It is blowing, dark, and somewhat stormy as a cold front moves through, so we are staying put in Spanish Wells. (In the last 1-15 hours, the wind has clocked through all 360 degrees of the compass, and they are forecast to increase in intensity as the day goes on.) We had a short rain squall yesterday, which rewarded us with a rainbow.

Our trip on the fast ferry to Harbor Island was quite a ride. We guesstimated that we were making some 20+ knots (about 3-4 times faster than Gratitude) while weaving through the Devil’s Backbone, appropriately named. There were spots where the boat changed course within several of its own boat lengths as it wiggled through the reefs and coral heads. At one point, someone could have tossed beers from the beach we were so close. (Of course, there was no one on the beach – too bad, because it was a beautiful beach.) We arrived in the harbor of Harbor Island at about 11:15 and pulled up to the government dock, which was swarming with folks renting golf carts. (That is the preferred means of transportation on these islands. Although there are a few cars and trucks, most people use the carts as they are small, maneuverable in the tiny streets, and fairly cheap to run.) We had thought of walking where we wanted to go, but decided to rent a cart so as to see more of the island, which we were glad we did – there are some hills on Briland (the “abbreviation” of Harbor Island > Harb-risland > Briland) and it is bigger than one would want to walk in the limited time between ferries.

Of course, we did the requisite shopping (basket weaving stands, T-shirt shops, clothing stores, Bahama Crafts and Tings, etc.) and then decided to go to lunch at the Coral Sands hotel, which had been recommended by one of the shopkeepers (who is Bahamian, lives on Briland during the winter months, and has a home in Stowe, VT for the warmer months). The restaurant / beach bar is right on and stands above the pink sand beach for a lovely view of the beach, the ocean, and the shore-side vegetation. After lunch (variously lobster and pork dumplings, Mahi Mahi Caesar salad, grouper sandwich, all washed down with the requisite Bahama Mamas), we took a walk on the beach. The sand does have a pink cast (likely from the coral sands) and it is wide and long. As we passed one resort, a man was raking the seaweed from the beach – in front of that resort. There were miles of seaweed, except for that short strip of beach. Van commented to him that he would have to do it again tomorrow, to which he replied “every day, when the wind blows from this direction I do this every day – job security”, and they both laughed.

It is obvious, as we had been forewarned, that Harbor Island is a resort and tourist island, unlike Spanish Wells. As one boater put it, Harbor Island is a dual society – the served and the servers. In contrast, Spanish Wells is a working community that is very independent. (In fact, we were told it is the only island in the Bahamas with its own utility because the people here do not want to rely on others.) Although the island is fairly self-sufficient, the residents are warm, friendly, and inviting. Many expressed the same sentiment as Caroline (Jock’s wife, who manages the mooring field and pilots boats through the Devil’s Backbone) “this island, I do not care if I never leave it.” Of course, some do, for education, jobs, or to seek a spouse – there are a few very common last names on the island. Most people also have several sources of income, whether it be fishing, something to do with boats, or providing goods and services. For instance, we bought stone crab claws from Jock and Caroline for dinner the other night. Boy were they good – the biggest we had seen – but we had to resort to a hammer to break the claws open.

In view of the weather, today is a stay-aboard day, baking, cleaning, reading, etc. There always are chores to do. Well, we may go ashore to see what The Restaurant is serving for lunch!