Spanish Wells holds a special attraction for cruisers. It is a clean, snug little place, populated by several hundred people year ‘round, who are hard workers and take pride in their community. The island (actually, the area called Spanish Wells is situated on two islands, Russell Island and Georges Cay) is home to numerous fishing boats, one cleaner and more well kept than another with the result that they all look like they just stepped out of a boat-yard. And, there is a boat yard here with pretty sophisticated, if out-door, capabilities. While walking back from a beach combing excursion, we met one of the owners of the boatyard and learned the partners also have a marine construction business that they pursue throughout the islands. Among other projects they have worked on is the development of Bell Island in the Exumas for the Aga Kahn, where the “service facilities” and marina for the work boats cost $80 million to build. It must be nice to have a budget like that to work with!

People watching and meeting is one of our favorite past-times while cruising. We have met many retired folks who have taken up cruising, and this year many young couples who have decided to cruise while they are young and without children or other earth-bound responsibilities. As well, many of the people are from different parts of the world. Here, we are moored between John and Debbie, on Nyanga III, and Jans and Susan, aboard Peter Pan. John worked for Shell Oil during his working years and lived in numerous places, including England, his native home, and various places in Africa and the Middle East, including Gabon. Debbie was born and raised in Abderdeen and Nyanga is a 47’ sloop they bought in North Carolina and have sailed for the past 4 years. When they retired, they decided to move to Victoria, BC, and they have invited us to come visit – and go salmon and halibut fishing – when next we are in Seattle. Jans and Susan are in their late-30s/early-40s and are German, hailing from Hanover. They built Peter Pan (she is a steel vessel) and have sailed her in the Mediteranean, through the Straits of Gibraltar, up the coast of Portugal, across the Atlantic to Brazil, through the Caribbean, and up to Newport, RI via Bermuda. They both have degrees in Social Work and stop periodically en route and work – typically in shipyards restoring and repairing various kinds of vessels (pleasure, etc.). We all went to Happy Hour at the new Shipyard Restaurant and were “over-served” on “two-fers”. (In the photo, note the lighted cruise ships way off on the horizon, several miles off-shore. Those are the kinds of ships we ran with sailing from Bimini.) After cocktails, Jans and Susan stayed at the open air bar drinking beers while the “old folks” retreated to the dining area for dinner. John had what looked like a very nice hamburger, Lauren and Van had caesar salads with grilled tuna steaks, and Debbie had Mac ‘n Cheese and Lobster. (It seems oxymoronic to mix the plebian with the sublime, but Deb said it was delicious.) We managed to find our way back to the dinghies and get back to our respective boats for the night.

Beach combing is another periodic undertaking, and there is a beautiful beach on the north shore of Spanish Wells. The sand is very fine and there are not many shells, and no sea glass, but it is nice for walking, sunning, and more people watching. Yesterday, we watched a man in his motorized para-glider flying along the beach and catching thermals way up to the clouds. Different strokes for different folks!

And, of course, some of our “entertainment” is boat toilette and maintenance. We had a very heavy dew this morning (the first one this trip) and that enabled Van to “wash” Gratitude. His chore yesterday was to clean the stove (both top and beneath the burners – lovely), so we can continue to eat well. We have stocked up on lobster here (this is the “lobster capital of the Bahamas” – they are shipped fresh all around the world, including a big export market to China) and have enjoyed local stone crabs. More boat projects are in store this afternoon, after church, and possibly a swim.

We plan to depart tomorrow (Monday) to start our way down the coast of Eleuthera and cross from the southern tip to Big Rock Cut outside Staniel Cay where we will pick up the first of our guests and cruise to Little Farmers Cay for the 5Fs. We will report on that later.