When we hopped off the ferry from Himmafushi it was like being transported to another world. The noisy, congested wharf was teeming with people. I stepped back to the edge of the wharf to avoid colliding with a man pushing a wheelbarrow piled high with supplies, then ducked behind others as they hoisted bags and crates of goods onto a truck bed. We stopped at the roadside for a moment to catch our breath, watching drivers yelling and honking their horns at the truck driver to get moving while scooters veered around them from both directions. What a scary place to be a pedestrian!
Many of the road are more like alleyways, with scooters and motorcycles lined up along one side. We learned quickly that it's best to slip into the tiny spaces between parked scooters when a car or truck driver has enough gumption to pass through, as it's virtually impossible to wedge yourself closely enough along the building wall on the other side without getting clipped by a rear view mirror. Drivers are courteous though, and will try to accommodate you if they see you in time. I found it best to follow close behind a local to learn the subtle rhythm in the dance between vehicles and pedestrians.
Nearly everyone visiting the Maldives goes to Malé, as it's the central hub for international flights, goods and services. And so you can find a lot of things in this compact city if you know where to find them, but it's tricky locating addresses along unfamiliar, winding roads when street names are written in a foreign alphabet. Fortunately locals are often happy to provide directions. They must get a kick out of watching foreigners scratching their heads in front of road signs written in Dhivehi, mumbling to themselves in frustration after circling around the same block numerous times.
After a somewhat overwhelming first day and feeling a bit like 'Waldo' in this maze of a city, we found that the place really grew on us. By the third day we started to feel like regulars, returning numerous times to our favorite supermarkets and pocket-sized specialty stores, seeking out familiar vendors in fresh markets, and taking a break in a couple of great restaurants and cafés.