FIRST LIGHT

Vessel Name: FIRST LIGHT
Vessel Make/Model: Hallberg-Rassy 352
Hailing Port: Port Ludlow, Washington
Crew: Harv, Jen & various friends
16 February 2015 | Riviera Beach Municipal Marina
10 February 2015 | Chub Cay Marina
07 February 2015 | 23 52.7N: 76 14.5W
03 February 2015 | Emerald Bay Marina
30 January 2015 | Back at Emerald Bay Marina
27 January 2015 | Emerald Bay Marina
22 January 2015 | San Salvador, Bahamas
21 January 2015 | San Salvador, Bahamas
16 January 2015 | Marsh Harbor Marina
14 January 2015 | Marsh Harbor Marina
10 January 2015 | Marsh Harbor Marina
06 January 2015 | Treasure Cay
02 January 2015 | Marsh Harbor Marina
30 December 2014 | Marsh Harbor Marina
27 December 2014 | Manjack Cay
24 December 2014 | Green Turtle Cay
22 December 2014 | Marsh Harbor Marina
19 December 2014 | Treasure Cay
17 December 2014 | 26 58.2N77 59.1W
14 December 2014 | Hinckley Boat Yard, Stuart Florida
Recent Blog Posts
16 February 2015 | Riviera Beach Municipal Marina

Close

We departed Chub Cay as the winds began to moderate and headed to the cut between Cat and Gun Cays in the Biminis. This necessitated transiting the Great Bahama Bank, which is a misnomer as it is mostly barely 2 meters deep, but the aqua color is truly amazing and the seas there so slight it gives one [...]

10 February 2015 | Chub Cay Marina

Finally

Though our little hurricane hole was lovely, and the winds still in the 20's we opted to slip out and cross the bank at high water to make for parts north. After zig-zagging across some shallows we popped the jib and were finally able to SAIL ... and with Hydie steering!! It was a gorgeous beam reach [...]

07 February 2015 | 23 52.7N: 76 14.5W

Companionship

(sent via ssb) With 275 miles to go we are slowly making our way north along the ruggedly disjointed Exuma chain of cays. First stop, Lee Stocking whose anchorage held an odd assortment of boats. We picked a spot and dropped our hook thinking everyone would swing together, but the currents are as wacky [...]

03 February 2015 | Emerald Bay Marina

Northward

Lee Stocking Cay, the once-upon-a-time research island, has slipped further into oblivion – it doesn’t take nature long to reclaim her own. The houses are empty or boarded up… save the one Rob and Lauren set up with couches, empty beer bottle and book “Lone Survivor”. The lab is bare of cabinetry; [...]

30 January 2015 | Back at Emerald Bay Marina

Rough Bits

The Trade Winds, those consistent northeasterly winds that have over the centuries shaped the mariner's existence in The Bahamas have failed. Settlements, harbors and marinas here are all geared for those consistent winds. This, when the winds get weird, makes finding a 'safe harbor' problematic. What [...]

27 January 2015 | Emerald Bay Marina

One in Every Bar

The past few days have seen bouncy seas, fluky winds and a lot of re-thinking of routes. The trip from San Salvador to Conception, one of the Bahamian National Parks, started with calm seas and light winds, but we put up the main anyway - for good measure - and motored along westerly. By mid-day the [...]

Companionship

07 February 2015 | 23 52.7N: 76 14.5W
jen&harv/diminishing winds, scattered clouds
(sent via ssb) With 275 miles to go we are slowly making our way north along the ruggedly disjointed Exuma chain of cays. First stop, Lee Stocking whose anchorage held an odd assortment of boats. We picked a spot and dropped our hook thinking everyone would swing together, but the currents are as wacky as the island. Soon we and our nearest neighbor were perpendicular to the prevailing wind and boats. When Annie and Tom (for so they were) returned Harv hailed them to come aboard for a drink. They are a delightful pair of aging "Foxfire" devotees on a 38' Caborico. We wiled away an hour or so, before they headed out to say hello to a newcomer they knew, Crazy Lady. The next morning, seeing us briefly get our outboard going before returning under oars, they yelled over, "Turn on your radio!" Soon we were dingying ashore with them to meet their boat-buddies, a loveable set of scavengers that included Crazy Lady's Ann, Joyce and Rick on the aptly named Outrageous (-ly funny) and a fascinating German couple on Bellatrix who had sailed rivers in Africa and South America. It was odd to have them so overtly taking things, but I couldn't in good conscience say anything. I'd taken what I needed.

On our way back Annie invited us all for evening noshes to celebrate catching her first-ever fish. Tom offered some carb cleaner, as a last resort, and so commenced our fourth dismantling of the damned outboard. This time Harv noted two slotted bronze ports that, upon closer inspection, yielded screws with even tinier athwartship ports into which I inserted a single strand of clean wire and then placed them in the cleaner for a bit. When all was buttoned up it came happily to life. I've decided we need to keep this engine. I know it in the biblical sense, that's got to have some value.

It was a companionable evening, all of us tucked into Annie and Tom's cockpit, passing dishes, raising glasses. We stayed until after dark, but with another big blow expected we could not stay for a second party scheduled for the next night. In the morning we motor-sailed up to the "hurricane hole" pond on Rudder Cut Cay. Perhaps fearful of the narrow entrance or the prominent "NO TRESSPASSING" sign, most people pass by this tiny protected pocket bay, but the controlling depth is 2 meters and the bay large enough for a couple of boats with good holding. Once in, it opens to a near perfect circle; at the south end there is evidence that this was once a loved place. A small house with half a roof sits tucked amid the scrub. Metal pipes of various heights mark a channel to its "drive way". A well cleared road beacons with a sweeping rise that crests the hillock just behind the house. There are huge cacti, and pretty swaths of beach. To the north, the hillocks lower to give a brief glimpse of crashing spray accompanied by the roar of surf. There are several, more wary considerations: A large navy tender lies disheveled well up the northern shore; several enormous chunks of foam are hidden under the greenery like forgotten Christmas presents; a semi-submerged barge, rusted to near oblivion, hides in the southeast corner; and two huge white bollards can be seen at strategic locations just above the high tide line? one wonders what tales they could tell.

By mid-afternoon we had a companion - another 37' Caborico. What are the odds?! As we motored around trying to gain faith in our outboard the owner of Second Wind invited us aboard for a cold beer. Dave is a happy, courteous, talkative single-hander (for the time being) who had been here many times, "and you're the first boat I've seen inside!" He is bronzed and slight with a massive leg injury from a competitive skiing accident, its recovering from its 6th operation and he is grateful to still have it after a staph infection in the bone. When he heard our intention to walk the road to see the other shore his head tilted and he asked cautiously, "Have you seen the dog yet?" He pointed out a very large, rather well-fed Shepard mix standing quietly on the shore, observing us? walks have been postponed, possibly indefinitely.

The next morning Dave suggested he take us over to the "sunken piano". It is a grand piano and mermaid sculpture commissioned by magician David Copperfield and placed in an obscure location just northwest of Rudder Cut; Dave had its position saved on GPS. It was amazing, surrounded by swath of pale sand with yellow tangs and colorful wrasses meandering in and out - very serene and beautiful. As the wind picked up we headed back to First Light, and after we'd climbed out we noticed his dingy prop had picked up an old, weed-covered 1" line. "Damn," he sighed, "it's that floating line." It seems some former island-owner had installed a mooring in the very center of the bay and this was it. As he freed it from his prop all I could think was THANK heavens we hadn't snagged it when we'd maneuvered for anchoring ? it was directly astern of us, nearly touching Hydie's rudder! I decided - as a Good Samaritan gesture - to sacrifice a small fender to mark it.

Since then the wind has absolutely howled out of the north ? and we have stayed put. We had Dave to dinner to break the tedium, but being stuck in this bay - with all its secrets - has been a godsend! Even with the wicked winds the boat has hardly any motion, only a slight yawing on our anchor. The cat, however, has had motion aplenty. She races from bow to stern, then back again, up to the boom, down on the dodger, back up to the bow where she'll stand ominously on the portlight and glare at the dog. Yes, he's still here. There are other houses on this cay, and an airstrip, but he's found us worthy of unflagging consideration. Usually he sits placidly; he will rise now and then to a downward-facing-dog yoga move, then look our way and wag his tail? then he'll sit and watch again. Perhaps he'd like to befriend Ms. B ? I'm not sure the feeling of companionship is reciprocated.
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