The weather forecast for the next few days predicted gales, storms and winds of Force 7 and 8 so after our 4 day non stop sail it looked like we were in for an enforced extended stop. At least we were in a safe, pretty bay with lots of shelter but not a shop in sight. Looks like life does revolve around tomatoes after all especially tinned. As we are, after all, in Italy, it seemed right that all meals should involve pasta, tomatoes and, of course, wine....
The weather forecast did not improve for the next 3 days (yes I know it is July and there is a heatwave in the UK) so the scenery became very familiar, the boat became very clean as we had plenty of time and the fresh fruit and veg finally ran out after 11days. Luckily the wine store was still holding.
On day 3 we lifted the anchor and tried to head to Corsica but after an hour gave up and came back as the sea was still too rough. We blew up the dinghy and went ashore and had a very expensive coffee in the one and only beach café. When we came back another boat had moved from the other side of the bay and was anchored nearby. This belonged to Erich from France (and the world as he put it) who was sailing with two friends Francine and Damian. Their English was better than our French but after much wine no one cared and we had a very pleasant evening. Martyn was able to use his two words of French and did actually say “mange tout, mange tout” to our French friends` bewilderment. My French was not up to explaining Del Trotter and Only Fools so the moment passed and they just thought the strange Englishman wanted some peas! Erich who said he was a butterfly flitting among the flowers of life (!) was a mine of useful of information about the coasts of Sardinia and Corsica and where to find good anchorages and also where not to pay for moorings. We took copious notes. He recommended several beautiful place in Corsica pronouncing them fantastique and telling us not to miss them. Unfortunately he was not able to revisit many of them due to differences with a previous Sicilian lady friend who now lived in Corsica and was likely to kill him or worse if he landed on Corsican soil. But he recommended them to us. Francine also had interesting stories to tell – she had been in Phuket when the Tsunami hit and survived by clinging to a tree as the waters rushed in - it had a profound effect on her and after going back to Thailand to help with the rebuilding she has since spent as much time as possible sailing and wandering the world. We parted next day and as as with so many people we meet sailing that we are unlikely to meet again we have fond memories gained in one short evening....
The weather finally improved and after filling up with water courtesy of a a very pleasant Italian man who ran the local diving school we set off and motored along the spectacular coastline towards Corsica. It was slow progress all day as the wind never really picked up and we bimbled along until we came to the end of Sardinia. We dropped the anchor just outside a national marine park in the Bay of Asinara where the water was absolutely turquoise. (one of Erich`s recommendations) Perhaps banning engines, fishing boats and general boating pollution does have an effect after all.
Still not much wind the next day so we decided to sail across the bay instead of going round the top of the island as we would be able to stop at the Isola di Rosso if the wind died (as seemed likely). The weather was still very unsettled and the weather forecast full of dire warning of storms and gales in the near vicinity if not actually where we were. Of course, it was always warm but it was often cloudy with sudden outbreaks of rain and thunder. At least the salt was being washed off the boat. In our 3 seasons out of the UK in France, Portugal, Spain, the Balaerics and now Italy and Corsica we have realised that the sun does not always shine, it does rain and there are amazingly strong, sudden winds and storms but at least the sea is always warm to swim in.
We settled for the night at anchor at Isola di Rosso with seven or eight other boats, anchored like us outside the marina wall. Fairly late in the evening a Spanish boat arrived and after some initial difficulties finally anchored. In our experience the Spanish are not known for their anchoring techniques and this was to be the case again. Almost before the anchor was down and the boat settled the entire party was in the dinghy and off ashore to find what ever revelry was to be had. We had gone below because the weather wasn’t encouraging us to sit up on deck when we were aware of horns and shouts from other boats. We were up like meerkats, of course – it was dark but we could all see that the Spanish boat`s anchor hadn’t held and the boat was drifting freely towards the rocks. In times of trouble the boating fraternity usually help each other out (after all there for the grace of god etc etc) and every boat was doing its bit to attract the attention of the hapless boat`s owners ashore by loud hailers and horns - but no response. Eventually the Frenchman in the boat next to us got in his dinghy and rowed quite a long way (and he only had one oar!) over to the drifting boat and got the anchor down. He was joined by a German from another boat. Viva La Entente Cordiale! These guys saved the Spanish boat but once they had done so and everything was under control the Italian police arrived in a very swanky rib and circled the boat many times sending up a a tsunami of wash to make sure that we all knew they were there. I expect there will be a bill for their callout although they had actually done nothing. By the time the Spanish had finished enjoying their evening ashore and returned to find their boat safely re anchored about half a mile from where they had left it, the excitement for the night was over. We discussed what we would have done if that that been us and we decided that as they were probably unaware of most of what had gone on and who had saved their boat they couldn’t really thank anyone. I think we would have disappeared at first light. .. However the Spanish were still there in the morning and it really hadn’t been their night as in the morning they dragged all the mattresses and bedding out on deck to dry. It had rained in the night and they obviously hadn’t closed their hatches. I wonder if they will continue sailing....
Next day the weather was slightly better and so we went ashore and yay there were shops!!Well to be precise A shop – the SISA market but we were able to buy some fresh groceries and restock with wine. I always say we have enough food on board for 3 weeks but I don’t usually have to prove it. This was our first shop for 14 days. So now to Corsica and through the notorious Bonifacio Straits....