Adventures of Hiatus

08 June 2009
31 May 2009 | Portland, OR
14 May 2009 | Seabrook, Texas
13 May 2009
12 May 2009 | Texas
11 May 2009 | Gulf of Mexico
10 May 2009 | Gulf of Mexico
08 May 2009 | Gulf of Mexico
07 May 2009 | Mexico
01 May 2009 | Mexico
27 April 2009 | Belize
22 April 2009 | Lighthouse Reef, Belize
21 April 2009 | Lighthouse Reef, Belize
17 April 2009 | Cay Caulker
08 April 2009 | Belize
29 March 2009 | Lighthouse Reef, Belize
27 March 2009 | Honduras
16 March 2009 | Honduras
09 March 2009 | La Ceiba, Roatan
04 March 2009 | Roatan, Honduras

Hiatus Wrap Up

08 June 2009
Heather and Kent
We came up with a few bullet points from our trip to wrap up the Hiatus blog. Enjoy!

• Number of churches Kent had walked into and didn't combust: we stopped counting after Mexico where we visited at least 20 churches and Kent had still survived.
• Guest with the most hours spent on Hiatus: Glenn Belshaw - El Salvador to Ecuador, Panama Canal to San Blas Islands, Mexico to Texas.
• Countries visited: Canada, US, Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Honduras, Costa Rica , Panama, Ecuador, Peru, Belize, and Colombia.
• Miles logged: over 8,000
• Number of times boarded unexpectedly by the Navy: 6 (1 time in Canada, 1 time in the US, 4 times in Mexico)
• Most expensive item lost overboard: pair of $100 sunglasses - two different pairs.
• Best fishing: Baja Coast, Mexico. Had to pull in the lines after the freezer was packed to the top with yellow fin tuna and mahi mahi.
• Average number of books read: 104 for Kent (based on 1 book per week), way less for Heather.
• Most unusual item purchased: bull scrotum in Zihautenejo, Mexico. They make them into baskets that hold pens and other office supplies.
• Number of electronics that couldn't stand up to 2 years of use in a sailboat: 2 hard drives, 1 GPS, 1 laptop, 1 AIS receiver.
• Best place for a local lunch: Ecuador at $1.50US for a large bowl of soup, beef/chicken/fish, beans, rice, small salad and a big glass of fresh juice.
• Nicest hotel room for $15US a night: Galapagos.
• Best deal on Tangaray gin: Copan Ruins city, Honduras at under $10US a bottle.
• Most frightening moment traveling inland: Bus ride from Quito to Guayaquil in Ecuador. It was 10 hours of single lane winding roads through the Andes as speeds exceeding 50 mph.
• Best trade: $5US for 2 ginormous fresh lobsters delivered to our boat in the Sea of Cortez.
• Best snorkeling: Cayos Cochinos, Honduras. It is a small group of islands between mainland Honduras and Roatan.
• Best diving: Roatan, Honduras. Yes, we thought it was better than Belize.
• Best country for ice cream: Panama. Think we just got lucky and found an outstanding gelato place.
• Favorite city: Cartagena, Colombia. Walled city, forts and some wonderful architecture made this our favorite.
• Best place to see wildlife up close and personal: Galapagos Islands.
• Items we learned are sold in all grocery stores in each country we visited: Pringles chips and Coca Cola.
• Food items that were almost impossible to find outside the US: chocolate chips and beef jerky.
• Favorite ruins: Kent: Copan ruins in Honduras. Heather: Tikal in Guatemala. Machu Picchu was amazing and a class of it's own.
• Favorite place to anchor: San Blas Islands, Panama. Small palm tree covered islands, Kuna Indians, the remoteness and the clear waters made this a place we could have spent months exploring.
• Cannot cruise without items - Kent: internet antenna to access all those unsecure networks out there, Heather: ipod to make it through the night watches. For Hiatus: a Rocna anchor to keep us secure in the nastiest of storms and an AIS receiver so we have the details of surrounding commercial traffic (name, speed, closest point of approach, length etc).
• Worst cruising moment - Kent: violent food poisoning in Mexico, and from a really nice restaurant not the local street meat. Heather: Being bit by a very scary dog in Honduras while on a run.
• Best cruising moment: Anytime we were not working on maintaining or repairing the boat. We had heard that the definition of cruising was "working on your boat in exotic locations" and can now attest to the truth of that definition.
• Most frustrating inland traveling moment: Traveling 10 hours on a red eye midnight chicken bus to Tikal in Guatemala. We decided a plane ride was in order for the return, regardless of the cost.
• Worst boat project completed: cleaning out the hoses that run to/from the head and holding tank.
• Number of blog posts: 67 (give or take a few)
• Most unusual local food we came across: Guinea pigs (Ecuador).
• Number of books aboard that were supposed to teach us Spanish: 4. Number of weeks in Spanish classes: 4. Amount of Spanish we have retained: 4%.
• Most comical moment: A small town in Mexico where we attended a full blown Mexican wrestling event. Kent and another cruiser bought wrestling masks and jumped in the ring prior to the real event and showed off their WWF moves. It was quite impressive and had both cruisers and locals cheering as they body slammed each other!
• Visitors from home that came aboard Hiatus: Brittany and Mike (Oregon), Bob, Doug (Kent's dad) and Paul (Oregon to Washington), Laura (Heather's sister) (Washington), Charles (Oregon to California), Brittany and Mike (Los Angeles to Catalina Island), Kelly and Oscar (Catalina Island, CA), Dane, Stephanie and Dave (San Diego to Cabo San Lucas), Sandy and Doug (Kent's parents) (Puerto Vallarta, MX), Brittany and Mike (Barra de Navidad, MX), Laura (Heather's sister) and Justin (Barra de Navidad, MX), Charles, Jenny and Ryan (Ixtapa & Ztown), Glenn (Nicaragua to Ecuador), Bob and Glenn (Panama Canal to San Blas, Panama), Lara, Joe and Cobin (San Blas, Panama to Cartagena, Columbia), Dane and Steph (Honduras), Glenn (Mexico to Texas, USA).
Inland travels with: Kerry, Amy and Wyatt (Peru) and
Charles, Jenny and Ryan (Ecuador).
• Best exchange: 2000:1 in Columbia. We were millionaires every time we saw our ATM bank statement receipt with the balance in pesos.
• Most unusual item found aboard Hiatus: A gecko.
• Best sail: 4 days from Ecuador to Panama - all sails, no motor.
• Number of seasick experiences: Kent: 0. Heather: lost count.
• Number of people we have met who have shaped our cruising experiences and lives for the better: countless.

Thank you to our families and friends for supporting our adventures, to those fellow cruisers we crossed paths with and to those who followed our blog.

"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bow lines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover" - Mark Twain

Back in Portland

31 May 2009 | Portland, OR
Heather
Hiatus is still in Texas for sale but we are now home in Portland, OR. In just a few days we found hurricane insurance for the boat, bought a used car (Subaru wagon), packed everything we owned into it and headed for the Pacific Northwest. With over 2,000 miles to drive we stopped to enjoy the company of friends in Texas, Colorado Spring and Denver.

We are now in the process of moving back into our house, Kent is drumming up business again as a real estate broker www.kentsisk.com and I am searching for a job. We are grateful to our renters who took great care of our house and yard and we will reunite with our dog this week, who has been living it up at friends house these last 2 years.

Portland is unseasonably warm right now so the weather feels like it did when we were on the boat, but life is certainly different - as Kent says, he misses jumping off his house(ie Hiatus) and into the water.

We will post a few cruising recap emails shortly.

Back in the USA!

14 May 2009 | Seabrook, Texas
Heather
As Kent mentioned in his position reports, we had great wind our first day out of Isla Mujeres, Mexico. Unfortunately it shut off and we motored the other four days of our trip. The passage was quite uneventful but it was still very nice to have crew so that everyone got 6 hours of sleep each night (or at least in theory could try to get 6 hours sleep each night). Coming into Texas is a bit crazy, there are hundreds of oil rigs offshore to avoid and lots of shipping traffic - we love our AIS receiver and radar which help us locate where everything is and where it may be going!

We arrived in Galveston Tuesday afternoon but by the time we got checked in with US Customs we would not have enough daylight to make it to Seabrook so we stayed the night, had a fantastic dinner out and a great night sleep. Wednesday morning Joe jumped aboard and we headed to our dock spot at Seabrook Marina. Joe is the previous owner of Hiatus (well, it was Crimson Tide when he had the boat) and exudes that famous southern hospitality. It was great to have him aboard and share the short trip to Seabrook with him. We pulled into the same dock we first saw the boat at in December 2006, talk about coming full circle and back to where we started!

The next few days will be filled with the local boat show we are a part of with our broker, finding a car to buy and getting back in the swing of things - activating cell phones again, job hunting, etc.
We noticed that most of the areas we have seen here have rebounded quite quickly from last year's Hurricane Ike. It is amazing though that the streets we were standing in where covered with over 10 feet of water at one time. It should be said that not everyone has been fortunate to recover so quickly and there are constant reminders of the power a hurricane can inflict on homes, buildings, streets and the landscape.

By the way, it is over 90F during the day here and we are really looking forward to summer in Portland.

Picture is of the biggest flying fish we found on our boat. Usually they are just small ones that land on the deck.

Glenn's Guest Blog

13 May 2009
Glenn Belshaw
The final leg of SV Hiatus two year voyage was an uneventful 600+ mile, 4+ day passage for Cancun to Galveston Island, Texas. Before departing Cancun I had hoped to visit some of the Mayan Pyramids but, fear of the next world pandemic had closed the sites to tourist. We were able to leave Cancun before the World Health Organization had a chance to close Mexico because of Swine Flu fear. If you've had thoughts of cruising in the Gulf of Mexico keep this in mind, there's nothing there but Oil Rigs and Freighters, we saw one sailboat during the trip. Once in Galveston we saw the results of Hurricane Ike which hit the Galveston, Houston area last Fall. Talking to the locals it had a very devastating effect on the low lying areas; the entire area is low lying. The high light of the trip was a ride on a wooden roller coaster, it seems, our Skipper (Kent) has no interest in riding things that move quickly and make shape turns. I guess that's why he's such a good sailor.

I'd like to congratulate Kent and Heather on completing a trip most people only allow themselves to dream about and to thank them for inviting me along to share parts of their adventure.

-----------------------

Thank you Glenn for joining us along the way in our adventures! We appreciate your willingness to do night watches, help in some repairs and of course offer us your seasoned sailing advice. Our passages from Nicaragua to Ecuador, through the Panama Canal to San Blas and from Mexico to Texas were a lot more fun with you aboard! When you have s/v Medicine Man ready for cruising know we will be there to return favors. :-> -K&H
Vessel Name: Hiatus
Vessel Make/Model: CT-47
Hailing Port: Portland, OR USA
Crew: Heather and Kent Sisk
About: Email: sisk@svhiatus.com Skype: svhiatus
Extra: "Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bow lines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover" Mark Twain
Hiatus's Photos - Belize
Photos 1 to 58 of 58 | Adventures of Hiatus (Main)
1
Kent and Heather snorkeling out at Half Moon Cay.
Kent and Heather diving out at Half Moon Cay.
Squirrel fish.
There were a few turtle sightings; this one was curious and got pretty close.
Some sort of long needle fish.
Dinner or lobster, depends on how you want to look at it.
Eagle ray.
Nurse shark.
Snorkeling at Half Moon Cay – Bluehead reef fish.
View of Half Moon Cay on approach.
Half Moon Cay – Kent on the trail to the rookery to see boobies, red footed ones that is.
Half Moon Cay – Red footed booby bird.
Half Moon Cay – Red footed booby bird showing off its red feet.
Half Moon Cay – Heather has a domesticated juvenile red footed booby perch on her arm.
Baby Booby – Small domesticated baby red footed booby bird. This guy or girl was found abandoned and taken in by the lighthouse caretaker and park ranger on Half Moon Cay.
Half Moon Cay – Iguana hanging out on a tree branch for a meal of baby red footed booby bird.
Half Moon Cay – Red footed booby and frigate colony.
 Half Moon Cay – After regretting not getting an ‘I Love Boobies’ t-shirt in the Galapagos (where there are blue footed boobies), Kent hoped to find an equally cheesy shirt on Half Moon Cay but was disappointed to find out that while there was a sign there was no gift shop.
Half Moon Cay – Lighthouse, caretakers house and park rangers house. Not sure who lives in the house that is missing its stilts. These are the only structures on the island.
Lighthouse at Half Moon Cay – Remains of the lighthouse.
Coconut Gathering on Half Moon Cay. Kent successfully shimmied up the trunk of a tree to gather coconuts (proving that he is not an old man yet).
Coconut Gathering – Half Moon Cay is a park but they actually encourage you to take coconuts with you.  Six gringos can successfully gather quite a few but with little grace. Here Kent and Dave play male cheerleaders and hoist Kathy up to hack down the ones within her reach, Heather adds little help by holding a palm out. Surprisingly nobody was hurt by falling coconuts.
We got devoured so badly the first day at Lighthouse Reef that Kent would only set foot back on the island wearing fleece pants, a long sleeve shirt, work gloves and his Mexican wrestling mask to keep as much of him from being bit as possible. Mind you it is 85F outside. Using bug spray was useless so the rest of us made do with long sleeve shirts and pants and suffered from bites on the face, neck and hands.
Close up of Heather.
Lots of cool swim throughs at Half Moon Cay.
Cleaner shrimp hanging out.
Nice looking grouper. Yumm.
Heather hanging out at her safety stop before returning to the dive boat.
Lots of little reef fish to watch when snorkeling and diving.
Bonfire at Lighthouse Reef – The boys (Dave, Andreas and Kent) put their man-skills to work and created a massive bonfire from dried palms on the beach one night for their lovely ladies.
Lighthouse Reef – Kent walking along the shore towards Huracan Diving.
Huracan Diving – We dove with Huracan Diving on Lighthouse Reef and would recommend them. Besides the dive operation they have a small 3 room B&B for guests. Outside their building a coconut was sprouting.
Approaching the anchorage at Lighthouse Reef. Truly a remote and relaxing place.
Kent fishing near Lighthouse Reef. Unfortunately the only thing that was biting was barracuda and we threw them all back. The barracuda before this one was munched in half by a shark while Kent was reeling it in.
Half Moon Cay – Just an example of some of the signs that really should not have to be made and hung.
Half Moon Cay – Heather standing on a palm that decided to grow horizontal to the ground before turning to grown straight up.
Half Moon Cay – Hermit crab - they are the size of baseballs!
Half Moon Cay – Hermit crab in hiding.
Conch collection - The boys (Dave, Andreas and Kent) collected conch (pronounced “conk”) one day, diving down to about 20ft and bringing back the conch to the boat for the girls to measure. We threw back the smaller conch but enjoyed the meat of the larger ones for dinner one night.
Conch – Part 4. Ugly isn’t it? Pretty much the small white part is the only edible part. It needs to be cut out and then tenderize/beat before cooking. But prepared with a little butter and garlic it is really worth the work.
Conch – Part 3. Having removed the grip of the conch to its shell the conch now begins to emit a nasty looking slime. You can now pull the conch by its foot.
Conch – Part 2. Insert butter knife into slit to cut the tendon of the critter from the shell. Conch can not be pulled out from the mouth of the shell, they are way too strong.
Conch – Part 1. After collecting from sandy bottom, take claw of hammer and puncture shell (in just the right spot).
The Blue Hole – It is much more scenic to see an aerial picture of this special place but when in Belize it seems like you have to come here to dive this formation which once was a cave above water. It is only 1,000 feet across but very deep, and filled with stalactites. Kent did 2 dives here, both to 150 feet and while it lacks the coral and fish life he felt it was a unique and special dive.
The Blue Hole – Kent suited up and ready to jump into the Blue Hole!
Kent and Heather at the Blue Hole.
Cay Caulker – One of the 2 main sandy streets in town.
Cay Caulker – tour boat sits at The Split – the area where Hurricane Hattie ripped through Cay Caulker making one island into two.
Cay Caulker – The Split filled with locals on Easter weekend. Usually there are only a dozen or so tourists in the water here.
Belize – On our way to Cay Caulker which involved going through some really shallow splits. Here we are waiting for a tug and catamaran to go through in the opposite direction before we go. The water is really shallow, like 7 feet! This means we had less than a foot under our keel! Our journey to Cay Caulker was a bit stressful  since for 5 of the 6 hours we were in water that was less than 10 feet deep.
Belize – On our way to Belize with absolutely no wind! You can make out the small Cay on the horizon, Belize is full of hundreds of them and surrounding all of them are shallow waters and reefs. Pretty as they are to look at they are hazards to sailboats.
Cay Caulker - Birds on one of the many piers near town.
Cay Caulker - Lobster pots. These pots get lined up in front of every house and public beach spot. There have to be 1,000s on the tiny island.
Cay Caulker - Weather station.
Cay Caulker - Golf carts (ie taxis) lining up to greet people as they get off the ferry from Belize City.
Cay Caulker - Street scene.
Cay Caulker - Colorful house.
Cay Caulker - View of the reef a half mile out.
 
1
"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bow lines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover" Mark Twain