Whether it is a result of lower fuel prices, improving economy (hence more boaters), or the bad weather (continuing cold fronts and circling weather patterns with strong winds from “the wrong direction”), or all of the above, harbors have been packed on the West coast of Florida. Even the Fort Myers Beach mooring field was filled to the brim – the first we have heard of that.
After enjoying the sights and sounds of FMB, especially including the Edison/Ford residences and marveling at a profound friendship between two incredible men, we departed FMB at 7:00 am on Saturday February 7 and traveled all the way to Indian Key, on the edge of the Everglades. We had good winds from the NE running 10-15 knots, but increasing as the day wore on. When they became consistently over 15, we put a reef in the main and furled a bit of the jib to have an easier sail, yet maintain our speed (often 7.5 knots). As we passed Romano Shoal, south of Marco, we experienced declining winds and, because we needed to get into the Indian Key anchoring area before dark, we started the engine. Once we turned the corner to Indian, the wind was “on the nose” so we dropped all sails and motored the rest of the way in arriving at about 4:30, rigged the dinghy and took Taz to shore. She was very happy, despite the small island to the north that was packed with white pelicans, resulting in a strong fish odor.
After a run to shore at dawn, we hauled the dinghy and departed Indian Key at about 6:30 am on February 8 to head to Marathon. We again made good time, but did resort to motor sailing as the day wore on to make sure we got through the Seven Mile Bridge before dark. We checked with Boot Key Harbor City Marina for the availability of a mooring ball and were told “none available”. So, we and Living Well anchored outside the Marathon Harbor and spent a relatively calm night offshore. Taz had to make do with some high ground available only at low tide, but she managed.
The next morning, we dinghied into the City Marina to put our name on the list for a mooring. Mind you, the City Marina has 226 moorings and not one was available; literally, there was no room at the inn. In fact, we found ourselves number 29 on the waiting list, so it was obvious we would not have a mooring for some time. The kind folks at the Marina gave us some recommendations for anchorages. In view of the forecast deteriorating weather, and strong winds from the West/NW, we could not stay on the outside. We explored the various anchorages and decided to try Sister’s Creek. That is a pass from the inner harbor to the Atlantic Ocean side. It requires a Mediterranean Moor; i.e., drop the anchor and back in toward the mangroves to tie off and hold the boat in a fixed position. Sounds easy, and it can be (we did it in Boca Grande Bayou all by ourselves), but we entered with the winds from the south, the tide coming from the south, and, in reverse, the stern of the boat turning port (i.e. to the North). All three components made backing to the mangroves virtually impossible. Fortunately, Steve and Mary Ann had gone in ahead of us and managed, with more space – hence time – to get tied off. So, Steve came to the rescue again and took a line from Gratitude to a line he had tied to the mangroves and we winched Gratitude in and away from Living Well, which she was in danger of hitting. Over the next several hours, as the tides and winds shifted, we repositioned Gratitude using the four lines we had tied to the mangroves. Once we were settled, we were very pleased with the location. It is well protected, clean water, little traffic, and few lights. We are anchored about midway between Sombrero Beach, so Taz can go there for a morning run, and the City Marina, where we can use the shower, laundry, and dinghy dock facilities and access stores, restaurants, etc.
We are moving slo-o-owly up the waiting list, but may not get a mooring before it comes time to leave. In the meanwhile, we have enjoyed the wildlife – lots of shore birds – including dolphin and manatee, and time with friends, including a traditional “arrival dinner” of pizza with friends Steve and Mary Ann and Brian and Lynn from Midori (also from our boat yard).
While here, we will re-provision, defrost the freezer, dine out, and entertain or be entertained with friends. We enjoyed lunch yesterday with Bill R. who lives here on Marathon and who is a founding member of the LaTrappe Creek Historical and Ecological Society, the men’s sailing group of which Van is a member. It still is cool (for Florida) and even the locals are complaining of no fishing, no time on the beach, etc. No, it is not anywhere near the cold of Vermont, but then neither is it what we have enjoyed in past cruises in the southern Bahamas. I know, no pity!