Freya & Us

Vessel Name: Freya of Wight
Vessel Make/Model: Westerly Oceanranger
Hailing Port: Portishead
07 November 2014 | Cagliari - 3,852 NM
21 October 2014 | Cagliari - 3,852 NM
12 October 2014 | Porto Corallo - 3,800 NM
03 October 2014 | Ottiolu, Sardinia - 3,716 NM
24 September 2014 | Cannigionie, Sardinia - 3,669 NM
22 September 2014 | Cannigionie, Sardinia - 3,652 NM
16 September 2014 | Santa Teresa di Gallura, Sardinia - 3,618 NM
07 September 2014 | Stintino, Sardinia - 3,539 NM
02 September 2014 | Puerto de Fornells, Menorca - 3,284 NM
27 August 2014 | Puerto de Farnells, Menorca - 3,301 NM
17 August 2014 | Sant Jordi, Mallorca - 3,166 NM
15 July 2014 | Pobla de Farnals - 2,977 NM
06 July 2014 | Sant Carles de la Rapita - 2,882 NM
14 June 2014 | Sant Carles de la Rapita - 2,882 NM
10 June 2014 | Sant Carles de la Rapita -2,882 NM
02 June 2014 | Burriana - 2,808 NM
12 May 2014 | Bristol - 2,781 NM
02 May 2014 | Valencia - 2,781 NM
19 April 2014 | Santa Pola - 2,610 NM
11 April 2014 | Cartagena - 2,547 NM
Recent Blog Posts
25 September 2020 | Evdhilos, Ikaria - 8,552 NM

Heading South

Nisos Oinoussa was lovely. On our first evening we strolled along the quay and harbour looking up at the village with pretty houses piled on top of each other going up the steep hill dominated by a huge blue church. The island was inhabited by several Greek shipping magnates and their lovely houses became [...]

13 September 2020 | Oinoussa - 8,491 NM

A very strange year

Well, we didn't think we would be sailing this year - but here we are! The marina were putting us under pressure to move Freya as she was apparently in the way. In the end we gave in and 24th August, with some apprehension we started our journey to Lesvos. We needn't have worried, Heathrow was eerily [...]

03 December 2019 | Bristol - 8,443 NM

2019 by the numbers

Eighth year of cruising completed. This year’s numbers are:

05 November 2019 | Mytilini - 8,443 NM

I don’t want to alarm you but......

We had 10 days in Mytilini before our visitors arrived. We spent the time being very sociable with our fellow yachties. As well as Gordon and Louise on Camira we were joined by Edward on Windhoos from the Netherlands and Uva from Germany. A few bleary mornings were testament to the good nights had by [...]

18 October 2019 | Mytilini, Lesbos - 8,413 NM

Overnight to Molyvos

Our overnight passage was beautiful. We left Samothraki just before 5.00 pm to do 78 miles ensuring we arrived in daylight. The sea was totally flat and we had a gentle breeze allowing the main to give us a bit of assistance. The moon was almost full and already rising as we left and it lit our way until [...]

11 October 2019 | Molyvos, Lesbos - 8,379 NM

Samothraki

It was time to start heading south and back to Lesvos for the winter. We left Porto Lagos having really enjoyed our few days, there even though it felt as we left as soon as we’d arrived. 37 miles away was our next stop, Samothraki. A small island made of a large chunk of marble a long way from anywhere [...]

Heading South

25 September 2020 | Evdhilos, Ikaria - 8,552 NM
Lorraine Chapman | Warm and Still
Nisos Oinoussa was lovely. On our first evening we strolled along the quay and harbour looking up at the village with pretty houses piled on top of each other going up the steep hill dominated by a huge blue church. The island was inhabited by several Greek shipping magnates and their lovely houses became derelict over the years. It has now been reinvented as a holiday resort and many of them have been lovingly restored as Greek holiday homes, but around 700 people still live here all year round. At this time of year many are empty but it's still very pretty and peaceful. White Satin followed us from Lesvos and obviously a G&T was required after we caught their lines.

In the morning we explored the narrow streets and stairs of the village in more detail examining each still derelict house as possible homes - as we do! There were a few potentials with stunning views....... We passed the mini market which was closed (Sunday) but lots of resident cats were very at home clustered around a huge sack of cat food! We followed a sign to an acropolis which a lady assured us was straight down the road but we never found it! We finished with a drink on the harbour where we watched a big American catamaran come in to moor. Later in the afternoon we had an email from Larry who we met on Limnos last year - 'where are you? We think we're moored along the quay'! What a nice surprise. We had lovely dinner with Gundel and Wolf-deiter before catching up with Larry and Carolyn, crew, on Harmonia.

Up to the village again in the morning to get a few essentials in the mini market and visit the cats again. Larry is the only yachty we know who roasts and grinds his coffee beans on board. It would be rude not to join them! Later we did a stunning walk around the west coast of the island, with beautiful views of Chios and Turkey, passing a monastery we'd seen from the sea and back across the top of the island. Beautiful but very hilly we certainly earnt our dinner!

On our final day on Nisos Oinoussa we needed fresh fruit and veg. In the mini market the previous day we'd been told where the 'greengrocers' was but not to go that day as it wouldn't be fresh. And so another climb up the hill to the shop where we found a very dark room with an old man in the corner chain smoking surrounded by boxes of surprisingly good looking fruit and veg even though not a huge selection. Stocked up we stopped for coffee in the bar opposite the boat as we'd been using their WiFi since we arrived. After lunch we thought it time to test drive our new dinghy and repaired outboard by visiting the 3 islands off of the village which created the very sheltered bay. The first has 3 churches and lovely views, the middle one had a sheltered beach for a swim and yet another church. A lovely afternoon and successful test drive. Yet more drinks with White Satin in the evening!

Our first proper sail this year! It was very short, only 5 miles from Nisos Oinoussa to Lagada on Chios but we sailed all the way. We tied up alongside on the quay - the only visiting yacht. Lagada is a very pretty fishing village lined with tavernas - we've been a couple of times before and loved it. After lunch we (I!) enjoyed a swim from the beach and we also enjoyed a lovely dinner in one of the tavernas later. Great day. Early the next morning we were disturbed by a huge wave in the bay reflecting and feeding on itself as it hit the quay. Freya started with a gentle rock which became harder and harder as we tried to get dressed to find out what was happening. We couldn't see any reason for it! I guess the wake of a ship out at sea but Freya had a nasty scratch on her hull just below the toe rail! Lesson learnt, even though it's empty sometimes it's better to go stern too! One side of the bay is covered in pine trees and looked like a perfect place to walk although we didn't know whether it was possible. After our trauma, we set off and found not only was it possible but there was a path running through the woods with occasional benches to sit on and enjoy the view - crystal clear turquoise water through the trees with the fishing village as a backdrop, stunning. The sea seemed to get a bit sloppy in the afternoons and so another visit to the beach later was more comfortable.

A cyclone had appeared on the forecast which was passing just south of us! We needed shelter and the only place to go was Chios 'marina'. It had been built as a marina but never adopted and developed and so had become very rundown and occupied by local fishing boats. There's no water, electricity or toilets but it's sheltered and had to be our next stop. It actually turned out to be a much nicer place than expected not far from town and set away from the busy road. On one walk along this road to check out a rustic taverna in an old fishing harbour, I heard a loud bang followed by a loud "exclamation" from Paul. A car's wing mirror had hit his hand! Luckily there was no visible damage but Paul's hand and arm felt as if they had an electric shock for a hour or so. We didn't feel like braving the road again that night so ate onboard instead.
Apart from concerns over how long we could stay without water and filling the holding tank we were nice and secure in the marina. As we watched the cyclone develop it changed course and headed west and south and so thankfully it passed us by with little more than strong winds - phew! A few days before arriving we'd sent Paul's uncle and aunty, George and Gia, who have a villa on Chios a message and had a lovely surprise when they replied saying the were there - they picked us up the next day and we left Gundel and Wolf-deiter keeping an eye on Freya.

We slipped very comfortably back into their routine - and their lovely home. Beach in the morning for a swim followed by coffee, back for late breakfast, relax by the pool soaking up the amazing views, drinks on the terrace, dinner on the terrace and relax scanning the sky for shooting stars - including a really bright one that went on forever (well nearly)! A lovely, relaxing few days. But they were going back to Wales and we needed to move south and so back to Freya.

There were threats that Greece may go back into lockdown and so we felt we needed to get closer to Samos, our over winter destination, so that we could get there quickly should that happen. We couldn't risk getting stuck on an island with no shelter. We headed for Ikaria, due south 46 miles. We started motoring, then the foresail as well for a while. Then the wind disappeared and the swell grew making it impossible to keep wind in the sail. We furled it and put the main up for stability which was better but it was flogging annoyingly. But about half way there the wind built again, the genoa came out again, the sea flattened and we had an amazing sail (yes, with no engine) for 4 hours with the wind on the beam and going in the right direction! Our destination was Evdhilos on the north coast of Ikaria. It's position with the prevailing northerly winds makes it hard to visit but conditions were just right. First impressions are very pretty.................

A very strange year

13 September 2020 | Oinoussa - 8,491 NM
Lorraine Chapman | Hot and Windy
Well, we didn't think we would be sailing this year - but here we are! The marina were putting us under pressure to move Freya as she was apparently in the way. In the end we gave in and 24th August, with some apprehension we started our journey to Lesvos. We needn't have worried, Heathrow was eerily quiet (it would've been hard not to socially distance!) and our flight to Athens had only 25 passengers and so apart from having to wear a mask all the way was stress free and comfortable. Our 2nd flight to Mytilini early the next morning was only half full and so all good. We had a very nice apartment overlooking the harbour for a few days while we got Freya ready to go back in the water. Very comfortable if a bit noisy and no ladders involved! It felt good to be back in the sunshine. Although Mytilini had had a spike in cases it felt quite comfortable re COVID with everyone behaving responsibly.

Freya was a bit of a shock - we have never seen her so dirty and clearly unhappy - bird poo everywhere! Our first day was spent scrubbing and more scrubbing followed by very nice souvlakia on the harbour. She still wasn't clean but it would have to do until she was launched.

The next couple of days were hard work doing things we normally do in the spring when it's cooler. It was 35+ degrees and very humid and we were melting! Anyway, we plodded on and day one we did anodes, antifouled the prop, cleaned the hull, rust painted the keel and then discovered we had a defective battery which burnt through a cable in the engine bay creating a scary amount of smoke! Day 2 we antifouled - yuck! Had a lovely lunch in the marina bar before I went back to the apartment while Paul waited for the electrician to sort the battery/electrical fault and an engineer to replace another broken sea cock - one was replaced before we returned.

Finally, we were craned back in with thankfully no dramas and we were back on board. The rigger came to fix our furler - I went to the beach as this was definitely no place for a woman! Freya was clearly still sulking as we discovered a problem with yet another sea cock (and the shower pump)! We thought it was blocked at first and I had the lovely job of swimming under the boat in the disgusting marina water to try and clear it - yuck again! It was soon clear the sea cock was broken and we needed a mini lift out and engineer. Only in Greece - we spoke to the engineer who would do it the following afternoon if we arranged the lift. We spoke to the crane driver who would only work in the morning! Stalemate! In the evening we were walking back to the boat when we heard someone running after us - the crane driver - he had another engineer who would do it in the morning. This lift was horrendous! Only 2 men arrived who clearly weren't confident and kept shouting at each other - and Paul. The straps and hook were continually in the wrong place. Freya was lifted up and down several times until everyone was happy. She was held in the sling for half an hour while the sea cock was changed. Nightmare! To top it all off we had an argument over the 'agreed' price!

During all of this the COVID restrictions were increased on Lesvos and it was added to the quarantine destinations in the UK. We now had to wear masks all the time when away from the boat. So uncomfortable in the heat?

One of our jobs was to replace a leaking water tank which we managed reasonably easily. The first challenge is to get the old one out from under the bench where it fits very snuggly and then off the boat where it is an equally snug fit through the companion way and then onto a bouncing pontoon. Then fitting the new tank which is flexible which meant lining the space to ensure there is no danger of puncture and filling the bottom to ensure it sits flat allowing the water to run out. We used a blanket for lining and then scratched our heads until coming up with the brilliant idea of polystyrene balls to fill the bottom - but where to get them on a small island! Out for an evening stroll we passed a shop with a bean bag outside - perfect! Tank fitted and all working!

Next problem was the outboard - we'd left it with an engineer last November and he'd reported it was all fixed but more expensive than he first quoted. When it arrived he'd broken the propeller which 'we' then had to replace! We then attached it to the new dinghy and, of course, it didn't work at all! After a few days the engineer returned and it was explained that we'd left him with a running outboard with a problem and he'd 'fixed it' so that we now had an outboard that didn't work at all and we would not be giving him anymore money! He took it away and brought it back working......

Phew! Including our usual recommissioning that was the end of the work list! In between the work we had a few good evenings involving lots of wine and food with our German friends from last year, Gundel and Wolf-dieter on White Satin.

The marina gave us a very good price to spend another winter in Mytilini and so as we didn't have a lot of time the plan was to circumnavigate Lesvos and return to the marina - but then we saw the news! COVID had reached the refugee camp causing disagreements over isolation resulting in huge fires in the camp. There were road blocks to contain the refugees, riot police and troops were flown in, tear gas was used and there were 13,000 homeless refugees! Nightmare! But there was nothing we could do to help apart from sort out sacks of clothes on the boat which hopefully reached the refugees in need. We were very sorry and guilty to leave the marina and felt we were deserting them but given the refugee situation and rising COVID cases we felt we had no choice.

We had a disappointing motor to an anchorage, Mersina, on the south of Lesvos with notoriously bad holding. We thought our anchor had dug in but as the wind picked up we realised we couldn't stay. Tarti Bay next door looked good and so we moved before dark and anchored behind some rocks where the holding was excellent but in the dark we could hear waves crashing on the rocks nearby which was very disconcerting! First thing in the morning we left Lesvos and had another disappointing motor sail south to Nisos Oinoussa where we moored on the quay. It's beautiful, peaceful, with stunning sunsets and no refugees or COVID! Normal sailing has resumed...........

2019 by the numbers

03 December 2019 | Bristol - 8,443 NM
Lorraine Chapman | Cold and Sunny
Eighth year of cruising completed. This year’s numbers are:

Nautical miles travelled: 880 NM (Total of 8,443 since leaving home)
Number of ports of call: 38
Total time at sea: 6 Days, 11 hours
Longest single passage: 79 NM (14 hours 55 minutes)
Average passage length: 23.2 NM

I don’t want to alarm you but......

05 November 2019 | Mytilini - 8,443 NM
Lorraine Chapman | Windy
We had 10 days in Mytilini before our visitors arrived. We spent the time being very sociable with our fellow yachties. As well as Gordon and Louise on Camira we were joined by Edward on Windhoos from the Netherlands and Uva from Germany. A few bleary mornings were testament to the good nights had by all!

It became apparent that we could not get the new foil for the foresail before going home and so the riggers returned to refit the forestay as we couldn't leave the the rig held up by the spinnaker halyard all winter. We've ordered the parts and will fit them in the spring. We then started working down our winter decommissioning list. All this as the lovely sunshine held and we hoped it would continue for a little longer......

Tasha and Maddy arrived late on Sunday night leaving just enough time for a glass of wine and some supper while they settled in onboard. Monday in Greece was Oki Day - a national holiday celebrating when Greece said no to Italy moving into Greece during WWll. All over the country it's celebrated with parades of school children, clubs and armed forces. We watched it all from Mytilini harbour. We then walked to the other side of town and found the perfect table by the sea for lunch. Unfortunately lunch didn't live up to expectations as we waited forever and even then only half of it arrived before we gave up, paid for what we'd had and left! We walked back around the castle and had ice cream on the harbour.

Tasha and Maddy wanted to go sailing. Unfortunately there was no wind and, of course, we only had one sail but we could still give them a flavour. We left for Scala Loutra in the morning, raised the mainsail and left our visitors to helm along the coast. We dropped the anchor in a lovely, sheltered bay for lunch and a swim. It was a bit chilly so late in the year but we (not Paul!) had a lovely swim and snorkel in the turquoise, crystal clear water. Tasha was first out and while looking down from the deck she uttered the now forever immortal words "I don't want to alarm you but.....
there's something very large with a fin swimming towards you"! Maddy almost levitated back on board leaving me to follow behind. But there really was a shark in the water! It was 2-3 metres long and patrolling the fish farms looking for lunch. Tasha, Paul and I were really excited - Maddy wasn't so impressed! After lunch we went through the beautiful channel further into Kolpas Yaras to Scala Loutra where we moored stern-to on the quay. That night we had a delicious dinner in the taverna.

The next morning we walked around the village and up to the "Mama Mia" style church high on the hill above the bay. Our walk then took us through the lanes and olive groves to the village of Loutra a mile or so inland. On the way back to Mytilini we dropped anchor in "shark bay" (hoping to get some pictures). The shark didn't make an appearance but regardless of this Maddy still didn't seem too keen on swimming.

For the next day our plan was to take a day trip to Turkey which is only a 1.5 hour ferry ride away. As it entailed an early start, Paul walked round to the travel agent to buy the tickets. We had done some checking and were told all we needed were our passports, no visas or the like. But no such luck. It turns out that a minor (under 18) can only travel to Turkey, on this day trip at least, if they are accompanied by both their parents or a solicitors letter giving permission. As we only had one parent and no letter our day trip was off.

The weather let us down the next day. We drove up the east coast of Lesbos stopping at the Roman aqueduct, pretty spots on the coast, the monastery with the fighter plane outside and then up in to the hills along north coast where we had lovely views. Unfortunately it was very chilly and we found a beautiful taverna with spectacular views just as it began to rain - food was delicious though. We headed back to Mytilini and explored the shops in the rain!

Luckily the sun returned the next day as we headed for the fairytale town of Molyvos. On route we stopped at a lovely monastery with lots of cats for Maddy to cuddle, which was a theme of the holiday. In Molyvos we walked up through the narrow streets to the castle before stopping for lunch with a view over the bay and then down to the pretty port. Finally, we stopped at Petra to see the old town and the church on its rock pinnacle in the middle of town.

We tried to watch the rugby world cup final in the marina cafe over breakfast but we were disappointed to discover it wasn't broadcast in Greece! Breakfast was good though. In the afternoon we sat on the beach and had a final swim before Tasha and Maddy headed home early the next morning. A great week, over way too quickly!

We had 2 days to complete our decommissioning and get Freya lifted before flying home for the winter. Unfortunately, the weather forecast was showing heavy winds and the lift was looking very doubtful. The next morning, the wind had picked up and a southerly swell was building. About 9.00 am we found Jorgos in the boatyard and he said we were on for the lift despite the 1-2m swell running across the harbour mouth but luckily it was a bit less by the haul-out quay. We were more than a little apprehensive but we moved the boat around as requested. Our next job was to loosen the backstay holding up the mast so it didn't foul the crane's sling. We have never been lifted by crane before and the 20 - 25kt winds made it even more scary. But after a couple of hours Freya was finally safely ashore in her cradle. From now on when selecting a boatyard for our winter haul out we will look for a travel-lift. They seem to be much safer and faster.

After a night ashore, we caught an early morning flight to Bristol via Athens and will return to Freya in the spring, perhaps a little late than usual as we are spending a month in Antarctica over Christmas this winter.

Overnight to Molyvos

18 October 2019 | Mytilini, Lesbos - 8,413 NM
Lorraine Chapman | Sunny and Still
Our overnight passage was beautiful. We left Samothraki just before 5.00 pm to do 78 miles ensuring we arrived in daylight. The sea was totally flat and we had a gentle breeze allowing the main to give us a bit of assistance. The moon was almost full and already rising as we left and it lit our way until 4.00 in the morning when it was replaced by millions of spectacular stars. Paul spotted a few shooting stars as well and even had a visit from a couple of dolphins in the dark. We arrived in Molyvos on Lesbos at about 7.30 am and found plenty of room on the quay where we managed to moor stern-to with Paul getting a line through a mooring ring from the boat and then climbing up a tyre onto the quay to attach the second line. Tea, showers and breakfast were very welcome and when Louise and Gordon, with Lily (cat) on Camira got up they brought their morning coffee to join us and catch up. We were feeling remarkably awake and so went to explore the lovely old town with its steep, narrow, winding streets full of shops and bars. It wasn't long before we were flagging however and we headed back towards Freya having lunch on the quay for a snooze. The snooze had to wait though as the port police had been and wanted us all to move to the end of the quay as they had a big boat coming in. Two stern-to moorings in one day after very little sleep seemed a bit much but we duly obliged before eventually getting our snooze which was just as well as we were joined by 2 charter yachts with British crews on holiday and the evening turned out to be very sociable! The big boat never materialised!

We went to Molyvos with Dee and Kevin in a hire car in the spring and it absolutely poured with rain to the extent that we couldn't see anything or enjoy it. We simply got back in the car and left! How different it was this time. In the morning we could see the medieval town in all its glory and we headed back into town and right to the top to visit the Byzantine/Ottoman/Genoese castle with its stunning views of the town and bays on both sides. We were just leaving when we found Gordon on a shopping trip and looking for an Ouzery he'd found before. It would've been rude not to join him and so we joined the search and eventually found the bar on a little back street. It was very basic but with lovely views and we had the ouzo mezze without the ouzo which was delicious even though it included snails and was just 3€ each. After a little more exploring we had a snooze before dinner in a lovely taverna in town with Louise and Gordon.

Just along the coast from Molyvos is the old town of Petra which is now surrounded by a modern holiday resort. The easiest way to get there was on the "wally trolley" (tourist train) which was a very bumpy ride along the cobbled streets but we were lucky as it was their last day of the season. We'd also stopped here in the rain earlier in the year and so it was lovely to explore the old town including the church perched on a rocky pinnacle in the middle of town and the Vareltzidaina mansion built in the late 18th century in the Ottoman style with vaulted ceilings and beautiful frescoes. On the return journey we got off at the beach and sat for a while - the temptation was too much for me and I had a lovely swim across the bay and back to Freya. As Paul walked back he was persuaded by a friendly taverna owner on the quay that we would really like to eat at his place that evening - another lovely dinner with Louise and Gordon.

Having really enjoyed Molyvos out of season, it was time to move on and we selected an anchorage 17 miles away on the East coast of Lesvos, Palios. It was beautiful and I enjoyed a lovely swim in the turquoise water where there were few fish but lovely yellow coral growing on the rocks before a spectacular full moon appeared. In the morning we rowed ashore and walked through olive groves around the shore to an area covered in tombs which had been carved out of the rock. Interesting but we couldn't find any information about them. We went to visit Camira on the way back - Paul rowing and me swimming. When we'd arrived in the bay Gordon had been worried about a strange noise coming from the engine. He now knew an engine mount had sheered. Paul went back to Freya to collect bits of wood and between them they propped the engine up. We left for Mytilini going slowly and following Camira in case the problem worsened. After about four hours we were back safe in the marina where Camira needed an engineer and we needed a rigger to sort our genoa.

The rigger duly arrived the next day and the forestay was dismantled. It appears it hadn't been fitted correctly 3 years ago in Italy, with glue and screws missing. We need new parts from Harken which have been ordered but in the meantime our rig is held up by the spinnaker halyard!

Samothraki

11 October 2019 | Molyvos, Lesbos - 8,379 NM
Lorraine Chapman | Warm and Sunny
It was time to start heading south and back to Lesvos for the winter. We left Porto Lagos having really enjoyed our few days, there even though it felt as we left as soon as we’d arrived. 37 miles away was our next stop, Samothraki. A small island made of a large chunk of marble a long way from anywhere else. On our last passage we’d unfurled the Genoa to find a big greasy splodge in the middle surrounding a tear in the sail! Further investigation found the foil (around which the sail furls) had come apart causing the damage. The forecast gave calm winds and relatively flat seas for our journey which worked well as we would only be able to use the main - and the engine. It started well but we soon had a 2 metre swell and over 20 kt winds! It was a really rolly and uncomfortable trip which seemed endless. Although we did have a pod of dolphins come to play in the middle with several babies - always makes you smile! With about 2 hours to go we noticed a loud clonking noise coming from the binnacle where the steering cables are housed which we think was caused by Flossy (autopilot) trying to hold course in the rough sea resulting in some erratic movements on the wheel. We manually steered for the remaining journey and all was fine but we would need to investigate before moving on. We moored side-to, all alone, on the quay in the capital Kamariotissa which, from the boat, looks lovely nestled under the mountain. When Paul did his arrival checks he concluded that we are using lots more diesel than usual - possibly Freya’s dirty bottom and prop or maybe something else to investigate! We think Freya is very unhappy about something........

We toured Samothraki in a battered hire car for 2 days. It’s a very different Greek island. There is only 1 road almost circumnavigating it as the island is mostly a mountain 1,611m high which falls away into the sea. It’s also a very green island - which means a fair amount of rain and lots of streams and waterfalls coming off of the mountain - and across the 1 road. As we drove around there were large sections of the road missing, washed away, with off-road diversions in place. In other places there were small landslides to be avoided, rubble all over the road from gentler hills and fords. We understood why our car was battered and the hire company weren’t interested in it’s bumps! On the first day we went north and started at The Sanctuary of the Great Gods, the ruins of a mystery cult whose initiation rites promised divine protection and the opportunity to become a better person than ever you were before! Just hand over some money and the priests would sort it. The site was fascinating with all the various rooms for different parts of the initiation although a good imagination was necessary. We then headed to the end of the road at the far east of the island where our little map told us there was a beach - lunch we thought. We found a huge rocky beach in a spectacular location but nothing else apart from a few hippies camping - no lunch. Our other discovery was that the island is very sparsely populated as we’d only passed 1 village, Loutra, aka Therma, because of its hot springs. We headed back to find lunch. It was a very pretty village and had the feel of a backpacker destination in South East Asia and it also had a hippy commune adding to a very relaxed atmosphere. Unfortunately it was closed and it took us some time to find a restaurant that was open for lunch but it certainly looked closed with leaves all over the terrace and tatty tables scattered around but we had a very nice lunch on our own. There were signposts around the village for waterfalls and so we went for a very pretty walk but failed miserably! Back in the car we headed back to signs we’d seen earlier but still failed. Back to the village we drove around the very narrow roads again and out of the village until we eventually found, we think, the Ghria Vathra Canyon which was stunningly beautiful like something out of the Lord of the Rings, with huge gnarled and hollow plane trees covered in moss and a stream tumbling over rocks and boulders. We walked up the gorge clambering over rocks to find rock pools - with naked hippies - and waterfalls. Then back again to the village for a dip in the hot springs - more naked hippies - where we arrived just as others were leaving and enjoyed a lovely warm soak while looking over the mountains and sea.

On the 2nd day we started in Chora, the capital of the island with a Byzantine/Genoan castle perched on the top. This was obviously closed, as it was Monday, but we thought we could probably see most of it from outside and could certainly enjoy the views. The village was beautiful spread over the hillside with narrow streets and terracotta roofs. There was very little open apart from a few cafes but we enjoyed exploring before coffee in the cafe that boasted the best views in Chora. Next came the south of the island and again the promise of a beach at the end of the road but this time there were signs for a taverna. The beach was huge, white and sandy - lovely - but the taverna was closed! On the way back we explored a couple of hillside villages in the hope of lunch and eventually found a locals cafe. The lady came out and sat at our table to explain what she had while Paul translated - she gave me a hug when I understood loukanika, Greek sausages! Lunch was fine but the experience was lovely. Our final stop was the huge sand spit sticking out on the west of the island. By then it was very windy but we had a quick walk and found an old radio station which presumably kept the island in touch pre modern communication. The spit was just odd stuck on the end of a mountain sticking out of the sea. We filled up our diesel cans on our way back so that we were ready for the next stage of our journey and returned our car, had a drink by the port and a walk around town before returning to the boat and battened down the hatches as the wind built for the next storm.

The storm grew over night with Paul needing to go out and rescue the Bimini just after midnight luckily before the rain joined in - I slept and didn’t even notice! Later the rain came too and waves started breaking over the wall covering the boat in posidonia grass. By this time it was all very loud and even I was awake! But in the morning it was all still and totally silent with no damage done. Our job for the day was to look at the clonk in the steering. We thought the cables were a little lose and so tightened them and greased everything but all looked fine. After turning the wheel this way and that then doing it much harder we realised the clonk was coming when the wheel reached its limit with a jolt when Flossy was struggling. Hopefully all sorted we went for a walk and a coffee, returned to the boat for lunch and then prepared for our next passage. After much debate we had decided an overnight sail back to Lesbos made most sense.
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