The forecast storm was as bad as predicted. However, it brought a number of folks together to shelter from it. I made friends with Ken in a 26ft Seaward and his 75-year old friend in a 27ft Watkins. Both came over from Stuart and fought the Gulf Stream--crazy. Also met Frank Beveridge and Jay and Margo Jenkins down from Massachusetts in Frank's 44 Cherubini (the same person who designed Puff). Lots of fun and too much Kalik (pronounced "click") the Bahamian beer. The Bluff House resort is nice and the folks friendly. The storm brought 50 mph gusts but little else. However the day after was almost as windy with NE winds in the 25-30 kt ranges.

On the 17th I left the dock and anchored out in White Sound off the resort to save dock fees and get some work done. Changed the oil (about 170 hours since I left home) and the fuel filter. I fabricated a new gasket for the fuel filter using materials I picked up in Key West. Two hours later I think I stopped a leak that plagued Puff for 2 years. Woke up the morning of the 18th and could figure out what was wrong. NO WIND. For the first time in weeks there was no wind at all. The boats at anchor were pointed in different directions.

Got underway at 7:15 and headed for Don't Rock Channel. The Abaco Sound has a sand bar across it there. Most folks go out in the Atlantic to go around the bar and Whale Cay. However the Atlantic was forecast to be rough and Puff doesn't need much water, so we crossed the bar at Sand Banks Cays and Don't Rock. The Atlantic swells were 2-3 feet but we had plenty of water. Half way across I heard something behind me and there was 7 ft breaker about 50 feet off the port stern quarter. I spun the wheel starboard to take it on the stern and hoped. Puff was perfect! We took about a quart of water over the stern and the breaker passed under us. I saw the dingy next to the starboard side at a 75-degree nose-down angle as the wave hit. The dingy did fine too and the only thing lost was a bucket I had picked on Allans-Pensacola.

We motored to Archers Cay and anchored. Could have easily gotten to Marsh Harbor but why anchor with others when you can anchor off a deserted beach. There was part of a house or something on the beach. It had large cisterns for water and a pool with windows set in it as part of the first floor. There was nothing above it except a few columns. Don't know if it never got finished or what.

The 19th we sailed to Marsh Harbor and the Conch Inn Marina. Took on 5 gallons of diesel and 2.3 of gas for the generator and outboards. Unfolded the bike and took the laundry into to town to do wash so Karen had clean sheets. Also did grocery shopping. Marsh Harbor has about everything you can need. It is a commercial center and not quaint like the out islands. Karen arrived on the 20th and it was wonderful to see her.

We spent the 20th getting official papers notarized for Carl's will and then hit the tourist shops. Luckily, we don't care much for T-shirts, hats, and bottle openers. Had a great dinner at Snappas, I had a dolphin sandwich and Karen had steamed conch with veggies.

On the 21st we left Marsh Harbor and set out for Man-O-War Cay. As usual, the winds were on the nose and we tacked a few times to get there with 3-foot seas. Religious folks settled man-O-War Cay and there is no alcohol sold on the island. It is the home of the Albury's who build "the" boat for these waters. They also run a ferry service. The island is beautiful with golf carts as the main form of transport. The homes are small and cute. We noticed a lot of children on the island and little parks for them. It isn't my island dream; but, it is very nice. After a four-hour visit, we left for Hope Town on Elbow Cay. Got there in an hour or so and anchored off the entrance to the harbor since it was dinnertime.

The next morning, the 22nd, we motored in to the harbor and found a mooring right off Captain Jacks. Went to the lighthouse that is still kerosene fired and operated by a lighthouse keeper. The view was great and looking out, I saw Magnificat at a mooring � mile behind us. So we went by and introduced Karen to Jim and Maria Kenan. They invited us for a cruiser's dinner. Hope Town is quaint, cute, and closed on Sunday which is something that we forget about in the states. Only a bar and a few restaurants were open. At 6 we showed up at Magnificat with rum punch, wine, beef tenderloins and fresh corn on the cob. They had also invited Ann and Steve who also have a catamaran. What a wonderful night, good folks, good drinks and good food. It was great having a mate with me! She enjoyed it too.

The 23rd we left Hope Town to try and find white sandy beaches to trek on. We passed Tahiti
Beach on Elbow Cay and probably should have stopped but we saw 3 or 4 couples there so we went on to Tilloo Cay. We anchored off Tilloo Pond but found out that there are no white sandy beaches on the Atlantic side. The Atlantic hits on the limestone base of the islands. There may be some sand dunes above the water line but not much at the water. It is beautiful but not the best for beachcombing. So we kept going to the end of Lynyard Cay where we trekked the beaches on the Abaco Sea side. We found some "treasures" and then hid from the strong winds again. With winds from the East at 15-20, the Atlantic was rolling and the waves coming in at the end of Lynyard Cay were something to watch with spray as high as the island when the bigger waves hit.

The morning of the 24th, we went to Little Harbor, the home of Randolph Johnston, an artist known for his bronze work. He left the New York art world and brought his family to a deserted bay now known as Little Harbor. He changed his style of art to the people and nature of the area and his works are fantastic as are those of his son Peter. However, Peter may be better known for Pete's Pub which is an open-air bar and grill next to the artist gallery. Had a fantastic dolphin sandwich with rice and peas and wonderful coleslaw. We couldn't afford a piece of Johnston art but we bought a Robert Zwickel print of the Hope Town lighthouse to remember the trip.

In the afternoon we made a quick run back up the islands going north of Man-O-War to Great Guana Cay. We pulled in to Guana Cay Harbor after a 4.5-hour run of 24.5 nautical miles and picked up a mooring ball to spend the night. Guana Cay is best known for a beach bar, Nippers. But the beaches are fantastic. There is a barrier reef (they say the 3rd largest in the world) off the cay which protects it from the big waves of the Atlantic. The beaches are white and smooth. And right off the beach is rocks and coral you can snorkel around. All that searching for a beach and we find it at an infamous bar. However, there weren't any treasures or shells to be found. After a super lunch at Nippers we headed back to Marsh Harbor.

Karen leaves on the 26th about noon and I'll stay here one more day to do laundry and shop for the return trip. I've decided to go back the way I came since it is much nicer than going down around the end of Abaco and Grand Bahama. There is only one town south of Little Harbor and it is nothing spectacular. So it will be back up the islands and then waiting for good waves and weather to cross the Gulf Stream and land at Stuart or Ft. Pierce. With the lack of rain in Florida, I don't think even Puff can make it safely across Lake Okeechobee. Talked to one captain whose boat required 3' 6" like Puff and he said he only had 6" of water under him most of the way across the lake. And the Lake is still going down. So I'll probably cut my run up the East Coast short since I'll have to go back to the Keys to get home. We'll someone has to do it.


Hi everyone! This is Karen and we've just had a fabulous week in Abaco and the northern Bahama islands! The blue blue blue waters are endless! Beaches....well, most in the Abaco Islands are rock, limestone actually, and look a lot like California beaches. Sand is the very fine white sand that we see in golf course sand traps in the US. Very few shells, but we did find several sea biscuits....a real treat! All the islands we visited have quaint little towns, some with no paved roads and only golf carts for transportation. Lots of vacation cottages for rent, and many for sale. This is the place for middle age/young senior dropouts! Fun time listening to the cruisers net every morning....everything from weather and news to what's going on at various businesses and restaurants at the out islands. All in all a wonderfully relaxing week! Come back? Definitely!! Love to you all!