HOW TO CRUISE THE GALAPAGOS:
Regulations appear to change here constantly and we found it very difficult to know what to do, so below are my recommendations for cruisers. This is only my opinion, but hopefully this helps others better enjoy these islands.

METHODS OF ENTRY:
At the moment there are three options for cruisers who wish to stay here:
1) 20 Day Agent Stay on 1 Island: Arriving and working with an agent to secure a 20 day stay from the Port Captain, which is what I would recommend to all cruisers. This allows you to stay in the port of your arrival (San Cristobal or Santa Cruz) and possibly a stay over in Isabella when you depart. It is also the cheapest option, which agency fees of around $150 (depending on the agent you use). If you arrive in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz, you really don't need to take your boat anywhere else to see the top sights in the Galapagos (see below).
2) 40 Day Autorgrapho Stay for 5 Islands: Applying a few weeks in advance (preferably two months) for an Autographo, which allows you a longer stay of up to 40 days and the permission to change ports. You can visit up to 5 islands with this permit, but the agency fees increase and only agents with good connections can guarantee this permit. We paid an agent $300 for this service, allowing us to visit San Cristobal, Santa Cruz, Baltra, Isabella and possibly one more island.
3) Total Freedom to Cruise Permit: Applying for a special Autographo and hiring a park ranger to come aboard to allow you to visit any of the islands and go as you please. Costs for this privilege is reported to be $200 per person per day. Yikes.

RECOMMENDATIONS:
We applied for the Autographo, which in hindsight I would not do again for two reasons. One, it was $150 to $350 more expensive than simply arriving and using a local agent. And two, the islands that are included in the Autographo are really not worth seeing. Baltra is just the airport island and San Cristobal doesn't offer anything different than Santa Cruz island. Being "stuck" in Puerto Ayora is absolutely fine as you will need to hire taxi drivers or tour agencies to see any of the sights worth seeing, which usually depart from Puerto Ayora anyway. DO NOT feel like you need to pay more for a permit allowing you to visit other islands that offer nothing new to see.

If you are coming to the Galapagos and a 20 day stay is more than you need, I would strongly recommend sailing directly to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz island and working with the GOS Yacht Agency in Puerto Ayora. They can also secure you a stay in Isabella, worth visiting. GOS charge fair prices (around $150 agency fee for a boat around 40 feet) and were recommended in the Feb issue of Cruising World. Peter is the owner and speaks some English, but Tomo is Finish and speaks perfect English. They would prefer that you get in touch with them in advance on their excellent website at www.GOS.ec or on VHF channel 74 when you arrive.

SERVICES:
Services on the islands are limited. There is no marina anywhere and you will need jerry cans to get water and diesel. GOS Yacht Agency is helping us with our diesel needs, which requires a letter from the Port Captain permitting you to purchase diesel at the local gas station at tourist prices. Diesel for locals is $1 a gallon, but for tourist it is currently $2.05. GOS then charges a fee for picking up your cans from your boat, filling them and returning them. We are paying them $50 for the delivery of 110 gallons of diesel. GOS also has a laundry room and showers. Their floating dock for dingys should be installed this week. To get to town from your boat, use a Water Taxi (VHF Ch 14), which charges $0.60/person/trip during the day and $1/p/t at night. There is no other place than GOS to leave your dingy. Food we found readily available in the grocery store or at the Mercado Municipal or at the bakery. You can get your basics there, including veggies, chicken, milk, etc. The fish market sells fresh fish daily. There are also two yacht stores, which have a limited and expensive selection of boat electronics and boat repair items. It's still worth doing major provisioning in Panama City or Ecuador before arriving.

Any questions, email me and I will get back to you when we find internet access again!