Zakynthos and the bogus harbour master
14 August 2014 | Zakynthos
George. Weather still hot
Yes, I've neglected you my loyal readers, no blogs this year to speak of so far, then like the number 19 bus, three at once!
We've been to 13 islands so far in 2014, many of them we have visited more than once, like Corfu, Paxos, Meganissi, but we won't exceed the 26 islands we visited in 2013 though.
We are currently cruising along the east coast of the Peloponnese. We left Zakynthos town and sailed to Katakalon on the mainland. I just wanted to give you a little info on Zakynthos town, most of which has already been recorded in other people's blogs, and most of which I agree with!
The main harbour at Zakynthos is large, but very shallow over a large area to the SW which is less than half a metre deep. Lots of ferries use this harbour.. The sailing yachts can go on the west side of the town quay, which is noisy and opposite a busy road, or along the wall towards the sailing club. There is quite a lot of traffic using the quay to the sailing club, and a lot of motorbikes, making it a rather noisy and dangerous road. In the evening many people also stroll down here for their evening Volta. There is a little beach the other side of the wall. Access is via some steps, it is rocky so wear rubber shoes, but the water is beautiful, we swam here a couple of times.
The town of Zakynthos is large, noisy and touristy. All facilities can be found here, but choose your place to eat and drink with care. If you avoid the very touristy bars around the square or along the front, you will also avoid their high prices. If you explore a couple of streets back, you can sit in a nice quiet marble paved street and pay half the price. There is also the most delicious bakery in one of these little streets, that sells the best range of bread, sweet and savoury pies, biscuits and cakes.
Moored along from us on the quay were several huge tripping boats, including an enormous replica pirate galleon complete with bored staff in pirate costume. Every morning around 0930 hoards of day trippers arrive on coaches or by foot, and board these monstrosities which take them on a cruise to the blue caves, or to a beach for a BBQ. They return sunburnt and drunk around 5pm.
On some charts and navigation apps it refers to a marina inside the harbour here, but there is nothing. A word of caution. We heard rumours about a non-official harbour master here who tries to charge you for a berth. He has been here for at least six years according to some fellow cruisers.
He will see your yacht arriving and ride his motorbike down the quay to meet you, and indicate where you should moor. Once you have secured your boat, he will approach and ask you how many nights you want to stay and tell you the price, we heard he was asking 15 euro a night. We challenged him and asked if he was working for the Port Police, but he tried to tell is some story that the PP no longer take responsibility for the mooring of yachts and he said he works for the municipality. He has made himself a home made badge, carries a money satchel and writes notes in a book, but he in not official and you don't have to pay him any mooring fees! We think that he may be responsible for providing water and electricity, for which he charges 5 euro a day each, but then he adds on his own mooring fee, which is not official. We didn't want water or electricity, and told him we would go to the port police to pay our harbour fees, then he seemed to back off. The guy on the boat next to us who arrived earlier, happily handed over 25 euro in total, based on the fact that he had not paid harbour fees for a couple of weeks, so he felt it ok to pay up this time! Of course we don't mind paying when it is legitimate, but we don't like these scams which seem to crop up now and then in Greek harbours. Everyone had to try to make a living somehow, I suppose!