s/v Galena (Westsail 32)

...a middle-aged maid of fading beauty and questionable virtue


Who: Bill Shaw
Port: Key West, FL, USA
30 January 2013
29 January 2013
29 January 2013
01 August 2012
01 July 2012
01 June 2012
05 May 2012
02 December 2011
02 November 2011
31 October 2011
01 June 2011 | Panama
30 May 2011
18 May 2011 | Panama
21 May 2009 | Baltimore, MD
03 May 2009 | Lake Worth, FL
02 April 2009 | George Town, Exumas
25 February 2009 | George Town, Exumas

Return to Savusavu, Fiji

30 January 2013
As I've noted earlier, since Cyclone Evan tore up Musket Cove, the place just isn't much fun anymore. The (new) owners told me that repairs to facilities for yachties are at the bottom of the list. The Island Bar and the main wharf repairs will not even be started until May or June. That, and I'm the only yachtie left on the island. The others have gone elsewhere for the season.

With just a little urging from my friends at Savusavu, and the promise of a safe storm mooring, I've decided that I'll sail back and there spend the remainder of cyclone season. The route along the south coast of Viti Lavu is a bit longer than that around the north coast. And it's generally to windward. But it's open enough to allow sailing at night. And I want to get this passage over with as soon as possible.

I'm up at about 5:30, 8 January 2013, and I cast off from my mooring at about 7AM. I had to wait for enough sunlight to visually avoid the many patches of coral surrounding Musket Cove.

First problem I encounter is that Galena's engine is still starving for fuel... sometimes. As I motorsailed out of Musket Cove on Monday morning the engine sounded fine. For about 5 minutes. Then it started to surge and act like a diesel unable to get enough fuel. I thought I had resolve this. It was running fine yesterday. But today it's still 'broken.'

I thought about turning back and picking up my mooring and working on the engine to find the problem. About then it sorted itself out and began to run smoothly. Screw it, I'm going. I called s/v Stravaig on the phone and told Jose I was on my way.

Musket Cove is lower left, Savusavu is upper right, Track is red line

As soon as I motorsailed out through the opening in the reef I knew this was not really a nice day for a sail. The seas out there were 8-feet and the wind chop was another 3-feet on top of that. The wind and waves and current were from the southeast and of course I'm heading southeast for the first 30-nm of this passage. With wind and waves and current against me I really needed my engine to assist. But it would only run at about 50% power. Tacking back and forth I was only making about 3-kts through the water and only about 1.7-kts VMG.

The reefs around Fiji are nasty. The whole way around Viti Lavu I had reefs to my left. I wanted to stay at least a mile off but the further off-shore I go, the longer the trip.

I had planned on making the turn north at the southeast corner of Viti Lavu by dawn of day 2. In actuality it was the evening of Day 2 when I made that turn to the north and began actually sailing downwind.

Ahh, the evening of day 2. Tuesday. At about 5:30 I was watching the reef go by to my north when I suddenly realized that the water I was sailing through was muddy brown. Strange. I've been in deep blue water most of the past couple of years. Why was this water so brown? Shit, I wonder how deep it is. Now, Galena's depth sounder is very old. It only has a range of about 400 feet. After that it just goes a little nuts and starts throwing up random numbers. So for that reason I usually switch it off whenever I head off-shore. I switched it on and after a bit of start-up time it said, "42 feet." I was shocked! This can't be! The depth here should be over 1000-ft. I saw blue water to my front right. I had to get into deeper water.

I was about to turn toward what I thought would be deep, safe water as the depth sounder continued to read, "47, 53, 74, 68, 55" when my Raymarine Tiller Pilot (my electric autopilot) began making loud, clunking sounds. Within a minute the tiller was slamming stop to stop; the autopilot was suddenly broken. OK, have to replace it with my spare. Now, where is that spare... First, get Galena to deep water.

Just then there was loud noise from just over head. The mainsail boom suddenly swung around and smashed into the stays. I look and see that the boom bail has broken. The mainsheets were dragging in the water and the boom was swinging wildly about. I had to get that under control before it caused more damage. And I had to get to deeper water. As the autopilot was no longer steering Galena she had begun to swing away to the south. Then the 130% genny was backwinded and swung the bow completely around.

By now it's about 5:35. I dropped the mainsail and roped the boom in. I would have to wrap a bit of line around the end of the boom and attach the mainsheet to that. As I pulled the boom in I grabbed hold of the boom gallows at Galena's stern. The wooden piece with the notches for the boom broke off in my hand. Damn near fell overboard! The brackets that held the wooden gallows to the support bow had broken off. I threw the wood piece to the deck and finally wrestled the boom in and tied it off. Then I dropped the backwinded headsail to slow down Galena's motion toward the reef.

That's when Galena's engine decided to simply quit. So there I was, this is no shit, Wind and current pushing me toward a very nearby reef, no mainsail, no power, shallow water. I had had a bad few minutes.

So I got a bit of rope around the end of the boom and re-attached the mainsheet. Then I raised the mainsail. That gave me some motion and that gave me steerage. I turned Galena's bow south and headed toward deeper water and away from the reef. Then I raised the headsail and that gave me some speed (3 kts). I managed to get the engine limping again and that brought my speed up to 4-kts.

I'm looking at my chartplotter and seeing very little detail for this area. Should have been more info but wasn't. Just low-res charts. Then I remembered that I had not planned on heading back this way. I had removed all the charts of areas east of Musket Cove and installed the charts for areas to the west. I had just base-line charts for this area. Great!

Then I look closely at the depth sounder. Remember I said that after about 400 ft it just put up random numbers? It was actually saying four-point-two feet, five-point-eight feet. I was in deep water. I just had a demented depth sounder. And I was too groggy from lack of sleep to have understood what I was seeing.

It's getting dark as I make the turn to the north. With the reefs so close at hand I had not been able to sleep in the past 36 hrs. I was tired. I still had reefs to my left as I headed north toward Ovalau. I also had some shipping traffic to deal with. So again, I couldn't sleep this night, either.

By dawn I had passed through the cut in the reef at Makongai. I had 5-hrs of open water ahead of me. I went below, curled up on the port settee, and slept off and on for most of that five hours.

The passage around Namena reef was uneventful. Thankfully. I was approaching Savusavu and the wind was dieing away to nothing. I tried to start the engine. It didn't want to run. Finally it caught and chugged to life. Then it suddenly surged to full power and ran perfectly!

After about an hour of motorsailing I thought maybe I should save this 'good-running engine time' for my entrance into Savusavu. So I shut down the motor.

I came around the corner and into Savusavu harbor and called s/v Stravaig. The mooring field they were in is way back into the harbor. There's reefs back there that I was not familiar with. They were going to come out and guide me through them.

I'm having a fine sail into the harbor. No waves, nice breeze from a fair direction. Galena was prancing along at 6.5 kts. After an hour of this I start the engine and it sputters and dies. I try again. It comes to a stumbling life. I call Stravaig and say I may need a tow in. He and several others respond saying they were standing by with their dinghies. Nice to have friends.

As I approach the main mooring field at the Copra Shed marina the engine comes back to full power and I have no problem maneuvering through the boats and following Jeff to my new mooring. It's a convoluted route but it's sort of marked and if you stay off the coral heads the water is about 30-feet deep all the way in.

Galena's track for the final mile into the harbor at Savusavu, Fiji

I get tied off to the mooring and Jeff and Jose come over and give me a ride back to Stravaig. We have a beer and I tell them the story of my passage from Musket Cove. We play a little 'whatever-happened-to?" and decide to go into the yacht club for a beer.

It was very nice to see the old gang again. Pete, Bernard, Sheron, Leon, et al. But after only a couple of beers I needed to go home and get some rest.

Now it's 5AM and I'm ready to start cleaning up the mess inside Galena. The ride was so rough at the start that there's stuff thrown everywhere. You can hardly walk around inside. After that I have a lot of work to do on her systems; Starting with that engine.

Musket Cove, Fiji

29 January 2013
Done now with Suva, I headed out for another overnight sail. This time it was a bit further. Actually a day-nigh-day sail. And there was absolutely no wind. And none was forecast for the next few days. I ended up motorsailing most of the way with only a couple hours of actually sailing.

Departing Suva I had to contend with a fleet of Chinese longliner fishing boats that also decided this was a great time to exit the harbor.

Chinese Longliner departing Suva

The passage along the south coast of Viti Lavu, Fiji's main island, was uneventful. No wind most of the way. But that also meant calm seas, which is always good.

Galena's track from Suva to Musket Cove, Fiji

I was a bit apprehentious about the entrance to Musket cove. The area if full of reefs. The reefs are easy enough to see in good lighting so I had to time my arrival to have the sun over my shoulder. Between the reefs the water was deep; over 200 feet in most places.

From Google Earth, the reefs around Musket Cove

My Garmin chart plotter had been pretty accurate so I was trusting it to get me close and then trusting my eyes to make the final adjustments to my course.

From the Yachtsman's Guide to Fiji, the reefs around Musket Cove

However, about one mile out just as I was motoring between two reefs, the engine sputtered. It had been running perfectly for about two years and now, when I could least afford it to have a problem it decided to act up.

I ran down into the cabin and opened the engine compartment. I switched the fuel supply valve from the port tank to the starboard tank. That should fix it. But it didn't. The engine was still running, but sputtering and surging as if starved for fuel. I looked at the reefs close by. I looked at the depth sounder. It read 180 feet. Too deep to anchor. But maybe I should prep the anchor for a quick release. Maybe I should raise a sail to at least give me some semblance of control if the engine dies.

I went forward and prep'd the anchor for a quick drop. I pulled the sail ties off the staysail and released the hold-down at the stay.

The engine continued to sputter. Wait... It sounded a little better for a second. Then better still. Finally, slowly, it smoothed out. I was back to speed and heading in to the harbor.

Passing the last reef mark before turning in toward the yachts moored in front of the Musket Cove Resort I called on the VHF and asked for mooring instructions. "Just pick up any mooring you like and come in and see us when you get settled." I found one that wasn't too close to the other boats. Which meant it wasn't too close to the resort, also. I had no problem picking up the mooring. There was no painter just a heavy loop and about three feet of line above the mooring ball.

Once I was secured my friends Ernie and Charlene (s/v Lauren Grace) came by to say, "hi." After a brief chat they gave me a ride in to shore and Ernie took me around to introduce me to everyone and show me what was where. Having been up all night I barely remembered what he was saying. So I soon went back to Galena to put her to bed and then do the same with myself. After a nap I launched my dinghy and found my way to the little island bar at the entrance to the marina.

The "Island Bar" with Galena at her mooring to the far right

There I immediately felt I had found a home.

The "Island Bar" with Vasiti and Lavinia. At one time this was called the $2-Bar (Just about everything cost $2). By the time I got here it was called the $5-Bar. When I left it was up to $5.50-Bar

Some of my good friends, Chris and Paul, at my favorite place.

Me doing what I do best: harassing the tourists

Ernie had shown me where they park yachts for cyclone season. It looked very safe to me; sort of a mote around an artificial island surrounded by hills and trees. And the cost was very reasonable. I made the decision to stay for the cyclone season. This place had everything: bars, restaurants, pools, hiking trails, small store, laundry. And the ferry to the main island ran four times a day. On the main island one can get just about anything; within reason and for a price.

I decided to stay here for the cyclone season.

One of the comfortable places to hang out at Musket Cove is the Trader. It's the small cafe and general store. A large porch surrounds the building with nice views and constant breezes.

Charlene, her friend, Linda, and Ernie (s/v Lauren Grace) on the porch at the Trader

Musket Cove is very nice for a Pacific Island resort. Musket Cove is one of three resorts in the cove. Further along the beach to the south is the Plantation Resort (more family-oriented) and then there's Lomani (strictly adults only). But Musket offers a nice level of pampering and class.

There are two ferries that make 4-times a day runs to the mainland (near Denarau, Fiji). While I was there they hauled Cat II out for maintenance.

The main ferry that runs between Musket Cove and the mainland of Fiji

They are building a new one near the airfield and expect it to be ready for next tourist season.

The newest of the Malolo Cat ferries being built near Malolo Lailai Airfield

While the modern Malolo Cat ferries are fast and comfortable they haul only passengers. The small island trader m/v Bili Bili is the workhorse of these islands. This little ferry is almost constantly making cargo runs between the islands and the mainland.

The hardest working boat in Fiji: m/v Bili Bili

Patrick, the man who runs the marina assigned me to a spot that I would move to in case of a cyclone. We walked around to the hurricane hole and he pointed out where Galena would set and where I would tie lines to the shore. Everything was arranged. I would stay out on the mooring until a storm threatened. At that time I would move into the lagoon and tie up to the central mooring and to the shore. It was a nice arrangement. And interestingly they don't charge for that reservation for the storm mooring until/unless I actually go in and use it. I'm not complaining.

From the ridge line looking down on Armstrong island and the cyclone hole

Then, a week later, a huge power catamaran came in to the resort (m/y Safari Swell) and John, the owner, wanted to leave it here for the cyclone season. Under their agreement with me the marina would be able to charge me a pittance for just the few days Galena might be in the cyclone hole. But if they put that big cat back there they would make a bundle each day for months. So I was out. I was told, "So sorry. we seem to have 'overbooked.' I told Patrick, well and good but we had an agreement. He said he would find a place for me. He did. Not as good and maybe not as safe. But not bad, either.

Musket Cove. Z-Galena's mooring, B-Island Bar, X-Galena's Cyclone Spot, Y-Galena's promised spot

Practic Run into the Cyclone Hole

On the 18th of November 2012 we received word of a possible cyclone heading our way. Forecasts were calling for winds over 40 kts. I told Patrick I wanted to come in and asked where my new position was. He said he'd put me up against the walkway bridge leading to Armstrong Island. This was the place normally reserved for the BiliBili barge. But he was not coming in for this storm and I was welcome to tie up there.

First we moved s/v Lauren Grance into position. Ernie had done this before so I just assisted by handling lines for him.

Then we moved Galena into position.

Galena moving through the small draw bridge and to her cyclone spot against the Armstrong Island Bridge

Once I had her in position Ernie helped tie her up to the bridge and I put out an anchor off the port beam.

Galena secured to the Armstrong Island Bridge

The only problem with this arrangement was that the bridge is static and the tidal range is about six feet. Soon I was unable to climb up from Galena's deck to the bridge. I had to use the dinghy to go over to the nearby floating dock. Also, at low tide Galena was firmly aground. She was sitting in soft mud so I had no worries about damage. But it made living aboard a bit strange as she sat bow-down and listing to starboard.

Galena about a foot out of the water at low tide

As it turned out the storm was nothing of note. Winds were a little brisk but not too bad. Still I was happy to be where I was rather than out on the mooring. At least here I was able to get to the bar without using my dinghy.

Within a couple of days I was back out on the mooring and everything had returned to normal. All in all it was just a nice practice run. Although now Patrick says my official spot will be just outside the drawbridge at the Malolo Cat dock. Good enough I guess.

Erie was sailing over to Denarau (on the mainland) and asked if I wanted to come along. Sure, why not? I was going over to buy some heavy line to use during the cyclones and he would be able to bring it back with ease.

Charlene and Ernie onboard s/v Lauren Grace

We had a very quiet motorsail over. This marked the first time I was ever on a catamaran while underway. Very different motion compared to a monohull. And Ernie, having been here many times was eager to show me all the features of the route between Musket Cove and Denarau. When we got to the mainland Ernie guided me to all the boat chandleries and hardware stores in Denarau and Nadi. Finally we took a taxi out to Manaka near the Nadi Airport. We finally found a store with the 20-mm yellow polypropylene 3-strand rope I wanted. But the store wanted F$6.80 (about US$4.20) and I needed 100 meters. With a lot of haggling my taxi driver got him down to F$6/m. Still a lot. Then I saw some of the same rope in white rather than yellow on another spool nearby. The spool said it, too, was 20-mm. The only difference was that it was white. My taxi driver picked up both to compare them and in so doing twisted the yellow against the lay (it expanded in diameter) and twisted the white with the lay (it tightened up). The result was that the yellow looked a lot larger than the white. He showed them to the store keeper and asked how much this 'thinner' rope was? The guy said, "Oh, that's a lot smaller and is only F$4/m" "I'll take it," said I.

I hung out at the main tourist center at Denarau and partied a bit during the following weekend. They have the standard attractions such as a Hard Rock Cafe.

The ubiquitous Hard Rock Cafe, Denarau, Fiji

And along the harbor is the boardwalk with all the tourist traps one might want. Everything from bars to pizza shops to fried chicken fast food to cafe's with nightly fire-dancers.

The main boardwalk looking out at the tourist ships that take people to the outer islands

The mooring field at Denarau only has about 12 moorings. And they are not rated for cyclones. But nearby (about 1km) are two creeks that carry 7-ft at the entrances and go back several kilometers into the mangroves. During a recent cyclone there were 40+ boats back there and not one sustained any damage.

Mooring field at Denarau. Lauren Grace is the cat right of center.

Back at Musket Cove I'd go for walks along the beach. Well, that's not entirely accurate. I'd walk to the various resorts' bars on the beach. While walking near The Plantation Resort I happen upon Tom Hanks' raft from the movie, "Castaway." The island scenes were actually filmed on Monuriki Island, about 12 miles NW of here.

Look closely and you can see that the raft is completely stainless steel and fiberglass. In fact, everything that looks like wood is actually fiberglass.

Me playing Tom Hanks. In front of me is what's left of Wilson.

Another bar on the beach, between Musket and Plantation is Ananda's. It's just past the airfield and has some of the best food on the island. The beers are also a little cheaper than the big resorts. Ananda's was the first bar up and running after Cyclone Evan. With the demise of the Island Bar it became my favorite bar. But it was a far cry from the Island Bar. And a far walk from the dock.


Walking along the beach between Musket and Ananda's you crossed the end of the airstrip. The end of the strip ran right into the ocean. The sign wasn't kidding. Sometimes I'd be about to walk into the path of a landing plane. They were still a hundred feet high, but it's scary none the less.

Crossing the end of the airstrip on the beach road

And on some mornings, waking up and looking across the mooring field I'd be presented with the most wonderful sights.

Rainbow over the mooring field at Musket Cove from the deck of Galena

One thing I've not really gotten use to here in 'The Islands' is the absence of OSHA. Here we have the problem of trimming trees that are well out of reach from even the highest forklifts on the island. What do they do? The build a scaffold and lift THAT with the forklift. Works fine. But it's a little shaky.

Tree trimming from a scaffold on a forklift

Cyclone Evan - Monday, 17 December 2012

On 5 December I started seeing signs of a storm developing over the Solomons, several hundred miles west of here. The usual path for these storms is right down the island chain and then between Vanuatu and Fiji. Then they turn east and blow themselves out well south of Fiji.

This storm showed a different path. It was going to head directly west toward Samoa passing north of Fiji. Strange but it would still have little effect on us.

By 7 December the projected track showed a disturbing twist: The storm would hit Samoa and then stop, turn southwest and move directly toward Fiji. This was not good. Everyone started checking all the available web sites and weather sources. The projections said it would hit us on or about 16 December.

As we watched the various forecasts I noticed that the US Navy site (The Fleet Numerical Meteorology and Oceanography Center (FNMOC)) was the one the other sites followed. During the next few days the forecast changed constantly from
- it's going to pass just west of us
- it's going to pass right over us
- it's going to pass just east of us
The forecasts wind speed and directions from WindGuru looked like this:

The sequence, top to bottom, of the forecasts we received

My assigned spot was where the ferry docks. They were going to run that ferry until the last possible minute. I didn't want to be out on the mooring when the winds started building. So I moved Galena into the main dock. There was no one there and the dock master didn't mind. That also got me very close to the island bar. Cool.

Galena tied up alongside the main dock. The island bar is just off to the right of this picture

Patrick, the dock master, was on vacation. He was supposed to come back and manage the movement/placement of all the boats in the area. The other resorts send their support boats (dive boats, excursion boats, party boats, et al.) to Musket Cove for shelter and once they start to show up it's a serious Charlie-Foxtrot. Well, Patrick decided not to come back. I understand he had his own home and family to worry about. But he also had responsibilities here.

Anyway, one of the expats, Dave, who runs Musket Cove's excursion boats took charge. He began directing who goes where. When I said I was worried about getting back to my spot if I waited too long, Dave understood. He directed me to a position just a few hundred feet down the dock from my assigned spot. As the ferry made it's last run evacuating the last of the tourists I moved into position and started securing Galena. I hauled my metal dinghy up on shore and put it behind a hedge and tied it to a tree.

Just about ready

The forecast at that time called for winds out of the NNW. I was pointed N with the floating dock on my starboard side. I strung most of my lines from Galena's bow to the trees on shore and the dock pilings. At the stern I just put a couple of lines to the dock and a tree on shore. The Malolo Cat I was going to stay on the dock directly in front of me and that would block some of the force of the wind from that direction. Also, at low tide Galena's deck was below ground level. That would help too.

The forecasts kept getting worse. This was now a Cat 3 and coming right for us. But the day before the storm we had a lovely sunset as we partied at the Island Bar. Little did we know that it would be the last party at that bar.

The day before Cyclone Evan. Sunset at the Island Bar

By mid-afternoon on the 17th of December the winds were picking up. The radar forecasts were looking bad.

Cyclone Evan with Musket Cove circled

The last forecast indicated a direct hit of the eye over Musket Cove. Winds in they eye-wall were 120-kts. Rain heavy.

The barometer was dropping fast. Everyone was doing last minute checks of lines and fenders. I walked over to the cyclone hole behind Armstrong Island. Everything looked good on the couple of boats I was 'watching' for friends.

Gradually the winds climbed as the barometer fell. But the winds were from the SE. Throughout the afternoon they continued to build and slowly clock to the East. That put the winds on Galena's starboard quarter. The one place where I didn't have as many lines as I might have had. Galena rocked hard over with every gust. Remember I was below ground level. The wind hitting the rigging was rocking her 20-degrees!

I started to see leaves, coconuts, palm fronds and then whole trees blow by. The water was whipped to a mist in the little lake that made up the inner harbor (it was only 250 meters across and it was rough as a small lake).

The big ferry also on the dock just in front of me started to pull the dock away from it's mooring poles. I saw the crew out on the dock and on the land frantically passing more lines around trees and using 'come-alongs' to pull the bug boat back against the dock. I was concerned since I, too, was tide to that dock. If the dock let go, I knew my few lines to the trees wouldn't hold Galena, the dock, and the big ferry. We'd all be swept out of the harbor and out to sea. I went out to help them. We were wearing dive masks so we could see. We got a couple more lines to the trees and managed to coax the ferry back into position.

About then one of the few lines from Galena's stern to the dock exploded. It was about 16-mm 3-strand nylon. But it was a bit old and it was way too short (no room to stretch). I wasn't too surprised by it's failure. What surprised me was the way the other lines (much longer as they went up to the trees on shore) stretched and let Galena swing about eight feet from the dock. Too far for me to jump off and run another line. I was seriously considering abandoning ship when the crew from the ferry ran up and tossed me a line. I secured it to Galena's stern cleat and they pulled us back to the dock. I was so thankful they were there to help.

Finally just before dark the wind suddenly let up. The eye of the cyclone was on us. The sky was bright white. The air was almost completely still. The barometer read 945mb. I've never seen it anywhere near that low before.

I went for a walk to check on things. The devastation was pretty amazing. I met John, the guy who runs the dive operation for Musket. He was checking his shop and surrounding buildings.

John checking his dive shop during the passage of the eye of cyclone Evan

The rain started and as I hurried back to Galena the wind started to pick up. Within just a couple of minutes it was blowing hard again. Now from the NNW.

Looking across to the Trader from Galena. This is the little harbor that's only a couple hundred yards across

With the wind on Galena's port bow she was being pushed against the dock. Now Galena was pulling on the bulk of her lines which went from bow to shore. She was also somewhat shielded by the big ferry in front of her. She was also not healing over nearly as far. I knew her hull paint wouldn't look good in the morning, but, she needed a repaint anyway.

I curled up on the port settee and fell asleep. I awoke many times and there was no change. Winds howling from the NW and Galena rocking against the fenders on the dock. Back to sleep.

At dawn I got up and surveyed the damages. Galena was in good shape. One solar panel had a broken hinge. The plywood steering vane had snapped off (I was unable to loosen the bolt that held it so left it) and one of her lines had snapped. I walked around and took a few pictures of the damage:

Galena after the storm

Looking across to Galena and the ferry

Banana trees stripped to almost nothing

Many trees were toppled over

The fuel dock was pretty much destroyed.

After a bit of cleaning up those of us who had been on site for the storm got together in a small hut near Galena and had a drink. This is the picture from that survivor party.

This is the Cyclone Evan Survivor's Club, Musket Cove, Fiji

The main wharf leading out the Island Bar was damaged. The power lines to the island were cut. So there would be no island bar drinks for a while. And I had to move right away since the Ferry had to start service. So I went back out to my mooring.

I talked with the owner of the resort, Will Smith, and asked when the docks and Island Bar would be repaired. He said Yachtie support was at the very bottom of his list. Maybe he'd get around to that stuff in May or June. This made me feel very unwelcome. I was no longer happy in this little corner of paradise.

I called my old friends Jeff and Jose on s/v Stravaig. They had recently arrived in Savusavu, Fiji. I expressed my displeasure with Musket Cove. They suggested that if I came back to Musket Cove the owner of the marina would put in a new cyclone mooring for me. I decided that I would head back to Savusavu as soon as I had a reasonable weather window.

Savusavu, Fiji Part 2

29 January 2013
As well as seeing Vavua Levu (the island on which Savusavu sets) by motor scooter I took a mini-bus to Labasa (pronounced 'Lambasa') with cruising buddies. Rob and Pauline (s/v Changing Spots) set it up.
We met at the yacht club in the morning and were on the road by 9AM. I was the last in the bus because I had to run down to the ATM to get some cash. I had been out the night before and spent all I had on hand. Since I was so very hung over I tried to sleep through a great deal of the trip to Labasa.
The rest of the gang, seeing how terrible I looked gave me the front seat of the van so I could be more comfortable. I think they just wanted to be sure I didn't throw-up on them. Of course the driver wouldn't let me sleep. He keep up a running commentary about what we were seeing (except I wasn't seeing it since my eyes were closed behind my sunglasses).
I have to admit I was impressed by the rugged beauty of the island. This is the smaller of the two main islands of Fiji. But it's still huge compared to most of the islands I've been on during this trip across the Pacific. The mountains are actually mountains. And since they are fairly young, in geological terms, they are very sharp and rugged-looking.

Stopping at a scenic overlook on the road between Savusavu and Labasa

The scenic outlooks were pretty spectacular. As with waves on the ocean photographs fail to capture the beauty of the sights. But I still took a few shots to try to convey a bit of the feel of Fiji.

View from the road to Labasa.

I woke up often enough to take a few shots from the road:

View from the road to Labasa. In forgound is a sugarcane farm.

We were traveling at the height of the sugarcane harvest. That meant the roads were clogged with trucks hauling cane to the crushers in Labasa.

Trucks moved slowly from the sugarcane farms to the factories in Labasa

Along the way Rob was playing with some new navigation apps on his iPad. Seems he almost always had that thing in his hand.

Me sleeping and Rob playing with his ipad

Of course, I was playing with my new camera. It has both a compass and a GPS built in. Whenever I took a picture it recorded information such as: You were "here" and were looking in "that direction" and it was "this time." Pretty cool toy, really.
Once in town, we told the driver that we'd call him when we wanted to return. We set off to explore the town. Now, trying to get seven people to move down a busy sidewalk is tough. Someone always wants to stop and look at something. Or to go into a store. Or to take a picture.

The main street of Labasa

Eventually we spit up and agreed to meet at a bar down the street later in the afternoon. It didn't take me very long to 'see the town.' After all, it's just a very crowded town with lots of people going no where in particular (except of course in the oposite direction as I).
I was soon at the bar having a beer waiting for everyone else. We had picked a strange bar. It closed at 3PM and then opened again at 6PM. Not sure why. So we called the driver and headed back just after three.
I got back to Galena early enough to stop at the yacht club and have a few beers. Galena was patiently waiting for me when I finally returned.

Galena at her mooring in Savusavu harbor

On the shore, just west of Galena's mooring was the burned out hulk of a steel sailboat. Leon gave me his take on what happened. He was here and helped tow the still burning hull to the shore where it lies still.

Burned-out hull marking the tragic end of a dream in paradise.

The story according to Leon (I don't know how close this is to factual.):
Ten years ago a couple came to Savusavu. They started a T-Shirt printing business. As the years went by bad things started happening. Even though the shop was going well, they got into trouble. There were people/investors who claimed they were mistreated. There were government issues as well.
By last year their boat had been impounded by the Fiji government, their business had failed, they were massively in debt, and the government had told them they had to leave (without their still-impounded boat).
About 9 months ago the wife went to the bank and after making a few transactions said, "You won't be seeing me here anymore." The husband went to one of the shops and after making a few purchases said the same thing. The next day he shot and killed his wife and lit the boat on fire. It seems that the flames got out of hand too quickly and he was seen jumping burning into the water. He was taken ashore by other yachties while the boat burned. It burned for several hours. The husband died in the hospital a couple of days later.
Leon towed the boat to shore before it sank. Inside they found the wife, the gun, and lots of solvents from the T-shirt printing shop. A murder-suicide that went awry; but succeeded in the end.

October 2, 2012
It was now time to start thinking about getting out of town for good. Galena had been sitting still for a long time. So long that her bottom was quite foul with growth. I had to get down there and do some scraping and scrubbing. Especially her prop. There was so much crud on the prop that I don't thing she would have been able to move if I asked her to.
But a half hour's work and the prop looked pretty good. Then another hour or so and I had her bottom at least clean enough to sail with some semblence of speed. Well, in the loose context of 'speed' that goes with 'Westsail.'

Before and after pictures of Galena's propeller

October 9, 2012
Finally I had run out of excuses for staying put. I picked up my cruising permit (I needed a permit to leave the harbor and sail to other Fijian ports) and paid my final bill at the yacht club. I sailed about 3-nm down the harbor to anchor just off the world famouse Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort.

My view of the Cousteau Resort

Friends had perviously stopped there and were surprised by the lack of welcome the resort gives yachies. In fact the resort has a printed sheet of rules that they will had you when you try to land your dinghy. Basically they just don't want us there. Rule one is 'If you want to land your dinghy, we recommend you go down the coast and use the yacht club dock." Of course that's three miles away! Also, we are not allowed in the main dining area, the pool area, or the main lounge. since none of their facilities, except the main desk, is equipted to handle cash, you have to open an accound, secured by your credit card, if you want to have a drink at the one bar we're allowed to visit.
With all that in ploace, I gave it a pass. I stayed on Galena. And when James and Kim showed up on s/v Doin' It I went there for a very lovely evening of drinks and comradery. It was made especially enjoyable since they had their friend, Monet with them. Not only is Monet an extraodinarily pretty woman (alway nice to spend time in the company of beautiful ladies), she's also quick, smart, and interesting. She even had the grace to laugh at my silly jokes and stories. Yep, a very nice evening, indeed.
We were joined by s/v Madrona. The three of us were heading out of Savusavu and in generally the same direction. Doin' It was going to Ovalau and there would sign out of Fiji entirely and head over to Vanuatu. Madrona wanted to get to Ovalau and then to Vanuatu. I was heading to Ovalau, Suva, and Musket Cove before heading to Vanuatu.
The next day, October 10, Doin It and Galena headed toward Namena Island. It's a small island inside a big reef. Eveyone said it's some of the best diving in Fiji and I just HAD to stop there.

Galena's track from Savusavu to Namena (red), to Makongai (green), and Ovalau (blue)

Coming into Namen I found the opening in the reef right where the chartplotter said it would be. The wind was up a bit and I sailed through the cut at a very good clip with reefed main and full headsail.
Of course, with s/v Doin' It directly in front of me, as I dropped sails things went badly. The headsail just wouldn't come down. and when I finally wrestled it down it went into the water ahead of Galena. By the time I got it on deck and secured Galena had come to a stop and was waiting patiently for me to get my act togeter. James on Doin' It said he had never seen hanked on headsails come down quite like that before. No kidding!

Galena's track into Namena

Once inside the reef and approaching the anchorage under power I was called by Rob on Changing Spots. He had arrived a day or so ahead of me. He said the anchorage was very deep and he had the only mooring available. Thanks, Rob. I let Doin' It get anchored and settled before I went it looking for a spot up close to the island.
The anchorage was, indeed, very deep. I found a spot that was 70-ft deep and the was the shallowest spot I could find. In the end I had all 200-ft of chain out plus about 100-ft of rope. I wound up a bit too close to Doin' It but James didn' mind too much.
I put on my snorkeling gear and went for a swim to see what all the fuss was about. Sure enough, there was some pretty spectaular reefs and fish. After an hour or so I called it a day. The open nature of the anchorage made for quite a rough night. And being so close to s/v Doin' It didn't help me sleep at all. I kept waking up and checking to see if I was coming any closer.
Morning found me ready to move on. The next stop would be Makongai.

Galena's track into Makongai

This was another "must see" spot. In this case the attraction was the giant clams that the islanders were farming. The fijians appearantly love their gian clams. So much so that they have pretty much killed them all off. So the islanders of Makongai have put together a farming opeation to repopulate the reefs with these beautiful, and tasty, clams.

Makongai Anchorage

The anchorage in front of the village was almost perfectly flat. Even in the significant trades that were blowing when I arrived. I was also happy to find the bottom was sand and came up nicely to allow me to anchor in about 25-feet.

Galena in the Makongai Anchorage

After arriving I found that the reef is mostly submerged to a depth of about 25 feet and that I could have come pretty much directly in from the sea. I didn't really have to use the 'pass' as charted. Better safe than sorry, though.
I was joined by s/v Doin' It and Changing Spots. Once we were all there, we went in to meet the village cheif and present the traditional gift of Kava.
We were ushered to the meeting house for the ceremony. The first thing I noticed was that there were about ten million mosquitoes competing to drain me of all my blood.

Makongai village meeting house

Outside we were asked to fill out a visitor's form and book. Inside the chief greeted us and accepted our 'gift' of Kava roots. He said a long prayer (in Fijian) and essentially make us a part of the village. He thanked us for honoring their traditions.

Makongai cheif accepting the Kava roots

Once the ceremony was finished the chief took us on a guided tour of the settlement. This village was once a lepper colony. There were thousands of patients in the hospital back in the '50's. Now the only things left are the shells of the hospital buildings.

Makongai lepper hospital

The villagers still use the church and many of the building have been rebuilt several times.

Makongai village church

The most goulish reminder of the history of this island is found way out in the jungle: the old cemetary.

The lepper cemetary

We also toured the tanks where the giant clams are grown. Here our little group of yachties visit the tanks while the chief tells us the history of the tanks, the reasons for wanting to replenish the clam population and some of the mechanics of growing giant clams.

Touring the tanks used for growing the gian clams

Along with the clams, as sort of a side venture, they also hatch and grow turtles. Monet (s/v Doin' It) was especially enamoured with the baby turtles

Monet and tuttles

The clams in the tanks ranged in size from microscopic to about a meter across. They were truely impressive. I'd never seen clams like this before. They have a soft lip that covers the outer edge of the clam shell. Inside they have a large blow hole through wich they 'exhale' and a slit mouth through which they 'inhale.'

Green giant clam

They also come in many colors.

Red clam

With the soft edge you really can't get hurt. But I'm still thinking you might get a hand stuck if you're not careful.

Kim touched this one and it snapped shut.

Eventually it was time to head back to the boats. Rob had given the crew of Doin' It a ride and they had the usual Cf getting everyone into the dinghy. As I cruised by and took this picture Monet was the only one to realize that this had the potential to be a good picture.

James, Rob, Kim, Pauline, and Monet loading themselves into the dinghy

That evening we all gathered aboard Changing Spots for a bit of rum.

Doin' It crew: Monet, James, and Kim, aboard Spots

I spent a few days swiming and relaxing in the Makongai harbor. The snorkeling was excellant. And the harbor was, understandably, full of giant clams. I mean full-grown ones that were well over a meter across. Very cool.
Finally it was time for me to head out to Ovalau. Changing Spots had departed and was heading directly to Suva; something about mail waiting for them. Ovalau was a short sail away and would allow me to make the run to Suva as an overnight sail later on.
I'll say right off that Ovalau was a disappointment. the anchorage is just an open roadstead. Sure there's a reef out in front. But it disappears at high tide. Half of each day you'll find yourself bouncing around wondering if your anchor will pop loose.

Chart showing Galena's track into Ovalau anchorage

And from the Yachtsman's Guide to Fiji, this arial photo of the Ovalau 'harbor.'

Arial view of the Ovalau anchorage

Every time I went ashore I worried about Galena's safety. It made for a very dissatisfying visit. Historically, this was the original capital of Fiji. It was the main port and one can still clear in and out with the customs officer here.

s/v Madrona, Doin' It, and Galena in the open anchorage that fronts Ovalau

I will say, though, that the main street of the town is picturesque. Except for worrying about Galena, I enjoyed the place. I would have stayed longer but for the crappy anchorage. Also, I had to pay a minor harbor fee of US$ 2.50. Just an anoyance.

The main drag on Ovalau

Of course, the first thing we did was find a place to have a beer. S/v's Madrona, Doin' It, and I were always ready for a beer. Well, Madrona not so much. They have a couple of rug-rats with them so that gives them a slightly different set of priorities.

Having the required first beer in Ovalau before finding a place for lunch

While we were having our beer there was this cute little kid who kept watching us at a distance. I guess we were somewhat of a curiosity to her.

Local kid trying to make sense of a table full of yachties

Later that evening, as we continued our quest for cold beer, we found a nightclub off the main drag. There Monet made a new friend of Epi.

Monet and her new friend, Epi

This would be 'goodbye' for s/v Doin' It. They would head directly for Vanuatu and the Solomons while I would head for Suva and Musket Cove. At the time I still planned on catching up with them 'down island.'
Since I couldn't stand the rough anchorage I soon departed for Suva, the capital of Fiji. This would be an overnight sail of about 15 hours. I left Ovalau in the afternoon when the weather was rainy but absolutely calm. As soon as I was outside the reef the wind picked up and I settled in for a nice evening of sailing downwind and around the corner to Suva.
As the evening wore on, the wind continued to pick up. And, as usual, it clocked around until I was close-hauled and pushing into steep seas. This is not Galena's best point of sail. Truth be told, her best point of sail is "Anchored."
By dawn I was tired. Very tired. Again the wind died as I turned into the harbor entrance. I followed the charts to the area near the Royal Suva Yacht Club. There I was greeted, again, by Rob on Changing Spots. He gave me the lay of the land, as it pertains to the anchorage. He had had some trouble getting his anchor to set and suggested places for me to attemp to anchor. The anchorage is about 20-ft deep but shoals quickly as you approach the yacht club marina.

Galena's track into Suva harbor

I found a spot and also had a bit of trouble getting the anchor to set. After two tries I was satisfied. As usual I ended up not quite where I wanted to be. This time I was a little too close to a sunked fishing boat. In fact, I would later move just to get some distance between me and it.

Suva harbor with the RSYC and anchorage in the lower portion of the picture

I don't have many (any?) pictures of my time in Suva. I was there for a couple of weeks and most of that time was spent crawling from nightclub to nightclub. I was quick to find the clubs where each ethnic group hung out. The Purple Haze was where you went if you wanted to dance with the lovely Indian ladies. The Singles club was always full of oriental ladies. And O'Reiley's was where you could find just about anything/anyone you wanted.
Aside from drinking there was not much to do there. I did some provisioning because I was still planning on heading out to Vanuatu after a short stop at Musket Cove. That plan would change.
Rob and Pauling were heading directly to New Zealand for the cyclone season and they spent their time in Suva getting ready for that passage. It would be a "longest passage" for Pauline. As it turned out, it was not at all pleasent. They even sustained some damage and lost a sail.
I got myself ready for another overnight sail.

Savusavu, Fiji Islands

01 August 2012

Departing Tonga
Voyaging to Fiji
July 2012

There was a time when setting out on a five-day voyage would give me pause. Now I think of it as just a short sail to the next island.
Departing Tonga

Once the decision to leave was made (And I can readily understand why some people stay here longer; even years!) I started looking for a weather window. I figured the trip was about 400-nm and would take about four days. I ended up sailing 426-nm in 5-days with the engine running for the final 80 hrs straight.

There was the additional problem of the fact that the main islands of Fiji are protected by a row of reefs and islands along the eastern side. And that these reefs are about 120nm from the main islands. That causes a navigational/timing issue. I wanted to sail between the reefs in daylight, then had to stay pretty much awake for the transit to the main island, a full day further West.

An alternative was to head further North and go around most of the reefs and islands. But that route was at least 25nm (5 or 6 hrs) longer.

My routes and track between the islands of Vava'u, Tonga and Vanua Levu, Fiji

The wind was forecast to stay up around 15-kts until the weekend of 28 July. Then it would go light for the next several days.

I made the plan to clear customs and immigrations on Wednesday, 25 July, depart the main harbor and anchor at one of the out islands and actually depart Tonga on Thursday. My good friends, Rob and Pauline of s/v Changing Spots were currently out island and, if they were somewhere convenient I'd visit with them Wednesday night.

While doing the final preparations for going to sea I noted that my Icom SSB radio would not power-up. It's probably a loose connection. Or it might be that the thing has finally given up the ghost. That radio been splashed with seawater so many times I'm surprise it has lasted as long as it has. Just one more thing to work on 'tomorrow.'

As a happy little coincidence my friends James and Julie were leaving on the ferry to Tongatapu at midnight Tuesday. We had had an official going away party a week or so ago, but there was planned another, final, going away party at the Sunset Grill for Tuesday. That little gathering gave me the opportunity to say goodbye to all my friends, too.

Wednesday morning I went to Immigrations, Port Captain (paid $15 TOP harbor fees for two months), and finally Customs. I paid my mooring fees and was finished with it all in about 30 minutes. Then a final goodbye to Sandy, Lisa, and Greg over at the Cafe Tropicana and I was off.

I called Changing Spots and found them at a convenient anchorage just a few miles south of town. I motored down to anchor near them. We drank rum, ate popcorn and told stories. The usual cruiser evening. It was a perfect night with a clear sky full of stars and a gentle, warm breeze blowing off the island.

I went back to Galena a little drunk and ready for my next adventure. I didn't know it would come so soon.

I awoke at 2 AM to find Galena bouncing around and the wind howling. The wind had clocked around so it was blowing parallel to the shore with a fetch of a couple miles of deep water. That made for three foot waves that were streaming by and giving me a very uncomfortable ride.

Then I heard a growl from the anchor chain. I watched as Galena lurched back first 20-ft, then another 60-ft. I had the Rocna anchor down and 150-ft of 3/8-inch chain in 30-ft of water. The chain made an awful sound as it scraped over the coral while Galena danced back and forth. I was sure I was dragging. But I hoped it would catch on something before I either went into deep water or onto the beach.

At about 0330 I started the engine and was preparing to motor out into deep water and away from the island. There was no moon and I could just barely make out the island. But I had breadcrumbs on my chartplotter that would get be back to deep water. I waited. The wind continued to blow and then the rain came down hard. And Galena moved back another 30-ft.

I decided if she moved again I'd haul anchor and just head to the lee side of this island and motor around till dawn. Not a desired action but better than dragging back into a coral head. But Galena held. And from the way she was pulling on her anchor I felt she was set again. I shut down the engine at about 4AM and tried to get some sleep.

After dawn the wind died a bit. I was about to go over to Spots for coffee and to compare notes when Rob swam by and said he had just looked at my anchor. He said it had not moved at all! That I was apparently just straightening out my chain along the bottom. But he also said that my anchor's tip looked to be buried into the side of a rock. He said I may have some trouble getting it out. Not the kind of news I wanted to hear.

During morning radio nets Rob found out that the wind had been clocked at 47-kts that morning. Yep, a little windy. There was absolutely no warning of this little weather event. Every forecast had called for 15 or so knots.

Just before noon I said goodbye to Spots; Rob was heading back to Vava'u. After he left I hauled anchor and headed toward Fiji. The anchor came up without much of a problem. Just a little straight-up pressure and it popped loose. Sp I guess it wasn't as 'jammed into a rock" as Rob thought. With only a staysail and a double-reefed mail I was making good speed in the still fresh breeze. The wind was from the SSE at about 15-kts and I was heading West.

The Voyage.

At 11AM on 26 July Galena's sails filled and she headed toward Fiji. As usual it took about 20 minutes to get her settled down and on course. I had decided to keep the Yankee jib attached (but not to raise it just yet). I had hoisted the main with a double reef that I had set up before I weighed anchor. Once I had the staysail up and adjusted Galena settled into a well rehearsed rhythm. Only a few minutes later I had Harvey the Helmsman (my Aries wind vane) properly adjusted and holding a steady course toward open water.

One hour after anchor-up Galena passed South of Hunga Island, off of the Tongan Banks and into the deep ocean water.

Sea conditions were excellent. An eight-foot swell with three feet of wind chop on top. All from the SW nudging Galena gently directly toward Fiji. This lasted almost exactly 24-hours.

Midday on the 27th the wind backed a bit more to North of East pushing me several miles north of my course. And while doing this the wind speed decreased until Galena was down to 1.5 knots. Now, I know I always say that I'm in no hurry, but come on! This was almost drifting.

So I fired up the engine and except for a couple of brief maintenance inspections that yanmar ran for the next 80-odd hours.
You can see that point on the track above. Galena is wandering around a bit and then, BAM! she takes a direct course toward Fiji.

It was about this time that I changed my route from a very safe, up and around the reefs plot to a more direct, right through the reefs and islands route. This would save me about 6 hours of travel time.

So the 27th through the 30th of July was spent going a bit crazy listening to the drone of the engine. Also, with no wind I had to disengage Harvey and revert to Tilly (Raymarine Auto Tiller Pilot).

Some readers may remember way back in July of 2011 when my Tiller Pilot failed. I had just left Panama and was heading toward the Marquesas. Harvey wasn't working well and with the loss of Tilly I almost gave up and turned back to Panama. But of course I didn't. But replacing the electronic auto pilot was a top priority while cooling my heels in Pago Pago. I replaced the burned out unit with a new one (a couple thousand bucks there). This was the first time I really relied on it to steer Galena for any length of time. Tilly worked fine.

I was still using the old drive unit. The drive unit consists of a motor and a ram each contained in an aluminum tube. These two elements are held together by a threaded collar. That collar is made of plastic! Several years ago I had accidentally leaned on the unit and snapped that silly piece of plastic. So I aligned it, wrapped it with duct tape, splinted it with PVC tubing and held the whole thing together with a couple of hose clamps. Looks like shit but has worked fine for about 4 years now. Oh, it was the electronic controller that burned out back in Panama; the drive unit was fine.

Tilly the Raymarine Tiller Pilot in place between the tiller and the gunnel.

Oh, and Tilly's power plug is all broken up, too. But it works. When it finally craps out I'll pull out the new drive unit from the new system I bought while in Am Samoa.

All during day two I had only the Staysail up. It was sheeted in tight and was only there to mitigate Galena's rather violent rolling motion. The wind had died but the seas were still acting up. Galena was rolling so much that I actually put a cushion on the floor of the main saloon and slept there. That is the point around which Galena rolls and pitches so the motion is minimal there.

By the morning of day three the seas were flat. They had that glassy look that says, "Boy, you aren't sailing anywhere today." so I dropped the staysail and just motored along at a slow, steady, fuel-sipping 3.5 knots.

The end of day three, with the sun sinking into a still ocean

I turned the camera around for a shot of yours truly. I'm generally a mess after three days at sea with no reason to shave, or pursue most personal hygiene regimens.

About 4 AM on 30 July I looked at the moonlight dancing on the calm ocean and was surprised to see land! Off both my port and starboard bows were low land masses. The moon was about to set and these land masses were just dark lines on the horizon. I turned on the radar. I took compass readings with my binoculars. I drew lines on my paper charts. Everything seemed to agree with what the chartplotter was telling me: "Galena is where she should be and so are the reefs and islands."

During the few minutes I was below plotting bearing lines on my paper charts the moon set. When I looked out again I saw only black, featureless ocean. No division between ocean and sky. Just black.

Yeah, I know (intellectually) that I could just proceed onto the banks and slide between the islands and around the reefs. All I had to do was stay on my plotted route line. Easy. The gaps were 3 or 4 miles wide. Not exactly threading a needle here.

We're talking about possibly hitting a reef. This is my home. This is my life. And, hey, the sun will be up in two hours. Maybe I should just drift out here for two hours and then eyeball my path.

I didn't feel comfortable driving onward when a two-hour wait would make me so much safer.

So I shut down the engine and drifted till sunrise.

Monday, 30 July
Showing where I drifted waiting for daylight and about where I was 12 hours later a sundown

When the sun came up on Monday everything looked perfect. Except for the continued complete lack of wind.
So I light off the engine and moved on to the banks. Understand, gentle reader, that I sill had over 120 miles to go. A full 30 hours of motoring until I reached port.

Morning, 30 July. The islands and reefs were right where they should have been

While motoring through the outer islands of Fiji I was impressed by the number of islands. These are much higher than those throughout Tonga. And they are all topped with the obligatory cloud.

Every island had it's own little cloud cap

As the day wore on I noticed I was no longer alone. Four boats that had left Tonga on Saturday were now about a mile south of me and passing me quickly. As it turned out I was number 5 into the harbor of 5 boats that Monday.

It was about noon on 31 July 2012 when I made the final turn and headed in toward Nakama Creek (the area between Nawi Island and the mainland (which, of course is also an island)).

The final approach to the mooring field at Savusavu, Fiji

I called in to the Copra Shed marina for a mooring assignment and assistance with Customs and Immigration clearance procedures. They sent a small skiff out to guide me to a mooring ball. The guy took my line and passed it through the mooring pendent and I was secure. He said, "Welcome to Fiji, my friend. I'll bring the officials to your boat as soon as they are done with the other boats." So I waited.

Four official eventually worked their way through my paperwork. First was the health inspector. She asked a lot of questions about the state of my health, declared me fit, gave me a form and told me to go up to the hospital and pay a F$173 processing fee.

Next came customs and immigrations. Lots of forms to fill out. But no fees.

Then the Biosecurity officer came aboard. He charged me F$89 to take away my refuse. But he didn't take away any refuse. I'm not sure what the fee was.

Since I had to stay aboard until all the forms were filled out I had no local currency. They all said it would be OK to pay tomorrow.

I immediately went downtown. I found the ubiquitous ANZ bank ATM and got local money. I was walking past a bar with I spotted Kim and Tamara. A couple of Aussies I had first met on Moorea way back when. I stopped for a drink. I was completely wasted by the time I got back to Galena.

My big sister, Nancy, has a birthday next week. I have not seen her in a few years. She lives in Las Vegas and is holding my car for me. I checked the prices for airline tickets and booked a flight. I'm leaving Monday for two weeks in the desert. We'll continue this when I get back.

Tonga Update

01 July 2012

Tonga Update #2
June-July 2012

A little more background on exactly where I am. Or rather, where Tonga is.

This is the Big Picture. I've labeled Samoa, Tonga, and Fiji. You can see where they are relative to Australia way over on the left.

A Google Earth image of the area around Tonga

Also, here is a link to download a Google Earth track of Galena's course from Key West, Florida to Fiji. It runs from December 2010 through August 2012.

Click here to download Galena's Track Key West to Fiji

Tonga is really three main groups of islands spread out over 170 miles and running north-south. I was at Vava'u, the northern-most island group.

The main harbor of Vava'u is well protected.

Here you see the anchorage at Neiafu, the main city on Vava'u, Tonga

I've been on Vava'u, the Kingdom of Tonga, for two months. And I have had a wonderful time here. Tonga is so different from American Samoa. I think I've mentioned somewhere that Pago Pago, American Samoa, is a working town. The Starkist Tuna factory employs about half of the working population with the local government employing most of the rest. That just leaves the shop keepers and restaurateurs who support those workers.

Compare that with Vava'u: Nothing here but tourists, sport fishermen, and those that cater to them. The tourists come to watch the humpback whales and the sport fishermen come for the fantastic deep sea fishing available just outside the harbor. Most of the visitors are from New Zealand and Australia.

Essentially this is a playground. The expats here are also mostly from Australia and New Zealand with a few Brits and Yanks thrown in for a good measure of diversity. They mostly run the shops, bars and other services.

For the yachtie community there is the main town and the "Out Islands." The main town, Neiafu has all the amenities one needs. Notice I didn't say "wants." Moorings out front are available for US$10 per day but there are a few spots shallow enough to anchor for free. There are ten or twelve restaurants serving a wide variety of foods from Tongan to Italian to Asian. And there are just as many bars to crawl among.

Then there's Out Islands.Just south of the main island are forty or fifty small islands. Each is worthy of visiting to enjoy the beaches, the snorkeling, or just the solitude.

My modus was to stay in town for a week or two, then head out to the islands for a week. Then back to town to see if it survived without me. It usually did

It wasn't long before all the bartenders and waitresses knew my name and I could walk into just about any place and get a warm "Hi, Bill" and be handed a cold Maka beer.

For example Doug who runs the Sunset Grill. He always played the best music and served the coldest beer. He also had really good food. I found myself heading there almost every day just to hang out with my friends.

Doug of the Sunset Grill with his friend, Ana

Sandy, who runs Vava'u Kart Safari's, at the Sunset Grill saying something like, "You're not going to publish that picture anywhere, are you?" Of course not.

And Amecia, who owns South Seas Treasures, telling us how it really is.

Damian worked with the Vava'u EPA and was always ready to party. Here he is at, where else, the Sunset Grill with Amecia. In the background is Vaha, my favorite waitress.

Another place with character is Tonga Bob's. They had the drag queen show each Wednesday, the trivial quiz on Thursdays, and... I don't remember the others. But something was happening there almost every night.

The bartenders at Tonga Bob's

Me getting a bit wasted with friends at Tonga Bob's

Looking through to the back deck at the Cafe Tropicana. Best coffee on the island.

Some of my many friends relaxing at the Aquarium.

And the view from the Aquarium. That's me rowing in from Galena, sitting on a mooring.

While out island I spent quite a bit of time swimming and snorkeling around the beautiful coral and caves.

Me in a cave

The Wreck of s/v Nevillus
June 15

Last night at about 1130 an EPIRB went off 40nm WSW of here. A Bavaria 50 hit Late Island. A short distress call was made by one of the two-man crew to his wife. He said that the boat was breaking up. Nothing else was heard.

At dawn a P-3 Orion from NZ was on station reporting a 5 mile long debris field near the island. Two sport fishing boats took off from here and were on station 2 hrs later. They searched the debris field but found no one. Two men were on board. They are presumed lost.

It's a reminder to everyone to be careful out there.

My friend, Rob, on Changing Spots is a retired doctor. He went out with the rescue boats. This is Rob's take on the rescue mission:

It has been a very traumatic, busy time over the last few days. A sailing vessel ran into an island at 11:30PM last Thurs, in a very dark night, with strong winds. It ran into the middle of the rock face of an island, and was battered to small pieces. The remains of the hull then sank in 30 ft of water, 20 feet from the rock wall.

The floating pieces, all small, were in a narrow band to the southeast over 8 miles 12 hours later. A great deal of safety gear, unused, was also found and collected.

Documenting some of the debris

un deployed life raft was found floating in the debris field

We left the harbor just after sunrise, and arrived at the debris site less than 3 hours later. Another boat arrived two hours later.
Seeing the battered condition of the wreckage and the site of the crash, it is difficult to imagine anybody surviving - but the search goes on. We went out the first three days, but the third day, Sunday, we were forced to return. Perhaps more on that later?

Some of the larger pieces that were found

It has been a great team of people to work with. We have learned a lot, and it has certainly been an adventure.

The rescue team searched the shoreline. Part of the boat's bow was found in the rocks. The keel and rudder were found in 30-ft of water just off the rocks. There was no apparent way anyone could have climbed up those rocks in the extraordinarily rough conditions on the night of the incident.

On July 26, as I sailed toward Fiji, I took a picture of Late Island.

Late Island, looking South, from about 17 miles away.

It's a big island. Hard to understand how anyone could just sail into the north face. I guess we'll never know what happened to cause the accident. There's a lot of speculation. The weather was bad that night.

I did notice one thing.
Jimmy Cornell's book, World Cruising Routes, has a 'preferred route' from Vava'u, Tonga, to Suva, Fiji. The route takes you just north of Late island before turning you south. If you remove that waypoint from the route, the route goes dangerously close to Late Island.

Published preferred route (green) Tonga to Fiji, and the route without the Late Island waypoint (red).

The Parting of a Mooring Line
June 25

There I was. This is no shit. Thought I was gonna die...

I spent the last few days visiting the little islands south of Neiafu (the main village on Vava'u, Tonga).
As I came into one anchorage I see a couple of mooring balls. Some of the villages put out moorings so the cruisers don't drop anchors all over the coral. And to make a little money.

A few hours after I picked up the mooring, sure enough the village elder comes out and collects the fee. I planned on staying two days and paid him the whole $12 US.

After a very quiet night the wind came up with the sun. Soon it was blowing 20 kts and the anchorage was pretty bouncy. I considered moving but decided against it. All day and all the next night the wind blew between 10 and 20 knots.

The second morning I was again considering moving. I was on deck drinking coffee when I suddenly realized Galena was adrift. I looked down and the mooring ball and chain were coming with me. The mooring chain had let go or broken. With the wind still blowing 20-kts and the rocky shore just a few hundred feet away I fired up the engine and, taking care to keep the trailing mooring lines, ball, and chain clear of the propeller, maneuvered for sea room. Once I had some distance from shore I ran forward and cut the mooring loose.

When I got back to the cock pit and had Galena heading out of the anchorage I suddenly realized how close a call that was.

If that mooring chain had parted just a couple of hours earlier I would not have been in the cockpit drinking coffee. I would have been below and asleep. Galena would have hit the rocks before I had any idea there was a problem. It was just plain luck that saved me and my boat.

From now on I anchor when I'm out there.

I told this story on the local morning net. Immediately three other islands/organizations came on saying that their moorings were safe. Yeah, well, that's what the guy who took my money said, too.

Then on July 12, on the morning cruiser's net there was an announcement that caught my ear.

One of these "professionally installed, government sponsored" moorings let go. Again, and fortunately, the crew of the boat was able to get control of the situation and anchor before any damage was done to their boat. The island/village has asked yachties to stay off the remaining moorings until "a full investigation is completed and an understanding of the failure is determined." At least they are taking a responsible position. Kudos to them for that.

The anchorage involved is at: S18 43.356 W174 06.028

Ben and Lisa own an island.
It's a small, two acre island named Fetoko.

Fetoko. Ben and Lisa's private island

For some time they have been designing and building a small restaurant and resort. They recently complete a major portion of the roof of the main building. An event worthy of a party. All the permanent palangies were invited along with a handful of cruisers. My friend, Sandy, invited me along. Since it's a few miles from town we sailed Galena over.

Galena's track from Neiafu to Fetoko, in the Vava'u Group of the Kingdom of Tonga

Their first structure was a metal home to shelter them from the frequent rain.

The large tent they lived in is now left for the almost constant visitors. They've named it the CondoMinimum.

They have also built a nice generator shed of concrete block. It blends well with the island's landscape.

The new roof on the main structure is concrete. I'm not sure how it's actually constructed but it looks great. Of course it's also the main rain water catchment system.

The party started somewhat relaxed. Here Sandy, Lisa, Billy, and Bubu relax before the main party.

As soon as I arrived, Billy "Snips" gave me a hair cut. Billy is one of the interesting ex-pats on the island. From England, he's about to open a theater and start with one-man performances. He's also a professional hair stylist. After cutting my hair he had others lined up for his services.

Billy "Snips" cutting hair on the beach

Of course, they have a very nice beach on which to play, or just lie about.

The anchorage West of the island is perfect in that the water gently shoals to about 20-ft making dropping the hook easy.

Galena and Changing Spots anchored off Ben and Lisa's island

Vava'u Harbor Racing

Each Friday Martin, manager of the Moorings fleet here on Vava'u, organizes a race for the cruisers in the harbor.

Martin, race organizer

Usually about eight boats participate. I thought it might be fun. It was.

For this demanding 3.2-mile race I took on crew: friends Carol and Sandy agreed to join me. Sandy had sailed with me once before when we went down to Ben and Lisa's island party. But Carol didn't know much about boats and even less about sailing. We were starting with the 'how do I operate a winch' level of instruction.

That meant that I had to do most of the actual sailing. But it was fun having a couple of lovely ladies on board. And I figured if anything went wrong, I could blame them.

Me hauling up the staysail at the start of the race

To cut to the end we came in last. But had a blast. And Galena looked good out there in the harbor.

After the race my crew and I relaxed with a beer or two.

Me and Sandy having a beer after excitement of the race

Unfortunately Carol was taking all the pictures as well as handling the starboard jib sheet so I didn't get any pictures of her on board.
Vessel Name: Galena
Vessel Make/Model: Westsail 32 (1975 #511)
Hailing Port: Key West, FL, USA
Crew: Bill Shaw
Trip 1 (Apr 03)-Ft Lauderdale, FL to Kent Narrows, MD (2-wks) Trip 2 (Nov 04)-MD to Bahamas (via ICW) and return (6-mos) Trip 3 (Nov 05)-MD to BVI (via direct ocean rt) and return via Bahamas (7-mos) Trip 4 (Nov 07)-MD to Bahamas via ICW and return Trip 5 (Nov 08) MD to Bahamas Return Trip 5 [...]
Home Page: http://sv-galena.com
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Galena's Photos -


Who: Bill Shaw
Port: Key West, FL, USA