Breathtaking
29 April 2013
Kim and Tom
Our uncomfortable 15 hour windward overnight sail from Hiva Oa was rewarded by the most stunning landscape we have ever seen. As Fatu Hiva came into clear view we were completely awestruck by its beauty. After 3 attempts at placing our anchor in an optimal location in Baie Hanevave, we took a moment to appreciate the scenery. Our boat is dwarfed by steep mountains that pierce the ever-present clouds at 3000 feet. This spectacular landscape plummets into a narrow emerald green valley below, which is edged by towering narrow pinnacle rocks. These rock formations inspired the name that the bay is most recognized by: Bay of '_enises' (or the more politically correct version - Bay of Virgins). In fact, this bay is world renowned as being the most stunning landscape in the South Pacific. The Island is truly magical. Fierce winds funnel down the valley across the bay, creating sudden gusts that test cruiser anchoring ability. The winds provide a cooling relief from the high humidity, but at night they add to the dramatic, wild, mysterious aura of the Island. Brief but sometimes intense rain showers keep us hopping as we try to close our hatches before everything in our cabin gets drenched. The locals are very friendly. The day we arrived we were invited to a dinner hosted by a local woman who, together with her sisters and girlfriends prepared a wide array of authentic Island dishes for 22 cruisers, which exposed us all to traditional Polynesian cooking. Yesterday we hiked through jungle-like terrain up a narrow and at times challenging path, to a small pond at the base of an incredible waterfall that plummets down a sheer 1000 foot cliff. After the long hike a dip in the pool was welcome relief from the heat and gave us the energy to endure the long and equally challenging trek back to the bay. The locals are happy to trade fresh fruit for a range of items. Today we obtained a large stock of bananas and a bag of mangoes for a bag of items, which included fishing lures, sandpaper, a flashlight, and a range of fun things for the kids. This morning fellow cruisers on Kiapa caught a 40ish pound wahoo as they were leaving the bay. They were considerate enough to turn around, and offered to share their catch with a few fellow cruisers. We were happy to accept their generosity, and Tom arrived back on the boat with a 1 X 1 foot slab of fish. Much more than we could possibly eat ourselves, we in turn shared it with another boat later in the day. We plan to spend another day or two here to work on a few projects before heading North to Tahuata, where we expect to catch up with fellow cruisers from Victoria who we haven't seen since last summer.