Freya & Us

Nisos Oinoussa was lovely. On our first evening we strolled along the quay and harbour looking up at the village with pretty houses piled on top of each other going up the steep hill dominated by a huge blue church. The island was inhabited by several Greek shipping magnates and their lovely houses became derelict over the years. It has now been reinvented as a holiday resort and many of them have been lovingly restored as Greek holiday homes, but around 700 people still live here all year round. At this time of year many are empty but it's still very pretty and peaceful. White Satin followed us from Lesvos and obviously a G&T was required after we caught their lines.

In the morning we explored the narrow streets and stairs of the village in more detail examining each still derelict house as possible homes - as we do! There were a few potentials with stunning views....... We passed the mini market which was closed (Sunday) but lots of resident cats were very at home clustered around a huge sack of cat food! We followed a sign to an acropolis which a lady assured us was straight down the road but we never found it! We finished with a drink on the harbour where we watched a big American catamaran come in to moor. Later in the afternoon we had an email from Larry who we met on Limnos last year - 'where are you? We think we're moored along the quay'! What a nice surprise. We had lovely dinner with Gundel and Wolf-deiter before catching up with Larry and Carolyn, crew, on Harmonia.

Up to the village again in the morning to get a few essentials in the mini market and visit the cats again. Larry is the only yachty we know who roasts and grinds his coffee beans on board. It would be rude not to join them! Later we did a stunning walk around the west coast of the island, with beautiful views of Chios and Turkey, passing a monastery we'd seen from the sea and back across the top of the island. Beautiful but very hilly we certainly earnt our dinner!

On our final day on Nisos Oinoussa we needed fresh fruit and veg. In the mini market the previous day we'd been told where the 'greengrocers' was but not to go that day as it wouldn't be fresh. And so another climb up the hill to the shop where we found a very dark room with an old man in the corner chain smoking surrounded by boxes of surprisingly good looking fruit and veg even though not a huge selection. Stocked up we stopped for coffee in the bar opposite the boat as we'd been using their WiFi since we arrived. After lunch we thought it time to test drive our new dinghy and repaired outboard by visiting the 3 islands off of the village which created the very sheltered bay. The first has 3 churches and lovely views, the middle one had a sheltered beach for a swim and yet another church. A lovely afternoon and successful test drive. Yet more drinks with White Satin in the evening!

Our first proper sail this year! It was very short, only 5 miles from Nisos Oinoussa to Lagada on Chios but we sailed all the way. We tied up alongside on the quay - the only visiting yacht. Lagada is a very pretty fishing village lined with tavernas - we've been a couple of times before and loved it. After lunch we (I!) enjoyed a swim from the beach and we also enjoyed a lovely dinner in one of the tavernas later. Great day. Early the next morning we were disturbed by a huge wave in the bay reflecting and feeding on itself as it hit the quay. Freya started with a gentle rock which became harder and harder as we tried to get dressed to find out what was happening. We couldn't see any reason for it! I guess the wake of a ship out at sea but Freya had a nasty scratch on her hull just below the toe rail! Lesson learnt, even though it's empty sometimes it's better to go stern too! One side of the bay is covered in pine trees and looked like a perfect place to walk although we didn't know whether it was possible. After our trauma, we set off and found not only was it possible but there was a path running through the woods with occasional benches to sit on and enjoy the view - crystal clear turquoise water through the trees with the fishing village as a backdrop, stunning. The sea seemed to get a bit sloppy in the afternoons and so another visit to the beach later was more comfortable.

A cyclone had appeared on the forecast which was passing just south of us! We needed shelter and the only place to go was Chios 'marina'. It had been built as a marina but never adopted and developed and so had become very rundown and occupied by local fishing boats. There's no water, electricity or toilets but it's sheltered and had to be our next stop. It actually turned out to be a much nicer place than expected not far from town and set away from the busy road. On one walk along this road to check out a rustic taverna in an old fishing harbour, I heard a loud bang followed by a loud "exclamation" from Paul. A car's wing mirror had hit his hand! Luckily there was no visible damage but Paul's hand and arm felt as if they had an electric shock for a hour or so. We didn't feel like braving the road again that night so ate onboard instead.
Apart from concerns over how long we could stay without water and filling the holding tank we were nice and secure in the marina. As we watched the cyclone develop it changed course and headed west and south and so thankfully it passed us by with little more than strong winds - phew! A few days before arriving we'd sent Paul's uncle and aunty, George and Gia, who have a villa on Chios a message and had a lovely surprise when they replied saying the were there - they picked us up the next day and we left Gundel and Wolf-deiter keeping an eye on Freya.

We slipped very comfortably back into their routine - and their lovely home. Beach in the morning for a swim followed by coffee, back for late breakfast, relax by the pool soaking up the amazing views, drinks on the terrace, dinner on the terrace and relax scanning the sky for shooting stars - including a really bright one that went on forever (well nearly)! A lovely, relaxing few days. But they were going back to Wales and we needed to move south and so back to Freya.

There were threats that Greece may go back into lockdown and so we felt we needed to get closer to Samos, our over winter destination, so that we could get there quickly should that happen. We couldn't risk getting stuck on an island with no shelter. We headed for Ikaria, due south 46 miles. We started motoring, then the foresail as well for a while. Then the wind disappeared and the swell grew making it impossible to keep wind in the sail. We furled it and put the main up for stability which was better but it was flogging annoyingly. But about half way there the wind built again, the genoa came out again, the sea flattened and we had an amazing sail (yes, with no engine) for 4 hours with the wind on the beam and going in the right direction! Our destination was Evdhilos on the north coast of Ikaria. It's position with the prevailing northerly winds makes it hard to visit but conditions were just right. First impressions are very pretty.................