February 18, 2011 Georgetown, Exumas
We departed Emerald Bay on February 14, Valentine’s Day. The winds had steadied (if not moderated) and we decided we either needed to leave or be stuck as the forecast was for increasing winds. And, with the winds inside, the marina would not let us move, so the damage (to the toe-rail) and discomfort would have continued. Dan, from Quest, and a friend of his (also from VT) saw us off. We untied the spider’s web and gathered and stowed everything where it belonged so as not to have stuff under foot on the way out and down to Georgetown because it was rough outside. While Lauren got the rest of the lines off the deck, Van circled in the inner turning harbor readying to depart once Lauren was inside the cockpit. Meanwhile, a small crowd gathered to watch us off and through the cut. (Actually, the entrance to Emerald Bay is a narrow chute between two concrete bulkheads, followed (on the outside) by a manmade jetty that looks like giant concrete jacks (remember the game?).) When we were prepared, we pushed on out and encountered pretty heavy seas and cross currents, but it was not too bad. The waves were 5-9’ and every time we climbed up one of the big ones, we fell off the back side and came down with a splash! Quite dramatic. Several vessels called to ask about conditions and we were glad to provide a report.
We turned south and decided to motor (only 10 miles or so) to Georgetown, both to charge the batteries and to avoid having to douse even the jib while trying to enter a new place in a cut that was described as difficult in bad weather. Given the way points and ranges for navigation, it turned out to be not so bad after all. We welcomed our arrival after the rough ride down and then proceeded to pick our way through the fleet of almost 300 boats at anchor on the western shore of Stocking Island. What a different place from all the others we have enjoyed! We were warned that it might look like Block Island on a crowded weekend. While it is not that bad (the harbor is large and boats are spread everywhere), it sure was not the 1 or 2 boats we had come to enjoy in other anchorages.
Georgetown (aka “Chicken Harbor” because most cruisers do not venture further south and hole up here for the winter) is a favorite cruising ground and the cruisers are well organized. The “Cruisers Net” every morning announces the day’s doings, upcoming events, and seminars available at one place or another. People also ask for and are offered assistance for one sort of problem or another, share spare parts, etc. It is a very congenial group and people pitch in where they can and as they are interested. A sampling of events today: a couple was being married on Honeymoon Beach and all cruisers were invited (we saw a lot of dinghies making their way there as we were headed back to Gratitude from a hike – a squall came up so the wedding party undoubtedly got drenched; we, however, were invited out of the rain aboard The Dove and weathered the storm with a rum punch). Tonight, there is a dinghy disco ball – people are invited to surround a large motor yacht in their dinghies, music will be played, free margueritas will be passed out (not sure how that will be managed), and all will shine their spotlights/flashlights to create a giant disco ball light. (No, we are not going.) The other day, there was an announcement for a meeting of owners of Whitby/Brewer yachts (Whitby was the Canadian predecessor of the company that built Gratitude). We went ashore for that and have been amazed to see at least 8 other boats of the same or similar design, but Gratitude is the prettiest!
As noted earlier, we took a nice hike today (after we sanded and varnished the toe-rail) from Honeymoon Beach, along Tiki’s Trail, to Monument Beach, had lunch there, and tried to find a path to the monument (atop Monument Hill), but were not successful. We will try a different trail up there another time. The trails are quite varied: some are fairly easy, sandy walkways, others are craggy, sharp limestone, and some are quite steep. The paths today wound through all kinds of vegetation making it appear we were in a short jungle. When we emerged onto Monument Beach, there was a large limestone shelf that is grey/black in color. Some enterprising folks have placed white limestone rocks on top to spell out different signs and symbols, one of which was a huge heart shaped area within which was written in rocks “I Love U Moma!” That made someone’s Valentine’s day.
While we were preparing for dinner, another squall came through. The sky blackened to the East, the winds came up to >20 knots, and the rain started. There was a complete rainbow, visible from one end to the other over the beach. I tried to capture it, but it was too large. And then it rained torrents! Good to wash the salt of Gratitude. (The water is very salty here, and the crystals are huge. Maybe those folks who harvested the salt all those years ago knew what they were doing.)
Tomorrow night, we are going out for dinner with other boating friends. We heard of a nice restaurant on the other side of the island and they are having a rake and scrape band. Barefoot Man, here we come!