(Sunday) Here we are, back in Vuda Point Marina for one more night, with plans to have dinner with Steve and Trish on Curious before we head for New Caledonia and they head for the Yasawa Group in north-west Fiji and then to New Zealand. In the morning we'll cab to town for provisions and check out with Customs, then we'll sneak over to Musket Cove for a night (or two?) and leave for New Caledonia when the winds fill in.

We arrived in Vuda Point around 3:30, and although they have lots of space for boats, they've suggested we hang on the mooring ball that sits conspicuously in the center of the circular marina for the night, then get fuel the fuel we need at the dock in the morning, and after that move into a berth. The process of snugging in between two boats, tying 2 bow lines to shore and 2 out to mooring balls on the stern is a bit labor-intensive, and I think they're short-handed today. So that's what we're doing -- the dinghy is lowered from the davit so we can get off the boat, and we're now the centerpiece of the small marina for the night.

Our time in Denarau was fun. The cruise ship arrived this morning and anchored outside the shallow harbor, shuttling it's people into the tourist mecca of Port Denarau in bright yellow shore boats to be regaled by Fijian performers and directed to the Hard Rock Cafe and the clothing and souvenir shops. It felt odd, surrounded by sunburned tourists -- Allan kept saying, "We're in Fiji?" Our cruising has been so different from the way a big cruise ship travels.

We had a few great meals with friends Rod and Elisabeth on Proximity, and one very fun multi-national night with some new folks (above.) In all, our dinner group that second night had representatives from South Africa, England, Germany, Switzerland, Sweden, and America, dining in a restaurant owned by a Tunisian in Fiji. We had fun swapping stories with Ralph, the former Luftwaffe pilot cum retired airline Captain, who is now cruising on his American-made catamaran and having the time of his life.

The sail from Denarau Marina to Vuda was nice, a 4-mile ride up the sunny coast on a glorious Sunday afternoon. Halfway up Allan took advantage of the calm sea and clear water to jump in the water and see what clogged our generator intake this morning, causing it to auto-shutdown. The water in both Denarau and Vuda Point marinas is seriously yucky, so dropping sails and coming to a stop in the middle of the ocean is far preferable. What he found was a little puffer fish stuffed into the small intake hole with only his tail sticking out, poor little guy. It took a pair of pliers to get him out, but we're back in business now.

Returning to Vuda feels good; I think wherever you lay your hat the first time becomes a home of sorts, and having that connection when you're cruising offers a measure of comfort, at least for us. We even find we like the same mooring ball or corner of the port or anchorage when we make repeated return trips, as we have in Neiafu, Tonga, Vuda Point and Musket Cove, Fiji. Vuda is quiet, and we have our people here: Steve and Trish, tucked into "their" spot on the southern edge; Mohammed the taxi driver, standing by to help us in any way he can; Shan at the chandlery; the familiar faces in the restaurant and the store. We need these gentle anchors to give us some sense of stability. So even though Denarau had the energy, the music, the restaurant choices, the slick new docks - even though many prefer it over dull, quiet Vuda, we prefer it here.

(Monday) We've now moved to Musket Cove, and as I write a good-smelling Lentil Loaf bakes in the oven, the sounds of an a cappella Fijian singing group wafts across the water in lovely harmony, and Allan is fine-tuning our weather and route planning to New Caledonia. Okay, Lentil Loaf, I know. Most of you are wondering how that could be a good thing. But nearing the end of our trip has necessitated a creative approach to cooking the remaining ingredients that will be confiscated in Australia. Raw nuts, legumes, and dried fruits and vegetables will all be taboo, so my vegetarian leanings are in full swing, and I'm even getting at some of the raw foods cookbooks I brought along. I'm thankful Allan is such a willing experimetee as I mess around in the galley.

The updated report from the router and and weather planner to my immediate right (Allan) is that the winds seem to favor departing day-after-tomorrow. We've spent all our Fijian money, but there's always an ATM somewhere. Better yet, we can bide the time snorkeling and reading. Allan snagged the 5th Harry Potter book from the Vuda Point book swap shelf, so I'll be happy whether we're underway or sitting here in Musket. I'll post a quick blurb tomorrow when we decide for sure. Meanwhile, check out the latest Photo Gallery: Viti Levu & the Mamanucas.

PD (Post-dinner): The Lentil Loaf was GREAT!