ocean bird set free...
Like and ocean , our home
We'll be found far out at sea.......................

24 th July Thursday
After a brief tropical rain spell, we ambled slowly across the bay once again to shelter at the northern tip of Bazaruto Island. We needed a decent sleep before setting sail for our long journey back to South Africa. Our calculations showed that we would make two stops, weather and wind permitting. Back to Inhambane , then on to Inhaka Island.
Eurona was sitting on the dried -out sandbank in front of Bazaruto lodge and we had to wait for high tide at midday to be gently lifted off the sand and enter the wide ocean for our south bound trip.
It was a good day to leave, although we had only slow winds, we encountered hundreds of migrating humpback whales, arriving in the Mozambique channel on mass, to feed intensively, give birth and breed. We had to reduce sails and turn on the motors to gain speed during the night , also to deter or warn the whales of our position, as they seemed to come up in front and all around us so suddenly. It was awesome though floating out there on the large ocean with these huge gentle giant creatures breaching out of the water in aerial acrobatics. Glimpsing their flippers or flukes before they dive back into the sea.
Hennie was at the helm all night I was on duty during the day and I had to pacify myself with the knowlege that the humpback whales are not agressive . I was thinking of an incident about two years ago of a yachtsman who was fighting for his life after an encounter with a 30 mtre large grey whale, which breached and fell onto his 15 mtre yacht , causing unseen damage which started filling the yacht with water. It happened approx 2000km away from his home port of San Francisco!

26th July Sat morning we had the best blissful sleep for a very long time. We were in the protection of the estuary of Inhambane , with a 5 day South easterly lousy wind prediction ahead. The weather continued to perturb us - Eurona was prancing, leaping and bucking like a rodeo rider again, in the wild currents. We had to go higher into the estuary round a bend past a sandy stretch to seek further protection from worse winds predicted. By this time my nerves were raw at the helm while Hennie was on deck looking out for sandbanks, we were running into shallow waters I could see on the depth finder.
The night before when entering the stretch infront of Castello da mar, we nearly hit a sandbank which appeared on the garmin screen and it was not there on our last trip. So the sandbanks move and heap up, changing all the time.....
Next morning, went ashore to Castello do Mar and had a scrumptious meal with our friends Urshula and Niel and their guests. Hennie went deep sea fishing with the guys and us ladies had relaxing lunch time around the pool. I was treated to a long hot shower..... thanks Karen , who very generously offered her room for this occasion, as we were stressed and lack of sleep had just been bringing out such bad vibes between us, we needed a break from each other or one of us would have gone overboard. !!!!!
Sunday 3rd August we set off at 08H30 am to cross the 3 metre shallow sand bar at high tide . The day we leave the weather is beautiful and calm sunny hardly any wind !!!!!!! Took vigils throughout the night as there were so many close encounters with the many whales along the way again. Winds predicted 6 knots northerly, but became a nasty 15 knots South-easterly, creating huge swells hitting us on port side. We arrived at Inhaka at 3 pm 5th August. And rested for one day only, not daring to go ashore with our time being expired for our stay in Mozambique, or 10,000 metical fine for overstaying one's welcome.
7th August at noon in mild winds once again set sail and motored to gain speed for our last leg to Richards Bay.
During the night , overhead the milky way stretched a glittering astral sea across the sky. So clear and bright were the heavens , the moon was glowing like a nacreous pearl up above !!!!!
Leaving the somnolent serene scenery of the unspoilt Mosambique beaches and estuaries, imbued feelings of regret that our travels have come to an end for now.
Looking forward to see family and friends, water-on-tap, instant plug-in-electricity, fresh milk and a loooooonnnngg hot bath, though!!!!!!!

Inhassoro Village

23 July 2014 | Bazaruto Archipeligo
Lyn Christie
THE SILENCE OF NOON, THE GLAMOUR OF NIGHT
THE HEAT OF THE DAY WHEN THE FISH DON'T BITE
THESE ARE THE THINGS THAT REMIND ME OF
THE DAY WE SAILED OUT OF SIGHT.

22 JULY
In the morning we razed anchor and headed for Inhasorro village. On arriving ashore in our dinghy we were met by a young local boy who very obligingly offered to look after our boat while we were shopping .We made our way to the market and replenished our fresh produce and we were just pondering about where to obtain fresh water when along came the only white faced lady in a vehicle who we hailed. We met the two local lassies Debbie and her sister Sue originally from America, now residing in this little village. The sisters were fantastic helpful and friendly, they drove us around to buy diesel and fill our water containers and showed us their very basic living set up. Sue had bought land and has temporarily positioned a large shipping container to serve as their kitchen and has extended out on both sides to accommodate bedrooms sitting room bathroom etc they grow their own herbs and vegetables and sue runs an agency for a few of the local lodges and does legal representation for the locals. Such enthusiastic tough, hard working girls. We took them for lunch at a beautiful Lodge run by South Africans, but alas.... No clients or visitors around.
The economy is still very quiet here in the central part of Moz, as there is still civil unrest inland because of the forthcoming elections and voting preparations. Visitors in vehicles are still been escorted in convoys to the boarders.
We would have liked to hire a SUV and go inland to game reserves and sight- seeing but it was not to be.
Our visiting permit of three months in Mozambique has expired and the weather conditions are very unpredictable, hence our original plan to cross the open sea of the Mozambique channel, and stay over on Bassas de India on route to Madagascar was aborted. We were still receiving adverse and uncertain weather reports and warnings of early cyclones for the region.
Thus , together we reached the decission to return to South Africa.
We would spend a few months back there, and catch up with family, until the the conditions were acceptable to make the trip again.

Benquerra & St Carolina Islands

17 July 2014 | Bazaruto Archipeligo
Lyn Christie
Paradise / St Carolina Island

THE SOUND OF SEAGULLS DISTANT CRY
HIS WINGS LIKE PARENTHESES DRAWN IN THE SKY
AND TWO WHITE BIRDS CLINGING LIKE FOAM
TO A CREST OF A WAVE ROLLING BY..........

12th July We moved to the next island Benguerra , the second largest island forming part of the Bazaruto Archipelego which is now a National Park, dedicated to the safeguarding of Mozambiques marine treasures. The re-growth of corals and increase of the tropical fish and sea creatures along the reefs offer superb snorkeling and diving.
We tested our diving equipment in the protection of the quiet bay and went for some scuba brilliant diving in the unspoiled surroundings, still no dugongs to be seen.
The tranquility of the island is captivating. We visited the Azura lodge, very exclusive and expensive but beautifully decorated and efficiently run plenty well trained staff. Only people from Europe were guests here. Meals offered at over 1000 meticals R450 each and beers 180 meticals R60 plus tax.
We next visited the old Indigo Bay lodge now part owned by the Anangara Group Taiwanese . We met Sergio the manager and his well trained staff and had a pleasant meal for R300 meticals pizza and drinks. They filled our water containers and helped us launch the rubber duck which dried out on the sand bank and had to be pulled many metres to deeper water.
A whole flock of flamingoes were gathering in the dried out bay to roost and wait out the approaching bad weather.

Our next planned stop was Bazaruto Island, but the tide was so low that we could not get near to the Barra Lodge and decided to cross the bay to ST CAROLINA ISLAND also known a PARADISE ISLAND, on a choppy sea 11 knots of wind and tidal currents running at 2 knots per hour.We went ashore to investigate the desolate ruins of an old Paradise Island Hotel , perching precociously on the edge of the eroded sandrock cliffs, with a cute ajoining chapel, which was once, a saught after wedding destination.
We found the lonely tombs of the previous Governor of the area's wife, Carolina and her baby. She died during childbirth, and the Island is named after her. I stood staring out to sea, from this isolated point and said a silent prayer for her.
It is such a gem of an island with many trees and white talcum powder beaches, sand- rock carved cliffs. Caution must be taken to approach the island, as there are many hidden rocks all around the island.
We moved up along the northern side of the Island for protection from 14 knots of South Easter winds. Hennie stayed up on anchor duty as the rain and grotty weather returned and continued to perturb us. EURONA was bopping and thrown around all night and I was aroused out of a slumber to see an apparition in the cabin with me. This person seemed to be staring out of the window toward the Island and had a scarf or something around the head. I rushed into the cockpit to ask Hennie if he came to call me thinking he needed to move the yacht to a better anchorage , with a towel around his head ,as it was raining, but he said he hadn't moved from his vigil all night . I am positive that Carolina came on board to look for her dead little baby ....... Very spooky.......... Hennie also later told me that he felt as if someone was watching him all the time!!!!!
The fear of the night, having dissipated by morning, we made a hastily retreat for Inhasorro Village over on the main land, for provisions.

Indigo bay Resort

12 July 2014 | Benguerra Island
Lyn Christie
PICKING UP PEBBLES AND THROWING THEM INTO THE SEA
WATCHING THE WHITE SURF CARRY THEM ALL BACK TO ME
BUT NOW ITS ALL OVER, WE'VE GROWN UP, IT DONT SEEM THE SAME
THE THINGS OF OUR CHILDHOOD WERE ALL JUST A GAME...........



One of the few splendid days of calm and sunshine enjoying a meal at the Island resort of Indigo bay.
It is not always plain sailing with the rudimentary toilet and cold shower facilities crammed space and isolation during bad weather spells cooped up in the yacht.! Whatever modesty I had has been swept away !!!
After some time on board with the bumpy movements make one feel quite off balance when stepping ashore. Thank goodness neither of us suffer from malade or sea sickness but I experience a little giddy vertigo sometimes.
It has been a huge learning curve. One learns to conserve water and keep veg and fruit fresh for as long as possible. Eating much healthier, freshly caught fish only have pao the local Portuguese rolls, which one can buy from a bakery and have cut down on sweet things .One really learns to appreciate the basic things in life and make do with much less and what is available.
We have attuned to things nautical: My eyes have grown accustomed to the moods of the ocean. You learn to read and recognize the patterns of the currents and tides and the colours and shapes of the cloud formations to predict the oncoming weather.
Vision and instinct play a very real part in seamanship!!
But the niceties far out weigh the dreary weather days : The sporadic wildlife, dolphins , whales flying fish and a multitude of sea birds are a daily sight ! The true majesty of natures patterns of beauty revealed all around us.

Shimmering sunny day in Moz.

08 July 2014
Enjoying beautiful surroundings of Indigo Resort.
Vessel Name: Eurona
Vessel Make/Model: Dean Ocean Comber Catamaran
Hailing Port: Durban South Africa
Crew: Hennie Kotze and Lyn Christie
About:
Cruising with Yacht Eurona ! The ocean has always held a fascination, like a magnetic lure I am drawn to it…………………destiny beckons………. [...]
Extra:
OUR FLOATING HOME EURONA, an 11 metre Dean Catamaran , which Hennie laboriously built up from the basic fibreglass frame, 20 years ago. All the woodwork, electronics plumbing, fitted the large twin motors and all other equipment was installed by him. It is a marvel to watch him climb up to the [...]

Our Journey together begins

Who: Hennie Kotze and Lyn Christie
Port: Durban South Africa