We had an easy exit from the berth- not us being clever – just very little wind and no boat in the space opposite us so we happily motored out of San Pedro marina on the next part of the voyage – off to the Balearics. As we left the wind picked up a little and we had a perfect sail for about 2 hours and then the wind died completely. This pattern went on for the rest of the day – wind for an hour or two and then nothing. Pretty boring sailing really and certainly a very boring coastline from Torrevieja to past Alicante. I don’t know what possessed Spain to have destroyed so completely what must have once been such a pretty coast by the endless concrete tower blocks and over development. Money I suppose and you can’t really blame the Spanish – they were only fulfilling a demand. If no one had wanted to holiday there they would have stopped building. I can’t imagine how the thousands of rooms in the developments are filled now though.

By 6 o’clock we were heading for the jewel in the crown of thorns - Benidorm. From a distance it looks like a deformed Manhattan skyline and when you get closer it just gets worse. Although of all the ugly places that we passed along that stretch I couldn’t help but have a sneaking admiration for the sheer audacity and brashness of Benidorm. There are even new skyscrapers going up showing an admirable confidence in the world’s need for what Benidorm can offer. The largest on the skyline, with its jagged top (a futuristic architects idea of beauty no doubt) immediately reminds you of the iconic pictures of ground zero. Maybe we are supposed to draw this comparison?? I will stop moaning about it now – I sound like Prince Charles .. all the dear little people should live in sweet whitewashed mud huts and go to market by horse and cart. There must be some middle ground though surely...

We finally gave up at about 8 o’clock and dropped anchor outside the marina at Vilajoyosa. It had been a slow, hot , joyless sail and we were ready to go to bed and try again the next day. We had forgotten that it was the 16th July and the festival of the Virgen del Carmen (or something like that). The fishing fleet of Vilajoyosa had not forgotten and were in festive mood and we were conveniently anchored for the show. In fact so conveniently placed were we that we were right slap bang in the way of the procession of fishing boats, motor boats and everything that would float that streamed out of the harbour decorated in flags, buntings, streamers and hooting every horn they owned! It was too late to move so we sat on deck smiling genially at everyone going by but inwardly terrified someone was going to run us down as no one seemed to be looking where they going or seemed in control of any of the vessels. This is what is must be like to be inadvertently caught up in the bull run at Pamplona! Thankfully eventually they had nearly all passed (a few stragglers were left but seemed harmless) We considered moving the anchor in case they came back the same way but the procession moved around the bay in a large circle and so it seemed wouldn’t be coming near us again. I have no idea what the festival celebrates but the main events seemed to revolve around the boats circling and priests on board the largest fishing vessel at the front asking the Virgen del Carmen to intercede for them. Whether with the gods of the sea or with the new EU fishing quotas I am not sure. Then it was back in to the harbour for music on the quay and more general merriment. It was not destined to be a peaceful night...

Next day all was quiet and apart from some sad streamers left on the quay no remnant of the festivities could be seen. Still no wind though so we motored 15 miles long the coast until we lost the will to live and dropped anchor at Altea. A nice enough bay and the coast line is certainly prettier and less spoilt once you leave Benidorm behind. Calpe, Altea, Moraira and Javea are in quite pretty bays without too much high rise development. We stayed in Altea for the rest of the day and the next – the weather was hot, the water warm and we lazed about on the boat, eating and swimming and waiting for the wind. By lunchtime on the 18th we thought it was time to try again and at least move further down the coast towards Denia where we would strike out towards Ibiza. We hoisted the sails and slowly made our way along the coast intending to stop for the night when we were in sight of Denia but slowly we realised that the wind was picking up a little and more amazingly it was in the right direction to take us to Ibiza. We took a chance that it would hold up and we set a course for Ibiza .

We both expected the wind to die and to have to turn back but perhaps the Virgen del Carmen interceded and we sailed all night (albeit pretty slowly at times) with a fair wind and by 5 in the morning we were passing San Antonio Bay in Ibiza. We kept going until lunchtime when the wind suddenly picked up to 20 knots plus and the sea became quite rough. As always either no wind or too much! Just pleased to have made it this far without using the engine we headed in to Cala Binirras, a really beautiful small anchorage and dropped the hook. This was how it was meant to be – steep and rocky sides with woods and trees surrounding a secluded inlet with crystal clear warm turquoise water to swim in. Ibiza has such a bad image but on the north side of the island it is truly one of the most beautiful places in Europe. We had a magical day there and as the sun went down we realised that as the bay faced due west the sun would go down spectacularly over the water as if designed to be be seen from the bay. I have seen a lot of sunsets on the water but this has to be one of the best. A crowd gathered on the beach to watch the sunset, then a band of drummers started playing and the people danced until the sun disappeared. Perfect...

Tomorrow off to Mallorca..