Around Ireland in a Sadler 32
Summer 2011

This was a leisurly circumnavigation of the island over a six week period.

Day 1

Sunday 19th June 2011
Set off from Baltimore at 0900 and arrived Castletownbere at 1630.
Sally and I arrived at the mooring about 0630 and brought her in to the small pontoon where we loaded on supplies. Sally headed back home and we would meet up a few weeks later in Mayo. Then I was joined by Moritz, Marie-Leaw and Dan. We had no wind and had to motor the whole way in sunshine. We went out around Cape Clear and rounded Mizzen in fairly calm conditions. Passed Sheep's Head and then tried unsuccessfully to catch a few fish for dinner bit there were no bites.....It was a warm sunny day but no wind and constant motoring made it a bit tiresome. Motored in through Pipers Sound and tied up at the main fishing wharf on to a raft of five other boats..... we made the obligatory visit to McCarthy's Bar to watch the tail end of the Clare - Tip hurling game before returning to the boat for chips and lentils and stuff.... then a walk around town.... saw some friendly donkeys who gave me a nice nip on my hand! We all got an early night but I was awake at 0315 with nearby boats pulling out. Luckily none of those we rafted on to was moving but it still made for a restless night.

Day 2
20th June
Castletownbere to Dingle
This was the best sail that I ever had. We averaged about six knots over a nine hour period and we were tipping over eight knots at times. This trip is a big semicircle and the winds changed perfectly to suit our course. We left Castletownbere about 0830 and arrived in Dingle about 1830. We started off with SE F5 which pushed us along really well until we passed The Calf. Then we turned almost due N and spent the next few hours looking at the Skelligs. Little Skellig always looks like the sun is shining on it whereas Skellig Michael always looks dark and grey. The reason is all the bird shit on Little Skellig. Saw lots of puffins as we passed Puffin Island which is just S of Valentia. Rounded Bray Head and into Dingle Bay and the winds died off a little and we were down to 3-4 knots. Rain arrived and we lost both shores. Finished off the sail with a mile or two goose-winging up to the approach to the harbour. Fungi was on welcoming duty as usual and we were shown to our berth by the very pleasant marina manager. We finished off a fantastic day with a quick pint in Dick Macs before finding some excellent trad music in John Bennys. I remember the night that my friend Vlad played a few tunes in the same bar......
We spent four nights in Dingle.


Day 6
24th June
Dingle to Kilkee
Left An Daingain at 0630 and arrived Kilkee at 1830. Thursday was the only chance to get out of Dingle because from Friday about noon the weather was getting bad. It's about 18 hours to Inishmore so we decided to do a stopover in Kilkee and then make an early start to Kilronan the next morning. Dan got off before we left and headed back to Ballydehob. We motored out to the Blasket Sound with a F3 westerly on the nose. As soon as we tuned North through the sound we had the wind on the port side and we sailed for the next 9 or 10 hours right to Kilkee. It was choppy around Sybill Head and a bit wet but the rest of the sail was excellent. We passed Smerwick and Brandon and made 40 degrees magnetic to Loop Head. It was another 2.5 hours to Kilkee and we picked up an unused mooring near the pier. We went ashore on the dinghy and met my friend Matt who brought us to his home for a slap-up dinner of bacon and cabbage! It was wonderful. Back on board about 2200

Day 7
25th June
Kilkee to Kilronan
We departed Kilkee at 0445 and arrived in Kilronan at 1000. I did two things that I had not done before. First was to leave a mooring with the navigation lights on (it was still dark) and the second was to set out with a F7 forecast for that same morning. But it was calm and we figured we would get there before the big blow. And we did. We made good time motor sailing to Gregory Sound and then tried our luck with a bit of fishing before headed in to the new harbour in Kilronan on Inishmore. The new pier is huge. It must be 400 metres long. It had two small ribs on it and nothing else. So we tied up. There is still work ongoing and that is the reason that the pier is so empty. I was happy to get in because the weather was rapidly deteriorating. 1045 saw us in the local cafe having a big breakfast and meeting some locals and some visitors. There are about six tables in the cafe but only one conversation! We sat opposite a lady from the north of Ireland who has lived here for 50 years. She is 82 and charming and seemed to know everything about the people of the island..... There was John from Dublin who got off the ferry 18 years ago and decided to stay..... There was Gregory from Massachusetts who is a psychiatrist. Mary suggested that he should stay as he was badly needed on the island. Two pleasant hours passed and I went back to FR for a few hours sleep while Moritz went off to catch up with some old friends.

Day 8
26th June
Kilronan to Inismeain
We had spotted a poster in Kilronan advertising that Druid Theatre Company were playing on Inismeain the next day, Sunday. They were doing Martin McDonagh's 'The Cripple of Inismaan'. So Moritz called the box office to be told that it was sold out but that we were going on a stand-by list so Sunday afternoon we made the short hop over to the fantastic new harbour. It's only about 3 or 4 miles and we tied up in 3m of water. We had caught two mackerel on the way over but we decided to see if we could sort out the tickets before we ate. In the empty harbour a taxi materialised out of nowhere and we were brought to the Hall. The stage crew were there and they told us to come back at 1930 when the box office opened. They also said that 'now that we were here' we'd hardly be left outside. Back to the boat on the taxi for fish and spuds. The we walked back to the hall on a beautiful evening. There were people hanging about outside, most hoping to get a ticket. One guy said that he had booked his six months earlier. A Druid photographer said that the New York Times were covering the event and had suggested that they might put a picture on the front page. There had been a matinee that afternoon attended by Mary McAleese, President of Ireland. When we got to the top of the queue Moritz used his charm to persuade the woman that there were tickets waiting for us which of course she could not find but eventually relented and gave us two!!! Happy days. Off to the pub for a quick pint before returning to get seats in the third row. What followed was a masterpiece of theatre. This is not McDonagh's best play but the production and the acting was superb. The two aunts, particularly Kate, played by Ingrid Craigie were wonderful and I must admit had me in tears in the first act with their intense love of Cripple Billy.
There was a fifteen minute interval. I was half expecting a raffle! But no raffle and no kids with crisps and coke. I was admiring the sun setting when I spotted Moritz talking to this tall, striking figure. None other than Martin McDonagh himself. I took a few pictures. He was chatty and friendly. There was a standing ovation at the end and you could see that the cast were delighted. This was the final show of a tour that had played right across the USA. Afterwards everybody retired to the one pub and it was packed. The cast were there and they were all in great form. Martin McDonagh was the centre of attraction and he chatted and posed and joked for the whole evening. I met an old sailing buddy of mine, Pat Ryan. He introduced me to his mum , Breda, who is a patron of Druid. There was n a girl playing the guitar but nobody could hear a thing with the racket....We got some great pictures and some very funny video as the sun was coming up! Back on board about 0500 and slept until 1000.


Day 9
27th June
Inismeain to Kilronan
We had met a chap called Shane at the play who was camping near the harbour and he joined us for breakfast before we did a four hour stroll around the island. It was a beautiful sunny day. The first really good day since the Baltimore to Castletown leg. The island was stunning in the warm sunshine and there are countless small fields full of wildflowers. We walked the shoreline at low tide and the scent of the flowers and the dry sea weeds was wonderful. This island is exquisitely beautiful. I was so happy to be there. Moritz had a swim in the ocean. We met a man cutting hay with a scythe. Another man was clearing weeds with a sickle. Another very old man was sitting in the sun by his donkey and cart. We visited a very big pre-christian ring fort and looked about us to the Cliffs of Moher, Hags Head, The Loop in the distance and the 12 bens to the NW of us. It was magic. With Shane O'Grady on board we sailed back to Kilronan. Tried and failed to catch any fish but it was a beautiful sunny day and we had a cracker of a sail. Tied up to the Belgium boat that had tied up to us on Saturday

Day 12
Kilronan to Roundstone
We finally set sail from Kilronan early Thursday with the intention of going straight to Inishboffin but the winds were NW F4-5 and right on the nose. We tacked back and forth for hours and at one stage we were 5miles SW of Eerigh Light trying to get into a favourable position to round Slyne Head. But it was not to be. Having left at 0630 we were looking at an ETA of 2100 so decided to cut in to Roundstone. That was a great decision because as soon as we turned north we had fair winds on our port. We navigated with care through the approaches to Roundstone. I was last here on FR with Ray about six years ago. With Moritz on the tiller we sailed right up to a mooring without turning on the engine. Moritz's dinghy training paid off as he brought FR to a beautiful halt. Next morning we departed under sail alone.
Moritz went for a stroll and a swim at Gurteen Bay while I visited Kings Bar. Last time I was here with Ray we ended up being part of the background while RTE filmed a local Sean Nos singer with a wonderful name like JohnnyPatten Mike. We were locked into the bar for the filming while Ronan Collins interviewed JohnnyPateen. There followed a sing song with Ray, myself and the aforementioned JPM.
I was beginning to wonder where Moritz had got to when he arrived into Kings about 2200. We were treated to two plates of toasted sandwiches when we enquired whether there was a chipper in the village. There isn't and the sambos were on the house. What lovely people. I met a guy called Billy Quinn who is connected with Galwegians where Liam Weldon plays. Of course he knew Ray.



Day 13
1st July
Roundstone to Inisboffin
Without any sound we gently slipped the mooring and sailed away from Roundstone. 0630. It's a tricky enough bit of navigation going west because of hazards but we sailed WSW for a point 3 miles south of Slyne Head. We motored at 4 knots against choppy seas. Once we were west of Slyne Head we turned north and the boat moved into its true element with a six knot sail. We were a bit apprehensive about Slyne Head because everybody mentions it with respect. And there was a big sea as we passed it. A British boat closer to the Head than we were struggled to make way against the tide and the sea but once they cleared the head they passed us to the east. We wondered why they were faster and had a look at the main sail. It was saggy and creased. With a tweak of the outhaul and a tightening of the vang it took on a much better shape! Another plus for Moritz's dinghy training. I had thought that the sail was just banjaxed with age. But no..... it filled and curved beautifully.
11 degrees took us through High Island sound. This is a beautiful island with remarkable monastic remains. We paused once through the sound to try for fish but again we failed. Where are all the mackerel?
There are two towers as transits into beautiful Boffin harbour and we entered and anchored with a group of four other sailing boats off the main ferry pier. It took about eight hours and I was happy to get to Boffin. We went ashore and M had a shower in the community centre. The caretaker has to switch on the heating for an hour to heat the water. No charge cause the water was only lukewarm. Next day I requested a shower and was told to call back in an hour. This time the water was hot and I paid 3 euro! This is a beautiful island. It has been inhabited for nearly 10,000 years. In 1850 it had a population of over 1000. Now it's 150. There are three hotels. We went to Doonans where there was a trad group playing. Heaven.


Day 14
Boffin - Cleggan - Boffin
Sally, and John Hillis had left Cork on the 0825 bus to Galway. This prepared them for the sea journey ahead! They arrived in Clifden at 1430 and got a 12 euro cab ride to Cleggan. FR arrived 15 minutes before them. Its 5.5 nM and we had a perfect sail across with southerly F3-4. With our new found cockiness we approached to within 500 metres of the pier with full main and full jib doing 6 knots! Furled the jib and with main only came very close to the pier before dropping anchor. No engine. Sally and John arrived and we bought some supplies before sailing back out. Tried our hand at catching dinner and got two mackerel and two big pollack. Dinner! While dinner was being prepared by Sally there was a call on Channell 16 for Fine Resolution. It was the bould Pat Ryan that we had met on Inishmaan. He was on the pier preparing to board another boat, Samphire for a few days sailing. He and the skipper, Kevin called out on their dinghy for a chat. Kevin has crossed the Atlantic on his boat. We met up with them later in Days bar. We also met a Welsh crew 10 days out of Aberystwyth on a 26 footer. They are going around anti-clockwise..... the protestant way..... despite a F6 forecast from the south for the next day they were going directly for An Daingain the next afternoon. 'We'll still average 3 knots', said the skipper..... So a few pints with Pat, Kevin, and the Welsh lads before returning back on the dinghy. The tide had really dropped and we had to jump down on to the dinghy. Four souls went to sleep on board and there was no one up before 1100!

Day 16
4th July
Inisboffin to Frenchport
Left Inishboffin at 0930 with John Hillis, Moritz, Sally and Pat on Board. We arrived in Frenchport just south of Erris head about 1930. The winds were very light southerlies and Moritz managed to get the occasional 4 knots but we were averaging 3. About 1300 we reckoned we would not make Frenchport before dark so reluctantly we started the engine and motored at 5 knots. This is an amazing part of the coast. The huge cliffs of Achill at 624 metres are the highest in the country. We passed close to the beautiful Inishkea islands south of Black Sod Bay and the impressive Black Rock. We managed to catch a dozen mackerel and after navigating the big swell in the entrance we dropped anchor in Portnafrancach. This is a remote spot with nothing but a few fishing boats anchored and a little slip. It's five miles from Belmullet. After a slap-up dinner the two hardy bucks went ashore on the dinghy. Sally and I stayed aboard. Despite the remoteness of the place the two adventurers managed to find a pub and got a taxi back to the slip later. Next morning we were all sad to see Moritz leave. He had done the entire passage from Baltimore 16 days earlier. His sailing skills and resourcefulness had been a huge asset. We would carry on without him but it would not be the same. He hitched to Cork and 15 lifts and 24 hours later he was in Skibbereen.
In the afternoon Sally, John and Pat set off for Belmullet. There was a gale forecast so after putting out 40M of chain we left FR to the mercy of the elements. We walked 3-4 miles through wild and remote country with wildflowers galore before two young Dutch marine biologists gave us a lift. The locals were not interested in stopping for three disreputable and scruffy looking characters. So to Belmullet and we booked in to the Strand Bay Hotel. After a quick shower we had the mother and father of a BLT with chips. Then after a stroll about town there was nothing for it except a pint. Healys in the centre of town is in the same family for four generations. It's a gem. It's a tiny place and the owner is a lovely friendly man. He had trinkets and artefacts and knick-knacks going back to the flood. It's like a museum. There were a few characters in there that made me feel like I was in a play. Imagine a cross between J.B. Keane and Martin McDonagh. After a few pints the landlord informed us that he always closed at 1800 so we retired to the next nearest watering hole. This is the WORST PUB IN THE WORLD!. We would have just walked out again but we were in the company of a local that we had befriended in Healy's. This was a horror show. It was a small metal box with a few local lads raucously skulling cans of cider. The racing channel was blaring. The demented looking barman was ogling the racing post and this nasty looking guy at the bar was playing with two live lobsters. Awful.
But Belmullet is a pretty little town and it was good to have a night ashore.
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Day 17
5th July
Frenchport to Killybegs

Departed Frenchport at 1900 and arrive next morning in Killybegs at 0700. This was the first night sail. The was an anti-cyclone 200 miles west and the weather was very mixed with four separate forecasts for four different parts of the coast. There were gales in Munster. F6 in the Irish Sea. But Donegal Bay was promised good for Tuesday night Wednesday morning so we decided to go for that. Its 63 miles and the longest leg so far. We talked about our options over breakfast in the hotel and John realised that he was under time pressure and that landing in Killybegs early Wednesday would be very awkward for him so he decided to head back to Cork. We had only spent three or four days together but I really enjoyed his company and his sense of humour even if he is an Aston Villa fan. Hey! Nobody's perfect!
So John hit the road and got to Cork about 2130 and Sally and I got some supplies (chocolate) before getting a cab back to the boat. It was blowing a good F6 SE and with this at our back we took the dinghy out to FR. We spent the day getting ready for our first night passage and hoping the forecast was correct and the winds would ease in the evening. There were still strong gusts and white water. But it did ease and at 1900 we motored (sorry M) out of Frenchport with two reefs in the main. Once we passed Eagle Island and our scheduled turn to starboard for a run across Donegal Bay we took the reefs out and we zipped along at about six knots. We had good tide, good winds and no rain all night long. It was still quiet bright at 2400 and again at 0415. It was really only fully dark between 0100 and 0300 (Sally's watch). On a beautiful calm sunny morning we dropped anchor in Killybegs near some supertrawlers, had tea and slept. We went ashore in afternoon. It's an economically desolate town, but there are reminders of what it once was. Today, all is quiet, supermarket closed, hotel closed, fish factory on short hours. We walked 1k to garage to get diesel as the fuel depot on the pier was closed and luckily got a lift back from a local woman. She is married to a fisher man and was telling us about the changes that have happened here. Once the biggest fishing port in these islands it has now all collapsed. The boats now fish so far out it is easier to land in Norway and this is seriously affecting the local economy. We had a dodgy fish and chips and a pint and went back on board.

Day 18
6th July
Killybegs to Portnoo
We left Killybegs at 09.30 and arrived in Portnoo at 18.35. We sailed past Rotten Island in glorious sunshine. We had no wind for the next three hours as we headed west towards Raitlin O'Birne but it was HOT. We passed the Sliabh League cliffs which are 594 metres high and spectacular. But as we turned north to the sound the rain arrived and we spent the next four hours fighting our way north in the wet with the wind on our nose. If it wasn't for the jackets that Ray bought in Penny's we would have been soaked. Arrived Portnoo 18.30 picked up a visitors mooring went ashore, chicken and chips (very good) and a few pints (very good also) we were so tired at that stage Sally said she would have slept on a pig fight.

Day 19
8th July
Portnoo to Aranmore
Depart Portnoo at 10.30 and arrived Aranmore 17.30 . We travelled only 15miles in 7 hours. The day began almost too well in bright sunshine. We raced along at 6 knots towards the south tip of Aranmore in a northern breeze.
From the southern tip of Aranmore to Tory is only 20 miles and we decided to continue about 8 miles west so that when we tacked we could make Tory. As we headed west the wind freshened to a good force 5 and the wind veered NE. This sank our hope of making Tory. We decided to make for Aranmore instead. For hour after hour we beat into the NE wind before rounding the northern end of the island, picking up the transits and finding some visitor moorings south of Calf Island. Sally had her hand on the tiller for 7 hours non-stop. We dropped the anchor near a visitor mooring and managed to get wrapped around it. We later sorted that. We then discovered a bottle of wine which John had left and we very happily opened it. Thank you, John. The winds were too fresh to go ashore, so we did three days washing up (where are you now John?) and Sally cooked up a very tasty and very unhealthy concoction. The oil pressure alarm sounded during the day when the engine was on low revs and we realised we needed to top up on lube oil. So we are going ashore tomorrow to get ten litres of oil. We may be here tomorrow night.

Day 20
9th July
Today we went on the ferry to Burtonport, hitched into Dungloe and got a cab back to Burtonport before returning on the ferry. The ferry trip is a delight. It's a narrow channel and both sides are lined with what appears to be sandstone with a pink tinge. There are numerous tiny perfect beaches lining the way.... I think west Cork has a serious challenger! Once ashore we discovered that the only place to get oil was Dungloe about 5 miles away. A lovely gentleman stopped and offered us a lift. He told us stories of the area including the Aranmore disaster of 1937 when a ferry to the island carrying returning bothies from Scotland sank and about 30 souls were lost. One woman lost her husband, three daughters and three sons. There is a curious monument in Burtonport to two boats that were lost in the 70's. Within two years there were two boats lost from here in Rathlin O'Birne. One with six crew and the other with five. Once in Dungloe we realised that it was cheapest to buy 20L of lube oil for 50 euro. We tried hitching back but the rain looked ominous and we gave in and called a cab. Back in Burtonport we had fish and chips and a pint before taking the ferry back to Aranmore. The channel is well marked and we could have come across ourselves but it looked very dodgy on the charts. Next time we will......... Back ashore with our 20 litre drum we went to Earlys bar for a few pints. Sadly (and uniquely!) the bar ran out of Guinness after only one pint! I have since been in contact with my solicitor but alas I have no case. Back to the dinghy and on a very calm evening we drank tea and looked over at the Aranmore lifeboat. There are two. One is a Severin Class similar to Kilronan and the other is a small craft.

Day 21
10th July
Aranmore to Tory
Departed Aranmore at 1230 and arrived Tory Island at 1710. We were delayed leaving because some of our instruments were not working. No Log, and no Depth. It took a few hours of chasing cables (the control panel needs a major redoing) but eventually we got them sorted. We hoisted the main, started the engine and slipped the mooring. There are good transits into Aranmore and we used them to get back out. We immediately met a large group of bottlenose dolphins who gave us a wonderful send off for at least fifteen minutes. They were BIG dolphins. We passed west of Owey Island and inside the Stags before making straight for Tory. We kept the engine going all the way partly because the winds were very light and partly because I wanted to see how it was doing. After the oil light coming on during the last passage I wanted to give it a good run. It went like a sewing machine..........We were tipping six knots for most of the way and as we came within a mile we dropped sail, picked up the very obvious transits and motored into Camusmore Bay harbour and West Town. The ferry berth was free so we made a temporary stop there while we had a look about. We decided to pull ourselves back on to a trawler and we were told she would not be moving for a couple of days. We were delighted to be here in this special place on a beautiful day. So up to the hotel, pass the famous Tau Cross and had a pint. The view back over to Donegal is breath taking. So up to the bar goes I and in my best Irish I said 'Pionta Guinness agus leath-pionta Guinness le do thoil'. I was met with a blank stare from the Czech barman! Sally translated and we sat outside in the sunshine looking down at the harbour. We immediately noticed the amount of dodgy cars going back and forth. All twenty years old or so and fairly battered. There was even a 7 year old speeding along the pier on a quad! We had more fish and chips and watched another yacht arrive. She was a lovely 26 footer and of course as soon as she tied up the crew arrived up to the hotel. Richard the skipper and John and Mike the crew. They had left St. Kilda the previous morning and 170 miles later arrived in Tory. That was some journey. Before it was evacuated in 1930 St. Kilda was the most remote inhabited island in Scotland being about 50 miles west of Harris. They had a pint and then went off in search of something other than chips. I went back to the boat to get some warmer clothes only to find that the trawler was ready to go out. I called Sally and she came down and together we moved FR to raft off the 26 footer. The fishermen said they were only going out for '20 minutes to shoot some nets'. So we were just adjusting our lines when the Czech waiter arrived at the boat. He was unhappy that we had not paid our tab! I explained what had happened and said we would be back at the hotel in ten minutes. We had another pint there and then headed west to the Community Social Club were we met the three sailors. This bar / hall had a PA system set up and the barman and Richard went up and did a few numbers on guitar and bass. They were really good and apparently Richard is in a band. The hall was almost empty except for us. We were joined by Patsy Dan Rogers, The King of Tory. He personally welcomes every arrival to Tory. This may sound weird but he is a lovely decent man of integrity with a deep love of his island and of his community. He is also a member of the Tory school of primitive (hate that word) art. When Sally said that she would like to see some of his work he disappeared for a few minutes before coming back with three framed canvasses. They were for sale but there was no heavy sell. I really enjoyed being able to practice the language with him. As the night wore on there was an impromptu session with two concertinas, two guitars, an accordion and Sally on spoons! We left 'early' at 0200 and as we walked the few hundred yards back to the harbour we heard the unmistakeable cry of the corncrake. I had never heard it before but Sally had. There are about 20 birds on the island. Kraaak.........Kraak.......
Back aboard we had to adjust the warps for the tidal drop. I was up at 0400, and 0830 to check......
Next morning we slept on until almost noon before helping the 26 footer to slip away. Richard suggested that if we called to Sheep haven (20 miles east) he would look after us for supplies and a spin on his rib. It was a hot sunny day. We did a few jobs and as we were getting water from the tap on the pier a local man suggested that there was better water from a nearby well. He offered to show us where it was and we filled the remaining bottles. I think it looks dodgy cause its green but Sally says its 'real water'. The King arrived down to greet the ferry and we had a long chat about the island and 'Egyptians' worshipping at the Tau cross before St. Colmcille brought Christianity to the island.........
We bought 40 litres of fuel and so we are now fully stocked. This brings our diesel usage to 100 litres for the trip. Sally cooked up a big pasta dish. Yum. We took a walk to the eastern end of Tory. This is the highest point and the location of a promontory fort connected with Balor the one-eyed king. The place is spectacular and full of high cliffs and coves and sea birds...... and we heard the corncrake again. There are rabbits everywhere. From here you get a wonderful view right along the island. We could see a large ketch approach the harbour. It turned out to be Celtic Mist..........once belonging to CJH. His son has now given it to the Irish Whale and Dolphin Group. She is en route to her new base in Kilrush having been up the east coast as part of the Tall Ships race out of Waterford. We met the skipper and the mate, Fiach and Gary, in the hotel and later in the Social Club. Gary has done Ireland to Spain solo and Fiach has been pretty much everywhere as well. Patsy Dan Mac Ruairi, the King arrived into the club and produced his accordion. He gave a lively rendition of 'The Banks'. Once aboard I set the alarm for 0600 but could not drag myself out of the leaba until 0815. We untied our lines and slipped away from Tory. Though we were only here for 36 hours it felt like we were leaving friends behind. This is a special place and we will be back.

Day 24
12th July
Tory to Port Salon
Departed Tory at 0900 and anchored in Lough Swilly at 1530. The wind was a F3 right on the nose so we motored most of the way at 4 knots until we rounded Fanad Point and turned into the Lough. It was from here that the Flight of the Earls took place in 1607. O'Neill and Red Hugh O'Donnell sailed away leaving Ireland to the Crown. The visitors' moorings were all taken with paddle boats and dinghies so we dropped anchor in 7M about 400 metres from a pier. It was a bright sunny day and the bay and adjacent beach were busy with holidaymakers. Kids in wetsuits were jumping off the end of the pier to the water about 3 metres below. We ate the remains of yesterday's pasta special and then plotted our next leg tomorrow. There can be 3 knots of tide off Malin Head so after much research we plan to leave at 0600 and pass Malin Head just before the tide sets easterly. It will be against us for the run into Portrush but we will have got the worst of it behind us......

Day 25
13th July
Port Salon to Portrush
This was a sail which started off beautifully. We slipped the anchor in Lough Swilly at 0715 and with the ebb tide had a beautiful sail to Malin Head. As we entered the Inishtrahull Sound I was conscious of the words in the pilotage book.... this is the most challenging Sound on the north coast, more so than Tory or Rathlin. But we had the tide with us and a gentle F2 on the nose after we turned east into the sound and it was a 6 - 7 knot motor to Inishowen Head. So now though we were safely through the passage the tide turned against us and we took over three hours to make the last ten miles to Portrush. We arrived in this bustling seaside town (think Kilkee by fifty) and tied up to a pontoon right in the centre of the harbour. Northern Ireland here we come, with the tricolour stashed safely (?) below. There is a pontoon right in the harbour and we found space on that. The very welcoming harbour staff gave us the key to the shower building. There is no charge for showers. We were not to pay again until we reached Kilmore Quay. This is a very busy town and the day after the 12th it was full of holiday makers. We went ashore to get some supplies and decided that we would stay at least two nights. We were so near to the Giants Causeway that we just had to go. Ruairi had said that it's a must see place though Dr. Johnson said that it's worth seeing but not worth going to see. Next day we got a 10 pound cab ride there and a 5 pound bus ride back. It is an amazing sight. It's not just the extraordinary basalt columns but the 12 miles of beautiful cliffs that make it a wonderful place to visit. We were lucky because it was hot sunny day. The bus back took us through the seaside village of Portballintrae which was also festooned with Union Jacks from every lamp post. We were no sooner back aboard when the harbour master asked us to pull out to allow a larger boat on to the pontoon and we could raft off him. This we did. Later that evening we were having a chat with a family who were trying to catch conger off the pier when the skipper of the bigger boat invited us on for a drink. Derek, Willy and ????? were almost finished their circumnavigation having started from Strangford Lough where they are based. They had tried that day to anchor off Inistrahull but could get no holding so arrived in Portrush.

Day 27
Friday 15th July
Portrush to Ballycastle
Departed 0600 and arrived 0950.
We had a lovely passage under the Causeway cliffs and past Sheep island into Ballycastle......'at the ould Lamas fair boys were you ever there? Where you ever at the fair in Ballycastle O!'
We had no wind and so we motored with the tide this twenty mile hop. We tied on to a pontoon before the harbour master, John Morton, beckoned us in to the marina. We tied up and had chat with him. Then we both tried to catch up on sleep before having a look about the town. It has lots of hardware stores.....! Sally got a haircut, we had a few coffees, shower (again no charge) and then back to the boat. The forecast for the next few days was poor. We spent ages looking at the tides and the forecast. We had no internet access and we were not hearing any weather on the VHF. I called Daniel and he read out the Sea Area Forecast for the Lough Foyle to Carlingford area. There was a 6 out there but that was this evening, The morning was 4-5 and the tides were good so we decided to leave at 0645. We queued for 30 minutes to get fish and chips in Morton's and they were good but you got so much that one would have done the two of us. We had met Blue Moon and her skipper Raymond in Portrush and he now tied up next to us. He's in a motor cruiser and based in Lough Neagh. We went to the Harbour Bar for a few pints where the stereo was playing old Planxty and we met a lovely German couple from Berlin who are on a 10 day walking tour of the North. Raymond and his wife Margaret appeared before a dodgy keyboard player killed the ambiance. We had put a load in the laundry and left it in the drier overnight.

Day 28
16th July 2011
Ballycastle to Glenarm
Departed 0645 and arrived 0915
We did this 22 mile hop in 2.5 hours!!!!
We planned our passage to use the flood SE going tide. This was to start soon after 0700. As we approached Fair Head in a calm sea we were doing 4.5 on the log. I asked Sally to check our speed over the ground (S.O.G.). We were doing 10.8 knots. Six knots of tide.... We rounded Fair Head and for the next hour we had a very rough ride. There was a F4 against us and a mad tide with us. The sea was piling up in to a short 2 metre swell which was breaking in places. At times our log was showing 1.5 knots while our SOG was 8.8 knots. It got particularly bad passing Tor Head and I was concerned that we might fail to maintain our heading and be turned. That would have been bad news because the sea was too big to run with it at our back and we would not have made any headway against the tide. So we ploughed on through the waves. There was no Plan B. We had to keep going. It was not pretty to look into the distance and see breaking waves up ahead. The main consolation was the fact that we were making over 8 knots and we had only 12 miles to go. With about seven miles to go the sea state calmed almost completely and we had a relaxing though rapid sail into Glenarm marina. Sally took the boat up to the pontoon and once we tied up we were greeted by the harbour master Billy who made us very welcome and suggested a more sheltered berth to us.
We spent four nights in Glenarms because of the weather. At times it was blowing a F8 -9 in the North Channel and so we stayed tucked in safely in this lovely little marina. It has a resident Black Guillemot population that nest in the harbour walls and add a delightful air to the place, a fact which we were at pains to point out to the struggling local tourist office. When we arrived in Bangor 5 Star marina a few days later they had a whole page in their brochure about THEIR guillemots.... so Sally sent a card to the Glenarms office saying 'Check this out!'
There is a delightful walled garden which is seriously overpriced at five pounds but we went in anyway. Its calm and tranquillity was a wonderful balance to the stresses of the sea.....
Glenarm is again awash with Union Jacks. Every second building is empty. Most businesses have shut down. We frequented the first pub on the Main St which we soon identified as being of the friendly persuasion by virtue of the St. Anthony collection box on the counter. Our friendly host Steve agreed that introjecting a Tricolour into the maze of Union Jacks would cause a riot.... so the nationalist community kept their head down. It needed a wonderful sense of humour.... We watched Darren Clarke win THE Open and one local remarked that 'We have three majors now while our Lords and Masters are struggling....'
It was good to relax here and on the Monday we took the 40 mile bus trip into Belfast. Return ticket was 8 pound and that included all metropolitan services...... Once in Belfast bus station we hopped into a black taxi. Sally was on a search for her father's home place. We found one house in Arizona Street but the Clonard Gardens house was gone. This had been her Grandparents house off the Falls Road.... the whole area had been re-developed. There was a memorial garden here to commemorate the lives lost in the violence. The taxi driver took us on a short tour of the Falls and the Shankill. These two ghettoes are mirror images of each other. The only difference being the flags that are flown. Both areas are poor and stark but the wall art is spectacular.

Day 32
20th July
Glenarms to Bangor
We finally left Glenarms on Wednesday and with a cold N F4 on our tail we tied off the main and rocked and rolled to Bangor. We left at 0915 to catch the south going flood tide and arrived in Bangor about 1430. This is a five star marina right in the centre of town. It cost 24 pounds for the night but this included electricity and showers. In fact we have not had to pay for any showers or power in any of the NI marinas. In our one night stay in Bangor we had a memorable encounter with the Royal Ulster Yacht Club. The pilotage book says that 'they welcome visitors'. So in a spirit of rapprochement, friendliness and curiosity we searched out and found an imposing red brick building overlooking the bay. There did not seem to be much activity but we approached the pin-coded entrance as three blue-rinse ladies were exiting so we slipped in to the entrance hall. This little foyer is awash with Royal memorabilia. The Queen is the Patron. The Commodore is the Duke of Something. The last entry in the visitors book (before Sally Cush... Spangle Hill Sailing Club) was Lady Blah de Blah. My humble Cork roots were definitely showing as we wondered what lacquered door we should (or should NOT!) open. A sign said that denim was not allowed in the Front Bar. A door said Strangers Bar. But there was not a sound or a sniff of activity. A slightly strange and silent man appeared. To our eternal relief he assured us that he was going to take down some flags (I had been very concerned about this) and that he would be back in a moment. So we waited and looked at the signed photographs of HRH Elisabeth until the strange man reappeared and walked silently past us and disappeared. We made a few forays to find a bar until we eventually decided that this was not a fun place to be and so Sally signed the visitors book and we left. We walked back into the centre of Bangor and found a delightful pub called Feallys. Without as much as a word they filled us a pint and a glass. God bless Ulster hospitality.




Day 33
21st July
Bangor to Ardglass
We left Bangor at 0715 and arrived Ardglass at 1335. It was wet and miserable as we sailed west to the Copeland Sound. We entered the Sound with a F 3-4 on our tail. We picked up the red buoys on our starboard because the buoyage is north going into Belfast Lough. After we passed through the sound we had an easy motor sail right down to the delightful village of Ardglass which wins hands down as the nicest place we have stayed in since Tory. It is full of small local fishing boats and none of the supertrawlers we saw tied up in Killybegs. Again the electricity and showers were all included at 20 pounds. We found a local hostelry with wi-fi and two lovely barmaids one of whom greeted us with 'wil ye be wantin to be fed?' The other lassie sported a Down jersey and reminded us that they were playing Cork next Sunday in the qualifiers. I reminded her that Cork has one thing that Down does not........the Sam Maguire.
We had a lovely evening in Ardglass. This is a delightful little town just south of the entrance to Strangford Lough. It has a little marina and a few connected small harbours one of which is delightfully called Gods Pocket because it is a safe haven. The entrance is well buoyed but the channel is narrow and shallow and we met a couple taking their 36 footer out by crane because they had wrecked their rudder a few days earlier reversing out at low water. We were surprised to see a huge tricolour flying over the local fish factory in the harbour... the first we saw outside of Belfast. We met the manager and paid him 20 pound which included showers and electricity. Then we took a stroll around this delightful little town which once harboured 500 herring boats. We did some shopping and brought the grub back to the boat before going out to the pub to get wi-fi and then getting fish and chips in the bar!
We were joined by an American man that we had seen earlier in the marina in a 44 footer called Colleen. He appeared to be a single handed sailor who had arrived from Scotland and was going down the east coast. A chatty friendly man who when Sally said he was going in the wrong direction (by missing the West) replied with a smile 'that's the story of my life!'.
Then we met the English couple with the banjaxed rudder who seemed in remarkably good form..... thank god for insurance... before we gave in and had more Fish and Chips.

Day 34
22nd July
Ardglass to Howth
We decided to leave early the next morning partly because the tide was dropping after 0430 and partly because it was a long sail at 55 miles. Up at 0530 and we departed soon after. We had a cracking sail up until 1030. The wind was slightly behind our starboard beam and there was a following sea. We touched 8 knots on the log at times. Then around 1030 the wind slackened then disappeared so we had to motor for the next 7 hours. But it was a hot sunny day and we put on the autopilot and took turns off watch to get some rest. Eventually we reached Lambay Island which is the only inhabited island on the east coast before rounding Irelands Eye and in to Howth harbour. We had called up earlier on Ch 80 and been told to go a certain berth G7 which was a very tight fit. There was only room for a fender between us and the other boat. Paid the fees, 31.30, before going out to find an ATM and having a coffee in the town. Then a shower and a chat with my friends Ger and Maire Dorgan who we are planning to meet later for a drink. The sun is shining and the outlook is good!


Day 35
23rd July
Howth to Arklow

We left Howth at 0600 and arrived in Arklow about 1500. We had a NW F3 which was giving us 5 - 6 knots under sail alone until about 1030. Then it faded and the engine came on for the rest of the trip. I had calculated getting to within 5 miles of Arklow before the tide changed but we had two knots against us 12 miles from there. But it was calm and it was hot so using the autopilot we took nearly 4 hours to do the last 12 miles. There was nothing to do but sit and watch for pots. After the revolution those who put out pots to catch harmless crustaceans will be deported. We arrived in Arklow which is at the mouth of the Avoca River. There is a harbour on the left hand side and a small marina on the right. There is also a very long pontoon on the river. We tied up to the pontoon. We had no sooner done so then a gentleman suggested that we move to a different part of the pontoon as the 'racing boats would be in soon'. We later saw several visiting boats moored there. Not a bother though. Arklow is a delight. The wide expanse of the Avoca River dominates this lovely town. There is one very wide stone bridge with about 20 arches spanning it. The place has a sense of doing ok with very little dereliction and not to many closed down businesses. The facilities are excellent and the showers and electricity are included in the very reasonable mooring fees. There is a large shopping centre with Dunnes, Aldi and a cinema complex two minutes' walk from the pontoon. I had one look at the tides and realised that we would have to leave at 0230 the next day to make Kilmore Quay. That was that. We decided to stay at least a day and maybe two. We had done four long runs Wed - Saturday and we needed a rest. So Sunday was the first day off since the previous Tuesday in Glenarms. We went to the movies. Brendan Gleeseon in the Martin (my old friend) McDonagh produced 'The Guard'. Brilliant dialogue and a wonderful piece of acting by Gleeson though the pace does drop a bit at times. I laughed out loud a lot.
Monday was a day for doing a few jobs on the boat. I saw that by waiting until Tuesday we could leave at 0500 and make Kilmore Quay ( hopefully) at about 1500. So we dropped a bag of laundry to the local laundry and I picked up some fuel and oil filters and changed the oil. Then it was a hot sunny afternoon pottering about on the boat. I removed one of the smaller windows to see if they could be resealed because they all leak. The good news is that they can be done and the bad news is that I only had a brown sealant on board so it looks crap but it doesn't leak!
Day 38
26th July
Arklow to Kilmore Quay
Departed Arklow at 0700 and arrived in Kilmore Quay at 1645. We were unsure what the best time to leave Arklow was. On this trip the tides were the main consideration. There are long North / South sand banks along the Wexford coast where the depths go to a few metres and the tidal race can be 4 - 6 knots. I spent a few hours on Sunday trying to figure out the optimum time for departing. A local sailor with vast experience said that it was very simple. Going to Kilmore meant leaving 90 minutes before high water Arklow. But this made no sense to me. According to my tide tables and the pilotage book this would have been a really bad time to leave. I discussed this with a boat from Liverpool and we both agreed that 0500 was the time to go on Tuesday. In the meantime however when I was getting diesel from the very helpful man in the marina office he told me that the tides in Arklow were 'weird' and that they had their own printout of the tides just for here. They were way different from the tables I had. He said, quiet assuredly. ' Kilmore..... depart 0700'. So we did. We arrived 10 hours later and would have done it in 8.5 but we pulled over to stand by a catamaran with a dodgy gearbox. We stayed with them for a while so the tide was against us as we rounded Carnsore Point. Then across St. Patricks Bridge before picking up the transits and into Kilmore Quay. It's a busy fishing port with a marina and friendly staff. But Oh! Why charge 1 euro for 2 minutes in the shower? There was a lot of activity with charter angling boats coming and going. There are a few seals that entertain the kids with their begging for fish. We had tea, went for a walk and had a pint before we came back aboard. THEN the Liverpudlian boat (that had left at 0500!!!!) arrived. I couldn't help but feel a bit guilty. They took 14 hours. Where did they go? They must have gone right outside the banks and so lost the tidal rush. It was really all about local knowledge and we followed it as close as possible. We left Arklow and sailed right over the first bank, Glassgorman. Then we motored to Rusk Channel were we were getting 6.5 knots. As we came out of this 5 mile stretch we noticed that a catamaran (which we had been following) was stopped. We came close and they told us that they had gearbox trouble. They got it sorted and carried on and we followed them outside the next channel which was the E side of the Long Bank. As we approached Rosslare the wind rose from the E. The cat appeared to be stuck again but with sail up they had an easy passage into Rosslare and an anchorage if they wanted.. We passed outside them and I called them up on the VHF but no answer. We rounded Greenore point and heading for Carnsore about four miles away the tide started to turn and the cat started to catch up! They were ahead as we rounded Carnsore Point. It was a slow last 6 miles doing 3.5 knots as we approached the Saltee Sound and over St. Patricks Bridge. We dropped sail and motored the last 1/2 mile into Kilmore. We got a call from the cat saying that they were going further west and thanks. Into the harbour where we tied up to the hammerhead before being directed to a berth. It was hot. We had tea. Then a walk around the amazing village of Kilmore Quay. There are loads of thatched houses which are really beautiful. We went to the local butcher but he was just closed. We walked to the only bar in the hotel a half mile away and had a pint. Then we decided NOT to have F & C so back to the boat for some home cooking. We were just aboard when the Liverpool boat arrived. I heard a voice say 'How did ye get here?'

Day 39
27th July
Kilmore Quay to Dunmore East
Departed Kilmore Quay at 1020 and arrived in Dunmore East at 1340. We motored all the way in a light SW wind. It was hot and sunny with a flat sea so it was a job for the autopilot. The Saltees looked beautiful in the sunlight and there were a good few angling charter boats heading in that direction. We had an uneventful run to Hook Head with its unmistakeable light house before turning in to Dunmore East. I tried calling the harbour master on VHF and mobile but no answer so we came in and rafted off a 39 foot cruiser. Had lunch in the sunshine and then at 1530 the rain arrived to test the window which I removed and resealed yesterday.
We went ashore for a stroll around Dunmore East. I first went to the office of the harbour master and he said we were fine rafted off the cruiser. Most of the fishing boats were off up the Irish Sea so there was no pressure on space. It was a hot afternoon and so we entered a hostelry for refreshments. As soon as the pint was on the counter they switched on the racing channel so we finished our drinks and went next door to Powers which was a bit more pleasant. Then in to Centra for supplies before returning to the boat for a big dinner which really wiped us out! But we could not rest as we had arranged to meet some friends at 8 in Powers. This we did but left soon after 10 because of an early start the next morning.

Day 40
28th July
Dunmore East to Crosshaven
Departed Dunmore East at 0620 and arrived at Roches Point at 1525. Nine hours to do 55nM. This started as a really fast sail..... touching over 8 knots..... then a bit of motoring off Ballycotton before picking up the wind again as we approached Cork harbour.
As soon as we left we turned WSW to Cork and had a N F4 on our starboard. With full main and full jib we screamed along at between 5.5 and 8.3 knots. It was literally hold on to the tiller! I guess that I should have reefed and I was seriously considering that option when the wind eased off a little off Tramore. Then it was time to check our position. We were 4 miles south of the rhum line. Not that we had any choice because staying on course would have turned us more into the wind and I would have struggled even more with the tiller. We had still made serious distance in (roughly) the right direction. Then it was porridge and cheese and crackers and tea. I got a great kick out of seeing Fountainstown through the binoculars. We were nearing home territory. Fair Head was far behind us. A fleet of small racers from the RCYC were looking beautiful under spinnaker as we rounded Roches Point. I sailed very close to Church bay and Bull Rock where I caught many a fish as a child. We called up Peter D. in the RCYC and he told us to contact Ch: 37 and they would tell us what to do. So we did and they said pick up a visitors berth and call once we were in. We rounded Fort Camden, which is now finally open to the public, and motored through the very lovely entrance to Crosshaven. A big sign said 'Set Down Visitors Berth' so we pulled in there and were then told that we could stay put there. Happy days. We're so used to making a second landing! Then we met Mark from the club who asked if we were the 'Round Irelanders' and he made us very welcome. After we registered we went in to the clubhouse where we met Sally's sister Judy. Then we were joined by John Hillis and his boys. After a pint there we went in search of the famous Chish & Fipps. Met Danny and Clare there and we scoffed our food on a bench. Then of course we had to have a pint in Cronin's. Though it was only the one it was a celebratory drink and one that I had been planning since we left Baltimore 6 weeks earlier.. Danny and Clare dropped us to the city where we collected the car in John Hillis house. Home at 2300 and slept like a log until nine the next morning.


Day 44
1st August
Crosshaven to Castletownsend
We left Drakes Pool in Crosshaven at 0740 and arrived in Castletownsend about 1650. The tide was just started to ebb as we motored past the moored boats in Crosshaven. I was with my son Daniel and my nephew Ben. It was a mild, damp and drizzly morning. We had a good tide with us and made fast progress past the Old Head and Three Castle Head and on to Galley Head. We had no wind but at least the rain had cleared. Now however the tide turned and right on cue the wind appeared, a F3 from the west. We had only about 15 miles to go to Sherkin Island which was the plan. We hoped to catch a few fish under the Baltimore Beacon and pull in to Sherkin for a late lunch, a walk and a few pints before carrying on to the mooring in Baltimore the following morning. But progress was now very slow. We could now turn right in to Union Hall or Castletownsend and get the breeze on our port or we could try tacking forward. We tacked. An hour and a half later we had made two miles. Castletownsend it was. We raced in the five miles at 5 - 6 knots before pulling over off the entrance to try our luck at fishing. The wind was still lively so we dropped the main in order to slow down enough to fish. But no luck and we carried on in to the anchorage off the village. We anchored in 5 metres in mud before Danny prepared some lovely crab claws that he had brought along. Then we put the little outboard on to the dinghy for the first time since..........Aranmore, Co. Donegal and went ashore. For the past few weeks along the North and East coast it had been all Pontoons or lying alongside. We then went ashore in Freddie Mercury as the dinghy is now called, and in to Mary Anne's for a feed which was good value and the service was excellent. The place was packed which I suppose was no surprise because it was the bank holiday Monday. A few pints and back aboard where Ben and Danny played some tunes on the guitar that had only seen the light of day once before on this cruise. They are both seriously good and a joy to listen to. We sat on deck until it became too cold before continuing below.
Day 45
Tuesday 2nd August
Castletownsend to Baltimore
Departed Castletownsend at 0930 and tied up at the mooring at 1330. Final leg of the 801 mile circumnavigation! We woke late to a calm, dry morning, hauled anchor and left for Baltimore. We raised the main even though there was little or no wind and motored past the Stags and outside the Kedge Rocks. I was tempted to go inside as it was so calm but the memory of the last passage through there together with the desire to get to the finish kept us outside. We cut the engine about a half mile outside the Beacon and caught a dozen mackerel in no time. Then we started the engine and with me standing in front of the mast and Danny on the tiller we came in under the Beacon. This was the moment when FR was crossing her own path. She had come out here 45 days earlier. I gave a silent prayer of thanks that all had gone well and now we were safely back to where we had started. We had some long and occasionally fraught passages and a lot of very early mornings when the rain made you want to turn over and sleep on but the need to make progress got you out and up. And now in the sunshine we were nearly there. With Sherkin on our port and Baltimore ahead we were finishing the cruise.
We were going a little slow as we approached the Loo starboard mark so I asked Danny to 'give it some welly'. He said that the engine was on full. But we were only doing 2.5 knots on a calm sea. Even against a strong tide we would get 4 + knots through the water. I lifted the engine cover and saw that the drive shaft was only slowly turning as it does when we are in neutral. We were only making way with the main and a gentle SE breeze. The engine sounded fine and we tried a quick dart of reverse. We stopped. Then out of reverse and into forward but all that moved us was the wind and at a snail's pace. This was incredible. 801 miles and the gear box packs in in the last half mile! I thought of the many times that we had started the engine when it just HAD to start to get us safely in out of wicked weather. Every marina and harbour we had entered we had needed that engine (almost). Off Fair Head we had really needed the engine. Now we had only the main sail to get us to the mooring. Luckily the wind was fair even if it was very light. Indeed it was easier with the light breeze. Better now to be doing 1.5 knots in the right direction than 5 knots. The bay was chock a block with racing dinghies, ferries, ribs, yachts. We ignored them all and made a bee line for the red rib which we had left on our mooring. Danny was still on the tiller. As we neared we could see the last thing we needed. Another yacht tied to the mooring.... It was starboard on to us with our dinghy lying along it. We had one shot to tie on. If we missed we were on a one way ticket to the lifeboat station! But Danny expertly brought us port side on and to a stop and I held us steady while he tied us off. We then had the chore of getting this other boat on to a nearby empty mooring which I realised was actually his. He must have found himself in the same spot recently. A passing dinghy took a long line over to the other mooring and we pulled her across. We then had a look at the gearbox and we could see that the cables were firmly attached and moving back and forth. We had reverse but no forward....? I assumed that there was something amiss in the gears themselves but my friend Sean now suggests that maybe the cable has slipped a little and just failing to engage forward. It may be a simple remedy.......... Ashore on the big dinghy (what comfort) and a few pints in the very hot sunshine while waiting for Sally to pick us up.
45 days is a slow circumnavigation of Ireland. But we were never in a hurry. In fact we enjoyed several nights in Dingle, Aran, Boffin, Tory, Portrush, Glenarms, Arklow and Crosshaven. We used about 180 litres of diesel. We had more motoring then we cared for but we had some brilliant sails. Castletownbere to Dingle and Dunmore East to Crosshaven being the two best. We had a 13 hour night sail across Donegal Bay. We had come through some bad weather off Aranmore and off Fair Head. We had some long hot sunny days and one day I even briefly took off my t-shirt. We had seen some amazing places and met some lovely people. We will be back for a longer spell to the Aran Islands, Inisboffin and Tory. Arklow is a surprisingly lovely place to spend a few days. We had pints in McCarthys Bar in Castletownberehaven, Dick Macs in Dingle, The American bar in Aran, Healys in Belmullet, Club Shosiolta in Tory, Steves in Glenarms and Cronins in Crosshaven. We met friendliness and helpfulness everywhere. Thanks to Matt for the bacon and cabbage in Kilkee. Thanks to Druid for giving us tickets when we had no right to expect them. It was a pleasure to meet Pat Ryan and his mother in Inis Meain together with Shane O'Grady. Patsy Dan Mac Ruaidhri, the King of Tory is a gentleman and a true advocate for his island. The humour and friendliness of the people of the North was in contrast to the strange 'welcome' we recieved at the RUYC.
To the people we sailed with
Moritz Muller
Marie-Leauw
Dan Gray
Shane O'Grady
John Hillis
Daniel Mohally
Ben Mohally

Let's do it again next year!

Pat & Sally

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