We departed Green Turtle Cay on Tuesday, January 12, bidding a fond farewell to Donny, who asked to be recommended to cruisers we might meet (to which we readily agreed), and Matt, who offered to come help us catch lobster and cook a meal aboard (to which we readily agreed!). The trip from there to Great Guana Cay requires a passage to the outside - the Atlantic - via Whale Cay Pass. The day was calm (virtually no wind) and the sky cloudless. We could see the rollers breaking on Whale Cay and the reefs beyond, but we encountered only a gentle roll in the passage. We set a line (still only one fish caught thus far - need some fisher-people aboard), but no luck. Interestingly, as we proceeded farther south, the water became even clearer - we could see the bottom in >40' of water. Now we understood how eerie it must be to cross the Bahama Banks at night, with a bright moon and starfish in sight!
Once inside the pass, we took the route closest to the shoreline of Great Guana Cay and decided to anchor in Fishers Bay rather than proceed into the main harbor. When we entered, there were few other boats, but as the afternoon wore on, several arrived, including two (Wingspread and North Star) with whom we have been leap-frogging since we left West End. It has intrigued us to no end to meet cruisers, and they in turn introduce us to others, who know still others of our acquaintance. For instance, several folks we have met know the folks we met in Allans-Pensicola, and, as noted, we keep crossing paths with others met along the way. After we departed Green Turtle, we received an e-mail from a friend in Vermont who cruised in the Bahamas for several years asking us to say hello to Bruce of Zingara, whom he had met a few years back and with whom we spent time in Green Turtle. We also are expecting to receive friends on board next week who e-mailed to tell us of two boats in Marsh Harbor, one owned by a fraternity brother and his wife, and the other by friends from Maryland. It seems that one does not need to go so far as six degrees of separation, as on shore, to meet someone who knows someone else you know. This (meeting of folks) is one of our great pleasures on the voyage.
While at Great Guana Cay, we swam and snorkeled (yes, the water not only is clearer here, but also warmer than just a few miles north), and walked to Nippers, a bar on the top of the dunes overlooking the Atlantic. There, we acquired a CD by The Barefoot Man so we can play steel drum and island music during evening vapors.
Because the winds were forecast to pick up, and from a quadrant not favorable to our anchorage (and the holding was none too good to begin with; Van dove down and set the anchor by hand), we decided to depart Great Guana and head to Treasure Cay, which is reported to have "one of the 10 best beaches in the world." After walking on it, we tend to agree (even though we have not seen them all - yet); the sand is soft and fine, almost like confectioner's sugar on the approach to the beach, and hard packed along the shore for easy walking. The water is incredibly blue, tourquoise, and crystal clear! We intend to return.
While heading toward the beach, we came upon a guide and his clients and the eight 4+ pound lobsters they just caught. They were the biggest we ever have seen. They were caught in holes in water about 15' deep, so we will have to try harder than we have to feast for ourselves. (At the cost of the guide and boat, those still were some mighty expensive bugs!)
Today, we hope to explore a bit of the Treasure Cay village before departing tomorrow for Marsh Harbor, laundry, reprovisioning, and guests.