We had a great time in Bequia. It is one of our favorite places. As the guide book says it is " isolated enough to remain relatively unspoiled but lively enough to be stimulating and entertaining."

We took a taxi out to Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary. Brother King takes turtle eggs and rears the turtles so they have a better chance of living in the wild. We were shocked at the low number of turtles in comparison to our pre-Covid visit in 2018. However, it was reassuring to see it is still a destination for taxis bringing cruise ship passengers and thus money to buy food for the turtles.

We walked back to Port Elizabeth, a 2.5 mile hike. We passed several East facing beaches covered in seaweed, there was no sargassum on our previous visit. Sargassum seaweed on the east coast of all Caribbean islands is a real problem. A committee has been set up to work out how to productively use seaweed and not just as fertilizer. We walked up to Fort Ruin Outlook and had a fabulous view of Port Elizabeth.

I love getting out and just exploring places on foot, which I did several times in Bequia. I made it over to Friendship Bay, Lower Beach, and to the top where the radio towers are.

We had fun doing the scavenger hunt for food and other provisions. Doris Fresh Foods is always a delight to visit. This tiny store was crammed with the most variety of foods we've seen in Caribbean. There was no shortage of fresh, locally grown veggies and fruits. It is coming into mango season and I was able to have my favorite dessert mango and passion fruit.

A picturesque coastal path - The Belmont walk - runs from town along the southern edge of Port Elizabeth to Princess Margaret Beach. Small hotels, Restaurants and Bars are spread out along the walkway. One night while having dinner at the Fig tree restaurant, we watched people run the gauntlet of the walkway when the spray from the swell was really bad. It provided lots of entertainment, guessing wether they we going to get soaked or not.

We spent 11 days in Bequia due to weather. We wanted to leave earlier but there was no wind and lots of swell, so we waited. We left late Sunday afternoon heading for Rodney Bay, St Lucia (80mls) doing an overnight passage. We had a magnificent sail halfway up St Vincent where we got caught in the wind shadow, and turned on the motor. We picked up wind crossing from St Vincent to St Lucia, losing it again in the wind shadow of St Lucia. We arrived in St Lucia at 8.00 am got a berth at the Rodney Bay Marina, checked in at customs and immigration and had much earned big breakfast!! It is a treat to be in the marina with hot showers and unlimited water, and the boat still - no rocking and rolling.

We did an island tour, as we thought that was the easiest way to see the Pitons in the south end of the island, Castries and other tourist icons.



Our taxi driver, Paul picked us up on Friday morning and showed us around the island. It was fun. Lunch at the Belle View Creole Restaurant, Soufriere, was delicious. They have a policy that taxi divers eat free if they bring business. It had a steady flow of people as a result.



We visited the sulphur springs and viewed from afar as they were inundated with cruise ship passengers. On the way back, Paul took us down the back roads as traffic is a huge problem esp. Friday afternoon in Castries. It was pleasant to see the countryside.

I have been on several hikes. I climbed Mt Picard 639',- southern entrance to Rodney Bay - in some places I had to use the rope to pull me up- definitely a challenge but the view was worth it.



I also went out to Pigeon Island national Park - north side of Rodney Bay -where I climbed signal peak and Rodney Fort. It has been a treat to not use to dinghy to get to land, instead just hop off the boat and walk.



Next stop is Portsmouth, Dominica (95 miles) - another overnight passage. We plan to leave tomorrow. Again we waited for a weather window, this time the winds were high with swells. Looking forward to sailing.

Belated happy New Year. I/Sue returned to Evening Ebb after spending 2 weeks in Kuwait with my youngest daughter. Dirk was pleased to have me back. Shortly after my return we took the boat around to Clarke's Court (largest boat yard with a small marina in Grenada) where we stayed at the dock. Palm Tree Marine found the oil and water leaks. What was supposed to be a few days turned into two weeks at the dock. But we got so much accomplished, it was worth it, Lots more decluttering, sorting out the electrical system, steaming and anchor lights, etc. We were finally ready to set off on our trip north knowing that the boat was in the best shape possible.

On the 8th February, we motored around to Grand Mal just outside St George's. There was one ball left and we managed to get there just ahead of a catamaran. The next day we motor-sailed to Tyrell Bay, Carriacou since the winds were 18-23 kts on the nose. We hit a few squalls with wind speeds of 35kts for about 10 mins. I was glad we had put a reef in the main.

We visited our usual haunts, Paradise Beach club where we saw our boat board (I had painted it the last time we were at Sandy Island), put up on the fence along with a hundred or so other boat plaques.



We went to Patty's deli in Hillsborough, Rufus for fruit and veggies in Tyrell Bay, and of course we had to visit Budget. I did the noodling classes (exercises in the water using a styrofoam noodle) Monday Wednesday and Friday. Dominoes at the Gallery on Wednesday afternoon.

We extended our stay in Tyrell Bay as it was carnival the following week and thought it might be fun to do "Fancy Mas" on the Monday. Leading up to Carnival, there were lots more people on the buses and in Hillsborough, One could feel the excitement mounting, lots of music morning noon and especially at night. Early Monday morning 20th Feb was Jouvet. Fortunately, it took place in Hillsborough so we didn't hear too much noise, although we were woke up with a call from land to come to Jouvet. For fancy mas, things were supposed to start at about two-ish so we thought "island time" that meant about 3 or 4. We got into Hillsborough about 3.15, wandered around had a drink, saw a few Jab-Jab's ( people covered in oil which are supposed to frighten people - left over from slavery days).



Finally at 5.30 we called it a day and went back to Tyrell Bay- No Fancy Mas.. The following day our patience was rewarded - we saw the fancy dress.



On Wednesday 22nd we checked out of Grenada and motored sailed (3hrs) over to Union Island - part of St Vincent and the Grenadines. It was quite spectacular going into Union, we were being chased by about 4 catamarans and a monohull, Dirk was able to take down the sails without slowing down and we beat them in. We took mooring ball. Buddha - the boat boy who rented us the mooring ball, took us ashore to check in. We missed the custom/immigration office in town so we walked out to the airport to get checked in. On the way back, we picked up a few veggies and then called Buddha for a ride back to the boat, since getting a ride meant that we didn't have to put the dinghy in the water and then put it back on deck. After a lovely night's sleep, no rolling and not a lot of wind- we left mid morning and went round to Chatham Bay, Union Island.

Chatham Bay is a huge unspoiled bay on the west side of Union Island. I thought it was going to be calm and no wind - wrong!! We were rocking and rolling, with wind whistling down the hills all night, not so bad during the day. The water was very clear. I did a lot of snorkelling, saw lots of turtles- one poor soul was missing a back fin!! There were huge schools of tiny fish that I swam through. A lot of the different fish were close up to the beach, where a reef ran along the breaking waves. The bird life was abundant - probably due to the huge schools of fish. We went ashore on Friday and had lunch at Seckie and Vanessa's bar and Resturant. Before lunch I decided to climb to the top of the hill. Dirk kept Vanessa company and had a beer. Lunch was delicious and plenty of it. On Saturday I did a long hike up to the top and saw a cannon. The vegetation is semi-arid, only a few trees with green leaves. The spikey air-plants one can buy in nursery or garden center grow wild here in the trees, along with lot of cacti.

On Sunday we motored over to Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau - one of the Grenadine Islands. It is the quintessential Caribbean bay, with palm trees growing on the beach, rum shacks, with restaurants, some people selling food and clothing. It is very calm with minimum rocking and rolling, but Grand Central station for charter catamarans. We shared the bay with 27 other boats. We like to a take a mooring ball, to help the economy and avoid damaging the turtle grass. We went ashore and walked to the top of the hill. There's a scenic view of the eastern part of the Cays, which reminded me of Bermuda with the light/dark blue water with brown patches (reefs).

After 2 nights, we motored around the corner to the Tobago Cays. We took a mooring ball next to the turtle area. I was able to swim over and take pictures of the turtles and sting rays without scaring them away. They were very docile.



We had 2 nights here, one of Dirks special places. I love it cos it it one of the few places one can watch sunrise. We had a fabulous lobster dinner at Romeo's beach restaurant, with sand under our feet. The following morning we motored sailed to 34 miles to Bequia, where we are now anchored off Princess Margaret Beach. It is lovely and quiet.

Season's greeting from Evening Ebb. Dirk and I (Sue for those who don't know me) arrived back on board at the beginning of November. Dirk had worked diligently during the summer to finish the boat projects and get her ready to sail up island. However, a few projects needed to be finished and as with all boat project more seemed to pop up while fixing others. For us it was the fridge and the rigging. Dirk's insurance required a rigging survey. During the summer he had no luck scheduling a survey the one company. However, he finally found someone who came out to the boat and found a few issues, one required sourcing two toggles overseas. Importing to an island is never straightforward and Grenada is no exception. The fridge also required attention which after several days of trouble shooting needed a part from overseas. Dirk was able to do his 'advanced boat yoga' and install the part. By the time we left on 6th December most of the boat had been completed.

It was not all work and no play while we were on the mooring ball in Prickly Bay. I attended my regular yoga and Zumba classes with the instructor Leslie, who is also a fellow cruiser. I visited with Frank and Lottie and got my doubles on Tuesdays and Saturdays. They sell them out of the back of their van and the doubles are the best on the Island, delicious!!!

We caught up with friends, had dinners out and I took part in several hashes. A Hash is a run/Walk through the bush very muddy - but a great challenge. Dirk organised a thanksgiving dinner with fellow American cruisers. We gathered on Gary's boat and ate, had seconds, and even leftovers - which Dirk thinks makes for a great Thanksgiving dinner.

A few cruisers and I went to a Christmas light festival and carol concert at Quarantine point, put on by the Grenadian Rotarians. It was a lovely event and put me in the Christmas mood. Although, I had been hearing Christmas carols in the shops since we arrived. Apparently Christmas lights and music starts after Grenadian Thanksgiving in October.



We left our mooring ball on 6th December and motored round to Grand Mal, where we picked up a mooring ball and spent 2 nights there. It was very rolly. I like the area because the snorkelling is good. I have a Go-Pro which I am getting familiar with - so hopefully I will have some good under water photos. The weather has been unusually - very light 2-7 kts winds from the northwest. The windward Islands usually have predictable trade winds 10-20 kts from east or northeast all year round.

We motored up to Carriacou and dropped anchor in Tyrell Bay, where we stayed for a week. Dirk finished splicing the new halyards. He got so annoyed when one halyard wouldn't pull through that he pulled out the top climber and zoomed up the mast! It was twisted at the top. I got involved with noodling classes (aqua aerobics with a noodle) and played dominoes with fellow cruisers and snow birds. I took a couple of hikes and was amazed at the number of huge mosquitoes.



We motored over to Petit Martinique (PM) and dropped anchor in front of Petit St Vincent (PSV). We heard that it cost $100 just for the privilege of going ashore, needless to say we didn't go ashore in PSV. Instead we dinghied over to PM and had lunch at the Palm Beach restaurant and a wander round.

We are heading back to Grenada for Christmas with friends and we want to wish you a Happy Holidays.

The sun rising over Cape Cod a month ago.

Some whimsy to warm up the blog. Barefoot pics from the past year: the Pacific and the Atlantic; the desert and DC; and finally Massachusetts snow.

More to come.