Freya & Us

Vessel Name: Freya of Wight
Vessel Make/Model: Westerly Oceanranger
Hailing Port: Portishead
15 July 2015 | Olbia - 4,152 NM
09 July 2015 | Castelsardo - 4,095 NM
02 June 2015 | Castelsardo - 4,095 NM
27 May 2015 | Alghero - 4,029 NM
20 May 2015 | Alghero - 4,029 NM
14 May 2015 | Alghero - 4,029 NM
07 May 2015 | Bosa - 4,007 NM
01 May 2015 | Calasetta - 3,924 NM
05 April 2015 | Teulada - 3,888 NM
28 March 2015 | Cagliari - 3,852 NM
10 March 2015 | Cagliari - 3,852 NM
28 February 2015 | Cagliari, Sardinia - 3,852 NM
26 November 2014 | Cagliari - 3,852 NM
07 November 2014 | Cagliari - 3,852 NM
07 November 2014 | Cagliari - 3,852 NM
21 October 2014 | Cagliari - 3,852 NM
12 October 2014 | Porto Corallo - 3,800 NM
03 October 2014 | Ottiolu, Sardinia - 3,716 NM
24 September 2014 | Cannigionie, Sardinia - 3,669 NM
22 September 2014 | Cannigionie, Sardinia - 3,652 NM
Recent Blog Posts
14 September 2022 | South Wales

Final Story

After 12 years, 8,924 miles, 376 ports of call we officially handed Freya to her new owner last night.

04 May 2022

Interactive Map

By clicking on the link below you can load an interactive map to see our route and explore the places we stopped at.

02 May 2022 | Kos - 8,924 NM

The end of another adventure

Time to move on as we needed to drop Ian and Jess off in Kos for their flight home. There wasn't a breath of wind as we motored to Kos harbour which is very atmospheric under the old castle. It all felt very hectic in the town after a few weeks exploring the tiny, peaceful islands. We were treated to [...]

24 April 2022 | Lakki, Leros - 8,914 NM

Stunning Aegean

It was 11 miles to Skala Patmos and an amazing broad reach sail all the way (almost!) - definitely what it's all about. The sea could've been flatter but it was as expected after the high winds. We went side to on the quay with a Finnish boat where it was very flat and peaceful, especially after the [...]

11 April 2022 | Lipsoi - 8,776 NM

At last, we’re off!

And finally we were ready to go! The engine started first turn, we let off the lines and left Samos marina. We've loved our extended stay on Samos but we're not sorry to leave the marina which is very is unprofessionally run. We were joined on our first trip for ages by dolphins just outside Pythagorio. [...]

07 April 2022 | Samos, 8,735NM

Very stressful final preparations

The engine was removed very efficiently and with great respect for the boat. It was taken to Zlatco's workshop for further investigation! They returned an hour or so later to clean up - very impressive and the engine bay has never looked so clean and shiny! It was very traumatic watching Freya having [...]

Final Story

14 September 2022 | South Wales
Lorraine Chapman
After 12 years, 8,924 miles, 376 ports of call we officially handed Freya to her new owner last night.

Definitely the end of an era for us, but upwards and onwards to new adventures.

Interactive Map

04 May 2022
Lorraine Chapman
By clicking on the link below you can load an interactive map to see our route and explore the places we stopped at.

Click here for the interactive map

Enjoy!

The end of another adventure

02 May 2022 | Kos - 8,924 NM
Lorraine Chapman | Very hot and sunny
Time to move on as we needed to drop Ian and Jess off in Kos for their flight home. There wasn't a breath of wind as we motored to Kos harbour which is very atmospheric under the old castle. It all felt very hectic in the town after a few weeks exploring the tiny, peaceful islands. We were treated to a delicious and very posh meal overlooking the sea and in the morning said our goodbyes as they waved us off. We had been a little dubious when we agreed to having Ian and Jess onboard to experience our cruising life as we'd never done anything like it before but we thought it was something we would've loved to do before we started out 10 years ago. They were with us for 6 weeks and we had a lot of fun and so a successful trip.

Then we were on our own again but heading back to Lakki to be lifted and return to our hovel. We started motoring to our chosen anchorage on Psersimos for a final night at anchor but soon had the foresail out to give us a boost. It was only 8 miles but as we approached our chosen anchorage it looked very exposed and not very interesting - we decided to head to the next bay. There was a lot of swell and not a lot of room or shelter and so onwards again! Back on Kalimnos we found the most perfect last night stop with high cliffs, a beach and calm blue sea. We picked up a restaurant mooring buoy but thankfully the 2 tavernas were closed and so we didn't have to go ashore! We had a lovely evening watching climbers on the hills and relaxing on our own in the bay. There were amazing stars too but it was still a little too chilly to spend long star gazing!

After looking for the perfect anchorage we were then only 12 miles from Lakki and so had a lazy start before motoring to Lakki marina where we were disappointed to find no staff to help us moor or tell us where to go! We managed but ended up with a huge lazy line too big for our cleats - but eventually we got ourselves sorted. We had a couple of days to do a lot of the decommissioning some things such as taking off the foresail is much easier on a quay than up in the air in a cradle! The list was gradually ticked and after a couple of days we motored to Partheni to pick up a buoy ready for our list of jobs in the morning. We'd been looking for dolphins in the calm seas for the last few passages and on the final leg we were rewarded by a very large one porpoising beside us although I think he was more interested in the fish farms than us! We had a few more jobs to tick off before our lift and then had a very peaceful and enjoyable last night afloat.

We had a tight schedule on lift day as we needed to get the ferry to Kos at 14.45! The boat yard had promised us the first lift after launching a boat first. We were up and having breakfast in the cockpit watching for signs of activity when dead on 8.00 we could see the lift moving. The other boat was in the water and we were on our way to the lift by 8.45 - we really should've had more faith! Freya really did have a very dirty bottom after 2 years in the water - but I think we were pleasantly surprised as it could've been a lot worse - it didn't seem to be slowing us down too much and so not as bad as expected. Not sure the guys in the boat yard would agree but they pressure washed her! As they put Freya in her cradle we went to the office to do the paperwork followed by the few final jobs on board and we were having lunch in Agia Marina by 12.30. We'd stressed about the tight timescale and wouldn't have believed it could be so smooth!

Checking into our hotel in Kos Town, The Triton, was a little stressful as we were expecting a sea view - a little luxury before returning to the caravan! We complained but they had nothing else! We suggested they refunded our money and we'd go elsewhere - we were thinking of the 5* hotel down the road where we'd had dinner with Ian and Jess. They clearly didn't want us to do that and managed to find us a junior suite with 'almost' as sea view by telling the people who'd booked it for the following day they'd have go elsewhere! It wasn't perfect but less hassle than moving! Kos again felt very noisy and busy as we explored on our first night - we'd definitely arrived in tourist land. We were picking up a car from the airport at lunch time the following day but before catching the bus we were able to go to the castle which had been closed due to earthquake damage on our previous visits. It dates back to the crusades and as well as interesting and in a stunning location it was beautiful and full of wild flowers. We got the bus to collect our hire car and then drove to the far west of the island expecting to find a monastery but instead found a quiet taverna where the monastery used to be in a great setting and with stunning views - perfect. We returned via the tourist resort of Kamari for ice cream and then Avlika, a salt lake on the north coast which had hundreds of flamingos finishing with a bottle of wine and nibbles on our balcony.

The ruins of Asklipieio, which date back about 2,200 years we're built by the offspring of Hippocrates and was a school and kind off health spa - absolutely fascinating! We do love piles of old stones. Just down the road was the Hippocrates Institute which also had a brown sign although we didn't really know what it was. It turned out to be a museum but clearly didn't get many visitors. An elderly man was quite excited to see us and gave us a tour of exhibits on Hippocrates methods in Greek (Paul translated) and he thoroughly enjoyed using me to demonstrate! There was also a physic garden which was disappointing as it was sadly neglected. We then visited Zia, a pretty mountain village which has become a major tourist shopping opportunity - we didn't stay long. We'd passed a few signs to Antimachia Fortress and obviously we can't resist a castle - it was huge and so impressive sitting high on a cliff and again dating back to the crusades. It was again neglected but we thoroughly enjoyed walking around the paths between the wild flowers and enjoying the views from the crumbling ramparts - another example of health and safety Greek style! Our last souvlaki of the trip finished the day and this leg of our adventure as we flew home the next day.....

Stunning Aegean

24 April 2022 | Lakki, Leros - 8,914 NM
Lorraine Chapman | Sunny & Calm
It was 11 miles to Skala Patmos and an amazing broad reach sail all the way (almost!) - definitely what it's all about. The sea could've been flatter but it was as expected after the high winds. We went side to on the quay with a Finnish boat where it was very flat and peaceful, especially after the bouncing around caused by the storm in Lipsoi. We were there late morning as it wasn't very far and so the first task was to find lunch in town. There was a little more open than in other places with a few nice shops and cafes. So much so we returned for a wander and a drink later. Patmos has a lovely atmosphere - a little touristy but in a nice way.

In the morning Ian and Jess hired a scooter to explore the island which we'd done by car on a previous visit and so we took the bus up to Chora and the monastery and enjoyed the fabulous views and a wander around the pretty narrow lanes of the village. After a drink to soak in the view we walked back down the hill to town for a souvlaki lunch.

Time was moving on and so we did the same - this time to new territory and Kalimnos. Another amazing sail the 29 miles on another broad reach but this time a nice flat sea. We picked up a restaurant buoy in Emborios, a bay on the north of the island which was very sheltered surrounded by steep mountains - stunning but very barren. We had an interesting moment when we noticed a very thick rope floating next to the boat which appeared to be attached to our buoy! We were clearly still attached and not moving and so we weren't sure what was going on but something was clearly wrong and so we moved to another buoy. Ian and Jess had decided to go out paddling in the dinghy and so they went to the new buoy to catch our lines - interesting method but at least we didn't run them over! We had a great meal ashore albeit at tourist prices.

In the morning there was no wind at all and a glassy flat sea as we motored around to the island's capital. Although not sailing it was a spectacular 12 mile journey between islands and past the dramatic cliffs. Kalimnos town was a 'proper' town spread around the bay and up the hill and not touristy at all. The harbour was huge and full of large fishing boats and commercial vessels. As we entered we were hailed by Yiannis and he caught our lines as we moored stern to on the quay for visiting yachts although we were the only one. We had an interesting afternoon exploring the towns narrow, chaotic streets and after dinner aboard ventured our again to sample the nightlife - well, a glass of wine in a harbour-side bar!

Still no wind in the morning as we motored the 29 miles to Palon, Nisiros our most southerly stop on this journey. There are reports that the harbour entrance is very shallow and needs regular dredging which isn't always carried out early in the season and so we entered very slowly and kept right and had no problem. The harbour is sheltered to the south which is one reason to be there as we have big southerlies forecast for the next day. We moored stern to in the corner and put on extra lines ready for the storm. Tony in the taverna near the boat was very helpful in lending us a long extension lead so that we could plug in to the only working tower which was 100m down the quay! As we plugged in we found there were already 3 other boats plugged into the single socket but no one seemed to be concerned when we put another splitter in! Later we saw a charter boat coming in who clearly didn't know they needed to stay right and so we went to the wall and shouted directions to hep them in. After helping them moor they also plugged into our extension lead!

During the night the winds picked up and the rain started. We battened down the hatches and waited for what was to come........

The winds picked up from early morning bringing rain too - but not too much although it was very grey and the rain full of red sand. We managed a walk along the coast in the morning and then a long Sunday lunch in Tony's (very helpful man) taverna right next to Freya so that we could keep an eye on her. It was a very bouncy day but all was fine.

We needed to explore Nisiros and so hired a car. On the first day we were joined by Ian and Jess and our first stop was the mountain village of Emborios which had been mostly destroyed in an earthquake but was being slowly restored. It was a steep climb through the pretty and atmospheric village's steep windy paths and steps and there were amazing views of the caldera below us in the centre of the island and across the Aegean to Turkey and neighbouring islands. Next was the caldera itself. Nisiros is a small island, only about 4 miles square and is essentially just a volcano with steep, very fertile sides and a huge caldera at its centre. The volcano is dormant but is clearly very much alive with fumaroles steaming everywhere and the strong smell and yellow colours of sulphur all around. There are several smaller calderas within the big fertile one and you can explore them all with just a few roped off areas around the dangerous bits. Absolutely amazing! Lunch was in Nikea, another very pretty mountain village with stunning views although this one felt a little over restored. We had coffee in the stunning town square with its monastery and black and white pebble decorated floor. After returning to Freya for a rest for a couple of hours we went to Mandraki, the island capital, in the evening. Very much a real Greek village rather than the restored blue and white everywhere and we found it very interesting and friendly while wandering its narrow streets and stopping for dinner. Just up the hill is Paleokastro (old castle) which dates back to 600BC and was a fortified acropolis. The stonework was fascinating, reminding us of the Inca walls in Peru. From the wall walk we settled down to watch the sunset which was a bit disappointing but the setting just stunning. All in all a very interesting and exhausting day!

As it's such a small island Ian and Jess decided to skip our 2nd day of exploring but we managed to find plenty of interesting places to explore! First was Evlakia, on the coast below Nikea. The windy road down to it was very steep and went on for ever but beautiful with its views over the Aegean, dry stone terraces and shepherds cottages and wild flowers everywhere. At the bottom we walked down to a black volcanic beach with huge black boulders presumably thrown there in the past by the volcano. There was a small, pretty quay and a few mostly derelict houses and it was a lovely spot to stop and watch the sea in the sunshine. After lunch in Nikea we drove back to Pali and along the coast road as far as we could. The scenery was a lot less rugged here and had sandstone hills sculpted by the wind. We walked a long the volcanic beach before returning to Mandraki where we again wandered the quaint streets before climbing the steps to the monastery perched above the town. It's built amongst a castle dating back to the crusades but we weren't able to get in to it - but it did look a little dodgy even on Greek health and safety standards! A final drive to the end of the only road on the island we hadn't driven and the end of another long day!

At last, we’re off!

11 April 2022 | Lipsoi - 8,776 NM
Lorraine Chapman | Very windy and chilly
And finally we were ready to go! The engine started first turn, we let off the lines and left Samos marina. We've loved our extended stay on Samos but we're not sorry to leave the marina which is very is unprofessionally run. We were joined on our first trip for ages by dolphins just outside Pythagorio. Our first stop was Agathonisi where we've tried to stop a couple of times before but always had a southerly wind from which it has no shelter. This time we were lucky and after a 17mile motor sail with just the foresail out, we anchored just off of the very small town and beach.
It was very barren but pretty and quite sheltered although the light northerly winds that brought us were now accelerating down the hill. After lunch in the cockpit (definitely warm enough!) we paddled ashore in the dinghy to explore. Needless to say it was very closed! We walked around the 'harbour' of Agios Georgios and the up the steep hill to Megachora which was also very small but had fab views over the island. Ian and Jess returned at that point but we couldn't resist a few more views - lovely, plus lots of chickens, goats and very friendly locals. We went back down to the harbour and found Ian and Jess in the only bar that was open before paddling back to Freya and supper on board followed but a very early and peaceful night at anchor.

Next stop beautiful Arkoi. It's so pretty, we love it and we picked up our usual restaurant buoy in the bay next to the small village. The 15 mile journey was very grey as the air was full of Saharan dust and we motored the whole way. After lunch in the restaurant (which they opened just for us) where they made us very welcome and supplied scrummy food we went for a walk to the village and then retraced our steps and went to the lovely beach that always has turquoise sea. The wind began to pick up as expected but we knew Freya was sheltered in the bay. As we headed back we realised the bay wasn't as sheltered as we thought and we could see she was bouncing around. As we passed the restaurant the owner was waiting for us looking very worried and explained we were his first customers this year and he hadn't dived to make sure the buoys were OK! We'd left our dinghy on his jetty which was now under water and he waded out to retrieve it for us in his wellies. Once we were all onboard we tried to paddle back to Freya but realised we were just bouncing around and getting wet but not going anywhere! The restaurant owner was very keen that we should get back to Freya ASAP and suggested he took us in his fishing boat which he duly did and we had a very rough clamber aboard. Once on board he asked if we had a long line which he tied to another buoy and we spent the next couple of hours keeping watch. All was good and after a couple of hours it calmed down and we had a very peaceful night.

The following morning we headed off again. This time 7.5 miles to another favourite, Lipsoi. We managed to sail downwind for half the trip - first proper sail of the year, very exciting! We managed to moor stern to on the quay in 20 knot cross winds with the help of our Turkish neighbours. We were the only 2 boats on the quay until a large ferry came to join us causing a lot of wake. The swell was making its way in making it very sloppy. Manolis turned up after the mooring, a bit late but very pleased to see us!

We stayed on Lipsoi for 4 nights as we knew heavy winds were coming and the harbour is relatively sheltered. We did several walks, saw a seal, had dinner at Manolis' (different one), Helen and Mike on Island Drifter joined us, partially watched the Grand Prix on line and then listened on the radio as the wifi let us down, Ian and Jess went swimming - and generally enjoyed the island. But then the winds arrived from the west (not where we expected them and not the best for the harbour) and the situation wasn't helped by an Italian boat who came in seeking shelter and come very close to our bow knocking our anchor chain (we think!). As the winds picked up we realised that after 2 days rock solid our anchor was slipping. We thought the best solution was to go side-to so that we didn't have to lift the anchor and reset it in the wind. We worked out a plan to turn us using long ropes and we're helped by Helen and Mike making it very smooth and successful leaving our anchor laying across the harbour floor. It was an incredibly bouncy, noisy night however with not a lot of sleep! Now all we had to do is unwind it all and collect our anchor in the morning...............

Very stressful final preparations

07 April 2022 | Samos, 8,735NM
Lorraine Chapman | Warmer, sunny but changeable
The engine was removed very efficiently and with great respect for the boat. It was taken to Zlatco's workshop for further investigation! They returned an hour or so later to clean up - very impressive and the engine bay has never looked so clean and shiny! It was very traumatic watching Freya having open heart surgery though.

A drive along the coast, after lunch in the Marina, to Marathakombas helped lighten the mood although it was very, very cold and very, very closed!

Ian and Jess decided to go island hopping on the ferry for a few days as there clearly wasn't very much happening on Freya. We walked into town with them and waved them off - disappointing that we had no ticka-tape! Exhausted after the excitement of the last few days we had a quiet night on board watching the Grand Prix.

Freya was gradually becoming seaworthy again. Zlatco came by on Tuesday morning to say the engine was as expected, he'd ordered the parts, freed the piston etc and he thought about 10 days until it was finished. We thought this good news!! We found the source of the fresh water leak in the plumbing for the new flexible tank and where the water getting under the engine bay was coming from - probably the gas locker and so now we can fix it.

We had a day out shopping in Karlovassi - well, there aren't many shops but it was a nice day out. We got a parking ticket in Pythagorio parked in exactly the same place as usual with everyone else but on that day they decided to enforce the rules - very annoying. The 25th was Greek Independence Day and a holiday with parades. It was much smaller than other places we've seen it. And the sun has finally come out at last. We've stopped shivering, been out without coats and hats and sat in the cockpit. This is more like it!

Ian and Jess returned after their trip to Leros and we continued with the recommissioning - the anchor was lifted ashore from the bow to the quay to be painted, teak was oiled, the outboard was filled with petrol and a new impeller ordered and the fore sail was hoisted - at least she looks more like a sailing boat. Zlatco came by mid week to confirm his work on the engine was going as planned and we should have it back on Saturday. We went to the Customs Office to get a letter from the marina stamped confirming Freya was in the marina on Brexit day. We know everyone else has had this done and we even showed her a copy of someone else's but she couldn't understand why we needed it and we have to go back next week when her boss is there! Don't you just love Greece! In between we spent a lot of time having coffee.

We decided to go for a walk the day before we returned our hire car. Looking at the walking map we picked one on the north coast which didn't look too onerous - learning from previous experience! We drove cross country for about 10km over very rough tracks fording 2 streams eventually pulling back on to the main road about half a mile from where we started! Paul didn't want anymore 'adventures' and so we stuck to the main road - it was beautiful though! On arriving at the start of the walk we couldn't find it anywhere. We had a pleasant walk around the village which was lovely but nothing was open - the day definitely wasn't going as planned! We decided to drive back around the other side of the island via Platinos - a beautiful village up in the mountains famous for its sweet wine and surrounded by vines. It was beautiful, if a bit chilly so high up and we found a lovely restaurant (Orizontas) on the side of the mountain with views over Karlovassi on the north coast and Marathakampos on the south coast. Lunch was delicious too.

Our hire car was returned to the airport and we had a pleasant walk back to the marina along the beach where the waves were crashing and through Pythagorio where they were crashing over the sea wall and, of course stopping for coffee. More jobs were ticked off the list along with more eating and drinking were done until the engine was due to be coming back on Saturday. By Friday evening we had heard nothing from Zlatco and so eventually gave him a ring - definitely Monday! Alarm bells were beginning to ring!

Ye of little faith - he duly arrived at the allotted time, Freya was swung around to be side-to and the engine was lifted in using the boom (much easier than off the stern) and they spent all day fitting it while we tried not to get in the way - lots of coffee at Marco's (the marina bar). Then the moment arrived - it didn't start! More trying, it clearly had no intention of starting! Ian and Jess went off to Pythagorio for food as there clearly wasn't going to be dinner on board. Zlatco finally had the idea of changing the starter motor to the original Volvo one we still had on board rather than the after market one we were using and after a few tries she burst into life amongst clowns of black smoke and a diesel slick in the water (sorry fishes!). What a relief!! Paul and I returned to Marco's for a late dinner totally exhausted - from stress I think not effort. A final day of shopping, the Port Police who were able to give us all the necessary documents and stamps, collecting a new impeller for the outboard and fitting it (that's working too!) and final cleaning and we were ready to go after farewell drinks at Marco's with Gordon and Louise and Brian and Sara.

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